JohnK's Volvo - 740 GL 'E' Reg - Now belongs to JohnK.

[danthecapriman]

Some spacers just sit between the hub and back of the wheel and you just bolt up the wheel sandwiching the spacer.

Others you use the hubs original studs/nuts to bolt the spacer on then the spacer has its own studs/nuts that you bolt the wheel on with.

It's dead easy to add or remove them.

 

Do you have steel or alloy original wheels?

[DSdriver]

Cut the blue wire, its always the blue wire...

 

Wider tyres means more load on all steering parts - knuckle joints, rack etc.

 

...No wait, I meant the red wire. Too late clock ticks down BOOM

[cpjitservices]

Cut the blue wire, its always the blue wire...

 

Wider tyres means more load on all steering parts - knuckle joints, rack etc.

 

...No wait, I meant the red wire. Too late clock ticks down BOOM

LOL thats really helpful If I blow a fuse I shall get you to replace it

Thanks for the info DS regarding fatter tyres

 

Dan, I believe the original wheels are steel, with the original Volvo trims 

[danthecapriman]

The old steels are nice looking wheels. My old 244 had them with the little stainless centre caps.

[cpjitservices]

The old steels are nice looking wheels. My old 244 had them with the little stainless centre caps.

Thanks for the info, Think I'll see if I can get the proper tyres on the rims.

 

Would it be an issue to run with 2x alloys and 2 steels? Though they would be different sizes, this probs wouldn't be a good idea thinking about it.

[cpjitservices]

GHOSTY... any ideas which wires I need to use to bridge the rheostat? Ta mate.

[rml2345]

I've got a couple of rheostats for 700 series instrument clusters if you want to try replacing it first? It's built into the dash pod and dead easy to remove, done it about a hundred times myself with no issues and a very basic toolkit.

[cpjitservices]

I've got a couple of rheostats for 700 series instrument clusters if you want to try replacing it first? It's built into the dash pod and dead easy to remove, done it about a hundred times myself with no issues and a very basic toolkit.

Sounds just the ticket!!!!!!!

 

To be honest.... I could do with a spare set of clocks as fuel and temp gauge do drop off occasionally. Well, fuel gauge is none existent!

 

How much do you want for the rheostat?

[rml2345]

Nothing me old fruit, PM me your address and I'll pop it in the post. Full clusters are a bit of a minefield unfortunately as they did several types so you'd need the part number from yours to get a match and they don't wear terribly well generally. Which gauges work? Might be easier to live with most of it.

Also, be careful of the PCB on the back of the cluster as they can be quite fragile.

[cpjitservices]

Mostly the temp works but does drop to zero now and again think that ones a loose connection, but fuel gauge doesn't work at all, then all of a sudden it will tell me I have a full tank. Its erratic when it does work so I may need a new gauge.

 

Thanks mate, ill send you my address. Do you want costs for postage?

[cpjitservices]

Don't suppose you have a set of Tan Door cards

 

Hopefully someone breaking one in the right colour will pop up on ebay shortly.

[cpjitservices]

Nothing me old fruit, PM me your address and I'll pop it in the post. Full clusters are a bit of a minefield unfortunately as they did several types so you'd need the part number from yours to get a match and they don't wear terribly well generally. Which gauges work? Might be easier to live with most of it.

Also, be careful of the PCB on the back of the cluster as they can be quite fragile.

Apparently the one I need is the VDO type, all I was thinking was - If I try repairing the fuel gauge and I knacker it up, I have a set of standby clocks.

[Ghosty]

GHOSTY... any ideas which wires I need to use to bridge the rheostat? Ta mate.

 

I’m afraid not, I bought it like that!

[cpjitservices]

I’m afraid not, I bought it like that!

Thanks mate looks like we may have a solution thats to

 rml2345

[cpjitservices]

Long shot but I dont suppose any one knows what this device is on the inner side of the strut? Also follow the blue pipe - its disconnected and looks like a vacuum pipe. Can someone confirm if its supposed to be connected - someone with similar engine? Mines the 2.3 B230K.

 

Here's a photo

 

 

Never mind - found a diagram online... connects to bottom of air tube. Engine running sensor apparently.

[cpjitservices]

Off she goes for new rear silencer fitted and center pipe replacing.

 

should make it sound better!

 

S80 Wheels will be coming off. Original ones to go back on with new tyres.

[cpjitservices]

Shes back

 

Complete with new zorst components.

[rml2345]

Excellent! I'm guessing the odd conponent is something carb related? Never seen one on an injected 740, bracket is usually empty.

[Shep Shepherd]

Off she goes for new rear silencer fitted and center pipe replacing.

 

should make it sound better!

 

S80 Wheels will be coming off. Original ones to go back on with new tyres.

 

Are the original wheels 14" or 15" in size? I have a huge number of used-but-serviceable OEM plastic wheeltrims going spare for the latter wheels, which I have amassed over the past 14 years of owning The Volvo.

[cpjitservices]

Are the original wheels 14" or 15" in size? I have a huge number of used-but-serviceable OEM plastic wheeltrims going spare for the latter wheels, which I have amassed over the past 14 years of owning The Volvo.

14" I have trims with them I believe - Original, Volvo with centre caps!

 

[cpjitservices]

Excellent! I'm guessing the odd conponent is something carb related? Never seen one on an injected 740, bracket is usually empty.

No Idea, That thing on the inner wing, has a hose coming off it with a jubilee clip on the end, but its not connected to anything and the hose is about a meter long if that.

 

Strange

[MikeR]

its a vacuum amplifier ....  

 

 

I had fun doing the radio on my 240 years ago , hidden amp behind the gearstick

 

 

 

[cpjitservices]

its a vacuum amplifier ....  

 

 

I had fun doing the radio on my 240 years ago , hidden amp behind the gearstick

 

IMGP8956.JPG

I searched hi and low for the amp, couldn't find it. Ran separate speaker cable to front speakers to bypass! Sound is good, but could do with more BASS! So looking at a nice set of 6x9's on ebay

[cpjitservices]

Lumpy idle, where would one start to look?

 

Also when starting for first time, I have to hold revs on for a couple of mins otherwise the revs will drop and she will cut out. Holding revs on, then she will tick over no prob after a minute or two.

 

Any ideas?

[Ghosty]

Carb? Failing that the idle control valve (if that's not a K-Jet part).

[cpjitservices]

Carb? Failing that the idle control valve (if that's not a K-Jet part).

Don't really know much about them nor do I want to go disturbing it due it being a Pierburg and very fragile apparently 

[Ghosty]

<Junkman> it's not Pierburgs that are shit it's English people</Junkman>

 

I can understand that! It is reasonably likely something in it will be clagged up though. 

See also inlet manifold.

[cpjitservices]

Carb? Failing that the idle control valve (if that's not a K-Jet part).

Hmmmm not sure whether mine has one.

[Ghosty]

Yeah it's probably an injection part and I'm being thick.

[cpjitservices]

<Junkman> it's not Pierburgs that are shit it's English people</Junkman>

 

I can understand that! It is reasonably likely something in it will be clagged up though. 

See also inlet manifold.

Hmmmm might see if my local mechanic can strip down the carb and have a look see if it needs cleaning up or something! Not something I'm confident with.