Project 1994 Rover 414SLi - Fin.

[320touring]

Billy will be greetin into his pint!

 

find another alloy so JohnK can have a set too

[Taff]

TADTS:  same PCD, slightly larger centre bore on the Vauxhall but that's not a worry and offset is similar enough that they clear everything and stick out just a little more than the steels.  Couldn't really ask for better on the fitment front.

 

my bold, isn't this the important bit? the centre bore is supposed to fit snug on the hub? Otherwise there is undue pressure on the wheel nuts?

[vulgalour]

Jury is out on that one.  Some say fit spigot rings, some say don't bother, some say all the nuns and kittens will die whatever I do.

[hairnet]

WOT NO floating roof any more?  

 

 

Anyone else thinking...

 

twisted fecker

[cms206]

WOULD.

 

Top work Angyl, looks ace. I really R8 these (sorry).

[Taff]

Jury is out on that one.  Some say fit spigot rings, some say don't bother, some say all the nuns and kittens will die whatever I do.

 

the fact that spigot rings even exist would indicate to me that there is a need for them.

 

As I recall (it was a few years ago, admittedly) the hub locates the wheel via the centre bore and the studs/nuts/bolts secure the wheel.

 

The adaptors I had years back to get from chevy wheels onto a Volvo axle had a spigot on them

[Lacquer Peel]

I saw some nice OE 3 spokes on a Toyota Yaris today, 4x100 PCD as well I think. If you can acquire those Vauxhall alloys for next to nothing more power to you.

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[Jim Bell]

I saw some nice OE 3 spokes on a Toyota Yaris today, 4x100 PCD as well I think. If you can acquire those Vauxhall alloys for next to nothing more power to you.

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

Were they not wheel trims?

[Jim Bell]

the fact that spigot rings even exist would indicate to me that there is a need for them.

 

 

 

Would sir care to purchase some of these?

They exist and therefor there is a need for them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

£50 please.

[vulgalour]

This job is dragging on so much now, it's pretty frustrating.  The parts order came in but it turned out the driveshaft oil seals couldn't be got so I ended up going to Rimmer Bros so I could get them delivered next day just to get this job over and done with.  So we're still not back on our wheels yet and I still can't try out the new clutch to find out if it's that or the gearbox or both that were actually at fault.

 

Anyway, we got on with what we could.  Mike has been trying to get the remains of the lower ball joints out of the hubs and it's been such a nuisance that we're taking the struts off to resolve it on the bench.  Another of those things that should have been super quick and has just dragged on because the usual methods just aren't working.  Instead, we got the new outer CV gaiters fitted, something that was made much easier by using the cone and the bench vice.

20150803-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

20150803-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

While Mike was doing that and some other jobs I got on with the bodywork side of things, namely trimming the grille to fit.  I'd also left the replacement bonnet latch soaking in some thinners to clean it up.  The original latch has a wired connection, we're not sure what that's for yet as we've not tested it but we're expecting it's for the alarm or to illuminate a bonnet open light on the dash, much like the boot has.  The new latch doesn't have this wiring.  Trimming the grille was pretty easy thanks to the bench grinder.

20150803-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Did some more work to the bonnet edge and after this shot I put on the primer which for some reason reacted and just peeled off.  I wasn't best pleased about this because it managed to react with everything on the metal and undid a lot of work.

20150803-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

So I cleaned it all back to bare metal and started again.  Fresh primer so I can find where to fill.

20150803-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I slapped a lot of filler on and took nearly all of it off again getting back to a smooth panel.

20150803-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Then put some more primer on, top coat and lacquer.  End result is reasonable if not perfect and will want polishing and whatnot to finish off properly.  It will do for now.

20150803-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The white trimmed grille was tidied up, primed, painted and lacquered.  It needs a polish much like the bonnet does but is perfectly respectable now.

20150803-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The old bonnet latch has a black plastic trim on it but when fitted to the new one it fouls the grille.  I left it off, no harm done.  Front of the car is much better, just needs a bonnet badge to finish it off properly.

20150803-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

[Jim Bell]

That front end looks 1 million times more amazing.  Well played.

[mrbenn]

Looks great Angyl, top work on the bonnet.

 

Do you need a bonnet badge? May have one.....

[vulgalour]

I think the squashed white Rover is providing one.  If it turns out it's not I'll give you a nudge, I do want one.

[KruJoe]

Here's the only one I can find now, it's from the other side of the Chompy Rover. I can't think where the two from the blue one went.
So with the two from the white one, that'll be a set of four.

I also went and had a look at the bonnet badge. It's still ok from six foot, but close up it does look like water has got in near the bottom somehow. If Mr_Benn's is any better, I'd go for that one.

 

[vulgalour]

Cheers, Joe  Over to you, MrBenn.

[vulgalour]

Why, car, why?

 

There wasn't going to be a second update on this today, but Mike and I were persuaded to return by my brother after we'd had something to eat and a bit of a sit down at home.  The passenger strut was removed when it was determined getting the remains of the balljoint stud out wasn't going to be possible in situ.  Happily, the suspension is in pretty good order and the strut tower is really clean.

20150803-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Track rod ends look fairly new and came apart quite easily - compared to everything else - which was a relief.

20150803-11 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

The springs too are in good order.  They're the wrong sort to chop being pig-tailed, so I'll have to buy some proper lowering springs when I want to lower it. That will definitely have to wait for there is no more money available to spend.

20150803-12 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

With the strut in the vice the leg was removed from the hub, which although difficult due to a fairly crusty bolt, wasn't impossible.  The goal here was to get the remains of the lower ball joint out of the hub and for that we needed to strip things down to the smallest we could.  Later the disc and caliper were also removed for ease of access.

20150803-13 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Even with three of us, various manual and power tools and lots of swearing we couldn't get this to budge at all.  Tomorrow both hubs are off to the local engineering company to get the bits out and if they can't do it then I need to find some new hubs.  This is all because we tried to undo some castle nuts that were nothing but balls of rust.  Lesson learned for the future:  leave well alone.

20150803-14 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

20150803-15 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Trying not to worry too much about this.  With a relevant hydraulic press we're hoping the stubs will just push out and everything can be bolted back together but what a nightmare it has turned into!  Mike and my brother were mostly fettling with mechanical things and trying to think of a way to get those stubs out so I turned my attention to the deep scratches on the boot lid.  After a few passes with the machine mop and cutting compound I'd got the worst of them out.  It will need some fresh lacquer at the least to get it all sorted, some of the scratches are really deep.

20150803-16 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

It's difficult to photograph, the red is really photogenic.  You can just about make out that I've done the right hand half of the boot lid but not the left as the left is slightly orange and more obviously scratched.  Flame Red is definitely up there in the Resale Red shades at being excellent at hiding damage and looking fantastic at its worst and being really stunning at its best.

20150803-17 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

With more time I got the left side of the boot done and it's now looking far more presentable and wearing a coat of polish.

20150803-18 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I'll work around the car with the machine mop to get the worst of the scratches out that I can.  This will help me pick and choose which bits of paint damage to deal with as I go, it's difficult to tell just which scratches are going to polish out and which ones need paint and lacquer to remedy properly.

 

Tomorrow I won't be working on the Rover but Mike will.  I've got to do just one job, I don't have the energy to be working at the unit and working at home on my regular job for another day, I'm just exhausted by it.

[KruJoe]

Well, you know where the Chompy hubs are if you need them...

 

Is that boot lid aligned properly Angyl?

 

PS - Get to bed!

[forddeliveryboy]

Flippin' eck. This is like Craptical Classics on speed. Definitely a better read!

 

Didn't oxy-acet sort the stuck bits in the hubs? Good work on the lack of grille. Have you ever replaced a radiator on a PSA turbot-diesel? Most post-80s design is crap in this respect.

[vulgalour]

Panel alignment is not this car's strong point.  Heat was tried and that didn't help beyond showing a ring on the smooth side where the two separate parts are.  When we said it was a rusty blob of rustiness it really was and now we're stuck with this rubbish.

 

Not sure if the ChompyRover hubs will work because that's an auto 1.6 where this is a manual 1.4 and the driveshafts are, I believe, different.  I'll give you a nudge to count splines and things if it does come to that, I really hope it doesn't.

[mrbenn]

Cheers, Joe  Over to you, MrBenn.

 

Some light marks but nothing to it really. Any good?

 

 

[KruJoe]

Certainly better than this one I have.

[vulgalour]

Yes please and thank you for the badge.  PM me the particulars.

[scaryoldcortina]

 

Get a big hammer (4lb or so) and hit straight down onto the retaining collar to release the stuck taper. It's the only way....

[oldcars]

Enjoying this. Its moving along so fast, would take me ages to get all this done. Enjoying the bodywork bits,

[mrbenn]

PM sent.

[twosmoke300]

 

Get a big hammer (4lb or so) and hit straight down onto the retaining collar to release the stuck taper. It's the only way....

Or put a big hammer on one side and use another one to hit the casting , provides a shock across the taper and it will fall out

[vulgalour]

@Scary and Twosmoke:  I'd forgotten about that method, thank you for the reminder.  I shall pass it along to Mike as I'm at my desk today rather than the unit.  Not sure we've got a hammer that hefty but I'm sure something could be fashioned to do the same task.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

This job is dragging on so much now, it's pretty frustrating.  The parts order came in but it turned out the driveshaft oil seals couldn't be got so I ended up going to Rimmer Bros so I could get them delivered next day just to get this job over and done with.  So we're still not back on our wheels yet and I still can't try out the new clutch to find out if it's that or the gearbox or both that were actually at fault.

 

Anyway, we got on with what we could.  Mike has been trying to get the remains of the lower ball joints out of the hubs and it's been such a nuisance that we're taking the struts off to resolve it on the bench.  Another of those things that should have been super quick and has just dragged on because the usual methods just aren't working.  Instead, we got the new outer CV gaiters fitted, something that was made much easier by using the cone and the bench vice.

 

 

While Mike was doing that and some other jobs I got on with the bodywork side of things, namely trimming the grille to fit.  I'd also left the replacement bonnet latch soaking in some thinners to clean it up.  The original latch has a wired connection, we're not sure what that's for yet as we've not tested it but we're expecting it's for the alarm or to illuminate a bonnet open light on the dash, much like the boot has.  The new latch doesn't have this wiring.  Trimming the grille was pretty easy thanks to the bench grinder.

 

Did some more work to the bonnet edge and after this shot I put on the primer which for some reason reacted and just peeled off.  I wasn't best pleased about this because it managed to react with everything on the metal and undid a lot of work.

 

So I cleaned it all back to bare metal and started again.  Fresh primer so I can find where to fill.

 

I slapped a lot of filler on and took nearly all of it off again getting back to a smooth panel.

 

Then put some more primer on, top coat and lacquer.  End result is reasonable if not perfect and will want polishing and whatnot to finish off properly.  It will do for now.

 

The white trimmed grille was tidied up, primed, painted and lacquered.  It needs a polish much like the bonnet does but is perfectly respectable now.

 

The old bonnet latch has a black plastic trim on it but when fitted to the new one it fouls the grille.  I left it off, no harm done.  Front of the car is much better, just needs a bonnet badge to finish it off properly.

 

 

Trouble is, you're going to get a noticeable paint line doing it like that. The way to do it is to compound the edge of the flatted primer back, and paint onto the shiny polished edge - that way you can lose the edge of the new paint far better once the finished job is polished back.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Or put a big hammer on one side and use another one to hit the casting , provides a shock across the taper and it will fall out

 

 

........or just drill through it? That's how I've done it. Start with a 2mm and work your way up. It will come out, it has to.

[vulgalour]

@Rev:  Haven't got a line when I've done it that way in the past.  This has all been flatted to lose the paint step before the primer went on and feathered out well into good paint on the bonnet.  I did the bonnet on the Corsa in much the same way and that doesn't have a visible blend line either and that was on metallic paint.  We shall see, knowing my luck I'll go to polish it and the whole lot will peel off like clingfilm and wrap around the polishing machine which will then spontaneously combust and burn my eyebrows off.  We also tried drilling out the stub, it just blunted drill bits REALLY quickly.