1987 Ford Sierra Sapphire 1.8L - Completed it mate - see page 46

10,028 · February 20

10 hours ago, sierraman said:

I’d be inclined to no mask so closely, it’ll build a ridge up which you’ll have the devils own work cutting through.

Agreed.

This was just a localised trial area and I wanted the old and new paints side by side for comparison purposes.

3,610 · February 21

Looks very good . Going to try and take mine off the road for a few weeks for a bit of maintainance . At the moment it’s used every day 7 days a week. Keep up the good work!

14,085 · February 21

Strange desire to own a diesel Sapphire as my parents once rented one to go on summer holidays when I was wee.

It was the first diesel car we'd had and I remember being a huge novelty even though it was slow as a week in jail.

It seemed much more modern than my dad's Volvo 340.

24,001 · February 21

Soft mask - use wide tape and roll the edge of the masking tape back under on itself to make a like a "loop". The paint will then have a nice soft feathered edge over the space of a few MM. It makes a much less noticeable repair, and with a bit of compounding it'll blend in even better.

The guy in the video here is folding it fairly tight, but if you leave the fold very wide (10mm+) it gives an even softer edge

10,028 · February 21

Now that I have the bodywork situation under control, I wanted to spend a bit of special mid-week time in the garage and take a look at the engine side of things.

I removed the fan shroud, fan, thermostat and housing and water pump. All very easy, as you can imagine.

I want to replace the thermostat and water pump, mostly because the coolant that I drained today is old and smelly. I don't know what condition they are in but I figured that if I am doing the cam belt, I might as well do the other bits.

One problem. I can't separate the fan clutch from the water pump shaft. I've locked the pulley in a vice, by wrapping an old fan belt around the pulley and squeezing it tight in the vice but no matter how much effort I put in, I can't get the locking nut to budge. I don't even know which way it should turn to undo.

I'm now in two minds whether to put the water pump back in as it is, with a new gasket and hope for the best.

Any ideas how to loosen the nut?

February 21

1 minute ago, Peter C said:

Now that I have the bodywork situation under control, I wanted to spend a bit of special mid-week time in the garage and take a look at the engine side of things.

I removed the fan shroud, fan, thermostat and housing and water pump. All very easy, as you can imagine.

I want to replace the thermostat and water pump, mostly because the coolant that I drained today is old and smelly. I don't know what condition they are in but I figured that if I am doing the cam belt, I might as well do the other bits.

One problem. I can't separate the fan clutch from the water pump shaft. I've locked the pulley in a vice, by wrapping an old fan belt around the pulley and squeezing it tight in the vice but no matter how much effort I put in, I can't get the locking nut to budge. I don't even know which way it should turn to undo.

I'm now in two minds whether to put the water pump back in as it is, with a new gasket and hope for the best.

Any ideas how to loosen the nut?

Left hand thread?

February 21

1 minute ago, Low ontime said:

Left hand thread?

Well locked in Locking mole grips and a sharp hammer blow works if you don’t have the large spanner size req…

10,028 · February 21

12 minutes ago, Low ontime said:

Left hand thread?

Possibly.

10,028 · February 21

10 minutes ago, Low ontime said:

Well locked in Locking mole grips and a sharp hammer blow works if you don’t have the large spanner size req…

The gap between the back of the clutch and the pulley is quite narrow. I used an adjustable spanner as I don’t have the correct size one. I don’t even know what size it is.

3,153 · February 21

I made a special tool for that, very simple. I'll see if I can find it tomorrow evening.

10,028 · February 21

1 minute ago, lisbon_road said:

I made a special tool for that, very simple. I'll see if I can find it tomorrow evening.

Tell me more.

if you find it and can post it to me, I will pay p@p and post it back to you once I’m done with it.

February 22

Found this to assist…

3,153 · February 22

4 hours ago, Peter C said:

Tell me more.

if you find it and can post it to me, I will pay p@p and post it back to you once I’m done with it.

I most definitely won't want it back!

13,322 · February 22

Worth putting the impeller of the water pump in the vice given it’s getting replaced anyway?

10,028 · February 22

28 minutes ago, MorrisItalSLX said:

Worth putting the impeller of the water pump in the vice given it’s getting replaced anyway?

And if I don’t succeed in getting the clutch bolt off, I might end up with a knackered water pump!

3,812 · February 22

25 minutes ago, Peter C said:

And if I don’t succeed in getting the clutch bolt off, I might end up with a knackered water pump!

Surely there is no reason to take the fan clutch off unless you are going to replace the water pump?

Looking at the pumps on ebay, the shaft does appear to have a left hand thread.

10,028 · February 22

12 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

Surely there is no reason to take the fan clutch off unless you are going to replace the water pump?

My point precisely!

12 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

Looking at the pumps on ebay, the shaft does appear to have a left hand thread.

Left hand thread = turn clockwise to undo?

1,079 · February 22

It was many years since I last replaced a Pinto water pump, but I’m fairly sure the viscous coupling is to be loosened anti clockwise. I think I have a special tool for it, was readily available, at least back in the day.

1,079 · February 22

Can’t remember if it was 32 or 36 mm, but here’s one. https://www.micksgarage.com/d/thermo-viscus-wrenches/products/525075/draper-bmw-and-ford-32mm-thermo-viscous-fan-nut-wrench?loc=se&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA29auBhBxEiwAnKcSqtGZhmhVEYwbM5uibIg9b_b-p_wQ5aLGmLYv9p3mH4JJzk0ukbdxIRoCZ1sQAvD_BwE

3,812 · February 22

24 minutes ago, Peter C said:

My point precisely!

Left hand thread = turn clockwise to undo?

Is it a separate locknut, or it is a hex formed on the clutch hub?

If it is all one piece, then with a left hand thread the hub would undo clockwise. A locknut would have to be backed off anticlockwise. But if it doesn't need to come off, don't.

13,322 · February 22

1 hour ago, Peter C said:

And if I don’t succeed in getting the clutch bolt off, I might end up with a knackered water pump!

Fair point, it would be a commitment to completing the job!

10,028 · February 22

1 hour ago, Rightnider said:

It was many years since I last replaced a Pinto water pump, but I’m fairly sure the viscous coupling is to be loosened anti clockwise. I think I have a special tool for it, was readily available, at least back in the day.

If @lisbon_road doesn’t find his tool, could I borrow yours please?

3,153 · February 22

7 minutes ago, Peter C said:

If @lisbon_road doesn’t find his tool, could I borrow yours please?

My tool is a bit of lasered out steel that grips on the M6 screws on the front of the hub. It stops the hub rotating and you put a thin spanner in on the left hand thread of the coupling. It is a home made modified tool, though it definitely worked. I really don't want it now. I also have a Pinto tappet adjusting spanner which I suspect has spread a little, so if I send a parcel, we can put that in too. But if someone else has a better tool, get it, that's fine.

1,079 · February 22

2 hours ago, Peter C said:

If @lisbon_road doesn’t find his tool, could I borrow yours please?

I’d love to lend it to you, but I live in Sweden, shipping would be quite costly, I’m afraid.

10,028 · February 22

7 minutes ago, Rightnider said:

I’d love to lend it to you, but I live in Sweden, shipping would be quite costly, I’m afraid.

Don’t post it, pop over for a brew.

10,028 · February 22

2 hours ago, lisbon_road said:

My tool is a bit of lasered out steel that grips on the M6 screws on the front of the hub. It stops the hub rotating and you put a thin spanner in on the left hand thread of the coupling. It is a home made modified tool, though it definitely worked. I really don't want it now. I also have a Pinto tappet adjusting spanner which I suspect has spread a little, so if I send a parcel, we can put that in too. But if someone else has a better tool, get it, that's fine.

It seems there are currently no alternatives. If your offer stands, I would be pleased to receive another gift from you but on this occasion please let me contribute to p&p costs.

1,079 · February 22

9 minutes ago, Peter C said:

17 minutes ago, Rightnider said:

Don’t post it, pop over for a brew.

Good idea! 😀 I’ll just get the keys.

1,079 · February 22

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS0923-Viscous-Tool-36mm/dp/B001SFQTF6

Mine looks like this.

3,153 · February 22

8 minutes ago, Rightnider said:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS0923-Viscous-Tool-36mm/dp/B001SFQTF6

Mine looks like this.

You might still need that. All mine does is hold the hub while you undo it with something else.

I'll be embarrassed if I can't find the thing after all this build up.

February 22

If it is 36mm then that’s the same as old Land Rover defenders. Spanners for viscous couplings are readily available for these.

1987 Ford Sierra Sapphire 1.8L - Completed it mate - see page 46

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