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Dual mass flywheel autoshite


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Posted

^^Yes, I know of a Trannie which broke its crank on a SMF. Don't know which engine, mileage or condition/servicing schedule.

 

I suppose if this old Skoda had been worth more than a grand and had fewer than 200,000 miles under its belt, I may have considered fitting the dmf. Even so, it's in fantastic order and my parents' everyday car which they don't mind leaving in supermarket carparks or using on the saltiest roads, so I did plenty of research to make sure the saved cash isn't spent buying a replacement box (although £25-40 for good one from a source).

 

I'm as sure as sure can be the crank won't give up, unless VW/Skoda changed the forging quality the moment they started fitting these sprung flywheels, or fitted weaker cranks to the higher-powered engines which had them fitted. They weren't quite up to Ford cynicism 15 years ago, according to Audi specialist matey, but they're right up there with Ford today in the quality stakes.

 

If the car lunches itself because of this Valeo clutch and flywheel, I'm the one doing the repair/replacement work foc. I hated the job, for the unnecessary complication of everything under the bonnet as well as the crosswise installation - and didn't want to have to do a repeat procedure. It's the most modern car in the family, the expendible machine to do the humdrum stuff - the family all hate modern cars - even the least mechanically-minded says it feels as if manufacturers are taking the piss with <10 year old stuff. It replaced a 124 300TD, which is waiting to replace the Skoda-VW when it croaks. I just have to sort out the sunroof, spheres, front wings and interior (I used it before realising it was probably going to be both the last and next car). Sunroof the worst job by far.

 

The car is now a more satisfying drive for me - the clutch is more progressive and it feels almost impossible to stall, like diesels always used to. Acceleration feels less impressive but in fact the car reaches speed just as quickly, just a little less noticeably. I've always liked heavier flywheels. Previously it was quite easy to stall, for anyone used to real cars. My mother much prefers it, dad hasn't noticed the difference. There's barely any more vibration, just that slight tingle through the clutch pedal to let you know the engine's burning oil rather than petrol.

 

Time will tell, it does about 20k a year in hilly country and tows boats in summer, every now and then. There's little urban work but plenty of gearchanging. If it all goes tits up I'll report back.

  • Like 2
Posted

I enquired about this a while back. My daily 2003 PD engined A4 avant has a clutch on its last legs. However, to my untrained ear, there's not much in the way of noise, vibration or general signs of shaggedness from the dmf. My issue is that I only tend to keep cars for a couple of years tops. I don't think my clutch will last another 18 months, and if I still own the car at that point, I'll need to bite the bullet. I'm tempted to get the clutch and pressure itself replaced, but retain the old dmf it that's feasible. In my eyes, that'll save me a couple of hundred quid straight away, and allow me to use the car with a decent clutch bite for the remainder of my ownership.

 

OP - if you like the car, I suggest you bite the bullet and get the dmf done if you plan to keep the car for a significant number of years. Otherwise, go for the cheapest option available.

Posted

I think the DMF on the Mondeo might be getting a bit tired - there's an occasional rattle at idle which goes when I depress the clutch pedal, and it's a bit vibratey below 1,500 rpm.  I probably won't be replacing it though, as by the time I've paid for labour as well (I seem to recall clutches are a bit of an arsehole of a job on Mk3 Mondeos) it'll end up costing me more than I paid for the car.  I'll probably just drive it until it disintegrates and then bridge it.  Problem is I've no idea how long it's likely to last, so I don't know if it'd be worth putting the car through another test (it has just under two months left) or forking out to replace the noisy rear wheel bearing.

 

Bloody modern diesels.

Posted

I enquired about this a while back. My daily 2003 PD engined A4  ... I'm tempted to get the clutch and pressure itself replaced, but retain the old dmf it that's feasible.

 

Bad idea.

Even if the flywheel is still within tolerance it may cause issues with a new clutch. 

You might be lucky or you might end up doing the job twice and replacing the flywheel the second time.

Posted

Bloody modern diesels.

 

Aye, too bloody right. This Octavia is a great car in many respects (and better built than its Wolfsburg and Ingoldstadt cousins, according to Audi man) but with a turbo which often fails in English driving conditions - costing megabucks - and the expensive clutch/dmf thing (when either wears, replace both - usual cost at reasonable-rate garage over £600) it could be seen as a bit of a liability for a cheapo car, which is what any Golf/Oct is.

 

The old Audi 80 dizzler seems to be the everlasting car which rarely needs much doing - nice long wheelbase, proper rear axle, well-galvanised from the era when they were still practicing wasting zinc, just a little heavy if it's the final B4 model. And the old Audi dreariness to overcome. Bigger injectors and bigger brakes along with Bilstein damping transforms them.

 

PS wafers, if you're paying for labour then the cost differential is minimal - LuK clutch kit and DMF is under £300.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfNjARZc5Wo

Posted

I bet DMF had and will continue to the death of many a modern diesel.

  • Like 2
Posted

I know someone whose Octavia has had two turbo replacements (surprised it didn't die, it did the runaway revving thing). I had the German engineering!!!111!11!/VAG GR8 QUALITY brainwashed talk for months prior to the car being bought, funnily enough I don't hear it so much nowadays.

 

I've driven it a couple of times and it's incredibly easy to stall.

Posted

I think the DMF on the Mondeo might be getting a bit tired - there's an occasional rattle at idle which goes when I depress the clutch pedal, and it's a bit vibratey below 1,500 rpm.  I probably won't be replacing it though, as by the time I've paid for labour as well (I seem to recall clutches are a bit of an arsehole of a job on Mk3 Mondeos) it'll end up costing me more than I paid for the car.  I'll probably just drive it until it disintegrates and then bridge it.  Problem is I've no idea how long it's likely to last, so I don't know if it'd be worth putting the car through another test (it has just under two months left) or forking out to replace the noisy rear wheel bearing.

 

Bloody modern diesels.

My sons 53 reg TDCi Mondeo had flywheel fitted by Kwik Fit at 125k just before he got it and it was rattling again at 140k. Limped it on till 160k by which time you could feel it through the brake pedal going into roundabouts as well. I fitted a solid conversion, yes it was a bit a bit of an arsehole to do. I thought the kit was poor quality, the pedal had a poor action afterward, felt soggy. It was a Transmech kit and flywheel dowel hole was too big, I had to build the dowel with tape to centralise it and keep the ecu happy. It repaid us by eating an injector 4 months later. Goodbye.

Posted

Modern high torque diesel + 6 speed twin wet clutch "auto" electronic preselect Getrag box = Win. NO DMF, but TWO expensive clutches instead.

Posted

I'm tempted to get the clutch and pressure itself replaced, but retain the old dmf it that's feasible.

 

 

If the DMF is within tolerance it should be fine with a new clutch.

Posted

If the DMF is within tolerance it should be fine with a new clutch.

I replaced the original clutches on a 165k Alfa 2.4 JTD and a 240k BMW 525Tds, both flywheels were fine so lived to fight again. As above, sons Mondeo ate them though.

Posted

A mate tried replacing the clutch only on a DMF VAG which had the flywheel within tolerance.

2 weeks later (after loads of aggro) the gearbox came off again and he replaced the flywheel.

Posted

The dual-mass flywheel really is an item that is most affected by driving 'style'.  If you have the ability to control the clutch smoothly, with the correct revs, the DMF will last well.

If you operate the clutch aggressively, sit with your foot on it with the car stationary and let an engine labour at low revs, you will wear the DMF out.  I appreciate some models have a weaker setup (Ford- I'm looking at you) but they should last 100k with no bother.  I have seen them last 200k in one instance and that was on a Fiat JTD engine.

I'm no fan of the DMF and treat any I use with respect.  I have personally never seen any evidence of damage done to engines or gearboxes by fitting a conventional flywheel, either.

Of course, our biggest problem is taking over a cheap car and inheriting a previous owner's neglect and abuse of the drivetrain :(

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