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bub2006

Peugeot 406 2.1 TD £2.50 a ticket or offers

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Just throwing these in because easy to check: In my experience, valve stem seal leakage has to be quite severe to mess up the actual running of the engine i.e. bad enough to show up as oil usage on the dipstick after, say, 500 miles.  Slight Trabant exhaust characteristics at start-up are not usually anything to get too excited about as long as it looks ok in normal running. If the plugs are getting a bit oily then hotter grade plugs can ease that problem for a while. It is also worth checking that the rocker box breather is ok.  If it has pipework, ensure that it is in good shape (not cracked or kinked) and connected as Volvo/DAF intended (usually feeds in to the air cleaner or sometimes in to the inlet manifold).  Some breather pipes contain a choke (orifice) which gets bunged up.  This can affect idling and throttle response if the pipework forms an essential part of the carb mixture control. A blocked breather orifice or a leaking pipe can stop the car from idling. I think someone mentioned checking the carb choke lever to ensure that it is operating correctly, particularly when the engine has warmed up.  Having residual choke when none is required can make an engine feel hesitant and reluctant to idle.

 

You are approaching these relatively minor problems in the right way.  Avoid the temptation to fiddle with lots of bits in one go.  Just check one item at a time (or set e.g. plugs or leads), fix, clean, adjust or replace if found wanting, then test to see if the problem is cured, unaffected or worse.  Remind me to adopt this policy next time I have the bonnet open.  It's all to easy to tamper with ignition, carb, and plumbing whilst you have the spanners out, only to discover that you've somehow made things worse.....but which bit of attention caused it?

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Owning reliant myself I know don't mess with to much. I'm methodically going through what I know is wrong first. Car runs fine when cold or hot through rev range so that bought me away from the carb for now. Mind you the gunson colour tune I had for my Robin was brilliant can't find it now though! It smells oily when warm starting and it puffs a bit of blue for 10 seconds. It doesn't use a massive amount on the dipstick though but it's an issue that needs rectifying so gets done first. When I can afford to though I'm going to give it a damn good service. Rotor arm and cap,leads etc. Pipework seems fine but I have a slightly worn one from the emv vac line to the carb. Seems to pull off a little too easy. That also will be changed.

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The economical repairs work. Sadly the front pipe is worse than we thought and hasn't taken a liking to being played with. Oh and the air filter to carb bolts won't tighten. Further investigation revealed stripped threads and previous helicoils that haven't been inserted properly. My friendly man in the know is going to look into that. Awaiting a breaker in the high peak getting back to me about his breaker 340.

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Guest Hooli

Excellent! That should mean the thread in the body is fine so a new one will just wind in.

 

I tend to use a smear of bearing fit on them when I put them in & leave it to dry before building the part up.

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Does anyone have a set of plug leads adorning their garage wall I may have for beer tokens? Developed a really rough tick over and a plug lead gave me a right wallop last night. Sadly I can't afford a new set at 30 quid so I'm being kind of hopeful I may get some cheaper!

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What type of ends are on them and what lengths are they?

 

I've got a couple of random sets floating around (no idea what off originally) which have been sitting around as serviceable spares.  If they're suitable I'd happily send them your way for cost of postage only.

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To be honest if you drop me a PM I can have a dig about in the garage at the weekend and shuffle a few assorted leads your way. They'll only wind up getting binned here during a tidy up at some point otherwise.

 

Sounds like yours will be pretty short so they'll probably be longer than strictly necessary, but should do the job.

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They are quite long but don't need to be. The issue is that it runs lumpy at idle and it came on quickly. Also it revs freely at standstill but under load it feels as if it's holding back. More so if I give it kickdown while driving. I've adjusted mixture one with and the other and back to where it was originally and made no difference. Also raising tickover just make no difference until it's higher up the revs. Also does smell of unburnt fuel. All pointing to dying leads. Especially considering it didn't half twat me one last night

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Yeah, if they're degraded to the point that you can get a belt off them, they're definitely past their best.  You may well find that if you open the bonnet with the engine running in the dark that you can actually see evidence of arcing from the leads to adjacent metalwork etc - the electricity your plugs need literally "leaking away."

 

Leads I've got here were all working just fine when removed, they were just replaced on age grounds generally.  The set that came from the Lada are actually pretty new, but were rendered redundant when I put the injection kit on because the coil pack on that has different connectors on to the distributor cap.

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Help and advice please. I've fitted new leads and nothing changed. Still hunts at idle and cuts out at every junction or set of lights. I've tried adjust mixture one way then the other and no joy. Tried pulling choke out and no joy. Even turned tick over up and it's still there. Also if I go to kickdown then lift off from high revs and go back to high revs you can physically feel it pulling back and losing power.

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A scoosh of carb cleaner won’t hurt- could easily be dirty jets or whatnot. Taking them out and cleaning them would be even better.

 

When running, scoosh wd40 all over the place to see if you can detect a change in engine note- if so there’s an air leak. Check all gaskets, bolts etc.

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