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Advice on how to remove belligerent spark plugs


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Posted

As my Talbot Horizon doesn't start, petrol seems to get through but it doesn't fire so I suspect the coil maybe faulty.

 

I was going to remove one of the plugs and test it to see if it sparks. However all four spark plugs are totally stuck, I have a spark plug removal tool with a handle but it doesn't move them. I am worried about damaging the thread on the head if I am not careful but was wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to remove them. I have tried spraying the area with WD40 but as the plugs presumably make an air tight seal I doubt anything will get into the threads!

 

If not I may just have to get it towed to the garage which may be the safer option but I was hoping to do this myself.

 

Any advice would be gratefully received. 

Posted

If the recesses the plugs sit in is clean drop some diesel or plusgas into the aperture and let it soak in for a while. If you only have WD then that'll have to do.

 

Use some leverage on the tool and slowly remove the plug. Don't forget that for every 2 turns of undoing go back 1 turn to work the penetrating fluid in. Also allow time for the threads to cool by moving onto another plug.

 

Time consuming yes, but its worked in the past for me.

  • Like 2
Posted

S i L in same boat..... mk3 Fiesta.

 

Sparkplugs come with a 'health warning' on box - that is 'health of cyl head'.

 

Duck oil, perhaps... oh, and judicious application of heat.

 

 

TS

Posted

Thanks guys for the advice.

 

I will see if the little shop down the road has some plusgas.

Posted

Hi,

 

Use a spare spark plug to check for spark, fix the fault and run the engine till its good and hot then try and remove the spark plugs, make sure the spanner is a good fit. If they don't move try  tightening the plug a tiny bit before loosening.   The sealing washer is at the top of the thread so WD40 won't reach the thread unless it has been loosened a tad.

Posted

Use a known good plug on the leads to test ignition/spark being generated - no need to remove plugs. if coil, rectify problem then get it stonking hot, and have another bash. Plusgas/duck oil on threads/base of plug. WD-40 is like pissing in the wind.

 

if still struggling i could pop head under bonnet one of the days. And then snap them off for you.  :-)

  • Like 3
Posted

Okay I hadn't thought of using a spare plug I have some in the shed, thanks for the advice will try it this afternoon.

 

Thanks Red5 thats a very kind offer. I'll let you know.

 

Pete

Posted

I would defo do what Castro says, if you can get some warmth into the plugs that's your best chance of shifting em all with minimal chance of smashagr

Posted

Also use a socket,extension bar and ratchet,not one of those awful wobbly thandle things

  • Like 1
Posted

Castos has the right idea . Get it running somehow and get it pinking hot . Will come out easy then .

Posted

Yup. Hot is definitely good. I also recommend this if you're removing stubborn thermostat housing bolts, though naturally you then have to watch out for hot coolant. Trying to remove stubborn bolts cold can often end badly.

Posted

I've got a spare plug just waiting for my assistant to come round!

 

Thanks for all your helpful advice.

Posted

I always use a long T handle on an extension bar for stuff like this.  I try to have the T in the middle and twist both sides of the bar.  My theory is that this puts the most pure twisting force on things without any sideways forces and so is less likely to snap something.  I have no idea whether it really helps.  The other trick is to do the same thing but also get an assistant to smack the top of the T bar with a big hammer whilst I am twisting at the same time. It might just shock the threads past the stuck bit.

  • Like 2
Posted

Unfortunately I can't find any of our socket ratchet drivers. They must be buried deep in the shed behind lots of rubbish or they have gone missing, haven't seen them for a couple of years. I have plenty of sockets and have found a couple of spark plug socket.

 

I think it's time I bought a new set anyway!

Posted

Unplug coil lead from distributor, get some someone you don't like much to hold it while you crank. They'll soon tell you if the coils working.

Posted

Well there is no spark coming from any of the four HT leads, not even a weak spark, I've tried them all with a brand new spark plug which I found in the shed.

 

There are a few coils on ebay some quite cheap so I will get one and some new leads, can't do any harm.

Posted

Did you check whether 12V arrive at the coil, when you switch on the ignition?

Is the point set adjusted correctly, and is there a spark, when you turn over the engine?

Posted

On the plus side, if it's not the plugs at fault you don't need to remove them!

  • Like 1
Posted

Did you check whether 12V arrive at the coil, when you switch on the ignition?

Is the point set adjusted correctly, and is there a spark, when you turn over the engine?

I'm back at work tomorrow so will borrow a multimeter and test the coil.

 

It's electronic ignition so no points. Someone on the Talbot forum has suggested the module could have failed which I'm hoping not!

Posted

On the plus side, if it's not the plugs at fault you don't need to remove them!

That's what I was thinking  :-D !!

Posted

Have you checked there is power/spark from the king lead of the coil.?Pull the centre lead from the distributor cap and try your plug in there. It might just be the dizzy-cap.

Posted

Have you checked there is power/spark from the king lead of the coil.?Pull the centre lead from the distributor cap and try your plug in there. It might just be the dizzy-cap.

This is going to sound stupid but I tried that but couldn't insert the plug into the lead, it doesn't fit unless I am doing something totally wrong!

Posted

I wouldn't necessarily expect a spark plug to fit a king lead. They're designed for different connections.

Posted

also check if coil l/t is getting switched on an off.

 

Doesn't matter if it is points or electronic because all either does is switch coil on /off. No switching=no spark.

 

Similarly check coil by applying volts to l/t and then removing......this should make a spark via king lead. No spark=fkd coil

Posted

Attached the end of the plug to the lead, the inside of the lead was bent. There is a spark from that plug. Will take off and clean the distributor cap tomorrow and rotor, although the rotor arm looked clean when I last checked.

 

I hopefully will have a multimeter to use tomorrow.

Posted

Yay I don't know why or what I did but it started!

 

I removed the dizzy cap took the rotor arm off and examined it, put it back together and though well I might as well try again, and it went.

 

The oil pressure light is flashing on and off however although there seems to be plenty of oil in it.

 

Also, the accelerator pedal seems to have little movement and does not seem to make any difference to the engine speed also it runs quite fast and almost sounds like two much petrol is going through so obviously the two are linked.

 

The engine sounds healthy enough and not nearly as noisy as I expected!

 

Thanks for everyones advice in the thread, it's great that people are so willing to help a relative noob like myself!

Posted

Your flashing oil light is most likely to be oil level not oil pressure, i think those things are pretty hyperactive at the best of times on these old Talbots. I would say don't worry about it if the dipstick shows plenty of oil.

  • Like 1
Posted

You know where I am if you ever need a hand! (Okay, I wouldn't mind a perv over your ever increasing beige chod collection truth be told!)

Posted

You know where I am if you ever need a hand! (Okay, I wouldn't mind a perv over your ever increasing beige chod collection truth be told!)

That's great, thankyou very much.

 

You are welcome anytime just let me know. I'll PM you my number.

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