Jump to content

Shite in Miniature II


Recommended Posts

Posted

Found the Lada bumpers and lights... 

 

post-26798-0-15051200-1552402527_thumb.jpg

post-26798-0-67060500-1552402555_thumb.jpg

 

Think it needs a strip down and repaint as paint is a bit thick in places

Posted

. However, I also ordered a replacement tailgate for this, and on the trial fit the lugs snapped. Their metal parts are 'ok', but you have to be very careful indeed.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20190312_104759~2.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_20190312_104747~2.jpg

 

bugger,.....

 

Yes unfortunately they are only white metal not up to Lesney die-cast standards.  I have successfully (but painstakingly) super-glued a small piece of cocktail stick in place - the pointy end - and painted over it.  Trial it with sellotape to get the location right.   It won't be strong but will look OK

Posted

to fit those it's best to stretch the opposing part if you can and squish it back together afterwards if needed, usually something like the tipper can be stretch a bit by wedging a wood or plastic block in that's a little too wide, ease the new part in, then remove the block and it should spring back to the original shape.  Awkward, however you go about it really.

 

For fitting new pins to things like this, if you line up the part and then poke a pin through from the outside and glue it in place, you can trim the excess wire/stick off once the glue has fully set.  That reduces the risk of stress throwing it across the room the freshly repaired bit being misaligned or breaking off on installation.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks both, I was rushing, which is always fatal with any diecast repair, I'll try the tips. At least the metal parts are very cheap.

Posted

Well I've painted it black and wedged it in, that's not so bad...

 

post-20084-0-91211600-1552485040_thumb.jpg

Posted

4CV update today since I've made some progress on it.  I used Rustoleum paint for this, not something I've used on plastic kits before, though I have used it on diecast stuff.  It seems to take a very long time to cure on the plastic parts unless you leave them in sunlight for a day, I'm not sure why that would be.  On the plus side, once the paint has cured it's harder to sand through than the acrylic Halfords and Humbrol that I usually use for this sort of work so there's much less risk of sanding too far.  I've been working around the car sanding back areas that look right, and trying not to be too heavy handed.  It's a difficult challenge, you have to really think about what areas are going to actually get wear, and why, and not just go gung ho all over everything.

 

post-5335-0-31307900-1552486664_thumb.jpg

 

Prototype hinges for the opening parts seemed to work well initially.  Prop is just a spare bit of wire here, not a permanent solution.  I took on Junkman's suggestion and instead of using a rubber band/elastic (I had nothing to hand thin enough), I used some jewellers pins, with the head serving as stops on the blind side so you can't just pull the panel straight off.  The stem of the pin is slightly bent to conform to the shape required and glued to the underside of the panel.  It's really difficult to get it all lined up.

post-5335-0-78480700-1552486820_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-61789900-1552486829_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-80969500-1552486836_thumb.jpg

 

Unfortunately, in the process of taking the photographs I found the design was flawed and the pins simply came unglued from the panels, so I'm back to the drawing board on this one.  I might make just chop the head off the pins so they serve as locating tangs for the panels, rather than operating hinges, though that would be a shame since I'd like to have these operational if I can figure it out.  All part of the learning process.  The next stage after this will be a wash of black to add the first layer of dirt on the car.  I've attempted to make the wear consistent with a one-person car, so there's more wear on the driver's side than the passenger side, more on the top of the driver's door from an arm being rested there, and from grabbing it to shut the door when the window is open.  Likewise there's a big patch on the roof where the paint has worn thin, and bits on the wings, frunk, and engine lid where they'd most likely be leaned against and opened and shut over its long lifetime.  The passenger side by comparison has minimal wear to try and reflect the lack of use it would get.

post-5335-0-03476000-1552487179_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-42245700-1552487179_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-74460200-1552487179_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-06283500-1552487180_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-31997700-1552487180_thumb.jpg

 

post-5335-0-64701400-1552487180_thumb.jpg

 

Lots still to do.  It's shaping up nicely so far. What I haven't shown is that the interior has also had the body colour bits painted, which was a feat of fiddly masking.  The interior will be fairly clean, notable wear probably restricted to dirt on the driver's seat and the paint having worn through on the steering wheel, I may add some detritus like a small wooden apple crate on the back seat.  The idea with this one is that it's just a car that's been used as transport for a few decades, cherished only for its dependancy and familiarity rather than because the owner-driver sees any real monetary value in the thing.

 

 

Posted

Some Trivia...

 

Is it true that the first 4CVs produced were painted with leftover German Afrika Korps yellow or Panzergrau paint, or is it an urban legend?

Well, unlike so many other legends that grew around the German occupation of France, it is true.

Posted

Probably accounts for their excellent survival period....

Posted

I want to model my full size one

 

post-17940-0-98674000-1552501246_thumb.jpg

 

 

A drawing

 

post-17940-0-03108800-1552501090_thumb.jpg

 

 

A Tamiya  bodyshell 

 

post-17940-0-09811200-1552501109_thumb.jpg

 

 

A kids toy  Pajero , about 1/ 32

 

post-17940-0-73470200-1552501123_thumb.jpg

 

post-17940-0-63699400-1552501140_thumb.jpg

 

What would i use to build up the back into a hardtop version ?  3mm ali , plasticard , balsa ? Cast some white metal  ? All ideas considered ! 

 

Posted

This any use? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NINCO-50314-slot-car-1-32-Mitsubishi-Pajero-Khrol-4-X-4-OFF-ROAD/173830453436 If the scale is close enough you should be able to do a full or partial body swap with the yellow example.  For the rear windows, you can use a variety of small tools to cut out where the window recess is and then replace it with any clear plastic for the glass.

Posted

That link comes up as error , but I think that's a mk 3 Paj. . and like you , it mustn't cost ££ !   I'm thinking  i'm going to use some 3mm aluminium plate , and mill out the windows .I do have a small milling machine.. then bend it and screw it together , then file it to shape

  • Like 2
Posted

I had a no-name Chevy Chevette which I picked up new in the early '90s and may or may not have been based on the Kidco casting, though it featured opening doors. Like so many of my diecast, it was inflicted with my silver-paint attentions.

 

attachicon.gif20180620_171947 (2).jpg

 

I think it went to 155V6 of this parish, along with many more weird and wonderful diecast oddballs.

 

 

Also had the Hot Wheels drag strip version, part of the Flying Customs range, but never had it out of the box. Think JunkyardDog got this 'un?

 

attachicon.gifHot Wheels Flying Customs Chevrolet Chevette.jpg

[Stock pic][/background.

Dug out the other Chevrolet Chevette looks the same as the Yellow one. It's a old yatming casting from the base as it's stamped with there logo that I brought as a kid in the 90's repackaged by Road Tough?

 

post-3802-0-48851800-1552504030_thumb.jpg

 

Comparing it against the Kidco version I'd say they could be diffrent castings. The Kidco looks to have slightly bigger side windows and the grille is part of the plastic base.

 

post-3802-0-43004500-1552504346_thumb.jpg

 

post-3802-0-49001900-1552504392_thumb.jpg

 

post-3802-0-48136200-1552504412_thumb.jpg

 

post-3802-0-39134900-1552504461_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Christine: your assumption was correct.  I must have missed a bit of the link.  It's probably easier to make a pre-made part look right with modifications than it is to scratch build since you've some subtle curves to contend with rather than just building a literal box.  Look forward to seeing how you get on with it.

Posted

If you’re willing to build a plastic kit, Aoshima make one that looks pretty nice in photos

 

78c9ab59b43a.jpg

Posted

That Mondeo BTCC looks great. Brings back happy memories of watching these race on the telly.

 

Need to get myself a Vanguards MK3 Capri at some point. My Uncle use to have a 1.6 LS in White with a Black Vinyl Roof when I was a kid. Always use to admire it when we visted, got resprayed twice due to the rust. Got replaced by a Mk1 Sierra Estate. Was proper gutted when I found out!

Posted

I thought the mondeo did too, it was £9.50 posted off ebay, didn't even look at the listing, saw one picture and bought it. Turned out ok as it was brand new and came in 2 days

Posted

I am goung to have another clear out tomorrow, will be 1/43 stuff. A couple of Gaz Transitskis will be up for grabs, and a USSR made RAF Latvia minibus for starters... Will do a ForceNail FRED when sorted.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 3/13/2019 at 7:15 PM, Burnside said:

Dug out the other Chevrolet Chevette looks the same as the Yellow one. It's a old yatming casting from the base as it's stamped with there logo that I brought as a kid in the 90's repackaged by Road Tough?

attachicon.gif20190313_190101.jpg

Comparing it against the Kidco version I'd say they could be diffrent castings. The Kidco looks to have slightly bigger side windows and the grille is part of the plastic base.

attachicon.gif20190313_185637.jpg

attachicon.gif20190313_185706.jpg

attachicon.gif20190313_185752.jpg

attachicon.gif20190313_185928.jpg

Funny, I think the yellow version I had might be slightly different again from the red one - the headlights and grille were all part of the black plastic base moulding on the yellow example, whereas your red Yatming/Road Tough version seems to have a metal grille cast as part of the body and separate silver headlights.

The rear of the yellow one was also fairly detailed, as I recall, with ribbed tail lights and a licence plate cast into it - the red one (and blue Kidco example) looks a fair bit smoother at the rump.

The box looks quite familiar, though - the sort of thing I would have picked up in campsite shops while away on holiday.

Amazing to find so many variations of the same car.

Posted
On 3/14/2019 at 7:28 AM, Felly Magic said:

I am goung to have another clear out tomorrow, will be 1/43 stuff. A couple of Gaz Transitskis will be up for grabs, and a USSR made RAF Latvia minibus for starters... Will do a ForceNail FRED when sorted.

Iiiiinterest.jpg

(as long as they're ones I don't have already!)

Posted

Will poost photos up in a new FRED

  • Like 2
Posted

OK, I'll put it on the long list, one I'll get round to!

 

I like this guys restos. 

 

Posted

I bought two of these from Eddy. One is stripped for painting, but this one has just had a Sharpie nosejob and is keeping its patina. I might give the other one some luggage to carry.

 

Did matchbox only ever make two Morris models - this and the Minor? 

post-20084-0-76022600-1552592078_thumb.jpg
post-20084-0-95450400-1552592091_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...