Skizzer's SD1: Tomorrow's Car, Yesterday. Fixerations, with mixed results

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

When I had the exact same problem on the P6, I could turn the engine using a spanner on the alternator after temporarily over-tightening the belt. 

[Skizzer]

When I had the exact same problem on the P6, I could turn the engine using a spanner on the alternator after temporarily over-tightening the belt.

I'm liking that idea. I might even get a new fan belt while I'm adjusterising, as this one doesn't look to be in the first flush of youth.

[Dave_Q]

I'm not entirely clear on how imperial sockets work, but I'd say that one is around 7/19ths of a furlong.

[They_all_do_that_sir]

If practical lift front wheels, put it in gear and turn using a bar across the wheel nuts?

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[They_all_do_that_sir]

If practical lift front wheels, put it in gear and turn using a bar across the wheel nuts?

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Edited to say this being RWD I don't know how easy this would be....alternatively roll it down the drive in first till it lines up....

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[Skizzer]

Yup, that could be an option, although I think I'd have more joy with the rear wheels

 

The Rancho is monopolising all my axle stands at the moment, but it won't break me to buy another pair and they're useful to have.

[Captain Furious]

I've always gone with 4th gear, handbrake off and nudge the car back and forth until the engine is in the spot I want it (e.g. When doing valve clearances)

 

You can be surprisingly precise and although I'm usually working in much lighter beasts than the SD1, it's fairly easy in the higher gears.

[mat_the_cat]

Thanks chaps, I'll persevere with trying to get a socket on it unless anyone else comes up with a better plan. Good to know I'm not going mad and missing something obvious.

 

God only knows what size socket fits, the odds of me having the right Whitworth deep socket or extension bar combo might be even worse than starter motor roulette.

 

15/16" on yours, or near enough 24 mm. Mine is an odd one, which needed a 34 mm deep socket to get to it but AFAIK, those are the only 2 sizes.

 

[Bren]

Socket and extension will do the job - I also turned mine via the alternator pulley.

[Richard]

I've always turned the crank by moving the car in a high gear.

[Dave_Q]

On FWD cars I have previously jacked up one front wheel and used that to turn the engine through the magic of differential.

 

More difficult with RWD, need a decent chock type thing for the front wheels.

[For Fiats Sake]

Having been an SD1 owner in the past I can say that unless the car is on level flat smooth ground you'll never budge the bugger whilst in gear by yerself!

 

Ask me how I know.

[Guest Hooli]

Having been an SD1 owner in the past I can say that unless the car is on level flat smooth ground you'll never budge the bugger whilst in gear by yerself!

 

Ask me how I know.

 

Take the plugs out first.

[Pete-M]

I normally spin them from the other end of the crank

[Skizzer]

FOOKIN' A.

 

 

Thanks for all the advice: rolling it forward in 4th gear with the plugs out did the job in about five minutes, once I'd figured out a chocking arrangement to stop it rolling back to where I started from:

 

 

That's the broom handle bonnet stay from the XJ-S, no longer required since I fitted some genuine BL gas struts. Until they start sagging too.

 

Update shortly when I hit the next basic junior apprentice problem. (Shite fixing LIVE!)

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

I'm liking that idea. I might even get a new fan belt while I'm adjusterising, as this one doesn't look to be in the first flush of youth.

 

 

 

It's s 28/32 AF Colonial Twatworth FFS. 

 

Alternative No 4 is a stout screwdriver in the ring gear teeth and edge it round.

[Skizzer]

Hmm, with crank pulley at TDC (see incontrovertible photographic evidence above), rotor arm is pointing at number 6, which is supposed to fire fifth not first.

 

* sigh *

[Noel Tidybeard]

time to play musical chairs with the leads

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

Double check it's TDC on the compression stroke, not exhaust. 

[Skizzer]

Double check it's TDC on the compression stroke, not exhaust.

 

Ah.

 

As long as i put it back the way I found it, all will be well though, right?

 

We'll find out once I've soldered on some spade connectors.

 

[Guest Hooli]

Yip if it pointed at 6 when you took it out, then point it to 6 again when you put it back.

[Skizzer]

Holy Mary and Patrick - IT WORKS!!!

 

trim.6246A55D-A38C-4CDE-B252-5B1311E4664B.MOV

 

I'm declaring victory on that and going home for my tea.

[Guest Breadvan72]

Hero of car fixage!

 

Skizzer, earlier:-

 

 

[Guest Breadvan72]

This is more my level -

 

 

[Guest Breadvan72]

Straight six technique -

 

 

[Isaac Hunt]

Lovin the SD1, looks mint inside and almost mint outside.  Proper V8 Burbleage

[Skizzer]

Thanks - the inside is very lovely, the outside is good from 10 feet away (or so). A certain amount of filler may* be involved in the wings. It's pretty solid though and very low mileage (40-odd k) and it's easy to work on so I love it to bits.

[Guest Breadvan72]

I have druv this car and can confirm that it is supa-ace.

[Skizzer]

Finally spring has arrived and I had a whole day off work yesterday for the first time in ages, so I've been out and about in the Rover.  

 

First sunny weekend (Rover 3500 SD1) by Skizzer, on Flickr

 

The timing is still a bit off following the distributor replacement.  It idles ok but is a bit hesitant when pulling or cruising at low revs; then it's fine (joyous, in fact) from about 3500rpm upwards.  Stale fuel won't be helping but first suspect is the timing.  My Timestrobe (which belonged to my father and so must be at least 30 years old, probably more like 40) isn't lighting up the barely-visible timing marks clearly enough so I need to attack the crank with some Tippex to show up TDC better.  

 

Also the vacuum thingy on the new dizzy fouls the radiator top hose mounting so it appears it won't rotate far enough round.  Are all Intermotor parts somehow wrong/broken/shit, or have I just been unlucky?

[Guest Breadvan72]

MOAR FOATARZE PLIZ