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Rainagain's S80, now FOR SALE, now only £749! Roffle?

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So far I've only used the bluetooth to stream music from my phone and it works really well. You just change the source on the factory stereo to cd changer then the up down track buttons change the track. However I have one problem with the wiring, the unit is powered by the ignition controlled feed whilst the factory radio can also be powered up by having the key on the first (aux) position, the position just before ignition on. so if you turn the key to aux, the factory radio turns on and says 'cd error', if you then turn the key further to turn the ignition on it still won't see the unit.

 

If you turn the key quickly from off to ignition on. both the factory radio and the unit power up at the same time and work ok together. So I've got some options:

 

A: do nothing and just turn the key quickly

B. check the unit's current draw and if it's low just connect it to the permanent 12v

C. try and find a wire powered from the aux key position and power the unit from this.

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I have now changed the ATF in the 850 and have come to the conclusion that the best way is to draw as much out as the Pela pump can get (handily this turned out to be exactly 5 litres), refill and drive for a couple of days then repeat a couple of times.

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Thanks for the tip, would you mind answering these questions:

 

How did you use the pela pump? Did you just stick it down the dipstick hole?

Did you use genuine Volvo atf or something else? For my car I read that people have used a Vauxhall equivalent as its lots cheaper or ordered it in bulk off ebay. Both make me a bit nervous.

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Is it a non geartronic box? If so it should be an Aisin Warner AW50/55SN. There will be a plate on the box to confirm the model number. OIL TYPE IS VERY IMPORTANT in this box, the V70 I had year ago had a fluid change at a crap garage that used universal fluid and by the time I drained and changed the box just over 1k later, it was already brown and stinky.

 

Don't undo the bolt on the top of the bell housing and fill it through there, as you WILL lose third gear as a result, as I learned that is what the garage did wrong.

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The Pela pump goes down the dipstick tube, no spillage at all. To refill it I stuck a funnel in the dipstick tube.

I just used generic Dexron III ATF, my gearbox is old enough not to need the posh stuff.

 

You can borrow my Pela pump if you want. It's great for engine oil changes too. It's not really any quicker but it's much cleaner and easier, and often gets more oil out than the traditional method.

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I've used my pela oil extractor on my AW55 gearbox (same box as Volvo) equipped Laguna about 5 times now through the gearbox dipstick tube. Works extremely well. Used a Draper oil filler funnel thing with a pipe on to refill. Also worked well! Pics of the setup on my Laguna thread (that should really update).

 

Still working fine using the cheap Mannoil 3309 ATF you see on eBay. £50 for 5x4l containers of the stuff.

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The Volvo's been doing well transporting me in quiet comfort back and forward to work, however I can easily see in the works car park which spaces I normally park in. I think it's time I sorted this oil leak. The oil leak is mainly coming from the top of the engine, some googling suggests this is likely a blocked pcv system. To test this theory I have a rigged up a T piece from the breather hose on the top of the engine to a one way valve. That way if the crank case pressure is more than the pcv system can handle it will just be vented to atmosphere. The one way valve only needs a tiny bit of pressure to open.

 

With this in place today I cleaned the top of the engine and took it for a run. The oil is still leaking from the torq headed bolts on the top of the engine. These are ones under the plastic trunking in the pic. You can easily see the pool of oil surrounding them. Would I be able to remove the bolts with the leaks round them and put some silicon sealant on the threads? I'm not sure what their purpose is.

post-17353-0-33268300-1474143680_thumb.jpeg

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Was at my Dad's garage recently and got a look at the HBOL, the torq headed bolts are access plugs to check the tappets. I cleaned the engine top again last night and took this photograph this morning when I got to work. As you can see it's quite a pool of oil just for ~30 miles. I now think it's coming from the 10mm hex headed bolts that hold down the cam cover. I'm going take the two near the pool of oil out this lunch time and put some PTFE tape round the threads and put them back in. 

post-17353-0-98329800-1474357007_thumb.jpg

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Just nipped out and removed the two hex upper cover retaining bolts, the threads on both of them were dry, so I moved onto the torq headed plugs. The two I removed both had oil on the threads so I wrapped both in PTFE tape and put them back in. To get to the hex bolts I had to remove the coil pack, the spark plug is just about drowning in oil. I tired to soak up as much as I could with paper towel.

 

So fingers crossed when I get home tonight the top of the engine will be dry!

 

(live action shot below) 

post-17353-0-77030800-1474373188_thumb.jpg

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Wynns stop leak. Someone will be along in a moment to suggest you spent ££££ on doing it proper. I'd chuck caution to the wind and try a stop leak additive for what it's worth.

Thanks for the suggestion but I don't think this would help as there's no seals around the bolt heads

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Any more news on the coolant leak?

I got one of those leak detection kits from ebay with the UV dye, which was worth it just for the funky UV torch. Using it I found the leak is coming from the O rings on the heater matrix, which is a common problem. The water level has settled in the middle of the max/min marks on the header tank and since then its stopped leaking. So fixing it's now a low priority, especially as I need to work on why its chomping the outside edge off the front tyres.

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