Project Collectioneering - Moogs Mootahs

[The Moog]

Thanks Mr Q - I did wonder what they were on about.

 

 

Rimmer's just list exactly the same bolts so I assume stronger thread lock then is used on those patch bolts?

[Cavcraft]

Not successful

 

 

 

 

Fucksticks

 

Ahh man, feel sorry for you there. At least as you say it can be welded and lesson learnt though.

[Dave_Q]

Well, there are a variety of patch compounds the same as there are different threadlocks, so it's not necessarily that it's stronger, it's purely for ease of assembly.

 

The bolts come in from the manufacturer with the patch treatment already applied, it's dry until you tighten it up so it's clean and easy to handle, plus you get a controlled amount of compound vs a random size of blob with liquid threadlock.

[Isaac Hunt]

Simple answer is no.

That sounds like what I have done.

Can't find any heads so will see if I can get it welded up.

Bad luck chap. Well done of the bracket repair though

[spartacus]

You've already figured this out Moog I think but the camshaft is constantly holding at least two valves open to some extent. You've removed the u/s cam and all the valves have closed. Then you've offered up the new cam and tightened it down, it's begun to depress the cam followers on a couple of valves and started to open those valves. Unfortunately you haven't fitted the camshaft in the correct timed position relative to the crank/pistons and the other cam.

Next go you'll either have to pop the toothed pulley back on the end of the cam so you can correctly line up the timing marks, as if you were carrying out a belt swap, which you eventually will be, or use a dial guage to measure the cam lift in order to find the correct position.

Sincere apologies if I'm going over stuff you've already worked out or been told, I'd hate you to have another unsuccessful weekend!

From memory the head bolts are stretch bolts, which means that the clamping force they offer now that you've re-torqued them will be nowhere near the original, check in the manual, if they are stretch bolts then replace them.

Soz mate.

[The Moog]

Thanks Spartacus - once it was mentioned i assumed that was what had happened.

 

In my haste I had removed it all myself and not followed hbol process. Then I followed the hbol process to reinstall which is based on the fact you have followed their steps - #spoiler - I hadn't!

 

The timing belt was next on list. I had thought about doing it first but hadn't got the water pump yet.

 

Good point about headbolts. Will check a few get them changed. Better to find out now rather than later.

[The Moog]

Ever since I have got the 406 I have found it glacially slow. Serviced it, had a check of egr etc couldn't find anything.

 

Ordered a new MAF as mentioned above -£30 from eBay. Arrived today

 

Two minute job to swap it over. Always remember to swap the o ring

 

Took it out for a spin and flipping heck it goes. Result and virtual pint for those that said MAF

 

It feels like I have a new car.

 

Also in the post were the new rubber mounts for the engine cover. This quietens the diesel down a fair amount.

 

The old ones had the rubber shear from the nut. £2 delivered from hong Kong.

 

You can see the old ones on the end

 

 

Screwed in

 

Cover on and quiet again

[The Moog]

Nothing on TV so instead decided to crack on with rover.

 

Got the crank times correctly first.

 

I have mainly used this socket set - I think it is a Screwfix jobbie but does 99% if the jobs I need

 

Car up and on stands

 

Wheel arch liner to come off

 

Yum crispy. But just comes undone

 

Sump supported

 

Engine mount off

 

Then drive belt off - will need a new one after this.

 

 

Then timing covers off before reaching an impasse. The tensioner bolt just won't come undone. Even with rattle gun or breaker bar.

 

It is a Torx 50 head but won't budge.

 

Ran out of light and ideas. Gave up and going to Google.

[spartacus]

When you say it won't move with a breaker bar do you mean it won't move with you heaving on it as much as possible, or you stop because you think it might break?

[The Moog]

I probably was a little easy on it. It definitely is tight. I think whatever I do to get it off then it will need replacing.

 

Google seems to show that the tensioner pulley bolt is a pretty common one to be an arse to get off.

[spartacus]

Get a length of thick wall tube on the end of the breaker bar, obvs if something breaks then it wasn't my fault...

[Isaac Hunt]

Three things that often help, heat and force and impact.

 

Before you try more force, try some impact. If it is countersunk, give it a whack in the head with a hammer and punch, but not enough to close up the hex key sloct if it has one.

 

If it is a next head bolt, try the whack on the head with a hammer and punch. Try the whack on the side with a hammer and chisel to try and get it to turn.

 

Heat might not be an option.

 

Then try more force.

[The Moog]

Will give it all a go when get a chance.

 

Another question

 

This is the timing belt tensioner Rimmer bros list for the car (and what I have bought)

 

this is what is on the car

 

 

And in Haynes

 

 

They are quite different. Trawling eBay yields similar to RM tensioners. Am I missing something?

[spartacus]

Is that a torx on yours, or just a fucked up allen head? No wonder you don't feel like leaning on it much, it looks pretty shonky.

Sorry to be on such a downer Moog!

[Noel Tidybeard]

isn't the one in your pic a spring loaded one? and you use allen key clockwise to take off tension from belt then relase anti-clock to add tension to belt?

[DeeJay]

All 3 look different.

[Matty]

Moog if it's hex not torx it will round off with too much force. Heat is always the answer get this shit with capheads at work all the time. Heat the head up cherry (if you've only got a blow torch this will take fecking ages!) As it cools crack it with a hex socket on a strong arm. The heat will do two things. If it's corrosion on the threads the heat will make the bolt expand then contract as it cools breaking the bond of corrosion. If it's thread lock the heat will melt it. Either way it'll piss out after warming

[Matty]

Edit just looked back and seen its torx. Even better cos they don't round as readily. Still warm it though

[The Moog]

Today I went to pick up my new MGF.

 

A kind gent called hairnet offered his services. When I accepted I didn't realise he was going to start the day in the south of England, before travelling up via Catsinweder to Hairnet towers before chez Moog.

 

The plan

couldn't argue with that and thus plan went into action

Journey was uneventful and before too long reached Warninglights abode in beautiful scenery.

 

Car collected and headlining fixed*

 

Set off with just a pez stop on the way.

 

M6 was chocka so went back via a roads getting give the new car the beans. It is a really composed drive and handles reasonably well.

 

On way home this also occured

 

stopped at some lights and got a cryptic message

I looked up to see

 

Back home in about 2 hours the car performed perfectly. We passed a horrible accident on the way home. Looked like it had just happened with the car on its roof - hope everyone is ok.

 

 

It is pretty quiet at 70 with the hard top on and a lot less shaky than the mx5.

 

 

So that takes me to 6 cars which is two too many - the mgf just doesn't have a role into be fleet.

 

It's already on gumtree and will be going on eBay in a day or so.

 

Any shiters want a great two seat sports car with a hard top, wave £350 in my direction and it is all yours.

[hairnet]

sell it without the hardtop for more ££££

 

much like the mx5 ones theyre worth coin

 

did you tell them about the seicento you couldnt get round on the a65

[hairnet]

And this is what he meant about Friday and sat

 

didnt take 9.5 hours either

 

7.5 if that

[warninglight]

Good to meet you both today!

 

And glad it made it back in one piece, I was starting to count how many hours it had been since I had heard from you, with the previous owner's "ALWAYS CHECK THE COOLANT" ringing in my ears.

 

It's not the worst little car, but, like you, I'd be keeping the Mazda.

[The Moog]

Good to meet you both today!

 

And glad it made it back in one piece, I was starting to count how many hours it had been since I had heard from you, with the previous owner's "ALWAYS CHECK THE COOLANT" ringing in my ears.

 

It's not the worst little car, but, like you, I'd be keeping the Mazda.

Sorry I should have rung three times! I ended up coming back and going to the gym (just to take missus Moog out in it - she said it was better than the mx5)

 

Provisional dibs has been called on the little sports car.

[Bucketeer]

I'm loving the new Autoshite Laurel and Hardy.

[The Moog]

Dibs have been uncalled on the MGF so any interested parties feel free to send carrier pigeon or PM.

[The Moog]

Forgot to add this piece of genius

[The Moog]

Mgf provisionally sold.

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

fuxstix....... it's gone - before I got here - it's available again and gone again while I catch up on the grumble thread...... 

which now needs updating as I missed this - twice in 24hrs!

[The Moog]

Sorry but should be collected on Wednesday.

[The Moog]

Squeezed in a couple of Rover jobs today without screwing things up.

 

First up I dropped off the camshaft housing to a local metal fabricators. They make industrial stuff but we're happy to have a go at this.

 

You can see the crack here

 

They should be able to grind it open a little and then weld it up. I will need to clean up the camshaft face so that it can run smoothly.

 

Next job was to flush the engine block on the 800.

 

Thermostat removed - lovely colour

Hose stuffed in

Toffee water out

 

Let it flow.. getting better

 

 

Miles better

 

Hopefully that is all the gunk out of the engine block.

 

Tomorrow I hope to get on with that timing bolt.