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A question about Sciroccos


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Posted

The rear spoiler does actually push down the rear at speed ...

No rain lands on the back window over 40mph ..

Wouldn't a Marina coupe have looked better with a similar spoiler

Posted

Sciroccos without spoilers were available, but look utterly wrong.

 

I'd have a white Scala, with as much 80s crap as possible. And some pastel "scribble" graphics.

Posted

I've noticed the spoiler most at high speed.

The car gets more and more stable as you approach a ton, so it feels positively planted as you get up the arse of the Aldi drivers

 

 

On your private road of course.

Posted

The air box pipe goes to the drivers side so is a carb.

The bulkhead is solid and no rust whatsoever around the clutch cable.

My Starion is going on Saturday :( so I might just stick it in for an MOT and see what happens.

Posted

I might just stick it in for an MOT and see what happens.

 

If you were to put an MOT on it I would be mucho interestido, on the off chance that nobody has it for £250 without ticket that is.

Posted

Do you want an MOT test slightly sympathetic to your needs?

Posted

COKE IS IT!

 

18825295494_a8a368114b_b.jpg

 

19447787945_f58f00eed7_b.jpg

 

19261641309_a26a6f3f5b_b.jpg

 

Master cylinder clogged with black crud - no fluid from the pipes at all.

 

19452060031_8df9f4a443_b.jpg

 

19447783935_1ebbf08a10_b.jpg

 

And then I broke it (sigh)

 

18825292144_d4d72f4f2c_b.jpg

 

Look at the fuel pipe though, put a bit of Waxoyl on to preserve it

 

19421717696_c05af09e97_b.jpg

 

Apart from the terrible paint on the bonnet, the car is flipping tidy! Not a single screw/bolt seized so far!

Posted

the bit you broke  on the master cylinder is, a rear bias valve/load proportioning valve - you might need to 'rescue' that - ie take/unscrew the remains of the busted master cylinder off the valve.

 

having run a lot of stock mk1's - them master cylinders are not much cop - tho they are slightly bigger than a mk1 golf 19mm vs 20mm on the scirocco - an upgrade is to fit a 4 outlet 16v mk2 gti master cylinder (from GSF), or an early T4 transporter master cylinder 4 outlet jobbie....

 

if you upgade like this; You have to refit the load proportioning valves, n somehow 'T in' the original brake light switch, as you see some lads do on mk1 golf or caddy forums, in a spaghetti junction DIY brake line replumb effort... other option is to run a later mk3 /polo brake switch above the brake pedal, running the wires to it... some sciroccos already have the eyed hole for this brake switch on the colum box 'from factory'....

Posted

...I have a couple of master cylinders - like the one you pulled off/that broke - one off that GTX I broke; Id post it over; if yr just moving on the car to a shitter on here for 250, n don't want to spend lots on recommissioning it.... no guarantee its not stuck either, but might save a few quid on getting it 'fit' again...

Posted

that looks like the carb version (pierburg) from the 'rad expelling its coca-cola' pics above...

Posted

that looks like the carb version (pierburg) from the 'rad expelling its coca-cola' pics above...

 

It is carb, you can tell by the airbox

and lack of injectors/k-jet gubbins.

Posted

yeah, the carb version; George forman style flat airbox gives it away; itd of course be much more desirable, if it were an injection, but for a car lying up this long, it being a carb makes getting it up n running  is probably a bit more straightforward  - the injections sittin up that long can suffer stuck fuel pump/accumulator n metering head woes...

 

...is there any 'old juice' in the tank? ... if the tank is left empty /near empty on these, it can cause the tank to rot interally over time when stood up; if theres juice in the tank, even if its varnish n soup like it'll have preserved it; siphon all the old juice out anyways, id say..... anyhow best of luck with it....

Posted

What he said. 

Pierburg carb from the airbox.

They are a pain in the arse. Ask me how I know.

The breather pipe from the cam cover is split, and given how stroppy the Pierburg can be that could cause idle problems. Seriously. They're that stroppy.

 

Someone's definitely looked after it in the past though. That fuel filler's been cared for, the coil doesn't look stock and they've stuck decent oil filters on. Suspension looks good too.

 

Also, re: braking - another option is to find a mk3 golf in a breakers yard and rob the servo and 22mm/ 9" master cylinder off it. The threaded shaft needs shortening, but if you can source a replacement stock clevis it will reduce your pedal travel and improve the brakes.

  • Like 1
Posted

the pierburg carbs are soul destroying to fix/get running some way right alright - they can be the short cut to the madhouse; if its spluttering n die'in at idle, start with checking the plastic/rubber ' manifold to carb 'base, thingey - these helpfully break down n perish over time... if it is like that- all perished - a quick'/bodge it solution is to smear it heavily with instant gasket n refit the pierburg carb, just to rule that out n see whats, what with the peirburg carb; they are the work of the devil them carbs!!

Posted

Carb is running pretty well to be honest - I can't get the servo vacuum pipe to seal in the rubber grommet without pressing it in so its leaking from there. All vacuum lines have been replaced. Replaced the master cylinder and everything has been bled, but pads and probably shoes are seized in the carriers, so I'll sort them tomorrow. Have new ones. I don't mind doing brakes, it's quite satisfying and straight forward.

I've had a good think about it and I'm sure I don't want it, I have no desire to own or drive a Volkswagen, never mind spend money on recommissioning it and getting it back on the road, and I have two other cars I need to get sorted which have ground to a halt since this appeared, so it's still here for £250. I've bought the correct paint for it, it really doesn't need much if anything for an MOT now the brakes are done. You can even borrow my a-frame if you bring it back. (The frame not the car) :)

 

Btw, the wax stat rod moves and does the job, the thermo auto choke works, it idles up fine until it gets hot and doesn't cut out. It drives and accelerates fine, and doesn't try to stall in neutral. I think the carb is Actually functioning as it should!

  • Like 1
Posted

Car is now running perfectly - but not the brakes, all the calumets/cylinders works, discs got hot with some heavy pedal action and the pads are taking the surface rust off the discs but they're so poor. I heard they were bad but they can't be this bad?? I can't get the to lock up at all. Everything works ... Crappy linkage maybe??

Posted

I seem to remember getting out of a Scirocco and into a 2cv was a bit like time travel, braking-wise. Don't expect wonders with standard brakes, but it should stop in a straight line. Eventually.

Posted

They stop ok . If you want to really frighten yourself try tailgating in a Breadvan Polo ..

Posted

You'll want to take a look at the linkage mate that connects the MC and the pedals.  If that's all buggered, you'll get bad brake performance.  They're not stunning anyway, but they WILL stop the car without too much effort if everything is OK

Posted

Brake linkage wise, it's a bar that goes across the bulkhead. There is a nut at either end (there is also a 13mm nut which is part of the actual head of the rod, don't need to rotate this, use it as leverage) Once both ends are cracked off, the entire bar should rotate by hand or mole grips.

The bar has an opposite thread on one side. This means that when your spinning the bar, it tightens or loosens the assembly depending which way you turn. This should stop any free play in the brakes. Tighten it too much and you'll be putting pressure on the brakes without even touching them.

 

Make sense?

 

By the way, they're not a bad car.  I'd have another if it was cheap.

Posted

If you jump out of anything diesel, the brakes on a Scirocco feel like the wooden blocks on a kids soapbox.

I think it's more the lack of perceived 'feel', than that the brakes are shit, because they do work reasonably well.

Posted

They're definitely non-existent. It takes about 10 metres to stop from 30mph.

Think I'll do a 99p ebay on it, that should fix it.

Posted

If you want to upgrade them, buy some 16v MK2 discs, some lupo front flexi hoses, and send me a few quid and I'll post you a set of Astra SR calipers.  You need some special bolts, but it's an easy way to get 256mm brakes on an A1 platform cheap.

Posted

They're definitely non-existent. It takes about 10 metres to stop from 30mph.

Think I'll do a 99p ebay on it, that should fix it.

 

In that case, will U take a ton m8, will brng cash & will call tonite.

Posted

Shonky FTO trash should get collected some time next week... how quickly do you want rid?

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