Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[meshking]

I usually use brake cleaner bought in a 5 litre can from the local factors sprayed from a hand-primed pressure sprayer.

 

I'm in awe of the work you're doing here - definitely puts my welding and metalwork to shame!

[sharley17194]

id only recormend the guessworks get of ya bastard tool...to date its the only clutch puller ive not managed to break, being heavy handed is my talent in life! car is looking cracking you are putting my VP to shame! good progress over the weekend. All i managed to do is get wet and covered in petrol. Thanks to the carb leaking on my 1300. 

 

This is the post that makes me think I should:
http://autoshite.com/topic/9247-the-purple-peril-and-other-dreadful-cars-i-need-to-fix/?p=538339

Catsinthewelder was the last person to have this properly on the road and will know what it was like through the gears. Vulgalour only managed to run it in a half circle because the clutch is siezed. The clutch was replaced before catsinthewelder (by sharley also on this thread), so at least I don't need to replace it (hopefully). Still need to get a proper clutch pulling tool.

I'll also inspect the oil pump once the clutch is free as cats said the oil pressure light came on when using it. I think the switch was replaced, but that should be replaced by the NOS Smiths electronic gauge.


It's a big target of mine to get it through an MOT.

[sharley17194]

once clutch is out removing the oil pump is a doddle. Pressure light coming on could be a sticking oil pressure valve its the big doomed nut below where the pipe for the oil filter comes out of the block. Swap it for a minispares ball bearing and spring. The original design isnt very good and sticks easily. 

Depends entirely on money and how much it'll be. Don't forget I'm down in expensive Sarf. We're also planning to move house and that's rather pricey endeavour.

The engine and box is out! Was one of the first things I did.




I thought the oil pump was behind the clutch after that's removed and the casing around it?

[SiC]

id only recormend the guessworks get of ya bastard tool...to date its the only clutch puller ive not managed to break, being heavy handed is my talent in life! car is looking cracking you are putting my VP to shame! good progress over the weekend. All i managed to do is get wet and covered in petrol. Thanks to the carb leaking on my 1300.

This one? http://www.guess-works.com/Shop/Parts/?type=tool

 

Nice but bloody hell is that expensive! I might give the 20 quid Draper one a go at that price.

 

once clutch is out removing the oil pump is a doddle. Pressure light coming on could be a sticking oil pressure valve its the big doomed nut below where the pipe for the oil filter comes out of the block. Swap it for a minispares ball bearing and spring. The original design isnt very good and sticks easily.

It currently has a ball-bearing as the oil pressure valve. What is stock, a shuttle type plunger (that is what is in my MGB)? The one in there isn't particularly dirty or worn. Certainly likely to have been replaced at some point and I guess probably relatively recently (in terms of the age of the car).

[busmansholiday]

Not that concerned about the oil pressure tbh.

Really ?, Thought you were loosing sleep over it with the MGB?

[SiC]

Really ?, Thought you were loosing sleep over it with the MGB?

No sleep lost, just leaving it sat in the Garage out of mind & sight until I have time to use it and decide what to do with it longer term. The engine in this 1100 sounds way nicer than the MGB though. The MGB engine sounds like a 10 year old chinese copy of a Briggs and Stratton that is running on 15 year old, reused 30 SAE oil when it's sub zero outside. This a-series in contrast sounds like a fresh Honda lawnmower engine that has fresh oil in.

[Mally]

The flywheel shouldn't be too bad with the engine out.

Difficult to swing a hammer on the puller bolt when in the car.

My puller is just a 12mm plate with 3 holes drilled in it, slacken the centre bolt a couple of turns, screw 3 bolts in 2-1/2" x 3/8 unf. Tighten them tight, wack the plate in the middle!

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

This is the one you need:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini-Flywheel-Puller-Tool-Verto-or-Diaphragm-Clutch-Minis-ACT19862-NEW/162150049328?epid=8011223575&hash=item25c0e56630:g:1jsAAOSwHuhalqWq:rk:1:pf:0

 

So remove the starter and the big bolt and stepped washer, fit the centre spigot and fit the tool. Grease the centre bolt thread. Lock the flywheel with a big old screwdriver and set to with a breaker bar. It will either pop off on its own or you can clout the end of the centre bolt but don't over do it. 

If you're taking the end cover off you will need a new gasket - scraping the old one off is fun. Your oil pump will be a pin drive one. 1300's use the spider drive. 

 

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Block/Oil_pumps/GLP142.aspx?100109&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/oil%20pump.aspx|Back%20to%20search

 

 

Only they're out of stock..................

[SiC]

Moss have them in stock and I can pick one up from there on a lunch time if I need to. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/oil-pump-pin-drive-glp142.html?assoc=154648

Intension will always be to remove and inspect rather than blindly replacing.

 

That flywheel tool looks to be the same Draper one as Machine Mart do for £20 (have to order it in though). They also have a discount code for this Saturday - except I'd need to find £30 of other stuff to buy from there.

 

Would the tool likely survive being used with an impact wrench, or is that asking for trouble? I'll give breaker bar a go first of course.

[Guest Hooli]

It can be worth putting a thick rod against the ball bearing and twatting it with a hammer to ensure the seat is flat so it seals correctly.

It's worked in a few cars for me, just don't twat it too hard or it'll get stuck.

[SiC]

What's a tick rod?

[Guest Hooli]

What's a tick rod?

Edited it.

 

My phone decided I didn't want to type thick. A thin rod is likely to dent the ball bearing.

[sharley17194]

Ive broken so many of the draper ones i gave up. In all fairness i do remove alot of clutches so was worth the extra money for something that just works. He does rental too. If its got the ball bearing it was fitted after i owned it. Swap the oil pump and switch and see if the light goes out. I remember it being a low mileage engine when i fitted it back in and i cant see that it will have done many miles as it seems to have spent most of its life as a project, The 1098 lumps are hardy little beasts! The only time id worry about the light being on is on hard revs, sometimes they can flutter as they wear or when the revs drop but if you keep up with serving etc they will go on for ever like that. 

 

Setup correctly the 1100 will be like a sewing machine. 

 

Ive got my VP 1300 running now just got brakes and clutch to bleed then hes back on the road and it will be onto the next project! 

[SiC]

Is the engine not original to the car then? (No surprise if it isn't!)

 

Can the oil pump be inspected if removed? I know the MGB B-series one can but the A-Series is a different design and looks sealed up.

 

Anyone fancy trying to decode it's engine tag?

 

The best I can find is that it's a 1098cc engine from an ADO16...

[sharley17194]

TBH with you i fitted the engine back into it that came with the car so it could be original....check your logbook. The engine plate says 'hey im a bog standard 1098 from an Austin 1100'  As i had it apart on the floor, for some reason i swapped the gearbox and i cant for the life of me remember why, i checked the shells and bores, they all looked good.

 

If you have the pump off just fit a new one, you can check tolerances but i've always just binned them.

[dozeydustman]

[SiC]

Funnily enough I've been on that Guessworks website often and saw that decoder. But completely forgot about using it! Useful info that. Explains that it has had an alternator conversion - I knew the alternator is definitely not original anyway (it has Austin Rover printed on it).

 

Can you get the heritage certificates from Gaydon for the ADO16s? Or were they the batch of archives that were burnt down.

[sharley17194]

The alternator was me....

 

Funnily enough I've been on that Guessworks website often and saw that decoder. But completely forgot about using it! Useful info that. Explains that it has had an alternator conversion - I knew the alternator is definitely not original anyway (it has Austin Rover printed on it).

Can you get the heritage certificates from Gaydon for the ADO16s? Or were they the batch of archives that were burnt down.

[alf892]

Yeah its the big metal bit that the clutch is in needs to come off then.

From reading up, it appears getting the clutch out is going to be the biggest fight. Especially as it seems to be siezed in there and why it doesn't disengage.

When pulling the clutch off it is a sensible precaution to have it on the timing marks as it is possible for the retaining washer C clip to drop and trap the flywheel.

 

If this happens your brain will run out of Fucks

[SiC]

When pulling the clutch off it is a sensible precaution to have it on the timing marks as it is possible for the retaining washer C clip to drop and trap the flywheel.

 

If this happens your brain will run out of Fucks

Oh yes I remember reading that in the workshop manual. So is it just a case of turning the engine to 0 degrees on the end pulley and it's then safe to remove?

 

Just ordered the Draper tool off eBay, so should be here tomorrow. Hopefully will allow some Wednesday evening tinkering is in order.

[Eddie Honda]

I have a Lidl Parkside pressure washer. On about the 5th time out, the gun starts leaking. Shitey plastic crap. So I put it aside to sort out later.

 

Eventually, I got round to buying a replacement gun. Although it is still made of shitey plastic, it looks like they made a couple of changes to make it less likely to spring a leak after a while. We shall see...

 

Now, despite hunting high and low for the past few days, I can't find the sodding lance bit that goes into the gun section. FFS.

[SiC]

I have a Lidl Parkside pressure washer. On about the 5th time out, the gun starts leaking. Shitey plastic crap. So I put it aside to sort out later.

 

Eventually, I got round to buying a replacement gun. Although it is still made of shitey plastic, it looks like they made a couple of changes to make it less likely to spring a leak after a while. We shall see...

 

Now, despite hunting high and low for the past few days, I can't find the sodding lance bit that goes into the gun section. FFS.

Typed that in the wrong window?

[alf892]

Oh yes I remember reading that in the workshop manual. So is it just a case of turning the engine to 0 degrees on the end pulley and it's then safe to remove?

 

Just ordered the Draper tool off eBay, so should be here tomorrow. Hopefully will allow some Wednesday evening tinkering is in order.

yes that's it

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

1100 engine.jpeg

 

 

 

Interesting that they say it's a Mini unit - that would be an 1100 Clubman through and these arrived in late '74 with the rod change gearbox. Obvs. this still has the 1100 box.

 

After the pump is in (fill it with EP90 gear oil so it primes quickly), remove the oil filter to block metal pipe and fire oil in there. Spin it on the starter with the plugs out to build the pressure up. tbh, I'd have measure the oil pressure at idle - even in good nick the light will flicker if the idle speed is a tad too low. They like 800 rpm.

[Eddie Honda]

Typed that in the wrong window?

Doh! The curse of tabbed browsing.

[SiC]

 

 

You would know about it if a gear was missing a tooth... the magnet in the sump plug collects all the swarf from the shared engine/gearbox/differential oil. Personally I would not split them if it was running fine. You are also wise to leave the cylinder head on, hopefully this will never have to come off.

 

On these OHV engines the main oil leaks are the result of defective rocker cover and tappet chest gaskets. They are generally oil-tight in transverse form.

Can you get to the tappet chest gasket without removing the exhaust manifold? I'm wondering if it's a bad idea to remove it as I risk a fight trying to make it seal properly again?

[Squire_Dawson]

Yes.

[SiC]

Got on with prepping for clutch removal tonight.

 

First up the plugs came out.

 

All oily and sticky on the threads, so I gave them a clean up with a brass brush. Possibly not helped by being blinking freezing cold out.

 

Turned to the business end now. Times up the engine to have the TDC marker at the top ready.

 

Removed the end cover. A couple of bolts are missing from the end. Apparently they're often left out as they can be fiddly to reinstall when in the car. I think I read that on here earlier in the thread.

 

Greeted with this.

 

I wasn't sure if I should remove the bolts on the plate first or on the flywheel. Thanks to the magic of the interwebs, I watched this video which cleared things up: https://youtu.be/HVIoCuSciIE

 

Left with this.

 

Knocked out the tabs with a screwdriver and mallet. Undid the bolts to get to this.

 

Now time for the big bolt. Knocked out the tabs and fetched my big socket.

 

I bought this for this sort of job. It was sold as a 1.5 inch socket, but 38mm appears near as damn it to that.

 

Tried with my breaker bar first. All this succeeded doing is rocking the engine around on the stand. So decided to crack out my number one favourite tool. Bought this because Dave numbers got on really well with his. It's not a tool that I use very often, infact I very rarely use it. Not a cheap bit of kit either - in fact it's bloody expensive considering how little I use it.

 

But where it comes into its element is exactly jobs Iike this. Note that one hand is holding my phone while recording. It's also on its lowest and slowest power setting.

[Video]

 

It was like it wasn't even there! Bonus too that as it's impact, the flywheel doesn't get too much movement through it either. Thus doing less damage to those teeth jammed with a screwdriver.

 

I always leave this tool to last as I fear it being too powerful, however I'm wondering on jobs like this it'll cause less damage than trying it by hand first. I'm still unsure if I should use this when trying to get the flywheel off. I guess it's probably no different than a mallet on a breaker bar though?

 

More tomorrow if my flywheel removal tool appears in the post. Hopefully flywheel will come off and see if the clutch problems are caused by a siezed clutch.

[SiC]

What I have noticed is that the bit behind the flywheel is loose. Surely if the clutch was siezed on, this bit wouldn't move?

[Video]

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Clutch may be rusted onto primary gear or either flywheel or pressure plate. You need to get the fly off.