Dollywobbler's Dreadful Dyane - Back on the road

[dollywobbler]

Headbolts need retorqueing perhaps 1000 miles after everything has been apart. Remember to open up the valve clearances by the necessary amount if the head is taken up a bit. I slacken all 3 right off before redoing, for reasons I can't remember. What valve clearances do you run, Ian?

 

The German market cars had a little addition to prevent a leaking head to barrel joint from letting combustion gases into the heater air. Can't remember what that was either - most annoying.

 

I tend to run 0.25 inlet, 0.30 exhaust. Think 0.20 and 0.25 was the factory suggestion, but that was before unleaded fuel. Can't see how anything could stop the head leak fumes getting into the heater air. Later 2CVs did have rubber-coated rocker covers to cut down on noise. 

[dollywobbler]

Hmmm. It is quite tappy at that! Will see if it quietens down when I do them again (and head nuts) at 1000 miles. You can hear that it's tappy now, because I've refitted the exhaust, fan and alternator. 

[forddeliveryboy]

I do it by feel but it's usually around 0.2/0.25, think the factory suggested even less than that. I give the alternator side exhaust valve slightly more than the other side, since it usually runs a wee bit hotter because less air - that will always be the one which nips up first, otherwise. SLC settings are bomb-proof and would cope with an Alpine pass sans fan but obi reduce the risk of nipping up if you like to extend service intervals to 20k, at the expense of most people thinking you've a worn engine.

 

Also plugs which are one cooler than suggested - I gave up on NGKs since so many were faulty, using Denso now - superb. 

[Chris2cv]

I have just read through this thread and am really impressed by the progress.  While the 2cv and Dyane are quite simple, I am remarkably lacking in any skills to do this sort of thing, and really respect those that can. It is great to hear one of them running, as my own 2cv has not run since June and I have not had time to fix it. BUT, feeling inspired now, I am going down to my parents house to have a go at the weekend. Can't take it out, as it I on sorn now, but getting the thing running will be big progress. Wish me luck!

[forddeliveryboy]

Probably the biggest skill working on the top end of these engines is not stabbing yourself on the end of a heater cable or some other sharp thing - after that, it's all a matter of using heat to release manifold nuts and putting stuff back in the right order and not damaging the pushrod tubes when the heads are off. Not stripping tapped threads into the alloy heads and crankcase is soon learned - the oil filler neck's about the trickiest thing to put back, if you can do that then you'd be fine!

[dollywobbler]

Indeed. It's all remarkably straight-forward. I've never changed pistons before. It's easy! Biggest danger is over-torquing something and stripping a thread. Aluminium is soft!

 

Turns out I've misremembered the valve clearances and have set them similar to what the racers use. Original factory settings are 0.15 inlet, 0.20 exhaust, so it's recommended to take them to 0.20 and 0.25 for unleaded. Oh well. Perhaps I'll tighten them up come retorque time. 

 

Now aiming to have this back on the road for February. I need to make sure it's all in fine fettle and run in before a trip to Cambs in March.

[forddeliveryboy]

The pushrod seal tubes can be fine-tuned into position with a long screwdriver before the head is tightened on - can make the difference between almost leak-free and totally leak-free! 

[dollywobbler]

Had to be done. First drive since October!

[mrbenn]

Looks a bit post apocalyptic Mad Max-esqe!

[Sigmund Fraud]

A true "umbrella on wheels" - it looks remarkably lightweight, in an unsafe, fragile kind of way. Makes my Seicento seem like an S-Class !

 

They must be immense fun, shame they're so expensive nowadays.

[dollywobbler]

A true "umbrella on wheels" - it looks remarkably lightweight, in an unsafe, fragile kind of way. Makes my Seicento seem like an S-Class !

 

They must be immense fun, shame they're so expensive nowadays.

 

This one wasn't expensive...

[richardmorris]

This one wasn't expensive...

And look how well it's gone so far:-/

[dollywobbler]

And look how well it's gone so far:-/

 

Aye. I've spent almost £50 on it. 

[forddeliveryboy]

Not enough sound with this thread, both of you swearing and the flat twin running - with exhaust connected. I see that fan spinning and want sound! They're one of the true iconic sounds of the 70s, a properly perfectly designed little engine. I love'em.

 

Nasty to work on if you're used to Ford/Vauxhall/VW generics, until your brain reprogrammes itself. Then they're easy.

[Sigmund Fraud]

This one wasn't expensive...

 

RESTECP for finding it, nowadays it seems that even terminally rotten ones are fetching over £1000 

[dollywobbler]

Not enough sound with this thread. Both of you swearing and the flat twin running - with exhaust connected. I see that fan spinning and want sound! They're one of the true iconic sounds of the 70s, a properly perfectly designed little engine. I love'em.

 

Nasty to work on if you're used to Ford/Vauxhall/VW generics, until your brain reprogrammes itself. Then they're easy.

Video should be live tomorrow...

[dollywobbler]

[richardmorris]

Aye. I've spent almost £50 on it.

 

Hasn't been problem free is what I meant really

[dollywobbler]

True, though considering it got dragged out of a barn and then thrashed for 1000 miles around the country, I think it has done quite well for itself. And what problems it has had, a numpty like me has been able to fix.

[forddeliveryboy]

Good sounds! I was concerned your beard was going to look even more different as you leant over the engine to operate the throttle - that uncovered alternator pulley/belt wasn't far away! Those big engine fans have a large amount of 'suck' as the revs rise and can draw loose things into them from far and wide when spinning quickly. Even worse than a smelly heater, watching bits of beard fired up the inside of the screen or worse still, clogging up the cooling fins/oil cooler. 

[dollywobbler]

I concede it may be time for a trim...

[richardmorris]

Probably the biggest skill working on the top end of these engines is not stabbing yourself on the end of a heater cable or some other sharp thing - after that, it's all a matter of using heat to release manifold nuts and putting stuff back in the right order and not damaging the pushrod tubes when the heads are off. Not stripping tapped threads into the alloy heads and crankcase is soon learned - the oil filler neck's about the trickiest thing to put back, if you can do that then you'd be fine!

I used to use the old straws from bottles of wd40 on the ends of the heater wires, but following a tip now use bicycle brake cable caps.

 

This is lessons learned though- I have deep scars on both thumbs from the ends of the heater cables. For years I was convinced the damned car was carnivorous.

 

 

Oh and self - servingly DW if you'd like to put finger to keyboard for me sometime it'll all go in the Citroenian. I know it's unfair asking a professional journalist to write for free, but if you don't ask...I have nothing yet for March edition and am panicking!

[dollywobbler]

That's a tricky one to be honest as I'm already documenting the Dyane for paid media and 2CVGB. Sorry! Having been a registrar twice for 2CVGB, I do know what it's like filling pages.

[dollywobbler]

I was all set to refit the bodywork to the Dyane, but then I remember that someone kindly sent me this.

 

A nice, simple, points-assisted ignition set-up. I dug out my wire, had to resort to household connectors as I've lost my proper connectors, and had it up and running in no time. Result! I will do the wiring properly 'one day.'

 

However, as I can now disconnect the condenser, I had to remove the points box. Refitted it, grabbed the feeler gauges to check the gap and realised I'd forgotten what it should be. Now, at some point between this moment and checking the figure in the 2CVGB Members' Handbook (0.4mm for info), I put the feeler gauges down. Can I find them now? Can I f*ck. I was either standing in front of the car trying to remember the gap, or sitting inside looking up the information. So how can the gauges have sodding disappeared?!

 

I absolutely hate this, as I do it all of the time. Tools just go missing and HOURS are lost trying to remember where they are. Or that bit of something that might be handy for this job. Or the nuts, which I carefully placed over there. Didn't I? Oh. I didn't. Ugh.

[dollywobbler]

Dyane now looks like this.

 

Still needs wiring, bonnet release fitting and a few other bits, but the road isn't far away now! Maybe I'll wait until the rain stops though. Maybe that'll never happen...

 

By the way, I did find my feeler gauges. I think I need some new ones though...

[billyboy406v6]

Rain in Wales predicted to stop in early June for 24hrs and then piss down till October !

[dollywobbler]

Certainly raining plenty today! Sod it. Having got the Dyane working and even gone all luxurious and refitted the doors, I went for a spin up the driveway. Result? Soggy Dyane.

 

The bonnet was actually fitted for the drive, but removed because outside the garage, I saw a pretty.

 

Ah. Drat. That's a well-soaked chassis leg if ever I saw one.

 

I think it's rocker cover, possibly because the rubber seal inside it has about as much give in it as the metal its attached to. May have to actually buy some new ones. Or find my Blue hylomar for bodgery points. Can't be arsed to investigate today. 

[dollywobbler]

Have been flat out with work but sod it. I'm the boss, so I gave myself the afternoon off.

 

Almost entirely invisible there are the new and old oil feed pipes on top of the engine. Now fitted, now leak free and while I was at it, thought I might as well reset the valve clearances so it no longer sounds like the proverbial skeleton doing rather rude things in a tin which formerly may have contained biscuits. Got it running but then realised I needed tea, so I've stopped. I 'just' need to refit the entire front end again now. Given the weather forecast is utterly shit again, I don't think I'll bother rushing.

[dollywobbler]

I got the new oil feed pipe fitted the other day, and as ever, there were a few more tweaks required along the way - mostly fitting new air hoses, which is rarely fun. Steady improvement though! Still, I wasn't going to refit the bodywork until I was absolutely sure it was leak-free. So, naked hoon time again!

 

Razzed up the driveway a bit, let it idle for a goodly while and thank goodness, no leaks! So, bodywork back on.

 

Very pleased. Quite annoyed that it's a leap year though, as it means I have to wait another day before I can tax her again. Looking forward to a gentle hoon!

[ruffgeezer]

I do like the look of that, are you bored of it yet?