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Rover 25 GTI - *flashback*


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Posted

Just to be sure, check the resistor under the glove box. They can play up a bit and mess up the heating and cooling.

Posted

Just to be sure, check the resistor under the glove box. They can play up a bit and mess up the heating and cooling.

 

As I understand it, the resistor is used in relation to the altering of altering fan motor speed?

The fan itself works on all speeds as it should, just the air temp doesnt alter as it should when the temp dial is altered.

I'll check it, but I dont think its at fault in this case, though they are prone to blowing, being nothing more than a curly bit of wire in the glovebox.

Posted

What's the coolant level like? My 45 reported a healthy just before halfway temp on the gauge even though it had emptied itself of coolant, so this might just be a stuck thermostat?

Posted

What's the coolant level like? My 45 reported a healthy just before halfway temp on the gauge even though it had emptied itself of coolant, so this might just be a stuck thermostat?

 

 

Coolant level hasnt moved, thankfully. Though I'm watching it like a hawk that is fascinated by coolant levels.

All signs point to thermostat really.  A knackered saab valve bypassing the matrix would explain cool blowers (I think) but the engine should still be banging up to temp (I think).

 

All will be revealed whence new pipes and stat come together in the hands of a trained Rover tickler. (i.e. not me.)

Posted

I'm in for the changing of the 'stat camp too. Air lock a possibility? Worth checking the little bits first before splashing out on the costly items.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I had a similar thing on a Corolla Twincam. I changed the stat which solved it for about a week, when the cheapo aftermarket stat also decided to cease doing its job. Bit the bullet and bought one from Toyota for about £40 (as opposed to £12) which worked fine!

Posted

The problem was that the head gasket went on mine before I got this very problem  resolved( and the head cracked)

Posted

Its got a new rad and a new stat in, although I did drill a hole in the stat like a dick before I got to the bottom of the real problem. I would say that's the most likely culprit, it might just be that the recent cold weather combined with a new rad and the hole in the stat, is stopping the coolant actually reaching a decent temperature. If you're gonna fit the new SAAB valve you'll have to drain the coolant anyway (which incidentally is brand new fresh OAT stuff) so its a good opportunity to swap out the 'stat as well.

Posted

it might just be that the recent cold weather combined with a new rad and the hole in the stat, is stopping the coolant actually reaching a decent temperature. If you're gonna fit the new SAAB valve you'll have to drain the coolant anyway (which incidentally is brand new fresh OAT stuff) so its a good opportunity to swap out the 'stat as well.

 

Agreed. And yes indeed, this is the plan. Just waiting for the pipes and saab valve to land, then she will be getting a bit of tinkering at local tame independant garage.

 

I must say again that I'm loving this car. Its little cracker.

Posted

Are you gonna take it to the Rocket Garage? I love that place. I see that silver 124 Merc estate has gone off the front yard!!!

Posted

K series in running too cold scoop, who'd a thunk it!

 

Never ever believe a K series temp gauge, they lie. A Lot.

 

Check the heater valve down on the bulkhead, and make sure it's moving with the control over its whole range,and both inlet and outlet heater pipes are getting hot.

Posted

Are you gonna take it to the Rocket Garage? I love that place. I see that silver 124 Merc estate has gone off the front yard!!!

 

I am. Its always my preferred place as they're honest, cheap and there's a real old-school wealth of knowledge in the three generations that work there. In one bay.

 

Dunno what happened to the Merc. It was MOT'd in the spring so maybe been pressed into WBOD duties.

Posted

K series in running too cold scoop, who'd a thunk it!

 

Never ever believe a K series temp gauge, they lie. A Lot.

 

Check the heater valve down on the bulkhead, and make sure it's moving with the control over its whole range,and both inlet and outlet heater pipes are getting hot.

 

Cheers other Barry. Good advice.

Yeah, the heater is warming a bit but better now (self fixing cars ftw), so I was starting to question the needle accuracy.

 

Still going to change the pipes, saab valve and stat while its in for the cam belt. Cant hurt.

 

More news will be posted after the fiddlings.

Posted

Lets do.

 

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This shit*

 

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*or pay a man to do this shit.

 

Work shall commence tomorrow.

  • Like 1
Posted

Manual tensioner ?

 

Er, I hope thats not bad news. Euro Car Parts never get things wrong.

Posted

Are you changing the oil? I changed it myself for some decent semi-synth stuff as part of the head job.

Posted

I just realised that this is a VVC... Ignore me, manual tensioner is correct !

Posted

Are you changing the oil? I changed it myself for some decent semi-synth stuff as part of the head job.

 

I was going to as a matter of course. But theres no point if its fresh.  Did you do the filter too?

I think I've read your thread 10 times now, and I'm sure I have retained absolutely no useful information.

Posted

That can go in the "for the future" cupboard then, cheers fella.

Posted

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Ta da.

 

 

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That's better. Running nice and warm now, and gets up to tempt promptly.  The stat was more of a pain than on non-kettles, and required the inlet manifold off.  Everyone probs knows that already though.

The replacement piping and more importantly, saab valve, is the bad, newer style, I'm hoping to get another 50 odd thousand miles out of it before it fails again!

 

Super happy with it on the whole.  Seems a bit more responsive after the Fuel filter change. Though this could just be my imagination and wishful thinking.

 

I know I have mentioned before that I like it, but I like it so much in fact, that I bought it!

Which is probably for the best, as I've spunked all over it. (with money. Not spunk.)

 

 

Running total costs:

 

Car: £450

Tax: er £20 a month.

Tyres : £259.96 (revised as I found the reciept)

Cam belt and water pump: £70

Shelf £10

Coolant/heater pipes: £55

Stickers: £2

Fuel filter: £13.50

Thermostat: £5

Labour and coolant: £160

 

Spend so far:

£1045.46.

 

Probably the last car I'll ever buy.

In my defence, it did deserve some love.

Posted

Great work shitpeas!!! £160 is a good price for that lot. I reckon it should be pretty much faultless now!!!

Posted

I looks like a happy ending for one of the Bollox k-series kapers ... which is nice.

Posted

Great work shitpeas!!! £160 is a good price for that lot. I reckon it should be pretty much faultless now!!!

 

Yeah, I think I might be on m8z r8z now, as its a very good price for the hours put in IMO.

I cant rate that garage highly enough. I would never go anywhere else. Unless I needed tyres.

 

Hopefully, its all just enjoyment for the Gti now.  She's had all her tickling. Its time to PUT OUT! TO THE MAX!

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

In other news.

 

 

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Brand new Goodyear tyre. Fucked.

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Reinforced concrete wall 1-0 Rover 25 GTI.

 

 

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Known casualties are bumper, headlight, wing, screen wash reservoir (which I had just filled), the headlight , tyre.

 

Wheel looks ok.

 

Will inspect further later. I'm late for fucking work.

Posted

Coming down a narrow high kerbed tunnel in car park. Rounded a corner and there was a pedestrian. I swerved.

There's signs saying NO PEDESTRIAN ACCESS FOR A REASON.

Think he was off his tits on glue or similar.

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