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Moogs Motahs - Stud Muffins


The Moog

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Saab fixing part twelvety

New shiny bits
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Cutting off the old exhaust damaged the O2 sensor.
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A new one came but I stupidly cut the plug off the wrong one, requiring so electrical sticking back together
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Slow being built back up including new turbo
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Then shiny bits part Deux
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All strapped to the car
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Recap
It has got
New turbo
New downpipe
New exhaust
New track rod ends
New uprated drop links
New ball joint
New JR air filter
New oil and water feed lines to turbo


Two of the exhaust studs have snapped in the head, but going to chance a MOT on Friday.

It will need the head taking off at some point to deal with the studs - probably a good idea to uprate the fuel injectors at the same time.

Going forward it needs
MOT
Tracking
Exhaust studs sorting
Crank shaft oil seal replacing
Springs and dampers

Much thanks to Northern Monkey for doing most of the work and tightening/untightening my mistakes :-)

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16 hours ago, jonathan_dyane said:

You can drill out the studs in situ if you make up a couple of drill guides to slip inside the manifold and use one of those 90 degree drill accessories. I would recommend using left handed drill bits ideally and it should make it unscrew on the 2nd hit.

That's good to know.  

The fact we have mostly had it apart and that it has a healthy oil leak from the crankshaft seal, probably means it is easier to take head off. We can then renew the timing chains & guides, then get a local place who charges £30 or so to fix it. 

 

 

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13 minutes ago, Wgl2019 said:

Big fpr and stage 3 noobtune?

FPR is sitting here waiting to be fitted :-) 

 

Although Mr Monkey was telling we might as well do it properly and stick in some big green giant injectors. 

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6 minutes ago, The Moog said:

FPR is sitting here waiting to be fitted :-) 

 

Although Mr Monkey was telling we might as well do it properly and stick in some big green giant injectors. 

Aiui you can do one or the other, either way gives sufficient squirt! I don't know if both would bee too much (Too much????? Never too much!!!!!!)

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Aiui you can do one or the other, either way gives sufficient squirt! I don't know if both would bee too much (Too much????? Never too much!!!!!!)
The fpr is a bit of a fudge (saw a Noobtune discussion on UkSaabs) but is sufficient if not going over 290ish.
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Went to take the car out yesterday but kept blowing off the lower turbo hose.

To get access had to whip off the top boost pipe

Time to get put the hose clip set
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They are very good as they have a groove for the small tang
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Jacked up
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Pulled the old hose clip off
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New one was slipped on with my special tool
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I noticed a damp spot -

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I had to loosen then tightened the bottom water hose to turbo -which seemed to have fixed that bit.

Toddled off to shop at BQ - onto motorway - whoosh then stalling. Flipping boost hose is off again

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Not ideal. 20 minutes of fiddling including pouring water over the turbo and exhaust, got me back running.

Did suffer a little though - managed to get burns from the massive downpipe.
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Stronger hose clamps ordered.

I have also found a boost leak - a vacuum line was missing 8d6477177ed62b8b4ec847c4e6cc0428.jpg

So even moah boost might be available

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50 minutes ago, jonathan_dyane said:

Great works!

Rear discs undersized wtf?

I had some discs come with the car that I fitted - it must be that they are the non aero discs. 

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  • The Moog changed the title to Moogs Motahs - Wobbygong throwing a wobbly

That's a good tip.

I will probably end up going for some nice uprated ones when o get a chance.

Today's object of affection was Wobbygong the motorhome.

It has been a right pain in the bum, with idling then cutting out. Throwing error codes and putting itself into limp home mode.

Turning off the van meant it ran on, then stalled.

I had fitted the diesel heater with a feed from the top of the fuel pump, so that was first port of call. A replacement fuel pump didn't sort it, so tested it by running new fuel lines - still no cigar.

Northern monkey dropped by on Monday with his magic box of code reading tricks. Codes were pressure regulator and third piston error.

It looked like the van wasn't self stopping, but when turning off the key was cutting the power to the low pressure pump. This in turn was triggering an error code as it ran out of fuel pressure.

Some fiddling and tapping the fuel pump with hammer got it back up and running.

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All fab until today when it started again. I had ordered a pressure regulator so decided to swap them out.
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If you haven't got an cordless wrench I can't recommend them highly enough. Get bolts out with limited room is where it excels

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Regulator out and first issue is that they are different electrical connectors
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Looking at the old one it is missing an O ring and the green o ring looks worn
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Swapped them over from the new one, gave it a clean up and reinstalled it. Gave the connectors a good dousing in contact cleaner.

Starts and turns off fine. Fingers crossed that has sorted it short term.

Another life changing thing learnt today (from YouTube of course) - got dirty/greasy/dieselly hands - pour cooking oil on them, then run them on a towel. Gets them so clean it is insane - plus doesn't dry out your skin!


Tomorrow jobs is to build a bed base and give the van a trundle out to check it all works.

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8 hours ago, The Moog said:

T
Another life changing thing learnt today (from YouTube of course) - got dirty/greasy/dieselly hands - pour cooking oil on them, then run them on a towel. Gets them so clean it is insane - plus doesn't dry out your skin!


Tomorrow jobs is to buy some new towels

FTFY

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Went away at the weekend in the van - getting there was fine until just as we pulled into the campsite.

So in front of everyone we proceeded to breakdown.... What a way to start the weekend.

Luckily missus Moog is a hardened shite wife, so got out and pretended not to be with me.

Limped it to the pitch and ignored it.

A weekend of running through the bluebells and long walks soon ended.
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Come home time, some percussive approach was applied and the van started running. If it was kept at high revs, without idling then it seemed ok.

Nursed the van home only for it to cut out pulling into drive. Still at least home.

Plan was to take van back to dealer at weekend.

Last night browsing the internet (not that part you mucky pup) - I found this post on a rover 75 forum which describes my symptoms exactly. I have got the Bosch CP1 pump, which runs on after the key is turned off. This this causes limp home mode and at idle cuts out (all written out for future internet travellers searching for it)

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Like an excited kid waiting for Christmas, once the sun scraped across the horizon I was out like a shot.

Tools assembled
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I stripped the regulator and gave it a good seeing too, filling all its cavities with my stream of powerful liquid.

All holes explored, with it dripping wet from both sides, it was pushed back in. (Told you were a mucky pup)

And......


It worked. Van starts and stops on the key - symptoms gone. Joy.

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  • The Moog changed the title to Moogs Motahs - Sensuous fiddling
  • 4 weeks later...

With the Saab needing some fiddling due to leaky turbo (don't buy a maxspeedingrods turbo!) And blowing exhaust manifold, the only sensible thing is to find out why the smart was grating under braking.

Pass side was grimy
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New bits fitted and some swearing

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Drivers side might be the cause of the noise
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New bits put back on, but then I noticed the wheel cylinder is leaking.

So got some on order. a9af4ccb80123daeb81cc8fec1d25a02.jpg

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Back at the smart today.

First up was new driveshafts - well old ones with new abs rings. Seemed an easier fix than taking off old ones and replacing the abs rings.

As they come
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Some chassis paint applied
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Next up was the rear leaking wheel cylinders

With the Smart it is easier to whip the front off to get at master cylinder.
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First side wasn't too hard - all bolts came apart easily and had the new cylinder fitted pretty swiftly. Forgot to do photos except at end
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Passenger side was a different kettle of fish. I was hoping to get away with just a bleed on it but on closer inspection found the cylinder leaking as well
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The hard line going into the old cylinder started to round. Plan B was to take the whole line off from the flexi
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Still no cigar so applied heat
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Still nothing. Quicker and easier to make a new brake line and fit it. Will then rebleed the system - hopefully the front nipples won't be a pain 4cded475b21ca907c7910213b8cf6d59.jpg

MrMonkey is dropping over his flaring tool tomorrow so I can get the lines run. Tempted to replace the one on the other side as well whilst I am there.

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  • The Moog changed the title to Moogs Motahs - Smarty Pants

A delivery from Northern Monkey and Amazon meant that brakes could be added back to the Smart

First up I swapped over the small driveshaft whilst waiting

Got the big boy out
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It was mainly due to having no brakes to lock up the wheel.

I think the problem with abs has been found

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All back together and new brake line run
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Then bled the brakes twice to get a decent pedal feel.

Nice thing with the smart is when it comes to putting the front back on
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Drives ok aside from a bit it rear brake judder - I hope they will bed in. It has got new rear cylinders, shoes and drums so shouldn't have to fiddle with them again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today's fiddling mainly consisted of fitting some electrical stuff to camper

One of the slightly annoying things is that if you leave the van hooked up at home it charges the leisure battery, but not the main van battery.

I did buy a solar panel but it is only for topping it up rather than charging. Seeing as on site I will be on 220v and at home can plug in to the mains easily - I needed to rectify it.

Browsing the internet I found a box of tricks that remedies the situation. It takes a positive from leisure battery and once that is fully charged it then charges van battery.

The unit itself is small and requires + to leisure battery, + to van battery and ground.

After some flipflopping, I decided to mount the box in the van engine bay near the battery, only requiring a long + to leisure battery.

First up was finding a way through the bulkhead - there was a small rubber grommet that I could poke a hole in.

Take under dash apart
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To get through the grommet I used a metal BBQ skewer with cable attached
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Jobs a goodun
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Run the lead under the trim carefully
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The leisure battery is under the drivers seat.
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It got a 7a inline fuse fitted then onto the second terminals of the leisure battery.

Up front I ran the van connection through a 7a fuse to the van battery, and into the multi connection point
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Ground was run to the negative of battery.

The install is a little untidy at moment - I will tidy it all up once I have proved it works.

Currently the van is on charge and nothing has caught fire... So fingers crossed it has worked.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You know the old saying that don't work with animals or children - I guess the same sort of saying is don't do your own exhaust or tinting.


Admittedly your exhaust is unlikely to disgrace Valerie singleton by doing a massive dump, but.perhaps I should have heeded.

Aero estate suffers a bit of being hot in the back when carting dogs around. So of course it needs tinting like a bad boy.

I ordered pre cut tint from eBay - that should* make things easier


Friday dawned... And of course it was pissing down. Northern Monkey kindly offered me a small corned of his garage to get it done


I rock up, drink coffee, then get film out


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Hold on - NM wants to show off, he loves wielding his massive Lance which apparently leaves a white sheen no matter where pointed.... I acquiesce

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Hosed off
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Tint was a bit fiddly. You put the back screen one on the outside then gently using het gun you warm it to match the curve of window. I am far too impatient - apply fluid , apply heat. Backing paper off then slap it on.

It mostly went ok - definitely a 20footer

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The rear corners are utter fuckers
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It will do. Definitely makes car cooler for dogs.


Next up - change turbo, then sort exhaust leak.

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  • The Moog changed the title to Moogs Motahs - Stud Muffins

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