Project Volvo 740, MOT - in the bag.

[danthecapriman]

Omg, it didn't rain today!!

 

It's been dry and quite nice out today so I got the spaners out.

I couldn't be arsed getting too dirty today so decided I'd concentrate on the cooling system. I drained out the old coolant which actually wasn't as bad as I'd first thought. There's definitely been a stop leak additive in it though, it had left a gungy residue behind so I've flushed it out as best I can and thoroughly cleaned out the header tank as there was a lot of it in there.

I've also taken the thermostat housing off, replaced the thermostat and cleaned up the housing as this had a lot of scum and crystallised antifreeze inside it. Both the bolts that hold it on have been cleaned up and coated in grease to make it come apart easier next time too.

Finally I've completely replaced the radiator for a brand new one. Everything came apart and went back perfectly and I've cleaned out the crossmember under the rad while it was out.

Everything connected back up, new antifreeze added and it was run up to temperature and bled through.

Easy job but it needed doing and can now be ticked off the list.

 

Next job will be the oil system. Engine oil and filter, rocker cover gasket, flame trap breather element, and auto box oil and filter. Hopefully tomorrow's job if it's dry.

[danthecapriman]

Did some more today.

Changed the engine oil and filter. Then changed the fuel filter... Which was a right twat! It's under the floor on these and sits next to the second fuel pump in a little cage.

I unbolted the cage which revealed a very dirty and old fuel filter. All the unions were rusted to hell and took a lot of effort to free them off. Got them off in the end and put a new genuine Volvo filter back on.

This was made even more fun by the underside of the car being coated in underseal which started dissolving once the old fuel filter was undone. The leaking petrol combined with dissolved underseal left a black sticky gunk all over everything.

 

IMG_0395 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

New fuel filter in place inside it's little cage.

 

I've also checked the brakes. The rears don't look too bad, the discs look fairly new still and there's loads of meat on the pads. The caliper seems to be free too so I'm going to try to just give the rears a clean up and re use them.

 

IMG_0397 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Rear brakes.

 

 

The fronts are about fucked. The discs have a big lip on them and the pads are just about worn out. The calipers are sticking/seized though so I'm going to change the lot on the fronts.

 

IMG_0394 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Front brakes.

 

There's a bit of confusion about the parts though. By the looks of it I've got Girling calipers, I've measured the disc and it seems to be a 262mm diameter disc. However, the info on parts for Volvo's (PFS) site suggests the 262mm disc doesn't go with the Girling calipers! Instead it says I need the bigger 287mm disc? Can't be right surely? Anyone know any better?

[cms206]

I can't help with brakes other than a "Good luck", but 287mm discs won't fit behind 14in wheels IIRC.

 

Also, remember: two sizes of caliper, single pot, twin pot and with or without ABS, then add in the different brake set ups... don't suppose it still has the sticker in the nearside rear door shut with the specs for your car on it?

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[danthecapriman]

I can't help with brakes other than a "Good luck", but 287mm discs won't fit behind 14in wheels IIRC.

Also, remember: two sizes of caliper, single pot, twin pot and with or without ABS, then add in the different brake set ups... don't suppose it still has the sticker in the nearside rear door shut with the specs for your car on it?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

The stickers still there but I can't read it anymore. Looks like it's faded and got old.

 

There's quite a few brake combinations on these! My fronts look like no ABS, twin piston, Girling (comparing pics from Volvo OC website), with 14'' wheels. Which, if the 287mm disc won't fit behind the 14'' rim would make sense. So I must have the 262mm discs if that's the case.

 

I remember this being a pain in the arse on my old saloon! That one had Bendix twin piston calipers and it took a couple of go's to get all the right parts.

 

 

None of this stuff is cheap either! To completely replace just the front brake parts (calipers, discs, pads, flexi hoses) isn't far off £400!

 

 

Oh, and I've discovered my sunroof is leaking now too. The headlining is getting damp in the front left corner around the sunroof hatch. Guess the drain tubes are blocked so I'll have to find some wire to shove down the holes.

[trigger]

Have a look on here for the brakes you need, you should be able to work it from the size and pictures.

 

http://www.ferodo.com/catalogue.html#fitment_id=2799&search_type=vehicle

[danthecapriman]

Just had a quick look at the other side front brakes to see if there's anything there to confirm the set up I've got.

 

IMG_0400 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

This one has a brand name!

Girling system on the front.

However, I've just checked the data panel in the rear door shut now it's day time and I can just about make out a number 3 in the brake configuration box. Number 3 translates to DBA/Bendix! Not what I have!

I've no idea why it no longer matches up unless someone's swapped the front brakes for some reason? Odd.

 

That clears that up though so I've ordered a pair of 262mm discs and Girling front pads, all genuine Volvo parts! And I've also ordered a pair of Girling caliper slider recon kits. I've tried levering the calipers sliders and pistons back and they are moving so I'm going to try cleaning up and exercise the calipers instead of replacing them (for cost reasons!) hopefully with a clean up and the new slider recon kits they should be good enough to keep using, at least for a while anyway.

[danthecapriman]

Weather today was nice so I managed to get the front brakes done.

 

The front pads were almost worn down completely and the discs both had a big lip around the edge so I got some new ones after eventually managing to find out which type of brakes I've got. There's quite a few different types and front/rear combinations on these.

A bit of shopping around revealed prices for genuine parts weren't much more than decent quality non OE stuff so it seemed stupid not to get genuine Volvo stuff. Only the best for my brick!

 

IMG_0405 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

IMG_0401 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

New Volvo discs and pads, I also got a pair of calliper slider repair kits since they can be a pain for sticking on these. They're complete kits with new slider pins, bolts, dust boots and proper grease sachets.

The genuine discs also come with new calliper bolts too.

While it was in bits I cleaned up as much of the back plate and hubs as possible without going ott.

Both callipers were exercised and cleaned up then re greased and re assembled. Neither seem to be seized so I've also changed the brake fluid at the same time. It needed doing as the old stuff was vile.

 

IMG_0402 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

Old bits, all well past their best and fit for the bin.

 

While I was at it I found the anti roll bar links were in a bit of a state, I spotted these last time I had the wheels off and ordered a pair of new ones. Forward planning!

Unfortunately on getting the new ones out of the box I found they are in fact the wrong sodding ones!

It turns out most of these have cast iron lower arms so the bottom of the common type of ARB link has a simple bolt through a bush into the side of the arm...

My car however is fitted with cast alloy lower arms for some odd reason which means the ARB link can not be bolted on in the same way. Instead it has a pair of bushes at the top and another pair at the bottom with a crush tube in the middle. And I can't find any new ones of this type!

 

IMG_0404 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

It also means I've got a pair of new incorrect ones that I can't send back as I've lost the receipt!

Anyone want them cheap?

They are a pair of this type: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anti-Roll-Sway-Bar-Moog-fits-Volvo-740-2-3-2-4-Diesel-2-3-Turbo-2-4-Turbo-D-2-0-/311637570725?fits=Car+Make%3AVolvo%7CModel%3A740&hash=item488f0bf4a5:g:BzsAAOSwGIRXZM5j

Complete ready to use.

[danthecapriman]

Had a bit of time again today and took advantage of it being a nice dry day by having a look at why the sunroof was leaking.

For some reason the sunroof will only open on the tilt. Trying to wind the handle the other way to fully slide the panel back just results in the thing jamming solid. I think if I try any harder something's going to get broken. No idea what happened to that.

I didn't want to risk taking it to bits to fix it either as I don't want a hole in the roof this time of year if it won't go back again.

 

This of course made fixing the leak a right bastard! Normally you can slide the sunroof back which reveals the four drain tubes, one in each corner.

Since I couldn't do this I instead had to strip out the interior trim from around the A pillar and drop the headlining.

The leak was only in the passenger side front corner area as the headliner was dry around the rest of it.

 

Once the trim and headlining was out the way I could see the back of the sunroof tray and the little drain tube, attached to this is a rubber hose held on with a jubilee clip which runs down the A post and out under the car. It was very damp up in the roof area around this so I've wiped it all out and dried it off as best I can.

Then I got a tiny socket and ratchet up there and just tweeked up all the sunroof tray bolts just in case any were loose and letting water past them.

Then I undid the jubilee clip from the hose and pulled the hose off. No sign of any crap in there but I fed some old electrical wire into the drain tube towards the sunroof tray which seemed to hit a bit of resistance at first. Waving it around and in then out seemed to clear whatever it was.

I poured a little water through it from outside the car which ran through perfectly well.

 

Next was the hose. Access was poor for this so I bent it down as far as I could and blew down it as hard as I could. First try and it was definitely blocked as I couldn't blow through it.

Second try and it was the same before suddenly blowing through! Again, no idea what it was but it's definitely cleared and I could easily blow through it. The drain hole in the sill was also lanced with the wire before everything was connected back up and a load of water poured into the sunroof tray.

The water runs through freely now, there's some bits of dirt and moss in it when it comes out of the sill hole so that must have been what it was?

There's no signs of leaks around the inside of the sunroof either now so I think the drain was blocked which caused the water to back up and overflow into the car, wetting the headlining in the process.

 

Sadly the wet has damaged the headliner a bit. The fabric has come away from the back board in a small area above the passenger seat giving it a droopy appearance. It's not too obvious with the sun visor folded up though.

I just need to try to dry it all out now, so I've left the car sat in the sun with the windows down to air it out. Not easy this time of year though! I might try an electric dehumidifier tomorrow if it's dry.

[Noel Tidybeard]

get some WD40* into as much of the mechanism as possible cos sunroofs can get as stiff as buggery through lack of use

[danthecapriman]

The last few days I've had on this have been cleaning, the interior was absolutely minging.

At some point the car has leaked resulting in the carpets getting damp. This wasn't helped by the car being sat unused as it just stayed damp inside. The original Volvo plastic floor trays don't help either as they stop any sunlight or warmth getting to the damp carpet to dry it out.

 

So, I've removed the floor trays, hoovered out all the ingrained dirt from the carpets and left them to air dry. Every dry day I get the windows down and let the car air out. This does seem to be working as it's drying out very nicely now.

The cause of the leak was both the sunroof drain being blocked (fixed) and the footwell air vents. The gaskets for these aren't the best so any rain water that drains down the scuttle drains goes down the A posts past these vents. I've stripped out the front kick panel trims and found a tell tale water mark around the bottoms of both air vents so I'd say these were the cause.

To fix it I've simply cleaned the areas around them and run a thick bead of seam sealer around them, covering the original gaskets. Seems to have done the job so far.

 

The damp problem has also caused some mould around all the lower plastic trims on the seat bottoms and door entry trims. It was thick black horrible stuff.

In addition to this all the door trims, dash and other plastic/vinyl trims around the car were filthy with years worth of grime. It was really stubborn and ingrained so any normal car cleaners just wouldn't touch it. I think it looked worse because of the tan colour of most of the trim, being light coloured the dirt showed up more.

I used a small sponge with a scouring pad on one side and an old tooth brush with lots of warm soapy water and normal household Cif cream cleaner to scrub everything up. Even using this it was hard work and so far has taken me two full days to clean everything back to an acceptable standard!

Once the grime was gone I went around again with a clean cloth and clean water to wipe away any remaining dirt and cream cleaner residue.

It's come up really well now, there's still a bit more to go over again but it's a massive improvement.

 

I've cleaned literally everything inside the car now except the seats and carpets. The seats will need a good scrub with leather cleaner and then some conditioner which I've got ready to use.

The carpets, I'm going to wet vac but need to get the seats out first and I also need the weather to warm up and dry a bit first.

 

IMG_0406 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

IMG_0407 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

IMG_0408 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

IMG_0409 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

IMG_0410 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

IMG_0411 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

It's not the nicest job ever, cleaning all that crud out and I was dreading doing it tbh but it's made a huge difference. I don't mind sitting in it now or touching it! It's even smelling much nicer in there too.

There's a few bits of broken trim that I'll need to replace but that can come later assuming I can find any in the right colour.

 

Next job will be replacing the anti roll bar links as the new correct type ones are now here and welding a couple of small holes in the floor I've found.

[danthecapriman]

Got both the front anti roll bar links changed today, despite the weathers best efforts!

They were an absolute bastard to get off. They were also the cars originals given the branding on the underside of each of the rubbers.

The worst one was the nearside, the rubber bush on the bottom had split almost in half and they were all crushed and in a right state. The nuts were seized solid and even my electric impact gun couldnt get them undone. Eventually with lots of flames and swear words then running the impact gun in alternating directions got them free.

The offside one was easier. The top nut undid easily and the bottom one was seized solid but with the amount of force applied to undo it it simply snapped the link pin clean in half which actually made removal a lot easier.

 

The new ones are stainless so rust shouldn't be an issue next time. The main anti roll bar U clamps had to be removed to get the new link pins through, they seem fine as do their bushes so they were reassembled with the bolts greased to prevent seizure. The link pins come in a kit with stainless pin, 4 rubber bushes, 4 stainless cup washers and a pair of stainless nylock nuts, all very straight forward to assemble. On tightening, each pair of rubbers need tightening down to 42mm between the washers for correct assembly and I also greased the threads on the pins, just in case!

 

Also, the relentless pissing rain has again made the sunroof leak! I thought I'd cured this but evidently not. This time I managed to get the sunroof open properly to clear the tubes.

The sunroof had just got stuck, a quick thump downwards from outside the car had it free and working again so I poured a little water down the drain hole. It ran out under the car but was much slower to come out than the other side so I've lanced it out with some stiff wire and flushed clean water through it with a big syringe squirted hard and fast down the drain tube. All seems fine now so I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

 

Welding is the next job but I'll need dry weather to do that so don't hold your breath on an update for a while!

[Ben_O]

I think i have somewhere a genuine Volvo rear dog guard that fits above the rear seat if it's any use?

 

It's the type that swings up and clips to the inside of the roof when not needed.

[danthecapriman]

I think i have somewhere a genuine Volvo rear dog guard that fits above the rear seat if it's any use?

 

It's the type that swings up and clips to the inside of the roof when not needed.

Dogs. Good heavens man I don't allow animals in my vehicles! Or kids for that matter, horrible filth generating little shits!

[Ben_O]

Dogs. Good heavens man I don't allow animals in my vehicles! Or kids for that matter, horrible filth generating little shits!

Fair enough.

 

I removed it from my Estate when i scrapped it and it's just sitting about

[danthecapriman]

Fair enough.

 

I removed it from my Estate when i scrapped it and it's just sitting about

Cheers for the offer though!

You could try putting on the Volvo OC forum? I bet someone on there would want it.

[danthecapriman]

This weekend I've done a little more to this. I didn't really want to tbh given recent Capri related events, I wasn't in the mood at all for anything car related but forced myself out to do a bit.

 

Firstly the good news, last time I managed to get the sunroof open properly and gave the drains a better clean out. Well it's been very wet lately, sometimes the rain (and hail!) have been very heavy and I'm pleased to report that the leaking has stopped. The headlining is staying dry now and has actually stopped sagging in the offending corner so fingers crossed it's fixed now.

 

Now the not so good news, when I was cleaning the interior out I'd found the carpet was wet on the NS rear floor. Since then I've sealed up the front footwell vent seals and this has allowed the carpets to dry out and despite the shitty weather they are staying dry, all good.

But, under the car in the same area was a few rusty coloured stains! You know what's coming.

I decided to have a look so removed the front passenger seat and stripped the carpets and under felt out to reveal a grim sight.

It's been leaking for a long time and the water had all run to the lowest area and soaked the under felt which held moisture against the floor. This has left about 10 small holes through the floor. They are all fairly small, the biggest is about a 1p size, but it's also rotted out one whole corner of one of the front seat mounts.

I was mightily pissed about this given other troubles at the moment but this is all there is rust wise, the other side is pristine.

So far I've chopped out most of the rusted metal and need to make up a few repair patches and weld them in.

Luckily this is work I can do as/when and costs me nothing as I've already got the tools and materials.

 

As it's been pissing down again most of today I decided to have a go cleaning the front seat as it was out already so did this down in the shed.

I've got some leather cleaner and managed to scrub off an awful lot of the dirt and grime. It's never going to be the same as new again but it's an improvement.

Once it had all dried off I've used some leather conditioner feed on it to make the hide soft again. It's looking good now but just needs a bit of time for the conditioner to soak in and dry off.

[cms206]

Those 740 steels will only fit pre-MY89 740s or 240s; they physically won't fit over the calipers in 'MY89-on models. I've been looking for a set for the council estate for bloody ages so if theres no rush/no interest can I blag them at some point?

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[danthecapriman]

Those 740 steels will only fit pre-MY89 740s or 240s; they physically won't fit over the calipers in 'MY89-on models. I've been looking for a set for the council estate for bloody ages so if theres no rush/no interest can I blag them at some point?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Not had any interest so far so if you want them they're yours. No idea how much post would cost though?

[danthecapriman]

Also got another coat of leather conditioner onto the backrest and base of the passenger seat. Looks and feels lovely now. The leathers going nice and soft and smooth as it should be, and it smells lovely too.

It's still a little bit hard in a few places but for now I'm happy with it so I'll give them another conditioner feed every few months and see if it'll come back over time. Good enough for now though.

 

I'll get the holes in the floor pan sorted asap then get a pic of the seats old and dirty next to clean and tidy. I think once the welding is done it'll be MOT time.

[danthecapriman]

Had another day on this today. Mojo was higher today so I got lots done!

 

The welding on this has been a nightmare. The little holes were all in the worst places they could have been, underneath the seat mounts and internal crossmember.

The only way to do this right was to cut out the rear outer seat mounting and a big chunk of the crossmember. This left the holed floorpan which I've cut out two big sections of to get rid of most of the holes and grotty metal in one hit.

These have now had new sections made from sheet steel and seam welded in place along with a small repair to the inner sill. Once the welds were ground down they were given a coat of zinc paint and seam sealer.

This left a couple of small isolated holes which were easily cut out and welded up again.

 

I thought I was about done but then noticed a bit more rust stained underseal around the front jacking point/chassis leg area.

Stripping out the front carpets revealed a big bulge in the bitumen sound deadening pad. Scraping this away left a nice big rusty hole around the point where the floor pan, chassis leg and jack point all join together!

Nothing for it then, so I chopped out the floor, about 6'' x 3'' section then chopped out the top inch or so of the chassis leg beneath.

The chassis was repaired with a nice thick strip of steel, with a right angle bend at the top (to spot weld the floor pan onto the chassis leg). This was fettled to a perfect fit and seam welded in. Then the new floor piece was cut to shape and spot welded onto the repair section of the chassis leg, then finally seam welded around the edges to the original floorpan. It has also been given a coat of zinc paint and the joints seam sealed to keep damp out of the joins.

 

This has been a right pain in the arse tbh. Much more involving than I'd first thought but it has all been caused by a water leak in the front footwell vents. It must have been leaking for a long time for the floor to get into that state. Not helped either by the factory fit Volvo floor trays as they hide the carpets so you can't see them getting wet. This was easily enough to condemn this car to the scrap heap I think, nobody in their right mind would have paid to get this fixed, the car just isn't desirable enough to be worth the effort and expense.

Luckily however there's nobody here of sound mind, so it's now fixed properly regardless!!

 

All that's left to do (tomorrow hopefully) is put the seat mount back in place and weld it back to the floor, repair the internal crossmember where I had to cut it away and give the whole lot a coat of paint. I'll be using some black stonechip paint on this which should keep it sound for years to come. Then of course reassemble all the interior I had to strip out.

No pics yet unfortunately as I was on a roll today getting this done but I'll get some tomorrow before I paint it all.

 

Once this is done I'll just need to put a new number plate on the front as the old one is broken in half and then it should be good for an MOT.

Welding the battery tray can be done later as it's not an MOT issue yet.

[rml2345]

Impressive list of fettlement so far and the interior looks a damn site better after the scrub. The leaky sunroof seems to have turned into a right nightmare but it's good to see one getting repaired rather than sacked off, particularly as 740s seem to be getting rarer now.

The horns are mounted underneath the battery tray in a place that seems ideal for them to rot so when you're doing the repair it might be worth relocating them. That and the captive bolt they mount to usually shears anyway.

[Split_Pin]

Isn't it always the way when you investigate rust! I'm impressed with your mojo on this and I'm glad to see this car being saved. It appears that you have rebuilt most of the underside!

[danthecapriman]

Isn't it always the way when you investigate rust! I'm impressed with your mojo on this and I'm glad to see this car being saved. It appears that you have rebuilt most of the underside!

Your not far off! Most of the floor area on the passenger side has been either cleaned up or replaced. The other side is perfectly fine.

It was all caused by the water leak. It's leaked in through the front passenger footwell vent and just filled up the passenger side floors, the other side was saved by the transmission tunnel acting like a dam stopping the water getting to the other side.

 

Should be done today, I'll get some pics up later.

[Dick Cheeseburger]

Great to read that this old tank is getting some much deserved tlc. Have you injected some sort of rust preventative into the box areas you've welded, or are they all flat panels?

[danthecapriman]

And... it's finished!

 

I did the last bit of welding this morning, one small section on the side of the chassis leg. It's all been seam welded in, then given a good coat of zinc paint and then seam sealer. While I was making up the repair panels I've also painted the back sides of anything that can't be gotten to after it's welded in, just for extra protection.

Most of the panels are single skin pieces to the floorpan but there are some box section and double skin parts too.

I didn't bother grinding down the welds inside the car. It would have made loads of mess to clean up later and since you can't see them under the carpets I decided it was pointless. The welds under the car were quickly flatted down with the grinder and flap disc though.

Once the seam sealer and zinc paint were dry I replaced a few patches of the original bitumen sound deadening with some similar self adhesive stuff I had left over from something else. It probably won't matter much but since I had it laying around I used it!

After that went in I gave the inside surfaces a coat of black stonechip paint for extra protection.

Then the reassembly. The whole floorpan was hoovered out then the sound underlay pads went back down. Cables were all tucked back into place and tied back as required along the inner sill tops. Then the carpets went back in followed by the plastic trim panels and the seat. The seat lined up perfectly with the seat mount that had to be cut out so that's obviously still all square as it should be. I'd worried the bolt holes wouldn't line up after it had been moved but no problems!

Everything's now back in the car and the interior hoovered out again to get rid of any grime and dust and it's looking fab! Seems a bit annoying in a way that you do all that cutting and welding and now it's all hidden under the interior!

 

IMG_0421 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

Front floorpan repairs. They were butt jointed into the floorpan using thick steel once the rusty bits were cut out. The black strip is the new bitumen sound deadening pad.

 

IMG_0422 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

The underside of the rear floorpan and seat mount area. All zinc painted and seam sealed up. I've put the paint and seam sealer on nice and thick to try to keep any rust at bay.

[danthecapriman]

IMG_0424 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

I've painted on some rust converter onto any surface rust I found too, may aswell since everything's out!

 

IMG_0425 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Interior going back in starting with tying the wiring back down and the thick underlay pads.

 

IMG_0426 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Rear carpets back in.

 

IMG_0428 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Job jobbed! Seat back in and all the annoying brittle plastic trim back in.

 

IMG_0429 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

IMG_0430 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Finally gave the underside a good couple of coats of black stonechip to match the rest of the underside. Should last years now!

[danthecapriman]

Great to read that this old tank is getting some much deserved tlc. Have you injected some sort of rust preventative into the box areas you've welded, or are they all flat panels?

Yep, all box sections or hidden rear faces of any new metal has been painted with zinc paint before being welded in then soaked in Dynax S50 cavity wax afterwards. Anything visible inside on the floorpan or under the car has been black stonechip painted. I've also flooded all the seams inside the car with wax and left it to soak in and drip down through the sill seam.

 

Finally for now.

IMG_0427 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

Comparison between front seats.

The passenger seat has had a good clean and leather feed. It's looking and feeling much nicer now and shows how dirty and dry the drivers seat is.

[Rusty_Rocket]

Really nice work going on here - she'll last for years now

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Fantastic work DTCM!!!!

[danthecapriman]

Thanks guys!

 

One thing this has taught me - what a complete bastard these cars are if you want to take the interior apart. Everything seems to hold everything else in! To take one bit of plastic trim out you've got to undo several other bits either side of it just to free the bit you want.

Most of the trim in this car has gotten very brittle too, it's a job in itself trying not to break any of it.

 

MOT will be booked in tomorrow btw!