Brakes question please

[Stanky]

Following the recent MOT on the Saab, it was brought to my attention that there wasn't much meat left on the passenger side rear brake pads. Since these were only replaced ~8 months ago I was somewhat peeved by this fact, but fact it was.

 

So, I decided that really I ought to replace the discs at the same time as the ones fitted had seen better days and were fancy cross-drilled and grooved affairs which in their old age had become rather abrasive, probably shortening the lifespan of the average pad yet further.

 

This was completed on thursday evening, I replaced the pads, wound back the piston with Doobie's wind-back tool, fitted new discs, lubed the sliders havign removed the rubbers and cleaned the corrosion off the holes they live in with a drill-mounted wire brush and put it all back together. Friday I was driving to work and noticed that the car wasn't pulling as well as it normally did, pulled into a pez station to fill up and found that the driver side was incredibly hot and was emitting quite a bit of smoke. "Oh Dear" I said, cryed off work and drove slowly home.

 

I took it over to see my wife's uncle who diagnosed that the handbrake was binding on a bit, probably as a result of not winding the piston back in a 'full' click, but that as I'd only done 15 or so miles, albeit at 70mph, the disc and pad hadn't suffered too badly. He fixed it by pushing the piston back in again and using the handbrake several times as well as pushing on the brake pedal.

 

Today I took it for a fast run on the motorway, and checked the wheel as soon as I pulled off and it was normal temperature, "oh good" I said, however when I got home - about 5 miles in stop-start traffic with some 40mph bits included the wheel felt very warm again, much warmer than the passenger side one. No smoke, but it smelled hot. I fetched the jack, jacked the car up and with the handbrake off I spun the wheel - which rotated absolutely fine. Spinning it by hand it rotated about 2 full turns before stopping, as I'd expect. I tried the same on the other side and it was pretty much exactly the same story - 2 full turns then stop.

 

Should I be concerned about how hot the wheel got? It was noticably warmer than the passenger side and did smell a bit of hot brakes, but I might be just being hyper-sensitive now. It seemed to be fine after the 70mph run of about 5 miles, whereas previously it was too hot to touch the wheel and stank of burnt brake pad, with a bit of smoke for good measure

 

Have I missed something vital here or am I just being hyper sensitve? It doesn't pull to one side, but I doubt it would anyway as its a rear wheel.

[Tamworthbay]

Could be a flexi nose beginning to break down internally, or just a slightly sticking piston, either way it needs sorting.

[sierraman]

Could likely be a partially seized caliper. Once these start playing up they are shot, I've wasted time in the past unseizing them with WD40, you are best getting an exchange caliper.

[danthecapriman]

Wts^

 

Sounds like the calliper starting to stick. I've had them do this before, sometimes you can work them free and it'll work for a while but they do end up doing the same again eventually.

I'd replace the calliper personally.

[stripped fred]

The front o/s caliper on my mr2 does this. I've been freeing it off every year for the mot but it could really do with replacing.

[dollywobbler]

WD40 has no place near any moving parts of a brake caliper. That'll just bugger up the seals and cause more issues.

 

What did you use to lube the sliders? I've successfully lubed sticky sliders before now (XM before I managed to source new sliders). Piston issues are more problematic. If the piston has begun to corrode, then it is fit only for the bin.

[r.welfare]

Another vote for replacing the caliper. My brother had exactly the same symptoms on his 3 series. I tried changing the rear pads, working the piston in and out and lubing the sliders. Made no difference and it chewed the pads on one side in less than 5000 miles.

 

Try Brakes International, their prices are competitive and their service is good.

[Stanky]

Thanks guys, I suspected as much but wasn't sure so thought I'd ask for second opinion here.

 

Sliders were lubed with Brembo silicone grease which I had left over from a brake overhaul kit previously so (I think) the correct stuff. Sliders slide fine, but I suspect its the piston which is on its way out.

 

Is it safe/advisable to replace just one caliper or should I do both? I'm hesitating because the reason the brakes were overhauled in the first place is the OTHER side was eating the pads, so I'm leaning towards doing both as the other side is iffy anyway. Its behaving now, but as per danthecapriman above, it is just prolonging the inevitable?

[Stanky]

Another vote for replacing the caliper. My brother had exactly the same symptoms on his 3 series. I tried changing the rear pads, working the piston in and out and lubing the sliders. Made no difference and it chewed the pads on one side in less than 5000 miles.

 

Try Brakes International, their prices are competitive and their service is good.

 

Monsignor Welfare - can you help my tiny brain understand the BI website? So if I select this:

 

http://brakeparts.co.uk/#!/shop/SAAB/9-3/02-/9-3%201.8%20&%202.0%20inc%20TURBO/Rear%20-%20Brake%20Calipers%20and%20Wheel%20cylinders/BCA3096B

 

Does this mean that for £56.26 + delivery I get everything I need (for one side)? or do I also need to buy the other bits like a handbrake kit, bleed nipple, or do they just offer these bits in case you just needed part of the kit and not the whole thing?

 

I'm looking at getting both rear caplier kits for about £120 (very reasonable - I expected to pay that per caliper plus surcharge) but I'm worried I'm missing something here! Bigg Red want £99 each which is what is making me doubt myself.

 

Thanks!

[r.welfare]

My brother's BMW needed only the caliper so I think you will be ok, the only other thing required (aside from a set of pads - the disc was saveable) was a pad wear warning light cable. No surcharge to pay. We got our trusted garage (who picked up the caliper was buggered on the MOT anyway) to do it, I'm not a big fan of brake jobs where bleeding fluid is required, but I'll happily change discs and pads.

 

Tip - narrow down the model number then look on eBay. Brakes International list them there and they are usually cheaper than their own website.

[sierraman]

I'd just replace the side that's defective. Its not like replacing pads or shockers.

[danthecapriman]

Changing just the one calliper is fine.

Depending on price, I'd consider doing both if there's a question about the other one possibly playing up. Otherwise it's sod's law you'll fix one then find the other side starts causing trouble a few miles later. Of course if they're expensive to replace then try just changing the one and see how you go.

[hauserplenty]

Replace them both. I always replace pads, rotors, and/or calipers on both sides of any car. That way it's fixed and you won't have to worry.

[Stanky]

Ok another question now! Brake Intl want £125 delivered for 2 rear calipers plus fittings, and can deliver on tuesday.

 

ECP have 2 calipers locally for £175, but £73 of this is surcharge, so overall works out to be £102 and I could get them today.

 

I've never dealt with ECP parts that have surcharges on them before, how quickly to you get your money back after you've dropped off the old parts? Do ECP calipers come with the myriad bits and bobs which Brakes International send, or is it literally a piece of metal in a box, requiring me to re-use bits of the current setup?

 

Will I need new bleed nipples? Will I need new sliders?

 

Sorry for the simpleton questions - I want to make sure I am back up and running as soon as possible so if I'm going to order stuff I want to make sure I get everything I need in one go!

[Kiltox]

Refund of the surcharge is instant when you take the old ones back

 

Fullness of the kit varies, suggest going along and looking at them. Bleed nipples will definitely be new, sliders might need to be reused

[Stanky]

Bit the bullet and fitted new calipers to both sides on the back, was a lot easier than I expected (it took me less time than it did to replace the pads and discs and wind in the old calipers) and has highlighted that the brake fluid is a bit iffy so thats gone on the to-do list as well.

 

Brakes are now operating as they should with no overheating. ECP refunded me the surcharge instantly and didn't even bother to check what was in the boxes - I could have half filled them with gravel and got my money back.

 

The calipers had everything fitted except the sliders which I re-used as they were in good shape anyway. I'm should have bought shares in Pagid, the braking system is now all-pagid apart from the front calipers, which will probably get miffed and b0rk themselves now.

 

Thanks for the advise chaps, was quite daunting before I began but was actually a fairly straightforward task.