project 2003 Audi TT Mk1 1.8T Quattro - Gone!

[SiC]

2 minutes ago, Nyphur said:

I do quite fancy one of these but I'm a hamfisted idiot and probably don't have the knowledge/patience to keep it going/sort the niggles.

Sounds like your one is getting better day by day, good work.

Rubbish! You sorted a whole bunch of weird issues in your Skoda and this, apart from the engine, is no more complex than that. You can forgive the little extra engine complexity from what it gives with the performance while still having economy. 

The engine is more complex but not really massively so. Just looks it with the amount of hoses everywhere. Most of them vacuum, as its gone from purely vacuum and mechanically controlling parts of the engine, to electro-mechanical control with solenoids. By the end of the decade (e.g. TT MK2/Golf Mk5/etc onwards) everything was mostly directly electronically controlled. But you can follow the path of these lines and figure where they go and what they do.

If they cause problems, it's not terribly difficult or expensive to just replace them all - kits are available. That was the next course of action if replacing the MAF didn't work. 

Or you just buy one that isn't sold as a project!

[SiC]

Mrs SiC made a comment when she got in this the other day that my knobs were broken and looked tatty.

Can't be having that, so I found a good used unit on eBay with "good knobs". I paid the same amount for this as many eBay sellers are asking for just the plastic covers. Presumably because people are scared at pulling out the control units from the dash. However I reckon it's more risky changing the plastic covers on the knobs. 

Also my climate unit is making a lot of noise from the air sampling fan. Usual problem on any older car with climate control tbh. Gets gummed up with fluff and shite.

 

To get the panel out, firstly the radio needs to come out.

Then the two metal arms on each side. These are just torx bolts.

Two torx by the radio now it's removed.

One screw to hold the ashtray assembly in. Then another one at the back.

With the outer trim completely removed, there are four torx around the display to remove. 

Bunch of connectors at the back to remove.

 

I checked the fan on the replacement unit to make sure it wasn't bunged up and it didn't work that well. Temperamental and occasionally not working at all. So nicked the fan off the original unit. I did consider just swapping the front panel but decided it was too much of a faff to get the dials off.

Original unit fan was obvious why it was noisy.

I chucked it on the PSU at 12v to make sure it span. Inside the unit it said 12v and the polarity is critical. 

New knobs make a surprising difference. Not least, tactically they are so much nicer to use.

As I don't know where this unit is from, I double checked the coding.

Recalibrated the flap end stops as it'll be different from the original car.

 

While I had VCDS plugged in, I checked the instruments. 

Segments it looks clear where it's not working. Enough is working for now to not fiddle with it just yet.

Needle positions were the key thing. They max out at the right place.

Then checked mid points are correct.

Also got a good used replacement gear gaiter on my desk ready to replace the ripped one in the car. Didn't need to but little things like this make a big difference. I was going to wait a bit to see if this proves to be a reliable car and prove itself. But I do quite like driving it enough that it's a bit of a keeper (unless I find a cheap V6!). Also helps that eBay had a 10% discount on used stuff recently to seal the deal.

[AndyIggs]

On 12/1/2022 at 2:14 PM, SiC said:

Okay a quick Google, that I should have done before. TADIS and especially seems more prone to when it's near freezing outside. Solution seems to be to scrape the wire inside the coolant tank that acts as the sensor as it gets crudded up. Looks like it measures the resistance across them to determine coolant capacity is sufficient or below the wire. 

Scraping them should at least save the cost of a new tank. Admittedly only a £14 part from GSF but stops another Nickel and Dime these age German cars are prone to doing.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/coolant-level-warning-light.191201/

This worked for mine, had the same issue.

[SiC]

As mentioned previously, the rubber is split on the gear stick. Gluing it worked for about 10 minutes and then it split again.

I removed the old and did a bit of knob scrubbing. Removed all the detritus stuck between all the crevasses. 

Then fitted. Looks far better than it did. It's the little things that make the difference.

 

I also attacked the wet foam again. The top is completely dry now but the underneath is still wet. I squidged the foam while running the wet vac. This got it just feeling damp rather than water being squished out.

It got some water but not as much as expected. Some I guess might have been ejected out through the motor though as vapour.

But it now good enough really for it to dry naturally. Also meant I could put the trim back together in the footwell and put the new mats in. These are £15 eBay specials. They also look and feel like £15 eBay specials...

However hopefully keep the worst of the crud out of the floor well. Audi car fabric is of the type which is pretty durable but dirt gets stuck deep into it. 

Also took the time to scrape the contacts in the coolant tank. You could feel the screwdriver scratching whatever is on it. So definitely something oxide on it. 

 

 

[SiC]

Off to see the in-laws today. I decided it would be a good idea to take this instead of the Civic and give it a good run out. It's at least a 200 mile round trip, so good way to get any kinks out and build up confidence.

£85 of super unleaded went in 😭

Next fill up will be with regular unleaded! I was going to this time but I didn't want to change any variables just before this long journey. 

Mileage did an interesting milestone. Of course it wasn't me taking this photo as that would be illegal.

Ending up averaging a smidge under 36mpg. Pretty acceptable. Would like it higher but it's revving at 3k rpm, so there is a limit you can at those revs. I also booted it a few times which wouldn't help.

It really could do with cruise control. The turbo is pretty quick at spinning up and you can drive it like a diesel. It does mean that it's hard to keep to a constant speed. At least I do after too used to driving with cruise.

 

Was about to say to Mrs SiC that it's been event free. Then the indicators decided they didn't want to flash anymore and stay on constantly. Not sure what this car thinks it is, but it's not 1970's British.

Anyway this is yet another common fault on these. Basically the hazard switch also does the indicating flash. The contacts inside get dirty and have a habit of sticking shut. It's this kind of thing that makes these cars flaky and troublesome. Take it to a garage/dealer and you're looking at £150 or so to replace it. You can pull them apart to clean it.

Instead I thought if contacts are sticking then maybe hitting the dash might work. Mrs SiC said it was a stupid idea and wouldn't work, as I started punching the dash. But low and behold it worked! I was just rewarded with a tutt from Mrs SiC for my ingenious idea.

[RoverFolkUs]

Laugh for the tutt from Mrs SiC

[SiC]

Came back this evening from doing over 210 miles in two days in this. In about 2 ½ weeks ownership I've done just over 300 miles or so. Not a lot for what I often do in cars but considering this spent it's first week or so up on axle stands, it's not too bad. 

Anyway it drove well for the mostly motorway journey. Seats are comfortable and the cabin is really quite cozy. The heated seats are very strong and the smaller cabin heats up quickly. Some moan about the small windows and heavily bolstered seats but we both quite like that as it makes you feel cocooned in and secure. 

It revs high at 3k/70mph in 6th - admittedly similar to our Civic. Unlike the Civic though, it's in its strong power band and will pull happily without changing gears. Just boot it like a diesel, it pulls along nicely and makes passing cars quite effortless. It does feel it needs a bit more power but if nothing is lost from using regular then it'll be an acceptable compromise.

They are readily remappable to 210bhp with no other mods and with the small turbo apparently feel lively and lag free. A mate had a MK1 Octavia VRS that he got from 40k to 190k with a map on. However I rather not need to run on super to get that and also rather not kill the clutch or anything else from the sudden extra power it needs to transmit. Especially given I don't know how sympathetic previous owners may have been.

I took a picture by the front but it didn't come out very well.

So have a picture of our local pier instead.

 

Only faults that have arisen are the indicators playing up (but fixed by punching) and locking the door has stopped the indicators flashing. Unlocking it does flash though so possibly unrelated to the indicators playing up yesterday. 

No codes appeared in the major systems which is very good news. The MAF seems to have completely resolved the code that was in the engine module.

Only one code and this for the radio.

Works fine though and displays on the dash happily, so I'm just putting it down to a brief blip that these cars sometimes have.

Not flashing when locking I'll have to look in some more. Usually that happens if a door isn't shut. Central locking module thinks all the side doors are shut and locked. So not sure what it's unhappy about. Maybe the driver's door lock is playing up again and it's not completely aware it's locked properly. 

 

[JMotor]

Top work!

I've got a TT roadster sat waiting for me to do something with. They really are the bottom rung price wise now. 

Just in two minds to fling it in for an MOT or punt it on as is.

[SiC]

13 hours ago, JMotor said:

Top work!

I've got a TT roadster sat waiting for me to do something with. They really are the bottom rung price wise now. 

Just in two minds to fling it in for an MOT or punt it on as is.

A car with a recent MOT will almost always go for more than one without. Even if it's a big failure list, it gives people an idea what they have got to work with to get it through. 

[SiC]

Car doing regular car stuff. 


 
Pretty cold out at the moment though

 
A combination of powerful heated seats, strong heater (specced for convertible), comparatively (compared to modern) fuel hungry engine (more heat) and small cabin means a fast heating & cosy interior. While no Ford Quickclear windscreen, it's quite small so quick to scrape and the heat melts anything remaining quickly enough to prevent refreezing.

I probably should stop doing it, but the quattro system doesn't half hook up from the get go. Trying to do a similarly quick pullout onto a main road in the Civic just resulted in a lot of squealing and traction control light flashing. That's on good tyres too. 

The plan is to service the Haldex at some point as no history of it being changed. It's effectively only a type of hydraulic fluid and with no combustion by products, it shouldn't age and only wear. Given the type of buyer who opts for the 180bhp, I suspect it's led quite a easy life. After a drive out, the fluid is only at around 30c too. So I'm in no real rush. By servicing it, I'm mostly intrigued to see what state the fluid is in. Only other things left are sorting the suspension out and fitting cruise control. Then MOT up in end of February.

With the Xmas break coming up, I might do some of those things. Otherwise there isn't really anything to report. Sorry it's not a very exciting update. You've done well to read to this point!

This is a good thing though as having a good, interesting and generally reliable modern makes me able to want/need to focus on my classics without having to touch the moderns. (No more till I've got what I've got sorted).

[SiC]

Haldex and rear diff teardown and operation explanation. Pretty simple concept and units really. I reckon overdrive in 60/70s cars is more complex mechanically than a AWD Haldex unit.

 

[New POD]

11 hours ago, SiC said:

Haldex and rear diff teardown and operation explanation. Pretty simple concept and units really. I reckon overdrive in 60/70s cars is more complex mechanically than a AWD Haldex unit.

 

I haven't clicked on it, ( because im not on wifi, right now) but the plates in the foreground look very much like the clutch system in a Goodrich Aerospace (so designed by Lucas Aerospace) hydro-electric actuator for wing flap drive shafts on an air bus. Which sit in Skydrol. That most irritating of hydraulic fluids especially if you get it in your eye. It also melts concrete. 

Which also looks like the wet clutch on a 1960s motorbike. 

 

[SiC]

Ordered a set of springs for the TT last night. Ended up going for Napa branded springs as, after eBay 15% discount code, they were £52 for all four. There was KYB from another seller but no discount code, so they'd be just over £70. While probably a better spring, the Napa ones should last long enough for the rest of the life of the car.

There are two main sizes - pre facelift (longer/higher) and post facelift (shorter/lower). Most spring brands differentiate this by determining it as with/without sports suspension. Garages seem to default to without sports suspension - especially on the 180bhp.

I've actually noticed more and more now that so many TTs are fitted with the wrong springs. E.g. notice how jacked up the rear of this is compared to the front and the arch gap:


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175526516484

Looking at the MOT history, in 2013:


Yup at least one rear spring was changed! I guess both were done at the same time. It now "stanced" like a tractor.

Because of this, I'm going to change all four on mine. At least I know they're all correct and the same then.

Now I was tempted to go for the longer, older car springs but mine should have the shorter ones. While the extra spring travel would be nice to give cushier suspension, having the right springs should make everything else correct in the suspension setup, as it's setup for the shorter springs. I'm going for a wheel alignment once this is all done and their settings should be setup for the shorter springs too. Also as these come with 18s (older had 16s/17s), it might look a bit odd with the longer springs too.

[SiC]

Not too bad result for the TT MOT today. Knackered tyres are a good thing as excuse to chuck away the ditch finders and put something decent on. Glad the brake pedal sensor behaved itself and didn't chuck up the traction control light.

Got a set of brand new springs they are fitting too. Should sort out the lopsidedness and hopefully steering straight.

[Split_Pin]

Good result. As you say once you have replaced the tyres and brakes you are all good.

[SiC]

Brakes work fine so probably won't bother until the pad warning light comes on. 

[Split_Pin]

I got the same advisory for the back discs on my 75 but that's just due to lack of use.

[SiC]

The garage I use tend not to do brake disc advisories or advisories in general, so presumably these might be quite bad. I'll have a chat and see what they say. 

I was worried about the manual headlight height adjustment failing as it's temperamental (not that it matters or useful on the TT) but seems like that was playing ball today. 

[SiC]

I've booked in the cambelt for later this month and I'll get the tyres changed after that. Still tread to scrub down and I don't want to spend out on tyres for sods law to snap the belt. Especially as I'm probably going to go for premium tyres. 3hrs labour for the belt and water pump, so doesn't sound like a bad job nor expensive.

Not sure if placebo but it felt better driving back. More linear when turning in on corners. The steering wheel is even more cock eyed than it was before (it was out before) but at least it sits mostly level. I didn't want to spend out for alignment until these springs were all the same.

Apparently an absolute bastard of a job, especially on the rears where driveshafts, suspension arms and shit are all in the way. So glad I didn't attempt to do it on my driveway. £120 well spent getting someone else to do it! Springs were like £35, so £155 all in for 4 springs changed I think is extremely reasonable.

Before


After


Glad I got all four done to match properly. I did like the idea of higher suspension for more squish but I think that would have buggered the geometry up.

Given it's on 18s, it still rides pretty well. At least to me.

[SiC]

Garage said the slight exhaust blow it's the flexi between the manifold and cat. Also said it wasn't particularly bad and don't bother touching it until it gives more grief/noise.

I'm still very happy with this car. Does everything I need it to just fine.

More than enough poke to make A-road and B-road dawdlers overtaking easy. 36mpg or so on the motorway when using cruise control. Quattro useful in inclement weather. Seats very comfy for long distances and bum warmers heat up quickly. Cheap enough that I don't care that it now has door dings all along the side from train station/town/gym parking. Slightly annoying as it was immaculate along the sides but meh it is still a cheap car so don't need to get stressed about it. 

Not perfect as water is either still getting into the footwell or not drying out properly. I'd still have preferred a V6 and DSG for a better driving experience. If one in the right price come up (MK1 or even a MK2), I may still change. However at the same time this is generally being a solid, reliable car and I don't really need any more. So hard to justify spending out more for a V6. 

 

But I'm more than happy enough to justify chucking money at it now with stuff like the cambelt and water pump. 

[AndyIggs]

The 18's on these have quite a common tyre size (225/40) and you can pick up a bargain now and again. I got 4 Goodyear Eagle F1's a couple of years ago for £75 a corner fitted. It will change the drive for sure. If you can hold out for a bargain I would!

Recent example of some cheap tyres: https://www.hotukdeals.com/search?q=225%2F40 18

 

[SiC]

Blackcircles had PS4 for £430 to replace all four corners which is a pretty good price. 

[bobdisk]

17 hours ago, SiC said:

was worried about the manual headlight height adjustment failing as it's temperamental (not that it matters or useful on the TT) but seems like that was playing ball today. 

A couple of years ago the headlight height adjustment motor on the left light kept pushing it up when it felt like it.  So I pulled the plug on both after  setting the height manually. Passed 3 MOTs since without a mention.  BMW E46.  Never used it anyway. If the lights are aimed correctly,  don't think it's part of the MOT. 

[SiC]

34 minutes ago, bobdisk said:

If the lights are aimed correctly,  don't think it's part of the MOT

Might not have been part of the MOT then but it is now

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-1-5

Make sure any manual headlamp levelling devices (driver controls) work by:

- switching on the dipped beam headlamps

- operating the manual levelling device

- checking that the headlamp beams move up and down

- returning the levelling device control to its original position

[bobdisk]

Must have come in since Sept 2022, thats my latest MOT

[SiC]

3 hours ago, bobdisk said:

Must have come in since Sept 2022, thats my latest MOT

The Fabia that I used to own (now owned by Stanky) failed it's MOT before I owned it on headlight adjustment not working in 2021. That was a manual headlight adjustment. 

Sounds like you got lucky and maybe the tester didn't pay close enough attention to its operation when testing. 

[bobdisk]

What lights are they? Xenon? Mine are normal halogen.

[SiC]

9 minutes ago, bobdisk said:

What lights are they? Xenon? Mine are normal halogen.

Halogen. As mentioned, it had manual adjusters. Xenon don't have manual adjusters. 

[SiC]

Took the TT in for a wheel alignment this morning.
Just had a call to say they can't do it/don't want to proceed. It's going to need a bit more adjustment than normal but they're fearful of snapping bolts off under the suspension and then it becoming a big job.

Hmm.

I said I understood as they don't exactly want to be liable and have a problem on their hands if it goes wrong. But then also said if I'm prepared to take that risk, will they sort it and how much...

At the moment the wheel is at the 11 o'clock position straight ahead. Also noticed a good chunk of camber on the rear wheels too. So it needs something doing and I don't know if I cba to DIY it on my driveway right now.

[AndyIggs]

46 minutes ago, SiC said:

Took the TT in for a wheel alignment this morning.
Just had a call to say they can't do it/don't want to proceed. It's going to need a bit more adjustment than normal but they're fearful of snapping bolts off under the suspension and then it becoming a big job.

Hmm.

I said I understood as they don't exactly want to be liable and have a problem on their hands if it goes wrong. But then also said if I'm prepared to take that risk, will they sort it and how much...

At the moment the wheel is at the 11 o'clock position straight ahead. Also noticed a good chunk of camber on the rear wheels too. So it needs something doing and I don't know if I cba to DIY it on my driveway right now.

Had the same on mine. They did the fronts but wouldn't touch the rears. Luckily they weren't out but as you've mentioned probably don't want to be liable for any potential mishaps.