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Mondeo Mk2 purchased


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Posted

Went last night to look at a Mondeo Mk2 1.8, seen it on Bumtree nearby, in same villiage in fact! Really solid underneath, even the arches, sills and brake pipes are still in one piece without resembling Weetabix. Paid £350. WCPGW!!

  • Like 6
Posted

Is the rear bumper gaffer taped?

 

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Posted

64,000 on the clock, full continental timing belt kit 20k ago. Tested until October.

 

At the end of the day I really liked the Mk3 diesel but I'd spent nothing on it in the 7 month I had it, the test was coming up and there's stuff to do for it plus the occasional problem of the Coil light. Could see expense on the horizon. Stuck it on Gumtree...

Posted

Well done. You know it makes sense! What trim level?

Posted

Verona. Based in LX. Picking it up later tonight pics to follow!!

 

At this sort of money you are buying on condition, could have got something newer but worse nick. Plus they're a bit of an emerging classic!

Posted

I had one of these in 1999 R363RJH Black 1.8LX 

 

nice ride

 

Trail goes cold in 2009, Car was clearly worth less than the cost of a brake light bulb at that point

 

MOT history of this vehicle

  • Test date14 March 2009
  • Test ResultFail
  • Odometer reading85,234 miles
  • MOT test number4826 9397 9012
  • Reason(s) for failure
    Nearside Stop lamp not working (1.2.1b)
Posted

Picked up. Well impressed, drives nicely, it's just reminded me how nice a petrol is in a car this size. Would have took a picture but it's pitch black now...

Posted

Looks nice, i know many on here hate them but having owned 2 Mk2's I'm quite fond of them, good ones are getting harder to find now though.

Posted

Yep they certainly are, and that one looks spot on, and it's a good colour

Posted

I had a MK2 about 2 weeks ago, took it in for MOT and whilst it was on the ramp the fuel pump failed. New pump fitted still no Buzz when ignition turned on, so suspecting immobilizer problem.

 

Tried all sorts, tried spare key, battery off etc. Nothing worked. So off to the scrappy it went.

 

Shame really, the 1.8 Petrol was a nice engine and it drove sweet as a nut.

 

I have a MK3 2.0 TDCI now.

Posted

I had a MK2 about 2 weeks ago, took it in for MOT and whilst it was on the ramp the fuel pump failed. New pump fitted still no Buzz when ignition turned on, so suspecting immobilizer problem.

 

Tried all sorts, tried spare key, battery off etc. Nothing worked. So off to the scrappy it went.

 

Shame really, the 1.8 Petrol was a nice engine and it drove sweet as a nut.

 

I have a MK3 2.0 TDCI now.

 

I think getting around immobiliser problems without the Red Key is a real problem nowadays. I couldn't get a key programmed for my similar age Escort (either from the dealers, whom the garage I worked at had a good relationship, or in the trade generally).

Posted

There is a chap in cornwall ( Manic motors) that sells ecus on eBay that have had the immob removed for about a ton . I had him do one for me when a customers 406 went haywire

Posted

Went last night to look at a Mondeo Mk2 1.8, seen it on Bumtree nearby, in same villiage in fact! Really solid underneath, even the arches, sills and brake pipes are still in one piece without resembling Weetabix. Paid £350. WCPGW!!

bargain

Posted

That's a late run out model on an X. Verona first appeared on the Mk1 as a special edition, funnily enough at run out time for that model as well (spring/summer 96), was based on LX but only available in metallic blue or green.

 

A petrol Mk1/2 is basically a car that will go for ever as long as you can keep the rust at bay and keep feeding it front lower wishbones. At 64k it shouldn't need a clutch until about 2025!

 

I am a major fan of Mk1/2s and am glad they are making it past the 'what an old heap' stage into 'worth preserving nice ones' stage. Mk2s do like to rust on the sills/arches though, get the Waxoyl out!

Posted

That's my first job. It's got a tiny bubble under the filler cap. Best way to treat that I'd say would be chip off the bubble, rust converter and touch it up with a brush. Then plaster it from the back with Waxoyl, will stop it getting worse. Surprisingly the sills have never been welded, I'd quite like to preserve the original finish on the sills, so might have to give them a mist of Waxoyl. Keep it original! I'll take some picture tonight...

Posted

Please don't use Waxoyl! Bilthamber all the way.

Your car is a good example, and if you want to keep it that way, there's better products out there.

  • Like 3
Posted

Seconded - waxoyl is rubbish , things have moved on .

I'm a Dinitrol man my self

Posted

That's not so bad. Worth a bit of treatment for sure.

 

When everyone on here says 'use bilt hamber' - I assume it means Dynax UB (or the clear one UC?)

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments

Dynax in the cavities is all I have ever used. But like Two Smoke says, Dinitrol is also the business.

As are all of Bilthamber's paints and the Deox gel lol.

 

I sense a pattern!

Posted

Had a better look tonight, this is the trailing edge of the inner sills, usually this is a right poultice on them...

 

On the second picture, I'd grinded the surface rust back, then painted some rust converter on before giving several coats of red oxide.

post-5724-0-08819100-1493410285_thumb.jpg

post-5724-0-35411400-1493410343_thumb.jpg

post-5724-0-57530300-1493410411_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

that's where mine are beginning to go. I've just done Kurust for now, but needs a better solution like this.

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