LightBulbFun Posted January 3, 2021 Author Posted January 3, 2021 continuing on with Adams progress with His Model 70's Model 70 CKD! hoping that I will get a better picture of KPL's chassis like that, as I dont have any bare Model 70 chassis pictures like that otherwise and GTW614N's nose has been fibreglassed back on heres a before picture, very well done given how badly broken the body work was! thankfully the broken off piece was found inside the car which I imagine made things a little bit easier! BlankFrank, egg, Dick Cheeseburger and 1 other 4
Mrs6C Posted January 3, 2021 Posted January 3, 2021 The chassis leg at the top left looks a little drunk! LightBulbFun 1
LightBulbFun Posted January 3, 2021 Author Posted January 3, 2021 2 hours ago, Mrs6C said: The chassis leg at the top left looks a little drunk! haha yeah, for some reason at some point the front chassis leg outriggers on KPL where cut, bent inwards and actually bolted in place like that as seen in this picture of when @Zelandeth was inspecting the chassis do wonder why that was done, was it to stop people tripping over them? anyways I think @OliD-E did make a start at streightening one of them out before he sold KPL and TPE, hence why its a bit lopsided now! speaking of chassis while on the phone with Adam early today, I did finally figure out what the Mysterious single front to back bit was in this picture (the one right bellow the shower of sparks generated by the welder on the left) turns out its just the flat bit metal that goes front to back as found in all all Model 70's, which you can see on KPL above, but until now I thought said strip of metal in the welding photo was a full solid chassis member, but looking closely its a combination of shadows and part of the Jig that holds it in place that made me think that (plus the fact the 2 actual chassis rails either side of it had yet to be welded in place when the photo was taken, which further added to me thinking it was a full chassis member) looking closely at the photo I can now see it is just the strip of metal present on all Model 70's glad to have figured that one out as it had been bugging me for a long while now! Mrs6C 1
Dick Cheeseburger Posted January 3, 2021 Posted January 3, 2021 I'm getting really confused here. Is KPL the m70 which Zelandeth owned and which had hacked bodywork/wide wheels? Where did the rest of the bodywork come from? Where did the m70 with the Daniella Westbrook nose come from? So many questions... 😅 LightBulbFun 1
LightBulbFun Posted January 3, 2021 Author Posted January 3, 2021 2 hours ago, Dick Longbridge said: I'm getting really confused here. Is KPL the m70 which Zelandeth owned and which had hacked bodywork/wide wheels? Where did the rest of the bodywork come from? Where did the m70 with the Daniella Westbrook nose come from? So many questions... 😅 if it makes you feel better even Adam the owner gets confused by it all LOL but here goes KPL139P is indeed @Zelandeth's Original Model 70, with the hacked up body (where it was rescued from a Caravan park where it was used as a Tug), which was then used as a Parts car to recommission TPA621M (which was used as a parts car to recommission TWC725K) so TWC725K has TPA621M's engine and, TPA621M has KPL139P's entire driveline and Rear window and doors after Zel was done with KPL139P he offered it up for free on here, where it was taken up by @OliD-E who then also bought/rescued the Isle of Skye Model 70, TPE376S with the intention of putting the 2 together to make 1 good Model 70 (as KPL139P had a good chassis but no body or mechanicals and TPE376S had no chassis but good bodywork and mechanicals) but this never came to fruition and so recently they where stuck on ebay where Adam Bid and won them, (Mainly just for the glass!) but also with the same idea of combining the 2 together into one good Model 70, (although he did not realise just quite how bad TPE376S was and how many little ancillary bits where missing in general, despite me warning him so! but hopefully KPL139P can be restored with TPE376S's bits, it would be very fun/cool to see it on the road again as I doubt many would have thought it would see the road again given the state of it!) KPL139P is what you see in the first 2 pictures, the small pile of body work pictured is the front and rear sections of KPL, whats left of them anyway! I think the current plan is to just combine the 2 into a rolling shell and then go from there now GTW614N (the one with the broken nose) is part of 4 Model 70's that Adam rescued a couple years ago now (all trapped in abandoned building being demolished and had to be ripped out of the building with a JCB hence the bodywork damage and broken glass sadly) and put into storage to await recommissioning, in October/November 2019, I was contacted by @st185cs as Adam had gotten ahold of him somehow looking for some bits like glass, and to V62 for the 4 Model 70's and so @st185cs thankfully contacted me to make sure the V62's where correct etc, and im glad he did as I immediately spotted that they had been filled in incorrectly and that the chassis numbers and registration numbers did not match up, so I knew right away that there was past Approved Repairer shenanigans on the go, and so to V62 the cars id need to see their actual chassis number and figure out what the cars actually where so I was put in direct contact with Adam to help him with the Model 70's, but the cars where in storage at the time, so the numbers could not be got, however Starting in October/November 2020, their turn finally came up and Adam got them out of storage, got me the Numbers I needed, where I was able to quickly ID which cars they actually where, while Adam and his friends got All the Model 70's road worthy in record quick time (while I provided Model 70 specific technical support on the side) (and so with the cars properly ID'ed he was able to V62 for them all, and the first of the V5's arrived in his name for them recently, with funnily enough GTW614N's V5 turning up first we are still waiting on the other 3 which are GPF282N KPC538P and VJN960S) and so to clarify Adam has GTW614N, GPF282N KPC538P, VJN960S and KPL139P and TPE376S hopefully this all makes sense! Dick Cheeseburger and BlankFrank 2
Dick Cheeseburger Posted January 4, 2021 Posted January 4, 2021 Ha! Thanks for the info! I missed the whole chapter about GTW and the others from the building which was being demolished- is there any footage of it? LightBulbFun 1
LightBulbFun Posted January 4, 2021 Author Posted January 4, 2021 2 hours ago, Dick Longbridge said: Ha! Thanks for the info! I missed the whole chapter about GTW and the others from the building which was being demolished- is there any footage of it? Np I dont think theres any footage sadly but heres a picture of KPC538P being brought out of the building I think they where also vandalised over time hence the paint down the front of VJN960S and popped windows (as well as the extraction damage) but Adam and his mates have done a very good job of repairing then and getting them road worthy if you wish to read up on it all The Chapter starts here https://autoshite.com/topic/32723-invacar-model-70-acquired-general-ramble-thread-index-on-page-1-model-70-survivors-list-on-page-24-pre-model-70-ac-and-invacar-survivors-lists-added-on-page-135/page/86/?tab=comments#comment-1906101 and then picks up again here (and continues throughout to the current page) https://autoshite.com/topic/32723-invacar-model-70-acquired-general-ramble-thread-index-on-page-1-model-70-survivors-list-on-page-24-pre-model-70-ac-and-invacar-survivors-lists-added-on-page-135/page/166/?tab=comments#comment-2172016 Dick Cheeseburger and Mrs6C 2
Eyersey1234 Posted January 4, 2021 Posted January 4, 2021 If you combine parts from several different Invacars which cars identity would the result take?
LightBulbFun Posted January 4, 2021 Author Posted January 4, 2021 21 minutes ago, Eyersey1234 said: If you combine parts from several different Invacars which cars identity would the result take? its a good question, id say it would go with whichever ones chassis you end up using since thats what the V5/Reg number is all tied to esp in this case as its a case of take all the good bits from TPE376S to hopefully rebuild KPL139P into a complete car again
dollywobbler Posted January 4, 2021 Posted January 4, 2021 It's a good question, but I suspect most Invacar specialists had no qualms about mixing and matching whatever was about, which is why TWC appears to be on an AC chassis...
LightBulbFun Posted January 4, 2021 Author Posted January 4, 2021 34 minutes ago, dollywobbler said: It's a good question, but I suspect most Invacar specialists had no qualms about mixing and matching whatever was about, which is why TWC appears to be on an AC chassis... Yeah TWC is an interesting one because Approved repairers very rarely did any major overhauling like a chassis swap, given it would of been much easier to just issue the user another Model 70 especially in the later days (which is when this happened given that TWC's chassis is last taxed 1991) so given TWC has an AC chassis as you say, normally thats an indication that TWC is not really TWC, but is just an AC wearing the ID for TWC725K because an AR got lazy and rather then fix the real TWC, they just slapped her ID on a spare car out back and sent the user on their merry way (which they where very much not supposed to do, and interestingly one of the Sisters cars to TWC from the field which was subject to such shenanigans actually has "check" chiseled into its chassis plate next to the chassis number, have to wonder if a Ministry man caught them there LOL) so at first it does look like TWC is not really TWC and is just an AC wearing TWC's identity but I do note that the original engine you pulled from TWC when the Dizzy on it broke had a cartridge oil filter, which was only found on the early Model 70's, but I dont know exactly when this change happened now I know that TPA621M's engine now in TWC is a spin on type, but the interesting thing is that TPA621M is older then TWC's chassis, but I dont know if the engine you pulled from TPA was actually TPA's original engine or not this is why I have been badgering you for the Engine numbers of the 2 engines you have and the number stamped on the Cabin chassis plate, for the past couple years now LOL its not just only to try and figure out TWC's real ID, but also just in general for my research so I can finally figure out or at least narrow down when the oil filter type change happened BTW Speaking of TWC, I was thinking, you mentioned in the recent live stream that her Diff was making some unhappy noises, so I was thinking while your doing the engine overhaul, maybe you could see if the diff from TPA's driveline is any good and potentially swap that in?
bobdisk Posted January 4, 2021 Posted January 4, 2021 On 1/3/2021 at 12:01 PM, LightBulbFun said: do you have a screenshot of it? it sadly wants me to sign in or sign up to watch the video, and id like to avoid having to make an account if possible! Will see what can be done! It comes at 1.3MB, The best pic is in episode 2, "Richard Hammond scours the Top Gear archives to relive the team's attempt to cross the English Channel in home-made amphibious cars", at 26 min 47 secs. LightBulbFun 1
LightBulbFun Posted January 5, 2021 Author Posted January 5, 2021 switching things up a bit and inspired by Zels recent postings, heres a post to do with my old computer hobby, which is one of the other hobbies of mine besides the Invacars Lightbulbs and Routemasters I dont post much about it in here, as what I do is a bit technical, (from making Operating systems run on hardware/machines they where never meant to run on, to BGA soldering on faster CPUs to various old macs) but its safe to say I do enjoy messing with computers in general and while I generally focus on Apple stuff/things, I have a general interest in all corners of the computer world and so recently I managed to get my hands on this! featuring a whopping* 640KB of RAM and a blazing fast* 8Mhz intel 286 CPU its a Compaq Portable II, PC Compatible for only £25! (yes in 1986 this was considered portable! theres a reason machines of this style are known as luggable's!) while I have a plethora of Macintosh hardware from my Macintosh SE to several Mid to late 1990's Macs and plenty of 2000's ones (although not so many 68K ones sadly, I only have the SE in that regard) I have been quite lacking in the PC department, and while i have a small gaggle of PC motherboards (mostly LGA775 ones of various chipsets/generations from i865 to X48), my oldest PC compatible hardware/machine was an Athlon XP PC I rescued a couple years ago, which is only from 2001, so I sadly dont have anything 1980s or 1990's and so I have wanted something a bit older, and when this Compaq showed up I had to jump on it!, I still can't quite believe how cheap it was, normally 1980's Computers like this easily fetch £100-£200 and so despite very much wanting one i never really looked out for them on ebay etc as they normally go for far more then I can afford for this sort of thing, so im very excited to have actually managed to get something! (although I really could do with a 1990's PC now to act as a bridge machine between this 1980's machine and my main computer for shuffling software about, and also because I do still want a 90's PC to mess around with LOL) I am really looking forward to getting it and playing with, especially as it has the typical P1 long persistence green phosphor CRT that many of these 1980's PCs had and it seems to mostly be working, the 360K 5.25 inch floppy drive does not seem be to playing ball but hopefully that just needs its heads cleaning or such (even the 20MB MFM hard drive and the foam and foil keyboard which is notorious for disintegrating internally seems to be working) the only slight problem, is its in the Netherlands! as a good friend and fellow computer enthusiast there, spotted it for sale near him and while he was not personally that interested in it, he very kindly picked it up on my behalf and has been giving it a once over for me so now we just have the problem of how to actually get it to me, if we cant figure out a suitable shipping option, then I foresee a small* collection caper once My road skills have been well honed and REV has been well run in/fettled 500tops, CaptainBoom and Mrs6C 3
bobdisk Posted January 5, 2021 Posted January 5, 2021 Heres the pic of Richard and the Model 70, (at least I am sure it is) 😃 LightBulbFun and Mrs6C 2
LightBulbFun Posted January 5, 2021 Author Posted January 5, 2021 switching to the Lightbulb hobby, a small collection of fluorescent tubes arrived today, I ordered these in December after I got some Christmas money, and decided I would finally indulge myself an order some fluorescent tubes iv been eying up for a few years now on a lighting wholesaler that is well known in the community which is CP Lighting, now they have a nice selection of unusual and rare tubes, but they are either really cheap or really expensive no middle ground with them so I have been putting off ordering as I knew it would get expensive, and indeed this order came to £70 in the end! (at least I got free shipping LOL) so here are those tubes the main order was for the 2 GE Chroma 75 4ft 40W tubes, the most expensive of the bunch at £15 a pop! (and the only 2 to arrive damaged sadly with bent/broken pins due to poor packaging, but the wholesaler quickly responded to my email that they will be dispatching 2 replacements so full marks to them there) they are special US tubes, they are in the normal 4ft 40W T12 size, but with a special deluxe halo-phosphor that outputs a colour temperature of 7500K at 94 CRI!, really quite blue! they are very interesting tubes and are a companion tube to the Chroma 50 which was much more common (with a more normal 5000K but still very high 98 CRI) I have been wanting some Chroma 75's for a long time to see what such a high colour temperature tube looks like, ill have to do some comparisons with the British equivalent North-light (Colour matching) colour, which is 6200K at 94 CRI these tubes where used in areas where colour rendering accuracy was very important, like textiles and the such like I also got them as they where US tubes, and I did not have any US 4ft T12's in the collection so now I do, and in an unusual colour to boot (they are electrically identical to a British 4ft 40W T12 however for those wondering) I was thankfully able to repair one of the damaged ones enough to light it in a fixture (but the 2nd one is beyond repair and will need a replacement cap fitted at some point) the next tube down from those is a 3ft 30W Thorn tube, this one of the cheap ones at about £4, it was miss labelled on their website and I was curious as to what I would get so for £3 I tacked it on on the order, its listed on their website as a 30W 970Mm tube made by GE, but there is no such thing, I had a feeling it would be a 3ft tube because it was listed as 30W but I was curious as to what exact brand and type id get (there is a 970Mm T12 tube but those are 40W not 30W) especially as GE AFAIK never made 3ft 30W T12's in the UK, so I was wondering if it would be a US tube, but no its a British Thorn tube (with Thorn being bought out by GE in the early 1990's is probably why it was listed as a GE tube) still plenty happy with it as 3ft T12 tubes are generally quite rare, only used in a few locations, like imported US equipment like @Zelandeth's Sun tester, and in bus lighting where their lower striking voltage makes them more reliable on inverter control gear) this one swirled and snaked most impressively when I first lit it, as it burned off impurities left over from manufacturing which can be seen in this video (sorry for the poor quality but its very hard to get it on camera!) next up are the 2 Narva F32T8 tubes, these are US specification 32W 4ft T8 tubes, very different from the 36W 4ft T8 tube found in the UK Europe and other 220-240V countries I have wanted such tubes to play with and experiment with for a while, and when I saw CP lighting had them for £1.60 each I of course had to tack a couple onto my order, these are not electrically compatible with any 4ft fixture in the UK really, but they will work well enough for testing in one but are slightly over driven in this case when both Europe and the US where developing long T8 tubes in the 1970s/1980s to replace T12 tubes, due to fundamental differences in lighting control gear between Europe and the US they each did their own thing, while in Europe it was possible to develop an energy saving 4ft T8 tube to retrofit existing 4ft T12 tubes, so thats what they did, it was not possible to do so in the US so they developed their own T8 tube to run on its own new control gear, while also developing a special less efficient/less bright but still energy saving 4ft T12 tube to go into existing 4ft 40W fixtures, sadly I do not have any of those in the collection next up is the Mitsubishi electric 4ft 40W T10 tube this is my first T10 tube and its a Japanese domestic market one at that, Japan has/had some really interesting lighting different from the rest of the world, like instead of the T12 they had T10 tubes, electrically compatible for the most part with a T12 tube of the same size, it will still be very interesting to take some measurements of it, in terms of colour I believe its a normal daylight tube (although I dont know if its the same as Regular daylight in the UK or are more deluxe daylight ill have to make some comparisons) this one was also quite pricey at about £11 but I dont know where else you would get a 4ft JDM fluorescent tube from! the Japanese 2ft tube was also 580Mm long compared to 590Mm that all other 2ft tubes are, I believe this was done to keep the arc voltage of their 2ft tube down suitably low, so that it could still be run off a simple choke ballast on their low 100V mains this has caused much swearing when people go relamp imported Japanese equipment like industrial fridges etc LOL (as a regular 2ft tube is just slightly too long and wont fit) then there, is the Vickers Medical blue 2ft 40W tube, this one was another case of not well described but cheap enough at £4 that im curious as to what id get, and it is quite interesting its clearly a 1990s-2000's 2ft 40W tube made by GE in Hungary for the Vickers medical company, I knew of older 1960s-1980's one but this is the first 1990s-2000's one I have seen it will be very interesting to see which shade of blue this is as several shades where used in the Medical industry (for example for treating jaundice in new born infants) but I have not lit it just yet as I need to put together the correct control gear for it, but I suspect its most likely a jaundice tube and the final tubes are the 3 PL-S lamps on the left, they are most unusual in that they are individual Red green and blue tubes, generally coloured fluorescent tubes where only made in a small subset of standard sizes so to for individual red green and blue tubes made in this PL-S format is most unusual, further so because they have 4 pin bases (PL-S lamps normally have a 2 pin base with a built in glow bottle starter, but 4 pin lamps where produced where such a lamp would be incompatible, for example on electronic control gear) Osram did make Red green and blue PL-S lamps but only in a 9W size with an normal 2 pin base, but even they are still quite rare (but @Zelandeth very kindly sent me a full set of those many years ago, so it will be very interesting to compare these GE lamps to those Osram ones) it was also not known that GE ever made any colour PL-S lamps until these showed up so im very pleased to get my hands on a full set of colours I highly suspect these where made for a specific application or customer given the 4 pin bases and the fact they came in plain white boxes (clearly GE PL-S ones but completely white rather then branded) I will be hopefully lighting all 3 at the same time soon so expect a second post for when I do that and also light the Vickers medical tube and so yeah really quite pleased to finally get these tubes as I had known about them for a few yeas now but could not really justify the cost! (CP lighting do have even more tubes I want, but those will have to wait until next christmas or such!) hopefully someone found this interesting and if anyone has any questions feel to ask!
LightBulbFun Posted January 5, 2021 Author Posted January 5, 2021 56 minutes ago, bobdisk said: Heres the pic of Richard and the Model 70, (at least I am sure it is) 😃 ah Awesome I thought it sounded familiar, its been on this thread before all the way back on page 19! still not 100% sure it is, but I assume it is one of the surviving various surviving Model 70's that now reside in various museums (its certainly a Model 70 as it has 2 doors) On 10/02/2019 at 03:38, MorrisItalSLX said: I was watching Top Gear: Ambitious But Rubbish, a clip show of challenges with interludes by Richard Hammond, and these interludes are filmed in some sort of storage facility full of cars, one of which was this: I have no idea if this one has already been documented in this thread, but the more the merrier. On 10/02/2019 at 03:49, LightBulbFun said: hah cool not seen that shot/scene before i dont know which that one is but if I had to take a guess, going by its colour hue i wanna say its TJN352R https://www.flickr.com/photos/triggerscarstuff/4648973786/in/photostream/
dollywobbler Posted January 5, 2021 Posted January 5, 2021 On 1/4/2021 at 6:54 PM, LightBulbFun said: this is why I have been badgering you for the Engine numbers of the 2 engines you have and the number stamped on the Cabin chassis plate, for the past couple years now LOL its not just only to try and figure out TWC's real ID, but also just in general for my research so I can finally figure out or at least narrow down when the oil filter type change happened Gawd, and I still forgot even though I had both engines on the bench today! Sorry. I'll see if I can do it tomorrow, though I have the spectre of home educating to deal with too... LightBulbFun 1
LightBulbFun Posted January 5, 2021 Author Posted January 5, 2021 5 minutes ago, dollywobbler said: Gawd, and I still forgot even though I had both engines on the bench today! Sorry. I'll see if I can do it tomorrow, though I have the spectre of home educating to deal with too... Yeah I was thinking about it as you had the spares engine out in the video! Nice to see TWC getting some love as a side note on the exhaust going rusty I wonder if there is anything you can paint it with that will stand up to the high temperatures to try and protect it from the elements?
dollywobbler Posted January 5, 2021 Posted January 5, 2021 I did paint it with so-called high temp paint, but it barely lasted at all. Given how useless the heater is, if the pipe does rot through, I think I'd just go for a simple custom pipe and ditch the heat exchanger. LightBulbFun 1
Mrs6C Posted January 5, 2021 Posted January 5, 2021 4 minutes ago, dollywobbler said: I did paint it with so-called high temp paint, but it barely lasted at all I'd suggest applying black lead / grate polish and buffing it up when dry, to give a nice dark grey/black finish that can take the heat. LightBulbFun 1
somewhatfoolish Posted January 5, 2021 Posted January 5, 2021 I think the only durable finishes for mild steel exhausts are ceramic coating or aluminium or zinc spraying, all paint finishes seem to fail very quickly. LightBulbFun 1
LightBulbFun Posted January 6, 2021 Author Posted January 6, 2021 17 hours ago, LightBulbFun said: (and the only 2 to arrive damaged sadly with bent/broken pins due to poor packaging, but the wholesaler quickly responded to my email that they will be dispatching 2 replacements so full marks to them there) continued top marks to CP lighting for good customer service here, as a couple hours after I made the post I discovered that sadly the Vickers medical blue tube was also damaged or defective, I suspect defective before even shipped as I cant see any physical damage on it it worked for a couple seconds before going dim and then out and now fails to strike and acts as if it has lost vacuum although the cathodes have not burnt up, so I suspect a severely contaminated gas fill my best guess as to whats happened to this poor tube is I suspect one of the glass to metal seals was improperly formed during manufacturing and failed when the tube was lit due to the increase in temperature that naturally happens when a tube is lit so I sent them an email again at 8PM about it and if I can get a replacement for this one too, and I got an email back at 8AM today saying that thats not a problem and that it was not too late add a replacement for the Vickers medical blue tube, in with the 2 Chroma 75 replacements and I even got order/shipping details today I just hope the replacements are better packed and get here intact!
LightBulbFun Posted January 6, 2021 Author Posted January 6, 2021 23 hours ago, LightBulbFun said: and the final tubes are the 3 PL-S lamps on the left, they are most unusual in that they are individual Red green and blue tubes, generally coloured fluorescent tubes where only made in a small subset of standard sizes so to for individual red green and blue tubes made in this PL-S format is most unusual, further so because they have 4 pin bases (PL-S lamps normally have a 2 pin base with a built in glow bottle starter, but 4 pin lamps where produced where such a lamp would be incompatible, for example on electronic control gear) Osram did make Red green and blue PL-S lamps but only in a 9W size with an normal 2 pin base, but even they are still quite rare (but @Zelandeth very kindly sent me a full set of those many years ago, so it will be very interesting to compare these GE lamps to those Osram ones) it was also not known that GE ever made any colour PL-S lamps until these showed up so im very pleased to get my hands on a full set of colours I highly suspect these where made for a specific application or customer given the 4 pin bases and the fact they came in plain white boxes (clearly GE PL-S ones but completely white rather then branded) I will be hopefully lighting all 3 at the same time soon please to report all 3 of them work lovely and I was able to scrounge up enough control gear to light all 3 at the same time lovely bright colours!, its still weird seeing GE PL-S lamps in solid colours like this! its also fun as the resulting light output of all 3 is roughly white, but it makes for some trippy shadows! its like In Real Life chromatic aberration, which thinking about it is what it really is LOL richardmorris and Mrs6C 2
Mrs6C Posted January 6, 2021 Posted January 6, 2021 Think you need to post that last picture on the Cat thread... LightBulbFun 1
LightBulbFun Posted January 7, 2021 Author Posted January 7, 2021 On 06/01/2021 at 12:10, LightBulbFun said: continued top marks to CP lighting for good customer service here, as a couple hours after I made the post I discovered that sadly the Vickers medical blue tube was also damaged or defective, I suspect defective before even shipped as I cant see any physical damage on it it worked for a couple seconds before going dim and then out and now fails to strike and acts as if it has lost vacuum although the cathodes have not burnt up, so I suspect a severely contaminated gas fill my best guess as to whats happened to this poor tube is I suspect one of the glass to metal seals was improperly formed during manufacturing and failed when the tube was lit due to the increase in temperature that naturally happens when a tube is lit so I sent them an email again at 8PM about it and if I can get a replacement for this one too, and I got an email back at 8AM today saying that thats not a problem and that it was not too late add a replacement for the Vickers medical blue tube, in with the 2 Chroma 75 replacements and I even got order/shipping details today I just hope the replacements are better packed and get here intact! pleased to report they arrived today, better packed and intact with no bent pins and the replacement Vickers Medical blue tube seems to be working fine too touch wood! It amuses me to see that I have seemingly by accident bought an almost Invacar coloured fluorescent tube LOL Mrs6C 1
Mrs6C Posted January 7, 2021 Posted January 7, 2021 1 hour ago, LightBulbFun said: It amuses me to see that I have seemingly by accident bought an almost Invacar coloured fluorescent tube LOL A long time ago it used to be a 'thing' to put lights under the sills of cars and illuminate the ground beneath... perhaps you could 'go retro' by buying a couple more of these, getting them to run off 12v and fixing them up under the tread plate on each side of REV... LightBulbFun 1
dollywobbler Posted January 7, 2021 Posted January 7, 2021 Sadly illegal, but it is a cool effect. I reckon even cooler with a single front wheel. LightBulbFun 1
LightBulbFun Posted January 7, 2021 Author Posted January 7, 2021 1 hour ago, Mrs6C said: A long time ago it used to be a 'thing' to put lights under the sills of cars and illuminate the ground beneath... perhaps you could 'go retro' by buying a couple more of these, getting them to run off 12v and fixing them up under the tread plate on each side of REV... haha yeah Neons as they where called (although they never actually contained Neon! and where actually cold cathode fluorescent tubes, the same sort of light used to backlight older LCD monitors and TV's and in flat bed scanners and the such like) Yeah that would be quite amusing, 1 hour ago, dollywobbler said: Sadly illegal, but it is a cool effect. I reckon even cooler with a single front wheel. Yeah especially as due to how the Model 70 body sits over the chassis from a lot of angles it completely hides the front wheel and makes it look like the front of the car is hovering (esp when the lighting is right and you get a soft shadow under the car) so if you added a glowing light there, would really look retro-futuristic almost on a more serious note wrapping her up in low voltage Christmas lights and going for a drive is something I really want to do in a future christmas LOL Mrs6C 1
Mrs6C Posted January 7, 2021 Posted January 7, 2021 20 minutes ago, LightBulbFun said: on a more serious note wrapping her up in low voltage Christmas lights and going for a drive is something I really want to do in a future christmas LOL Molly would be pleased to offer some tips... LightBulbFun and CaptainBoom 1 1
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