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bub2006

Peugeot 406 2.1 TD £2.50 a ticket or offers

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Bub has put a good few miles on the car and I guess it would show some shortcomings. I only took it to Essex and back and the exhaust shat itself. Hasty repair made.

 

Good to methodically work your way through the issues as you have been doing. I always thought it drove okay but I think I am just shit at recognising when things are not quite right. Mind you I was distracted by the 'will my exhaust make it home' fear.

 

Good work thus far mate. You will sort it. 

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Help and advice please. I've fitted new leads and nothing changed. Still hunts at idle and cuts out at every junction or set of lights. I've tried adjust mixture one way then the other and no joy. Tried pulling choke out and no joy. Even turned tick over up and it's still there. Also if I go to kickdown then lift off from high revs and go back to high revs you can physically feel it pulling back and losing power.

Oooh, that could be timing. For a free check, mark the dizzy with some tippex and rotate it a few degrees forward and see if that helps at all. If not, put it back to where it was and at least that will eliminate that issue.

 

My R5 was a sod after a professional tune up. Hard to start and when you revved it up it stuttered and took a few seconds to build up momentum, as if the engine was holding back. A few degrees of advance and the engine was sweet again. Worth a go anyway, it's a five minute job

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Towbar is of interest if I haven't set fire to the bastard thing. Carb been set up again and it's still lumpy and stalling at junctions. Hot starting is also a pain. Not good bedfellows for an automatic

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Time to bugger about with it when it's hot then.  Pull the vacuum advance off of the distributor and plug the end to the carb.  Find the mixture screw on the carb: screw it in clockwise half-turn by half-turn - noting how many it takes so you can go back - until it starts to "hunt", i.e., go a bit lumpy - if the set-up's conventional, this should mean the engine is now running lean on idle.  Use the idle screw to raise the revs so it stops hunting - again noting the turns.

Back them both off until it runs lovely - then try it on the road.  If it's fine, re-attach the vacuum advance.  If this buggers it up again, retard the ignition.

 

Just make sure you can return EVERYTHING to how it was before you started buggering about with it...!

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Buggering about completed. I now have a car that starts with a whiff of throttle when warm, pulls cleanly, doesn't hunt nor stalls out. Also yet another thanks to dcd 1979 for his help again today. Making up the vac restrictor and the carb assistance

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So, do you want to translate what the fix was into actual English? :-D

The hunting couldn't be adjusted as the vac hose to carb had a restrictor in it didn't know of. I made 1 up which stopped the hunting but it still wasn't right. Now it is OK after twatting it and swearing.

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Nope. It stuck 2 fingers up at me and whistled dixie today. Developing a George best thirst for coolant too. Expected it with the svreenwash as the bottle leaked but this is a new 1!

Does anyone have a gunson colour tune I can borrow? Last seen mine 4 years ago in the boot of my reliant Robin.

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Volvo 300s always seem to slowly lose coolant for some reason.

Both my 340 and my 360 have always done it, with no obvious cause.

Same with FOAD's ones too.

 

The idle solenoids on the carbs can give trouble. If you haven't looked at this, this is where I would look next.

 

Timing is also not adjustable on these, the advance is pre-programmed into a EPROM within the Renix unit, so this won't be giving you the issues. In general, the Renix units are very, very reliable. I've not had an issue with one or heard of one before.

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Hmm. I think rebuild kits are still available for the Weber 32 DIR carb you have. This may include a new mixture screw?

 

It is a bit odd that they're reliable, and French. But with the electronics encapsulated in a weird adhesive, it's a pretty robust design. This does mean that it's impossible to modify them in any way though.

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All being well in the next couple of days the bits should arrive. Then I am hoping the idle and stalling will be sorted. I've got a Weber download for strip and rebuild and common issues which mentions modify a gasket to stop the vapour issues when warm which I am also going to do. If it behaves then it's the not so major issues like bodywork and towbar sorting.

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