Triumph Herald update - Loss of garage

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

I have a 61 s with a fiber dash. 

 

That's the badger.

[stephen01]

Not an actual update on any work, but my wife has managed to talk her sister into letting me use her garage to work on my herald, she’s only had her new house for 2 weeks 😂

I went up yesterday and made myself a work bench, total cost £8.50. 

 

Car is booked to be moved next Saturday, I’ve got to put the front hub back in first so it’ll roll! 

[Low Horatio gearbox]

Good to see the essential tools are there... kettle and a hammer.

[stephen01]

58 minutes ago, Low Horatio gearbox said:

Good to see the essential tools are there... kettle and a hammer.

Wife got me the kettle so I don’t pester the sister in law for cups of tea!
 

I need to buy me a heater, while it was okay yesterday, I was only messing about with wood, I’m sure cold bits of car will be different

[Six-cylinder]

9 minutes ago, stephen01 said:

Wife got me the kettle so I don’t pester the sister in law for cups of tea!

But your sister-in-law will still will have to make your welcoming bacon roll and home baked cake for afternoon tea!

[stephen01]

Had this picked up and dropped off at the garage today, 

 

 

tucked up, I ideally wanted it front first so I could work away from the cold door, plus my tools etc are the other end! 
 

picking up some new goggles etc tomorrow and will hopefully be able to do some bits to it! 
 

 

[Mrs6C]

Lovely 12/50! Do you have any photos of your 'S'? They are rare beasts these days. Did yours have a heater and has it still got its rubber mats instead of the carpet?

[Isaac Hunt]

On 1/3/2021 at 11:07 AM, stephen01 said:

 

I need to buy me a heater

Then you will have to store the milk outside

[Jerzy Woking]

Was it relatively easy to haul it out from where it was parked up? I remember where it was when i dropped off the Suzuki to you.

[stephen01]

7 hours ago, Mrs6C said:

Lovely 12/50! Do you have any photos of your 'S'? They are rare beasts these days. Did yours have a heater and has it still got its rubber mats instead of the carpet?

I sold it to a friend, after spending a fair few quid on storage like 

5 hours ago, Jerzy Woking said:

Was it relatively easy to haul it out from where it was parked up? I remember where it was when i dropped off the Suzuki to you.

I can’t remember if when you came it was in the garden up the back or on the front? 
 

we pushed it just down the road to his recovery truck, no brakes and clutch is erm in operational . 

[DSdriver]

Driving just using the handbrake and knocking car in and out of gear with no clutch does take a bit of practice.

[stephen01]

shiny new calliper, had to file the hubs slightly as they were just rubbing the new callipers, this is in part to upgrading to type14 callipers and partly because pattern parts, got both sides done, I have the old callipers to refurb in the future. 

 

As I’m renewing all the brakes, my attention then turned to the brake master cylinder, I have a seal kit for this, and was shocked at how easy this has come, like super easy, Im however unsure if it’s serviceable, it’s not in a good state, I’m also not sure how to get the little piston, is it even called a piston? out? 

ironically the couple of outside rubbers are in good nick.
 

 

I’ve taken it home to degrease, and look at. I may be ordering a new one but I’d prefer to refurb the old one, while you can buy pretty much everything for these cars, I do believe the old saying, they don’t make them like they used to! The callipers  have shown me this in terms of quality.

 

I know this bulkhead looks crap but it’s very solid, no rust thankfully, so will be degreased, rubbed back, primed and painted. 
 

[Six-cylinder]

2 minutes ago, stephen01 said:

shiny new calliper, had to file the hubs slightly as they were just rubbing the new callipers, this is in part to upgrading to type14 callipers and partly because pattern parts, got both sides done, I have the old callipers to refurb in the future. 

 

As I’m renewing all the brakes, my attention then turned to the brake master cylinder, I have a seal kit for this, and was shocked at how easy this has come, like super easy, Im however unsure if it’s serviceable, it’s not in a good state, I’m also not sure how to get the little piston, is it even called a piston? out? 

ironically the couple of outside rubbers are in good nick.
 

 

I’ve taken it home to degrease, and look at. I may be ordering a new one but I’d prefer to refurb the old one, while you can buy pretty much everything for these cars, I do believe the old saying, they don’t make them like they used to! The callipers  have shown me this in terms of quality.

 

I know this bulkhead looks crap but it’s very solid, no rust thankfully, so will be degreased, rubbed back, primed and painted. 
 

A solid bulkhead is great news.

[SiC]

Can you get genuine TRW, AP or similar big brand master cylinders for these? Out of the new parts, they do seem pretty good quality from the ones I've put on cars. Stay away from the cheaper and unbranded ones.

Other option is to send it off to refurb. I believe @Angrydicky works for someone that does it (Past Parts).

[Low Horatio gearbox]

3 hours ago, stephen01 said:

As I’m renewing all the brakes, my attention then turned to the brake master cylinder, I have a seal kit for this, and was shocked at how easy this has come, like super easy, Im however unsure if it’s serviceable, it’s not in a good state, I’m also not sure how to get the little piston, is it even called a piston? out? 

 

I know this bulkhead looks crap but it’s very solid, no rust thankfully, so will be degreased, rubbed back, primed and painted. 
 

Don't knock easy! 

My Rovers master cyliner was full up both sides sue to a split diaphragm and somewhat shagged with a bit of scoring, but a rebuild kit seems to have done the job as that was 16 months ago now. You may luck out too. Cheap new repro new ones were available but I was advised to avoid them  I will echo SiC and get a branded or professionally  refurbished one if you feel it's too far gone.

A solid bulkhead is what you want, who cares if it looks crap (it's  what I keep telling my dates anyway...)

 

[Jerzy Woking]

4 hours ago, stephen01 said:

I can’t remember if when you came it was in the garden up the back or on the front? 
 

In front of the house. Looks as solid as you told me it was. Looking forward to seeing more of this. My mum had one as a stop gap car waiting for her new Fiesta was I was 18, and I "borrowed" it on several occassions!

[stephen01]

I may well be getting ahead of myself a bit here I’m also spurned on by the blue acclaim!  While I’d love to go all out and do a full body restoration I have a few things stopping this, money, time, skill & space but to name a few.

My main aim is to get the car to a presentable condition and not completely hanging, I’m half confidant with a spray can in the sense that I can wield it around roughly in the direction of what I want covered in paint, results vary. 
 

I’m looking for some advise around primers and what not, obviously I’m looking for some rust treatment  and rust protection once treated. 
 
Reading online I’ve heard good stuff about vatacan rust treatment, this will be my treatment process and I’m thinking some zinc rich primer, this is where I need some help, there’s a few on the market, what’s the best? Are they all the same I know some are going to be higher zinc content than the others but surely the cheapest / worst is going to be better than just normal primer? 

Is a zinc primer even needed if it’s being pretreated with Vatican beforehand? Should I use an etch primer? Are all primers pours? Which ones aren’t? 

I’ll not be spraying the car in one big hit, more of a patchwork quilt affair, again I’m not going for a show car, I’m looking for durable, everyday outside all weather use. 
 
Top coats are a whole other story, 1k, 2k, clear coat no clear coat. 

If you’re reading this you’re probably thinking really? This guy wants to do his own spraying! 

like I say I know I may be getting ahead of myself a bit, but I want to start the top of the bulk head before I refit the brake & clutch cylinders. 

[Mrs6C]

Finnegan's No.1 Rust Primer, every time. Rub down to as bare and smooth a metal surface as you can get and then brush on this primer. You can paint over it with anything.

[Mrs6C]

Also, household gloss paint for exterior metalwork and woodwork isn't a bad way to paint an old car that has to live out in all weathers. It can go on very smoothly if you use a decent brush and take your time. Prepare the old paint with a good wash and scrub with Flash liquid in warm water and a scrim, then rinse and let dry. Lightly sand old paintwork for a key to the surface. Paint  on your gloss paint working from the top down and middle to outside edges.

Boat enamel for narrowboats is also a good choice for brush paint and can be cheaper.

[GingerNuttz]

On my Herald I've went bedliner inside and underneath, the body will be Epoxy-2k primer-basecoat then clear. I've also phosphoric acid washed the whole car inside and out just to kill any rust that sanding and grinding couldn't get to.

Epoxy isn't porous and can be left for months while you work on other parts of the car and offers superior rust protection compared to zinc and etch primers.

 

 

[stephen01]

On 1/12/2021 at 9:48 AM, GingerNuttz said:

On my Herald I've went bedliner inside and underneath, the body will be Epoxy-2k primer-basecoat then clear. I've also phosphoric acid washed the whole car inside and out just to kill any rust that sanding and grinding couldn't get to.

Epoxy isn't porous and can be left for months while you work on other parts of the car and offers superior rust protection compared to zinc and etch primers.

@GingerNuttz what mask setup do you use? reading up on paints 2K just seems like it wants to kill you and you need a full air feed mask set up? This is a little unpractical for my set up if I'm honest, it's also not my house so don't want to piss off the sister-in-law too much. 

I'm looking at normal aerosol spray paints -  assuming this is all 1k? 

ProXL 1K Epoxy Primer Aerosol 500ml - Express Paints (express-paints.co.uk) 

I'm looking to use the above as a base primer, then possibly a high build / red oxide then colour.  What sort of masks etc would be recommended? final colour undecided but it will be a red of some sort.  

[stephen01]

A couple of weeks ago i removed the brake master cylinder ready for a refurb. 



It was seized solid after not having any brake fluid in it for the best part of 5 years maybe. I managed to free it up and remove the very rusty piston. 

 

The retaining clip here is the new one, it was that manky the original one had disintegrated and was no where to be found. 

 

Cleaned up with new rubbers. 

 

All refitted and the main body given a decent cleaning, took me a good couple of hours with cleaning everything up. I need a new cap as this one is not giving me a good seal, even with new rubber. 

 

[GingerNuttz]

If you're not using 2 pack epoxy I'd just use Zinc 182 as your base followed by something high build that you can sand to 500-800 grit for 1k topcoat. If you want to stick to the can route you could use Upol etch cans as a base followed by a primer then topcoat, the Upol ones can be had cheaper than the proXL ones. 

Grab a Gerson masks if you can find one, It's what I've always used at home and never had an issue with them.

(sorry bout the late reply but I didn't get a notification a fortnight ago ) 

 

 

[stephen01]

I’ve been very tempted to buy a compressor and spray gun to do the final top coat.

I was tempted to go all modern and paint it Renault flame red. 

loved this colour when it came out on the clio, not sure it would look right on a 50 year old herald mind. Also really fancy an old English white roof and wheels. 
 

My biggest concern is leaving something in primer for ‘x’ amounts of weeks / months and it just starting to rust underneath. 
 

I think I found those masks, not mega money really so will probably invest in one in any case regardless of what paint I use. 

[Fumbler]

2 hours ago, stephen01 said:

My biggest concern is leaving something in primer for ‘x’ amounts of weeks / months and it just starting to rust underneath.

Which is why using 2K epoxy primer is ideal for your situation. If you go for a compressor and spraygun, it'll give you access to mixing and spraying primer as well as your topcoats. The masks seem ideal to me too.

Otherwise, I can't see any bad in using red oxide as your primer and just slapping it on with a brush. Red oxide seems rather good for long term exposure to the elements.

[artdjones]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274317487624

Can you get this stuff over there? I've been using the light grey on my Saab. I wouldn't do what the ad says, i.e. paint it straight over rust. That might be ok on a tractor, but not on a car. Get as much rust off as possible, treat with converter, then seal seams , then this. The reason it seems good it it has quite a sheen and looks less porous than a lot of primers.

[stephen01]

Unsurprisingly my SIL wants her garage back, it was only mean to be short term while I got the herald ready for the road, as I've not been down to see it for 2 years I can see why she wants me to move it. 

This is not great for me as it's in no position to be moved and in a worse state than when I moved it back in 2021.  I do have some holiday I can use to go and throw it back together, but I have very limited funds ATM to throw at it. Oh well. 

I think my plan is now to get it roadworthy and use it over the summer. I may end up selling it next year as I don't have inside storage and I'm not sure how long it'll last outside. 

 

[stephen01]

I’ve had a few hours bodging this back together, and that’s just what I’m doing, bodging it back together, the wife says it must be presentable if it’s to live in the drive, fair enough.

I don’t have the time or money to do what I really want to do to this car, which is a full restoration, which has just been a good excuse for the last 10 years of doing nothing with it. So I must now do something with it so I can use it and it’s got to look half decent. 

I got the callipers back on, new flexible hoses, went to look for the brake master cylinder that I rebuilt and I can’t find it for love nor money, I had my hands on it a few months ago and I was confidant I knew where it was, I may end up buying a new one as this is a sure fire way for me to find it! 
 

Talking about the bodges, I know this is not the way to do it, but time is of the essence and budget is limited.

Buzzed off the rust bubbles and surprise surprise we have a few holes, remember when I mentioned the word bodge? Out comes the Alu mesh and body filler 🫣

 

before I slapped on the filler I gave it a slathering of Krust. 
 

similar story along the bottom edge and bottom of the door. 

here’s one I did earlier! 

I’m torn between how to do the finish coat, I have a litre  of red and blue paint and I’m half tempted to mix these together and see what type of purple I get,  I have a compressor and spray gun, I’m half decent with a can and the last time I used a spray gun 20 odd years I got a very good finish.

I’m just aware I’ll have to do a ‘proper’ spray in one go whereas I could do a bit at a time with rattle cans.