The problem with K-series ...

[Station]

Rebuilt engine, new everything, months of fitting the engine properly.

 

Less than 500 miles later, the head gasket gives up.

 

 

The question is, 'Can I face changing a K-series for the fourth time in 1 year?' with the off-putting technicality of 'polishing a turd'? We do not have another car, and while the car hasn't and doesn't overheat (yet), we'll have to keep a bottle of water in the boot, not that the car is pleasant to drive, but what can you do?

 

The engine had an MLS gasket, an uprated oil rail and new head bolts. Should I have used blue tack instead?

The coolant is leaking from the side of the head (exhaust manifold side). There's nothing on the other side, there's no mayonaise in the oil at all. The engine runs terribly, so there must be leakage into the cylinder? I think this has started recently, and got worse. I think I suspect white steam from the exhaust, which is never did until today.

[Rod/b]

Has it been losing coolant?

[254575]

are you sure it isnt the inlet manifold gasket? when they go they leak water into cylinders.

[Station]

The inlet manifold gasket is on the other side mr landys.

 

The coolant has been disappearing the past few days.

It does seem like it's challenging me, what with a new engine and all, it's never been right in four years.

 

I think it's -really- starting to leak now - this is about 15 minutes worth:

[254575]

The inlet manifold gasket is on the other side mr landys.

Not much leakage though. It does seem like it's challenging me, what with a new engine and all, it's never been right in four years.

 

my mistake, will teach me to actually look a bit closer at the pic next time.

[Rod/b]

Hasn't dropped or cracked a liner has it?

[Station]

Christ, don't say that (the last engine had that problem)! I honestly don't think it has, although I wouldn't be surprised if the entire contents of the engine just disappeared with no explanation.

[meggersdog]

Are you sure you fitted the multi-layer correctly.The black sticky gasket should only go on one surface but I can't remember if it goes on the block or the head (long time since I've done one).Leaking after 500 miles would suggest it's the wrong way round.

[Station]

A reliable, trustworthy mate did it for pence, I doubt he would've messed it up. But he has. I want a refund!

[Des]

Have you checked the whole cooling system? Could something like the radiator be silted up (with rust, radweld, kseal, eggwhites), does it get warm all over, thermostat present and correct, waterpump still has its impeller, fan cutting in and blowing the right way? A head gasket can go on any engine, in spite of everything being fine, but I've seen lot's of 'repeats' from the original cause, like fixing a puncture and leaving the nail in the tyre, you need to check basics.

Best one I ever did was a Renault Fuego some years ago, gasket had been changed an insane amount of times, everything cooling related was new, strip downs and pressure tests, but everytime the coolant would leak into the sump. I popped a pressure tester on and started dismantling, and 50p worth of coreplug under the rocker cover was pissing away.

Biggest problem with stuff made since the '80s is small coolant capacity and I think the pressures may be higher, (not that I want to know), so a small loss equals meltdown, I've been unlucky and had HGF from quite a few cars, and I've usually just loosened off the rad cap to prevent / cut down the annoying misfire when starting from cold, topped up at least monthly and repaired at my leisure, I think I've driven stuff as much as a year in that state.

[Father Ted]

[unhelpful comment mode]

pull it out and refit with the 1400cc 8v lump, they seem less prone to shedding the CHG, it'll be less inspiring to drive but also less fraught with water pissing out all over the floor/[unhelpful comment mode]

[Des]

If you decide to reverse engineer, do it proper like.

 

 

 

Or even better.

 

 

 

Perfection.

 

[Rod/b]

This might sound daft too, but have you replaced the header tank cap? They're shite and should be considered a service item. Only go for a genuine Rover one. PCD100160.

 

Either way, it's head-off time again.

[Station]

The car has been fine since, apart from it's poor running.

 

Anyone interested in a read up on the k-series, er, problems, can have a look here, it's quite interesting and explains all the factors of HGFâ„¢

 

http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/co ... o_hgfs.htm

 

(HGFâ„¢ owned by Rover group)

[Station]

At the start of the running problems, I bought a replacement rotor arm. This cured nothing.

 

Today the car completely had it's last and after 2 miles of pure kangaroo-adge, it cut out and wouldn't start. AA was called and a couple of checks, he replaced the rotor arm for a new one and it's finally working.

A fucking £5 rotor arm.

[ashmicro]

What price CLASS?

 

(£5 it would appear!)

 

Glad you got it sorted bro.

[Station]

He just charged £5, it was one he had in his van! Very relieved that problem is over!

[RobT]

I've recently had k-series issues, HG replacement but still overheating probs (1.4 8v engine). I kept bleeding the bleeder but no joy. I read about drilling a 3mm hole in the thermostat flange to assist with the coolant circulation and it worked, problem solved It'll probably take longer to warm up in winter but I can live with that.

[Des]

Has it got a rotor arm, they can leak the spark to earth, you can check this by holding the coil lead near the centre of the rotor and spinning over, should give you a good jolt rather than make a spark.

 

BACK OF THE NET!!!

[Rod/b]

I've recently had k-series issues, HG replacement but still overheating probs (1.4 8v engine). I kept bleeding the bleeder but no joy. I read about drilling a 3mm hole in the thermostat flange to assist with the coolant circulation and it worked, problem solved It'll probably take longer to warm up in winter but I can live with that.

 

That's surprising as the 8v K is usually fairly immune to HGF and the PRT thermostat isn't usually necessary on them. I'd be tempted to look again at that thermostat to make sure it's opening as intended, make sure the rad isn't blocked up and definitely put a new header cap on the tank.

[RobT]

I've recently had k-series issues, HG replacement but still overheating probs (1.4 8v engine). I kept bleeding the bleeder but no joy. I read about drilling a 3mm hole in the thermostat flange to assist with the coolant circulation and it worked, problem solved It'll probably take longer to warm up in winter but I can live with that.

 

That's surprising as the 8v K is usually fairly immune to HGF and the PRT thermostat isn't usually necessary on them. I'd be tempted to look again at that thermostat to make sure it's opening as intended, make sure the rad isn't blocked up and definitely put a new header cap on the tank.

 

Yes it's all been covered, new rad & cap, several new hoses, new plastic thermostat housing and three different 'stats just to be sure. When the head was off you could see where the gasket had failed, and it had some heavy pitting on it which meant I just managed to get away with a skim rather than a new head. Has run fine for the last two weeks since being fixed (touch wood).

 

As an aside, getting hold of a brand new radiator for a 1.4 with the CVT auto was very difficult - not the same as the manual one as you need a casing at the end with bold holes for the oil cooler.

[stuboy]

my scrapped his k series 214 as it just kept breaking down