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[dollywobbler]

Head is back on, but tightening sequence abandoned due to rain. Ugh. More hideous weather tomorrow, and I won't be here, but apart from that, it's going really well.

[dollywobbler]

Head now torqued down correctly. A 3/8" socket makes a fine six-sided substitute for the one stupid-headed bolt. 

 

However, the valve timing seems to be completely out. We marked the pulley position, but with it back on, it doesn't match the marks I made on the belt. ARSE. As it's still pissing down with rain, this job can wait.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

I was spending quality time with my new nephew, but babies are quite boring, doing little more than sleeping and trying to control their own limbs. During one cuddle, I had a hand free to peruse Facebook. On said social media platform, I found a Nissan Bluebird for sale. It's the highly desirable 1.6 LX in saloon form, in the same shade of 'meh' blue as the famous Gluebird at Santa Pod. Here's a high quality* pic, of the sort that enabled me to make a highly informed decision.

 A British-built one.

 

 

 

 

Sunderland.

 

Because Thatcher.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Head now torqued down correctly. A 3/8" socket makes a fine six-sided substitute for the one stupid-headed bolt. 

 

However, the valve timing seems to be completely out. We marked the pulley position, but with it back on, it doesn't match the marks I made on the belt. ARSE. As it's still pissing down with rain, this job can wait.

 

 

 

Jesus, don't do a Vulg, put the head on upside down and engage in a 6 month rant fest when it won't start. 

 

Known issue on these - second choke won't open leading to distinctly flat performance. I can't think what caused it as it was almost 30 years ago that I had to sort one. Good call on the head skim.

[dollywobbler]

Head is definitely the right way up...

[twosmoke300]

And the gasket ? Now that is an easy mistake to make !

[beko1987]

When I had the xantia engine issues I found crying through the medium of forum posts, Facebook owners group posts and real tears, coupled with a fresh look and doing nothing really different but having it on and off 8 times did the trick!

 

And a call from wor_will, but he may not know this engine as well as an xud

[dollywobbler]

And the gasket ? Now that is an easy mistake to make !

 

It didn't seem to say. However, it's not symmetrical, so I think I got it right. I don't think you can get it wrong. 

 

I guess I'll have to rock the engine back a bit to get the timing marks to line up. It's going to be a very nervy first turn of the engine...

[beko1987]

Turn the crank by hand a few times before you fire it up. It's not like the xud where the slack in the belt has to be in exactly the right place or it pulls cogs out by a tooth or 2 is it? That caught me out

[dollywobbler]

Oh I will, don't worry! Certainly won't be just wanging the starter and crossing my fingers.

[twosmoke300]

Turn the crank by hand a few times before you fire it up. It's not like the xud where the slack in the belt has to be in exactly the right place or it pulls cogs out by a tooth or 2 is it? That caught me out

Taking the slack out of the driven side of the belt is critical on 99% of cambelts . Isuzu 1.5/1.7diesels are one exception that I know of .

[dollywobbler]

Taking the slack out of the driven side of the belt is critical on 99% of cambelts . Isuzu 1.5/1.7diesels are one exception that I know of .

 

Ok, so I'm going to have to access the tensioner, which I think means removing the engine mounting, which leaves me wondering whether I can get the crank pulley undone so I can just have done and replace the sodding belt anyway. May as well do water pump and tensioner as well and hope no-one ever asks me to add up the cost of this 'cheap' car... (normal service for me then!)

[twosmoke300]

If you aren't payIng for labour I would get it up and running with the old belt , tensioner and pump for now . You could have a cracked block or might drink oil for all you know . It's rarely worth cutting corners and not taking the bottom pulley off to do a head gasket . It is possible to slip the belt on without on some engines but you need to have a bit of experience in that engine really to know where all the marks are etc .

[PhilA]

Yeah, the timing belt is easy to do in situ on a Bluey. Whop it together, get the rest of the clearances right then fling a new belt and pump on it later once it's flushed through a little.

 

Good engines. Mine started and ran on one cylinder when the head gasket failed slightly*. It did pump the coolant out of the exhaust though.

 

Good call on the top end. Likely it would have been a bit blue from the exhaust, they do like to get smoky if they aren't cared for.

 

Fix it up, I think you'll learn to appreciate it as a conveyance, foibles and all. Comfy way to burn away the miles.

 

Phil

[PhilA]

Oh, and by design the headlights are dire*.

 

Just a forewarning.

 

 

Phil

 

 

* Frame of reference in this case was a Hillman Super Minx with 9" sealed beams as a comparison.

[dollywobbler]

This one was pumping water out of the exhaust. Blown on two cylinders. Just tried a bit of tinkering between showers, but I need to get the water pump pulley off to get the lower timing cover off to access the tensioner bolts. I may yet need to get the bottom pulley off too, which will be fun*. Engine is COVERED in oil down at the bottom as well. Not yet found where that was coming from. Head gasket and/or cam cover gasket my thoughts. As I'm replacing both, I shall hope it is those anyway...

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

 Just tried a bit of tinkering between showers

 

I can imagine you doing the tappets in a dressing gown. Either very slow work, or you smell. 

[PhilA]

Yeah, as you discovered, the head gaskets get very crispy with age.

 

A new one coupled with the skim should dry it up considerably.

Mine leaked a little but not enough that it dripped on the road.

 

Phil

[dollywobbler]

Well, I can't see how I'm going to get the lower belt cover off without removing the pulley, so I'm going to have to find a way to lock the engine. This is all rather annoying and faffy. Stupid overhead camshafts.

[twosmoke300]

This is where an impact gun is your friend . Mark the position of the pulley bolt in relation to the pulley . Whizz out with the gun . Do job . Buzz back up with the gun until the marks line up plus a gnats knacker and jobs done

[dollywobbler]

This is where an impact gun is your friend . Mark the position of the pulley bolt in relation to the pulley . Whizz out with the gun . Do job . Buzz back up with the gun until the marks line up plus a gnats knacker and jobs done

 

Aye, but I still need to lock the engine. I doubt compression alone will be enough to undo it. Impact gun is on standby once I solve this conundrum. Also need to find a way to support the engine so I can remove the engine mount, but I think I'll have a crack at the bolt first.

[twosmoke300]

You dont need to lock it with a decent impact gun , just hold the bottom pulley with a gloved hand to stop it freewheeling .

[dollywobbler]

I think I'll go for in-gear, brakes on nonetheless as a back-up. And hope my impact gun is actually up to the job...

[Supernaut]

I think I'll go for in-gear, brakes on nonetheless as a back-up. And hope my impact gun is actually up to the job...

I was just about to suggest in-gear and brakes on, too.

 

I did that on a 306 HDi I used to have, because of its stupid damped crank pulley that wore out and went eccentric, shredding the aux belt. It got replaced with a solid pulley.

[beko1987]

In 5th brakes on did the meriva, just in 5th with the (front) handbrake on did the xantia (with one wheel on the ground).

[PhilA]

I'm trying to remember which way it rotates. I might have put a breaker bar on mine to the floor and used the starter motor to crack the lower pulley bolt on mine off.

[dollywobbler]

I'm trying to remember which way it rotates. I might have put a breaker bar on mine to the floor and used the starter motor to crack the lower pulley bolt on mine off.

 

I've certainly used that technique before with success, but don't want to risk turning the engine while valve timing is unknown. At the moment, all of the valves are backed off on the rockers, but they still open a bit...

[dollywobbler]

Got the pulley off. Rattle gun did it no bother. One of the tensioner bolts was then seized, and I had to deploy violence to remove it. During this, I managed to knock the belt off the bottom pulley, so there goes any timing I had.

 

So, I just need to think out loud for a moment. I can easily establish when cylinder one is at the top of its travel, albeit it's a two person job as I can't turn the engine and keep an eye on the bit of wire in the spark plug hole at the same time. Manual suggests that after reaching the top, I need to make sure the crank timing mark lines up with its tag - I've just dabbed some white paint on it to make that bit easier.

 

There is a timing mark on the camshaft too, so it seems to me that as long as both timing marks are correctly aligned, chucking a belt on (sans tensioner for the moment) will re-establish my valve timing. Does this follow? 

[twosmoke300]

As long as the belt is tight along its driven ( usually the front ) run then yes. 

[dollywobbler]

As long as the belt is tight along its driven ( usually the front ) run then yes. 

 

Grand. Haven't got the new belt, pump and tensioner yet, but nice to know I'm getting somewhere. Won't tighten down the valve clearances yet, just in case!

 

So in effect, the crank rotations are just that. The actual four-stroke cycle is entirely controlled by the head. I think. Suddenly, 2CV engines are seeming really, really simple...