Looking at a 2000 ish Fiesta - any one any advise?

[Anglevan]

As title Mrs Anglevan is getting fed up of driving the Fiesta MK2 pop that I rebuilt a few years ago and wants a few luxurys over just a wind down window and 2 speed fan.

 

As such Mk2 Festa pop will be up for sale along with a Mk2 XR2 I have - with the proceeds i'm looking at getting a 2000ish Fiesta, the last of the face lift before the boxy shape one.

 

I'm looking at a ghia or zetec (by eck the misses wont know what to do with the extra gizmos !!) 1.2 petrol (don't want a diesel)

 

I'm not bothered about rot etc - as I know they suffer as most fords of the period do - it's more what to look for mechanically / any issues I need to be looking at / what are they like emissions wise / car tax.

 

I'm sure fellow shitters may be able to assist - and if any one wants a restored Mk2 pop or a XR2 let me know as they will be going on ebay very soon...

 

And yes it has to be a fiesta as she wont drive owt else (although does like the Puma which is just a Fiesta in drag anyway)

[Anglevan]

As title Mrs Anglevan is getting fed up of driving the Fiesta MK2 pop that I rebuilt a few years ago and wants a few luxurys over just a wind down window and 2 speed fan.

 

As such Mk2 Festa pop will be up for sale along with a Mk2 XR2 I have - with the proceeds i'm looking at getting a 2000ish Fiesta, the last of the face lift before the boxy shape one.

 

I'm looking at a ghia or zetec (by eck the misses wont know what to do with the extra gizmos !!) 1.2 petrol (don't want a diesel)

 

I'm not bothered about rot etc - as I know they suffer as most fords of the period do - it's more what to look for mechanically / any issues I need to be looking at / what are they like emissions wise / car tax.

 

I'm sure fellow shitters may be able to assist - and if any one wants a restored Mk2 pop or a XR2 let me know as they will be going on ebay very soon...

 

And yes it has to be a fiesta as she wont drive owt else (although does like the Puma which is just a Fiesta in drag anyway)

[trigger]

I don't think there's much to look for TBH, like you say, rot is the biggest thing, rear arches and sills take a beating but other then that they are pretty bullet prove, the 1.25's are a hoot to drive and make sure it has power steering, it's hard work with out even though it's a small car.

[trigger]

I don't think there's much to look for TBH, like you say, rot is the biggest thing, rear arches and sills take a beating but other then that they are pretty bullet prove, the 1.25's are a hoot to drive and make sure it has power steering, it's hard work with out even though it's a small car.

[beko1987]

My Pooma was 2001, and it was rusty as faaark! (Same-ish floorpan I think) As above, check for rust in the usual places, as well as the floorpan near the sill (mine had big random rust blotches when I lifted the carpet), the spare wheel cage (mine was gone around the bolts) and anywhere else!

 

A mate had an S plate 1.25, and it screamed us to devon and back twice, as well as being driven hard and badly by my friend and it didn't die. Rear headroom is an issue if you are 6ft2 and heavily (230 miles at 3am)fucking pissed. Smoking out the back windows is pointless above 40 too, you get covered in ash.

 

I'd say as long as it isn't rusty, and has ok oil in the engine, it's a good-un. Or better than others

 

HTH!

[beko1987]

My Pooma was 2001, and it was rusty as faaark! (Same-ish floorpan I think) As above, check for rust in the usual places, as well as the floorpan near the sill (mine had big random rust blotches when I lifted the carpet), the spare wheel cage (mine was gone around the bolts) and anywhere else!

 

A mate had an S plate 1.25, and it screamed us to devon and back twice, as well as being driven hard and badly by my friend and it didn't die. Rear headroom is an issue if you are 6ft2 and heavily (230 miles at 3am)fucking pissed. Smoking out the back windows is pointless above 40 too, you get covered in ash.

 

I'd say as long as it isn't rusty, and has ok oil in the engine, it's a good-un. Or better than others

 

HTH!

[Anglevan]

Cheers for the replies and yes I do want power steering - was this standard on the ghias ?

As stated the rot dosn't concern me as i'm handy with the welder although I will pay above the odds if I can find a minter..

 

This was the mk2 Fiesta I did up and the one soon to be for sale

 

http://www.autoshite.co.uk/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11267&hilit=fiesta+pop+anglevan&sid=c6b7e06ea516e6be7bbbf10441c38aed

 

 

I'd heard the engines were ok hence why I wanted the 1.2 petrol --

[Anglevan]

Cheers for the replies and yes I do want power steering - was this standard on the ghias ?

As stated the rot dosn't concern me as i'm handy with the welder although I will pay above the odds if I can find a minter..

 

This was the mk2 Fiesta I did up and the one soon to be for sale

 

http://www.autoshite.co.uk/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11267&hilit=fiesta+pop+anglevan&sid=c6b7e06ea516e6be7bbbf10441c38aed

 

 

I'd heard the engines were ok hence why I wanted the 1.2 petrol --

[trigger]

My mum's was a 1.25 which is jointly made with Yamaha IIRC and it's a revy little thing, goes well and was never any problem. Just remember to change the cambelt.

[trigger]

My mum's was a 1.25 which is jointly made with Yamaha IIRC and it's a revy little thing, goes well and was never any problem. Just remember to change the cambelt.

[Albert Ross]

Corrosion on rear arches and sills (if it has a sunroof, these drain into the sill and turn them to teabags within minutes) Heater control valves. Watch for plastic coolant pipes cracking and leaking. Lower arm bushes pop out, balljoints are a bit shit. ARB links rattle like twats. Gearboxes leak oil from the flange seal..... either strip out and reseal, or nip up well tight! Cats can fail, and are part of the manifold, and a bit of a twat to get to. Trims and other things seems fairly robust. Except wheels don't take too kindly to kerbing, and end up buckled where other wheels would scratch... I liked mine... 1242 16V wins over the cast iron 8V any day. Avoid the 8V. They're just plain shit.

[Albert Ross]

Corrosion on rear arches and sills (if it has a sunroof, these drain into the sill and turn them to teabags within minutes) Heater control valves. Watch for plastic coolant pipes cracking and leaking. Lower arm bushes pop out, balljoints are a bit shit. ARB links rattle like twats. Gearboxes leak oil from the flange seal..... either strip out and reseal, or nip up well tight! Cats can fail, and are part of the manifold, and a bit of a twat to get to. Trims and other things seems fairly robust. Except wheels don't take too kindly to kerbing, and end up buckled where other wheels would scratch... I liked mine... 1242 16V wins over the cast iron 8V any day. Avoid the 8V. They're just plain shit.

[meggersdog]

If the zetec engine sounds like the little ends are rattling it's the conrod moving in the crank.Apart from what Albert has mentioned the rear swing arm bushes can knock just as much as the anti-rollbar links.Replacing them can be a pain unless you fit poly bushes as they come in two halves.

[meggersdog]

If the zetec engine sounds like the little ends are rattling it's the conrod moving in the crank.Apart from what Albert has mentioned the rear swing arm bushes can knock just as much as the anti-rollbar links.Replacing them can be a pain unless you fit poly bushes as they come in two halves.

[Mike D]

Ooh hit me up with some info and prices for both the fezzii please Anglevan, I'm a sucker for a mk2!

[Mike D]

Ooh hit me up with some info and prices for both the fezzii please Anglevan, I'm a sucker for a mk2!

[Albert Ross]

Also, there are three distinct types around Yr 2000. Lozenge light, narrow rubbing strip. Big "Chinese Eye" light and narrow rubbing strip, and big light, fat rubbing strip. The middle one is the best one. Late '99 to mid/late 2000. Better early internal trim and better (later) lighting. The early lamps were shit in anything darker than your average clothes shop, and the later trim is cheap and comes unstitched (well that's my experience of it all)

[Albert Ross]

Also, there are three distinct types around Yr 2000. Lozenge light, narrow rubbing strip. Big "Chinese Eye" light and narrow rubbing strip, and big light, fat rubbing strip. The middle one is the best one. Late '99 to mid/late 2000. Better early internal trim and better (later) lighting. The early lamps were shit in anything darker than your average clothes shop, and the later trim is cheap and comes unstitched (well that's my experience of it all)

[garycox]

I like the 'Mk3' shape Fiestas, I had an actual Mk3 (L reg 1.1 LX) and it was great, only cost £100 with T&T, and went well until he head gasket went at 124k.

 

My brother had an S reg 'sad face' one, 1.4 Ghia X. That was mega reliable too. He sold it for some reason to buy an 05 Peugeot 206 GTI, which has been nothing but trouble (obv).

 

I think the 'big light' later ones look miles better, and apart from rust around the arches/filler cap/everywhere else the oily bits don't seem to give any trouble.

 

I'd recommend one.

[garycox]

I like the 'Mk3' shape Fiestas, I had an actual Mk3 (L reg 1.1 LX) and it was great, only cost £100 with T&T, and went well until he head gasket went at 124k.

 

My brother had an S reg 'sad face' one, 1.4 Ghia X. That was mega reliable too. He sold it for some reason to buy an 05 Peugeot 206 GTI, which has been nothing but trouble (obv).

 

I think the 'big light' later ones look miles better, and apart from rust around the arches/filler cap/everywhere else the oily bits don't seem to give any trouble.

 

I'd recommend one.

[phil_lihp]

They're cracking little cars, as said above they rot like any other older Ford. Front suspension bushes wear and knock, the 1.25 Zetec does not take kindly to missed oil changes or the wrong oil being used and as a result will start to wear very fast - a combination of both saw my sister's W-reg Mk5 1.25 begin to drink enormous quantities of oil (several litres in under 150 miles) followed by blowing a valve seal on the motorway a few days later which consigned it to the scrapyard at 120k miles. If looked after, however, they're pretty reliable and will go on much longer than that. I've owned a Mk4 which is the same car underneath and known people who've owned Mk5 and Mk4s and they've all been fun to drive and very reliable but hard to keep on top of the rust once it sets in.

[phil_lihp]

They're cracking little cars, as said above they rot like any other older Ford. Front suspension bushes wear and knock, the 1.25 Zetec does not take kindly to missed oil changes or the wrong oil being used and as a result will start to wear very fast - a combination of both saw my sister's W-reg Mk5 1.25 begin to drink enormous quantities of oil (several litres in under 150 miles) followed by blowing a valve seal on the motorway a few days later which consigned it to the scrapyard at 120k miles. If looked after, however, they're pretty reliable and will go on much longer than that. I've owned a Mk4 which is the same car underneath and known people who've owned Mk5 and Mk4s and they've all been fun to drive and very reliable but hard to keep on top of the rust once it sets in.

[face]

I had a 1.25 Fiesta new back in 2001. It was a 'Freestyle' model, which added nice chunky alloys, rev counter, electric windows, central locking and mine had AC.

 

A cracking little car - sweet engine, smooth gear-change and decent handling.

 

I wouldn't think twice about having another.

[face]

I had a 1.25 Fiesta new back in 2001. It was a 'Freestyle' model, which added nice chunky alloys, rev counter, electric windows, central locking and mine had AC.

 

A cracking little car - sweet engine, smooth gear-change and decent handling.

 

I wouldn't think twice about having another.

[Bren]

Still a lot of them about, most of them dented and rusty. Worth paying a bit over the odds for a good one with history.

 

Cambelt is 100k or 10 years. Watch for noisy clutch, especially if car has been owned by an old giffer who used to ride the pedal.

 

Thermostat housings leak, all plastic, around £20 for a new one and not too bad to fit - drain coolant and remove alternator and you can get to it.

 

We have had ours for just over 12 months, a 51 plate 1.25 ghia zetec S. Bought with 44k form new with full history - we paid £1250 for the car from a private ad on fleabay. Elec front windows and aircon - povo spec fiestas are'nt much fun.

 

Has been a good little car, due for it's first timing belt, a couple of bubbles coming through on the rear arches which I will attack in spring, Nippy around town, if a little buzzy on the motorway.

[Bren]

Still a lot of them about, most of them dented and rusty. Worth paying a bit over the odds for a good one with history.

 

Cambelt is 100k or 10 years. Watch for noisy clutch, especially if car has been owned by an old giffer who used to ride the pedal.

 

Thermostat housings leak, all plastic, around £20 for a new one and not too bad to fit - drain coolant and remove alternator and you can get to it.

 

We have had ours for just over 12 months, a 51 plate 1.25 ghia zetec S. Bought with 44k form new with full history - we paid £1250 for the car from a private ad on fleabay. Elec front windows and aircon - povo spec fiestas are'nt much fun.

 

Has been a good little car, due for it's first timing belt, a couple of bubbles coming through on the rear arches which I will attack in spring, Nippy around town, if a little buzzy on the motorway.

[Cavcraft]

Rust, rattles and dire interiors. Reliable, cheap to run and easy to maintain though. As with anything else, if you and/or the missus likes it that's all that matters.

[Cavcraft]

Rust, rattles and dire interiors. Reliable, cheap to run and easy to maintain though. As with anything else, if you and/or the missus likes it that's all that matters.

[Ben_L]

1.25 engine can easily start chucking out white smoke and HGF signs for no apparent reason. Also, the 1.25 is only artificially faster than the 1.3, as Ford throttled the 1.3 engine back to be slower than the 1.25 (By sticking a throttle restrictor in to the mix). 1.3 seems more economical, bomb proof and has no timing belt.

 

Make sure the heater works, if it's stuck on hot all the time it's not so much of an issue, but sticking on cold indicates a broken thermostat.

 

Even when tracked properly, they're tyre hungry. 155/13" wheels buckle easily, so watch out for wheel wobble and mishapen tyres.

 

Damp carpets can mean that the bung under the bonnet has gone crispy and needs replacing/sealing.

 

Wishbones/Front suspension in general can fail often.

 

Non-PAS models are fine as long as the tyre pressures and geometry/suspension are all in order. Don't buy the first one you see if it's not spot on, and try to avoid the 1.25 unless it's absolutely solid (Any rattles/knocks/smoke/steam etc) walk away.

[Ben_L]

1.25 engine can easily start chucking out white smoke and HGF signs for no apparent reason. Also, the 1.25 is only artificially faster than the 1.3, as Ford throttled the 1.3 engine back to be slower than the 1.25 (By sticking a throttle restrictor in to the mix). 1.3 seems more economical, bomb proof and has no timing belt.

 

Make sure the heater works, if it's stuck on hot all the time it's not so much of an issue, but sticking on cold indicates a broken thermostat.

 

Even when tracked properly, they're tyre hungry. 155/13" wheels buckle easily, so watch out for wheel wobble and mishapen tyres.

 

Damp carpets can mean that the bung under the bonnet has gone crispy and needs replacing/sealing.

 

Wishbones/Front suspension in general can fail often.

 

Non-PAS models are fine as long as the tyre pressures and geometry/suspension are all in order. Don't buy the first one you see if it's not spot on, and try to avoid the 1.25 unless it's absolutely solid (Any rattles/knocks/smoke/steam etc) walk away.