Skizzer's SD1: Tomorrow's Car, Yesterday. Fixerations, with mixed results

[Skizzer]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

I’ve tried Plusgas in the lock (always a good first thing to try);

I’ve tried removing the vent panel that runs along the lower edge of the tailgate to see if it gives me access (it doesn’t);

I’ve tried pressing down on the tailgate, pulling it up, both at once and all manner of wiggling things around, also trying to reset the central locking;

I’ve tried lifting the rear seat base in case it helps with releasing the seat back (it won’t);

The light units don’t have external screws (because David Bache was too much of a design purist for that) and I haven’t smashed one because I think the aperture will be too small and too far away, like Father Ted’s cows only more so.

 

I will give the Plusgas one more go but otherwise next step is this:

 

then this:

 

 

I’ve ordered the panel anyway, because Rimmers are having a clearance sale on them (worryingly) and the one that’s on there is about 30% fibreglass anyway.

 

In the meantime I’ll just be chucking stuff on the back seat and doing without the toolbox that’s shut in the boot.

[trigger]

The boot lock on mine doesn't work probably, they are a wank design. Would a locksmith not be able to unlock it?

[Skizzer]

The boot lock on mine doesn't work probably, they are a wank design. Would a locksmith not be able to unlock it?

That may be worth a try - I was assuming it's the latch mechanism but I'm often wrong. Good call Trigmeister.

 

Suspect a locksmith's call-out charge will be more than I'm paying for the new panel, mind!

[trigger]

Just a thought but if you have recovery on your insurance and said you was locked out of your boot would that be covered? It's probably pushing it a bit but might be worth a ask?

[Skizzer]

Just a thought but if you have recovery on your insurance and said you was locked out of your boot would that be covered? It's probably pushing it a bit but might be worth a ask?

I do have Green Flag, but not sure I'd want to use up one of my limited lives on this. As Nyphur said last week, do I really need a boot?

 

I'll ask around, someone round here will know either a locksmith or a reformed* scrote with suitable car-nicking skills.

[beko1987]

Walk into a dodgy local boozer, find someone who looks like they were a right twat in 1982 and buy them a pint?

[Junkman]

What exactly is actually happening/not happening when you try to open the boot?

What is the normal opening procedure on these?

[Cleon-Fonte]

Does this SD1 have central locking? If so, wait until you become resigned to the boot no longer opening then it'll miraculously unlock itself.

[Skizzer]

Does this SD1 have central locking? If so, wait until you become resigned to the boot no longer opening then it'll miraculously unlock itself.

It does indeed have central locking, which is as flaky as you’d expect. Although I *think* it’s disconnected from the tailgate, which has its own solenoid.

 

What is the normal opening procedure on these?

Normal operating procedure is exactly what Cleon-Fonte said.

 

Before: pull on handle, feel resistance, tailgate opens. Now: pull on handle, nada.

 

Unlocking: before, can’t remember. Now: turn key 1/8 of a turn, nothing happens. So it could be the lock.

[SiC]

Have you asked the SD1 owners club for ideas?

 

An old colleague does something with them (he owns 3 SD1s..) and I can drop him a note if it is helpful?

[Junkman]

Before: pull on handle, feel resistance, tailgate opens. Now: pull on handle, nada.

 

Unlocking: before, can’t remember. Now: turn key 1/8 of a turn, nothing happens. So it could be the lock.

 

I guess something indeed became unhooked inside. So, with regret, I have nothing to suggest that wasn't suggested yet.

But if you can take the rear seat squabs out, what hinders you to take the backrests out as well?

[Skizzer]

I guess something indeed became unhooked inside. So, with regret, I have nothing to suggest that wasn't suggested yet.

But if you can take the rear seat squabs out, what hinders you to take the backrests out as well?

Sadly you can’t take the squab out, the backrest prevents it lifting up. The backrest catch, a very robust thing, is of course inside the boot.

 

Have you asked the SD1 owners club for ideas?

An old colleague does something with them (he owns 3 SD1s..) and I can drop him a note if it is helpful?

That’s very kind - yes please if that’s no trouble. Experience from anyone who’s cracked this problem before would be very welcome.

 

I haven’t asked the OC as I’m not a member - I suppose I should be but I’m really not what social psychologists call a belonger-joiner. I also find one-make/model clubs very scary, which I dare say is unfair but that’s just me.

[DeeJay]

Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to sacrifice the parcel shelf (unless it's  made of unobtanium).

[Skizzer]

It would, but it is

 

One of the best bits of the car, in fact, because it’s not made of low grade steel that rusts from the inside.

[D Spares & Tyres]

If all else fails I would cover the rear screen in parcel tape then smash it. Should be easy enough to find a screen. Certainly easier than cutting up the rear panel!

[Skizzer]

Your logic is good, but breaking the screen won't help - all that would do is give better access to chopping up the parcel shelf, which I'm not going to do. If it did help, I could remove the screen non-destructively (with luck) by unsealing the seal.

 

The parcel shelf is a substantial thing that sits between the tailgate lock/latch and the world above, and is held down by the tailgate frame and the immovable rear seat back. There are no access shortcuts that don't involve cutting metal, except possibly picking or drilling the lock if (big if) that's where the fault is.

[Bren]

Series 1 tailgate glass is difficult to obtain.

[Skizzer]

Series 1 tailgate glass is difficult to obtain.

Yes, that too, which doesn't surprise me. The seals are too. I'm not going to destroy anything I don't have a replacement for, right there in the flesh next to me.

 

 

I've run out of weekend now so it'll have to wait. I suspect I'll just ignore the problem until I've lined up someone to do the various bits of bodywork tidying it needs.

[cort16]

You can defo get the rear seat base off it just takes a lot of effort to get it past the arm rest.

 

This video might be useful although you can't tip the back seat forward.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rRGCSQUdrL4

[Hertz]

How about getting in from underneath? Is there space between the spare wheel well and fuel tank? Be easier to cut out a piece of boot floor to get to the lock then re-weld it back in again? I suppose thinking about it if the SD1 has a plush boot carpet it might catch fire though...

[trigger]

Annoyingly mine isn't at home so I can't even get any photos that might help.

[beko1987]

You could perform a test cut so skiz does it right first time?

[DeeJay]

Couple of discreet holes in the parcel shelf then pop these babies in.

 

 

 

Factory.

[Bren]

If it were mine I would get into boot and apply pressure from inside while somebody works lock from outside.

 

Cutting and breaking things is a non starter.

[M'coli]

It's the getting into the boot in any shape or form that's the problem - there's no way of dropping the rear seats except from inside the boot...

[Bren]

On mine I can get my fingers between seat and shelf and move lever to drop seat.

[mk2_craig]

Chop out a bit of the rear panel a few mm smaller than the rear number plate sounds like the beat option so far, assuming theres absolutely nothing that can be done with the lock to solve the problem. Only other suggestion, is there any chance of jemmying the seat latches with a screwdriver/credit card/crowbar?

[richardthestag]

looking through other threads, the rear seat back hinges can be seen either side on the rear wheelarch

 

check out this pic from RR http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/201402/kelvinators-sd1-vitesse

 

this link goes direct to a thread with loads of pics of the boot lock and mechanism

 

 

how about undoing the hinge and pivoting the seat back upwards on the locked top pins? might give you enough room to see what is going on with the lock

[richardthestag]

also, looking at the tailgate lock parts on rimmerbros it does look like a drill through the handle would give you access to the lever on the tailgate latch. no loss if you have to replace the handle anyway due to siezedness of it

 

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID009056

 

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-JRC4784

[wuvvum]

 I also find one-make/model clubs very scary, which I dare say is unfair but that’s just me.

I can assure you it isn't just you.