Dead Volvo 940 advice needed

[Dippy]

Having run pre 80s cars for the last 4 years I have never had a problem with my cars that didnt take 5 minutes to fix and get me back on the road, but without the use of a van anymore I needed a load lugger and bought a 940 which has ran perfectly until yesterday, the car started and ticked over for a minute then stalled and would not restart.

 

The car has been parked for a few days in an open space and it has seen some misty weather with the wind driving it at the grille so I have checked all the electrical connectors and sprayed liberal amounts of wd40 on all electrical parts.

 

Then I cracked open the fuel pipe before the injectors and have fuel but no spark, now with an old car with standad ignition system this would be ok but i have never worked on anything with fuel injection or computer.

 

Would a bad reading from a sensor stop my spark if computor says no.

 

I have looked at how to read fault codes by counting led pulses but my car does not seem to have this unit fitted ( last year of production) there is however a spare 2 pin plug on the drivers side strut top plugged into a plastic holder, is this where i need to plug in and if so what reader do i need to check fault codes.

 

Looked on ebay and they want to sell me an obd2 reader but i cant see anywhere to plug it in and i have looked under the dash near steering column.

 

Sorry for long post but hope someone might be able to suggest something as i would rather fix it myself than go to a garage even if i need to buy more tools.

[Guest Hooli]

I seem to recall crank sensors fail on that age of ovlov & when that goes you get no spark & no signal to fire the injectors either.

[CreepingJesus]

If you've got the dizzy against the bulkhead, it's possible it's far, far past its best. It's a pain to change, so I'd guess some folks would leave it alone. And I had exactly the same issue when I neglected to change the cap and arm on the V70 due to laziness/ineptitude. So, dizzy cap and arm.

Although Hooli's crank sensor suggestion is eminently sensible.

 

Wouldn't think yours would have OBD2 on it either.

[MrDuke]

I'm not sure how much effort you're thinking of putting in, but there's a guide to building your own 'fault reader' HERE.

If there is an OBD socket, it'll be in the centre console.

[MikeR]

https://www.brickboard.com/         ?

[Guest Lord Sward]

Manual or auto?

[3VOM]

If there is an OBD socket, it'll be in the centre console.

What he says - it's under a clip in panel next to the handbrake on mine.

Also, does yours have a Volvo alarm because they can be good for a few funnies?

[davidfowler2000]

My 740 disgraced itself recently with a no start, no spark condition. After much dicking about with the dizzy it turned out to be the fuel pump relay.

[Dippy]

Thanks for all the replies, i have now found the obd socket under the centre consul, looks like it was to easy for owners with the factory fitted led.

I may just fit a crank sensor and make my own diagnostic unit as per the link and will also check out the fuel pump relay but i did have preesure in my fuel line.

 

I don't use the alarm but have tried locking and unlocking with the remote and it was still the same.

[Zelandeth]

Systems of this age tended to time everything off the crankshaft position sensor - so as soon as that fails you get no spark or injector pulses.

 

One worth keeping a spare of in the car I'd say...

[DSdriver]

In my experience, a neglected dizzy just meant that I had to drive from Liverpool to Kent on 3 cylinders whereas the fuel pump relay would just cut out intermittently and the restart after a few minutes. Fuel pump shinanegans happened in interesting places like in the middle of a temp lights contraflow and another time on a roundabout with a police car behind me.

So using my analytical brain it is neither of these two items*.

[Ghosty]

I think my Volvo had fuel pump issues in the past - the relevant section of the fusebox is melted

[Lankytim]

I once bought an MOTd Volvo 240 for 75 quid that the RAC couldn’t fix. One donated crank sensor later and off I went. But if a fiddle round the back of the engine though.

 

Ok these any FTP is usually the crank sensor, fuel pump relay (that causes the lambder sensor pic to light up on the dash, there’s a heater on the same circuit or something) or cracked up wires to the dizzy... although people have already mentioned all of that so I’ll pipe down..

[Dippy]

It lives again after building my own fault code reader which came back with no faults thus hopefully eliminating all the computer shite I decided to have a look at the ignition system and as creepingjesus correctly guessed a lazy mechanic had not bothered to check the condition of the dizzy as it was the worst i have ever seen along with the rotor arm and main ht lead where it could not be seen under the dizzy.

 

I gave it all a quick clean and refitted as i wanted to be sure there was no other problem as i thought this would have made it run rough before it failed and it fired sraihgt up.

 

I might drive shite but i dont like to wait for recovery vehicles so tomorrow i will order new dizzy cap rotor arm leads and spark plugs as it is all past its best. I would have usually serviced and had a good look over any new purchase but have been too busy latlly but will now have to make time, i also need to replace the cambelt as i dont trust the car at the moment, it was supposed to be a high mileage but well serviced car although i cant complain for £650.

 

Thanks for everyones helpfull advice all other suggestions have been noted for future ftp's

[tooSavvy]

.... But only ONE page on a Dead Vlovo.

 

This place.....

 

Good Fix M8

 

 

TS

[Shep Shepherd]

Despite having a full Volvo dealer/Volvo specialist service history when I bought it in 2003, The Volvo's distributor cap and rotor arm were the originals (date-stamped 1989 and 1987, respectively) and in a pretty bad way. Based on my findings, it seems that even the pros find them hard to get to.

[Guest Hooli]

I do recall they resulted in lots of swearing from workshop types when I worked in a dealer.

[CreepingJesus]

What's the trick to getting them changed? I should really do mine soon before the winter sets in...

[cpjitservices]

Same here on the 740, if I could just sort that rough idle it'd run perfect!

 

EDIT: have just been told by previous owner of my Volvo, its had an oil and filter change recently and nothing else so looks like I'll be replacing Dizzy etc.

[Dippy]

The dizzy is in a tight spot at the back of the engine but is just held on by 3 screws which take a flathead screwdriver or an 8mm spanner which I found easier.

 

Although its not a great spot its not really a bad job just takes 10 minutes instead of the normal 10 secs.

 

ive just ordered everything for a 50,000 miles service and will be doing this work asap instead of waiting a couple of months when i will have more time.

[cpjitservices]

The dizzy is in a tight spot at the back of the engine but is just held on by 3 screws which take a flathead screwdriver or an 8mm spanner which I found easier.

 

Although its not a great spot its not really a bad job just takes 10 minutes instead of the normal 10 secs.

 

ive just ordered everything for a 50,000 miles service and will be doing this work asap instead of waiting a couple of months when i will have more time.

Yep going to order mines asap, ECP have a sale on (Spooky80) and have everything in stock, spark plus, dizzy, filters, HT Leads etc

[DSdriver]

Took mine into local garage this am, I've done one before

also the lamda light is on and handbrake needs adjusting...

...and they might as well change the oil and filter whilst they are playing

[danthecapriman]

The dizzy is in a tight spot at the back of the engine but is just held on by 3 screws which take a flathead screwdriver or an 8mm spanner which I found easier.

 

Although its not a great spot its not really a bad job just takes 10 minutes instead of the normal 10 secs.

 

ive just ordered everything for a 50,000 miles service and will be doing this work asap instead of waiting a couple of months when i will have more time.

They can be a monumental bastard to change, trust me!

Most of it depends on how old the car is and how long the parts haven't been changed for.

 

Here's my old cap. Exactly as it came of the car, the contacts are very badly worn and it was cracked like that while on the car too. Yet it still ran like this. Badly of course. Notice the date... same age as the car!

 

IMG_0389 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

The cap was a twat to get off but even worse was the rotor arm. It 'should' simply pull off but mine was seized in place some how. I had to kneel on top of the engine and prize it with screwdrivers and wiggle it free to get it off. This was easily the worst cap and rotor change I've ever done! In the end the rotor did come free but it came off in two pieces.

With it being on the rear of the head against the bulkhead just makes it a bit more awkward than if it was still in the conventional dizzy position, but what makes it a real pain in the arse is because it's never changed and everything seizes and gets covered in filth.

If it was changed or at least removed and checked more regularly it wouldn't really be an issue.

[cpjitservices]

They can be a monumental bastard to change, trust me!

Most of it depends on how old the car is and how long the parts haven't been changed for.

 

Here's my old cap. Exactly as it came of the car, the contacts are very badly worn and it was cracked like that while on the car too. Yet it still ran like this. Badly of course. Notice the date... same age as the car!

 

IMG_0389 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

The cap was a twat to get off but even worse was the rotor arm. It 'should' simply pull off but mine was seized in place some how. I had to kneel on top of the engine and prize it with screwdrivers and wiggle it free to get it off. This was easily the worst cap and rotor change I've ever done! In the end the rotor did come free but it came off in two pieces.

With it being on the rear of the head against the bulkhead just makes it a bit more awkward than if it was still in the conventional dizzy position, but what makes it a real pain in the arse is because it's never changed and everything seizes and gets covered in filth.

If it was changed or at least removed and checked more regularly it wouldn't really be an issue.

Dan, Ill be doing this shortly thanks for your info in my Volvo thread...

[danthecapriman]

Dan, Ill be doing this shortly thanks for your info in my Volvo thread...

I hope it goes well on yours. I got extremely angry while doing mine!! You know when you get so angry that vein in your neck start pulsing with rage... just like that!

It's unbelievable how a small piece of plastic can manage to seize to a piece of metal when they're designed to separate easily.

Bloody thing. Still, it shouldn't be an issue from now on as I'll be keeping it in tip top nik myself. Most of the blame for this is on the garages looking after the cars during their lifetime as apposed to the cars fault.

[cpjitservices]

I hope it goes well on yours. I got extremely angry while doing mine!! You know when you get so angry that vein in your neck start pulsing with rage... just like that!

It's unbelievable how a small piece of plastic can manage to seize to a piece of metal when they're designed to separate easily.

Bloody thing. Still, it shouldn't be an issue from now on as I'll be keeping it in tip top nik myself. Most of the blame for this is on the garages looking after the cars during their lifetime as apposed to the cars fault.

Very true, there is service history with my car, though what this entailed I've no idea as the oil filter on there looks to be original, as well as spark plugs. Havent had chance to take dizzy off yet. Did you replace all HT leads by the way ? Im thinking this might be a good idea if I can find all 5. Anyway, going to do the work myself and document it all - then I know its right.

[danthecapriman]

Very true, there is service history with my car, though what this entailed I've no idea as the oil filter on there looks to be original, as well as spark plugs. Havent had chance to take dizzy off yet. Did you replace all HT leads by the way ? Im thinking this might be a good idea if I can find all 5. Anyway, going to do the work myself and document it all - then I know its right.

Yeah I did the lot all at once, just to be thorough.

My old HT leads had gone rock hard so god knows how old they were. I took them off and they stayed in the exact same shape afterwards they'd gone so hard!

I think I got a full set of HT leads and plugs from Euro car parts, the cap and rotor came from a guy on eBay and were Bosch so good quality.

[cpjitservices]

Yeah I did the lot all at once, just to be thorough.

My old HT leads had gone rock hard so god knows how old they were. I took them off and they stayed in the exact same shape afterwards they'd gone so hard!

I think I got a full set of HT leads and plugs from Euro car parts, the cap and rotor came from a guy on eBay and were Bosch so good quality.

Excellent, the Dizzy is available at euro car parts and I think rotor arm is too.

 

Will get them asap, was going to get them today but have had to bin £115 on the wife's Mondeo!