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bub2006

Peugeot 406 2.1 TD £2.50 a ticket or offers

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Yesterday evening the volvo was tinkered with some more by my friendly mechanic. Ive got it in my head that i want it tip top,my friend whobis a mobile mechanic also loves working on older cars too. We was having a chat about how it was driving after the belts were done and i said i wanted the clutch checked too. Up on the ramps it went. I read the haynes manual and also the volvo oc data and found the gap between the clutch lining and pressure pllate should be ideally between 0.4mm and 1.0mm. Mine was 1.2mm so if a shim was removedfrom each of the adjustment points it would bring it to 0.7mm. Now drives even better. Doesnt seem as if the clutch is slipping in a manual car either to pull off. Never drive one before and cant remember what my grandads sounded like so it was worth the checks. Looks like low hold has failed again though so multimeter is coming out and the tachometric relay is being checked.

It gives me a little feeling of joy having a car i can actually do little bits to to make right. Takes my mind off other tgings too. By time the volvo is perfect i may have to start looking for a little old project as this seems to be a very good way of therapy

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With chase racers help ive found the tachometric relay has some dry solder joints. Easy job to do. Sadly i cant remember where my soldering irons are! Just a quick one for anyone who has driven these,do they all sqyeak when pulling away? Definitely is the bekts and its done it since ive had it.

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The belts surprisingly are fine and within tension with no cracks or damage. They was slightly worse before they were tensioned. Mine dont squeal, they did first thing or on hill starts but dont anymore. Its more of a rubbing noise which as far as i know is normal?!

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I've only ever owned slightly dodge Daf's really, rubbing noise present on most of them, never thought any more about it tbh. 

 

The two Volvo 66s that I had in the 1980s/90s made a characteristic suppressed howling noise, as have most of the belt driven DAFs and Volvos that I've been close enough to hear.  The 66s had a cooling duct which ran from the front of the car to the transmission to keep the pulleys cool.  In order to convey the power* the expanding/contracting V pulleys put a considerable side load on to the belts.  The consequental friction releases a lot of heat and causes a fair bit of noise. 

 

If all of the components look ok and are set up properly then I agree it's nothing to worry about  :-D .

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Right the carb issue has come back again tonight. Help! How can i keep the carb a bit cooler?

 

Drill a hole in the bumper.

Don't know if it would be viable, but some carbed cars had a return fuel line which I've always assumed was to circulate some fuel back to the tank taking some heat with it. If you're having vaporisation problems at this brass monkeys bollocks time of year I reckon come summer you could fit your float chamber with a whistle off a kettle. What about a computer fan? 

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Fuel vaporisation and vapour-lock problems are quite common in older cars equipped with carburettors.  Ethanol loaded fuel does not help as it gases off more readily than 'straight' petrol.  Assuming that your fuel feed is ok i.e. pump pumping, filter not blocked, carb internals clean and fuel cap vent hole clear, there are various things you can try and some may make the car more drivable e.g. Make sure the ignition timing is spot-on (if it's 'out' the engine may be running hotter); If the carb sits on a thermal insulation spacer, make sure the spacer is clean, not oil soaked; See if any additional shielding could be used to prevent the carb receiving too much radiated heat from nearby hot components; Ensure engine bay ventilation is as designed i.e. not impeded by sagging sound insulation, leaves or whatever; Consider wrapping the exhaust manififold and downpipe with a proprietary insulation binding/tape to reduce engine bay temperature.  If your fuel pump is in the engine bay rather than in or near the tank, the pump will be drawing fuel by suction.  This exacerbates fuel vaporisation problems in a warm engine bay.  An electric pump near the tank which pushes fuel to the engine usually overcomes that problem.  If you go that route, make sure the pump pressure is suitable for a carb i.e. around 3-5psi.

 

Good luck!  My 1961 Reliant Regal is prone to vapour locking and I've tried everything except exhaust wrapping and have yet to fit the electric pump I bought 6 years ago.  Fortunately, it's not my daily driver.    

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Its got the mechanical pump still. Now my robin had a pump fitted to the rear chassis with a cut off switch in the car. I dont recall any issues like this with that either now you mention it. I will get the timing checked and i plan to clean the carb too when weather is better. Ill save up for a fuel pump i think and go from there. I have replaced the inline fuel filter too.

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Well tonight went well. Exhaust come away from centre silencer. Sounds like a tank. Also I may have found why she runs a bit lumpy when warm. Valve stem seals are leaking. When warm starting it puffs blue smoke which clears up. I'm wondering if this is affecting the running if plugs are getting choked?

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