The Ex-forum of several shiters 95 Mazda 323 coupé - for sale again!

[egg]

Thanks to 500tops, err, top spot - the list of survivors can be updated. N698 PFJ's MOT history is virtually flawless. Also, very interestingly recorded as a 1.3 by the DVLA, either a mistake or a true rarity over here.

 

Still only 7 known.

 

- N979 FLP - Blue 1.5 GLX Auto (mine)

- M37 ACV - Green 1.5 GLX

- M767 PAG - Green 1.5 GLX

- N707 FBV - White 1.5 GLX Auto

- M335 BLP - White 1.5 GLX

- N698 PFJ - Blue 1.3

 

(J50634 in Jersey - white)

[egg]

Clean MOT until 10 May 2020 just achieved, 383 days.

 

It's a fail/pass as it initially failed on an insecure CV boot (a common thread with this car - 3rd time it has been an issue).

 

Should get the call to walk over and collect in a bit.

 

But then, it really should have passed as total mileage 10 May 2018 to date is only 1,629 miles, reflecting how it has mostly been on local town duties.

 

So on we go for a bit.

[egg]

Pleased with the emissions given it's running on a lambda sensor that my mechanic had lying about and the original rusty cat!

 

[mrbenn]

Good work! Great to see it on the road for another year.

[mk2_craig]

Well done Egg!!

[egg]

Well, I didn't do much, just replaced a few basics myself and spent money where needed!

 

Having said that, I probably saved it from the crusher.

 

But still, Mrs Egg was quite pleased when it passed, so I don't think I urgently have to get a more modern replacement yet.

[egg]

Let's do a cost update...the cost per mile is higher than an new PCP audi, but I'm a low mileage user at the mo, and it's not really the point...I've added 'ignition re-fresh' to the list of future jobs (Dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs and maybe leads). Plugs last changed December 2016, not sure on other bits.

------------------------------------------

Original purchase price + first MOT 2018 + all associated fixing up = £415
MOT 2019 = £75 (MOT £45, £30 to re-secure the loose CV boot and another minor issue)
Other Labour costs = £377
parts spend = £255.05
tyres spend = £120

total costs = £1242.50

Estimated value of car = £450  

High Priority

Entire new exhaust Done, Complete new exhaust apart from catalyst, which has a small crack...Middle and rear section £76, front down pipe £30, used replacement Lambda sensor also replaced £25, Gaskets £7, new exhaust clamp needed to secure rattling catalyst (£10 10/5/18)
Oil and Filter change Done, Unipart oil £8, Oil Filter £2 (Sept 18)
Deal with 2 worst rust areas Partially done - sticking plaster solution, Vactan applied to 2 worst areas, Bilt Hamber wax used on end of sills and rusty wheelarch. Jan 19, Vactan applied to most underbody areas on a ramp £20
New CV boot Done 24/10 (and fixed again for 2019 MOT)
Ignition switch replaced by main dealer following recall Done Dec 18 cost £0
CV boot re-mounted and new ball-joints both sides Jan 19 £132

Medium priority
Air filter change - done 17/5/18 (cost £5)
Pollen filter change - kinda done 16/5/18 (cost £11)
Fuel Filter change - done 2/6 /18 (cost £6)
Get a spare key - done 15/9 /18 (cost £35)
2 New Front Tyres and tracking - done 24/9/18 (Cost £120), 2 x Nexens at £45 + £30 for the tracking
Cambelt and aux belt (non-interference roulette) - not done
New Rad/Coolant change - not done
replace screws on exhaust manifold heat shield - Partially done £8.
New ignition parts - dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs and possibly leads - not done

Low priority
A general go over with the G3 scratch remover - one side done to limited effect 31/5 /18(cost £0)
new wiper blades - done rear wiper blade changed 31/10, fronts changed 11/11 /18 (Cost £18)
paint wiper arms - rear wiper done 8/6 (cost zero - obviously some materials, but not worth costing!) fronts still to do
Bulbs for door courtesy lights - done 26/5/18 (cost £2.75)
Square front number plate - not done
Refurbish/replace wheel trims - not done
Replace GLX side badges - done 15/6 (cost £8.75)
Change gearbox oil (would be nice to do filter) - not done
Clean/replace PCV valve - done 26/5/18 (cost £3.25)
new captive nut for side light - done 21/6/18 (cost £2)
Paint battery clamp - not done
PAS fluid (oil cooler will need replacing long term  like Dollywobbler- twosmoke has suggested bypassing them - and this could be done when the radiator is replaced) - done 9/6 (cost £6.99)
Smelly (front) washer fluid - done 2/11/18 - flushed front fluid system and new screenwash (cost £0)

[egg]

Bought a Rotor arm from Amazon for £4.33, decent brand too.

After a bit of a fiddle, got the cap off (the screws are hard to access against the air filter housing). I don't have a cap in stock - but this looks ok to me?

Worth changing the rotor though (but the snapped bit is where I levered the old one off) I think.

Job complete with minimum faff. Famous last words.

In less good news the drivers seat weld that has been repaired twice by my local mechanic has partially failed again - so the seat is not that secure, damn it. If I wasn't such a fat boy - it would probably survive longer!

Anyone got a drivers seat for a Mazda 323C? (Yeah, that could be tricky). It will just have to be welded again. 

[egg]

Local mechanic has welded up the seat again, it's not the weld that is failing, the rail is just snapping further and further back. So, longer term a better solution is needed. Cost me £20 this time.

The new rotor arm had the car running like a dream, but now it's developed a nice little hesitation at idle. The old leave well alone mantra, eh? Anyway, new cap also on the way as the parts darts inevitably expands...

Got into a conversation about changing the bent radiator, as it has developed a couple of minor leaks now (it's banana shaped as it has had a tap up the nose in the past) so might get him to do that and he can 'delete' the PAS cooler as well at the same time, as he will have the space to do it.

So on the hunt for an cheap rad now...(has to be for the auto)

 

[sierraman]

Have you thought of swapping the front seats with some from a later 323? Assuming they’d fit? 

 

That distributor cap looks fine, so long as the contacts are clean and there’s no cracks or splits in it. 

[egg]

6 hours ago, sierraman said:

Have you thought of swapping the front seats with some from a later 323? Assuming they’d fit? 

 

That distributor cap looks fine, so long as the contacts are clean and there’s no cracks or splits in it. 

I found a new cap for about £8.50 delivered, so thought worth a go at that price. 

Mechanic suggested finding the seat rails from another 3 door Mazda and keeping the seat itself. So, that may be an option. 

edit: MX3 seats are a straight swap apparently, and might actually be more plentiful than 323 coupes!

[egg]

I swapped the cap over today. And that has made the hesitation worse!  What is happening is that at idle in Drive the car feels hesitant and lumpy.

But as soon as you move it back into neutral - the engine runs smoothly. So maybe a transmission issue (oh no, I love a good panic).

 

[mrbenn]

Are there any breather pipes that could be blocked? Is there an idle control valve that would benefit from cleaning?

[egg]

Thanks, worth a check, I'll have a look. It's not undriveable, just very annoyed that I was trying to routinely service an old part and made the car worse! 

But then, I've handed cars over to pro mechanics for servicing and they've come back worse than they were, so I shouldn't be too harsh on myself...

Also, wonder if it is a base idle issue - I remember Wobbler set that on his 323 recently (same engine)

[mrbenn]

Battery cycle may not be a bad idea.

Is the cap definitely the right one? When I had my Matiz there were two types of distributor cap offered to me at the dealer, one with a breather and one without.

[egg]

I feel like I'm living a parallel life to @TheDoctor at the moment, as I go through the Mazda, though my problems are less at the mo.

One of the things I do know about this car is plugs were last changed in December 2016. So time to swap to see it it improves running.

Here are the old NGK ones, tad oily?!

Now gone for those Bosch ones with 4 electrodes that you don't need to gap, right? Right? Anyway, chucked them on and initial findings positive, can't take it out for a run just now though...

[DoctorRetro]

Definitely sounds vacuum / advance related. 

We need to meet up and compare Mazda problems at some point. ?

[egg]

Let's do a cost update for the welding and ignition parts.

The next biggy would be the rad change. cheapest I've seen is £60. Obv + labour + coolant and soon the bill will add up. Especially, as there may be some fettling to do. The radiator fan housing is bent as well as the rad itself...

------------------------------------------

Original purchase price + first MOT 2018 + all associated fixing up = £415
MOT 2019 = £75 (MOT £45, £30 to re-secure the loose CV boot and another minor issue)
Other Labour costs = £397
parts spend = £279.16
tyres spend = £120

total costs = £1286.61

Estimated value of car = £450   

High Priority

Entire new exhaust Done, Complete new exhaust apart from catalyst, which has a small crack...Middle and rear section £76, front down pipe £30, used replacement Lambda sensor also replaced £25, Gaskets £7, new exhaust clamp needed to secure rattling catalyst (£10 10/5/18)
Oil and Filter change Done, Unipart oil £8, Oil Filter £2 (Sept 18)
Deal with 2 worst rust areas Partially done - sticking plaster solution, Vactan applied to 2 worst areas, Bilt Hamber wax used on end of sills and rusty wheelarch. Jan 19, Vactan applied to most underbody areas on a ramp £20
New CV boot Done 24/10 (and fixed again for 2019 MOT)
Ignition switch replaced by main dealer following recall Done Dec 18 cost £0
CV boot re-mounted and new ball-joints both sides Jan 19 £132
Driver's seat welded up again £20 (June 2019)

Medium priority
Air filter change - done 17/5/18 (cost £5)
Pollen filter change - kinda done 16/5/18 (cost £11)
Fuel Filter change - done 2/6 /18 (cost £6)
Get a spare key - done 15/9 /18 (cost £35)
2 New Front Tyres and tracking - done 24/9/18 (Cost £120), 2 x Nexens at £45 + £30 for the tracking
Cambelt and aux belt (non-interference roulette) - not done
New Rad/Coolant change - not done
replace screws on exhaust manifold heat shield - Partially done £8.
Ignition parts May/June 2019 - rotor arm £4.33, Dizzy Cap £8.50, spark plugs £11.28 = £24.11 (Could do leads still)

Low priority
A general go over with the G3 scratch remover - one side done to limited effect 31/5 /18(cost £0)
new wiper blades - done rear wiper blade changed 31/10, fronts changed 11/11 /18 (Cost £18)
paint wiper arms - rear wiper done 8/6 (cost zero - obviously some materials, but not worth costing!) fronts still to do
Bulbs for door courtesy lights - done 26/5/18 (cost £2.75)
Square front number plate - not done
Refurbish/replace wheel trims - not done
Replace GLX side badges - done 15/6 (cost £8.75)
Change gearbox oil (would be nice to do filter) - not done
Clean/replace PCV valve - done 26/5/18 (cost £3.25)
new captive nut for side light - done 21/6/18 (cost £2)
Paint battery clamp - not done
PAS fluid (oil cooler will need replacing long term  like Dollywobbler- twosmoke has suggested bypassing them - and this could be done when the radiator is replaced) - done 9/6 (cost £6.99)
Smelly (front) washer fluid - done 2/11/18 - flushed front fluid system and new screenwash (cost £0)

[Six-cylinder]

1 minute ago, egg said:

Let's do a cost update for the welding and ignition parts.

The next biggy would be the rad change. cheapest I've seen is £60. Obv + labour + coolant and soon the bill will add up. Especially, as there may be some fettling to do. The radiator fan housing is bent as well as the rad itself...

------------------------------------------

Original purchase price + first MOT 2018 + all associated fixing up = £415
MOT 2019 = £75 (MOT £45, £30 to re-secure the loose CV boot and another minor issue)
Other Labour costs = £397
parts spend = £279.16
tyres spend = £120

total costs = £1286.61

Estimated value of car = £450   

High Priority

Entire new exhaust Done, Complete new exhaust apart from catalyst, which has a small crack...Middle and rear section £76, front down pipe £30, used replacement Lambda sensor also replaced £25, Gaskets £7, new exhaust clamp needed to secure rattling catalyst (£10 10/5/18)
Oil and Filter change Done, Unipart oil £8, Oil Filter £2 (Sept 18)
Deal with 2 worst rust areas Partially done - sticking plaster solution, Vactan applied to 2 worst areas, Bilt Hamber wax used on end of sills and rusty wheelarch. Jan 19, Vactan applied to most underbody areas on a ramp £20
New CV boot Done 24/10 (and fixed again for 2019 MOT)
Ignition switch replaced by main dealer following recall Done Dec 18 cost £0
CV boot re-mounted and new ball-joints both sides Jan 19 £132
Driver's seat welded up again £20 (June 2019)

Medium priority
Air filter change - done 17/5/18 (cost £5)
Pollen filter change - kinda done 16/5/18 (cost £11)
Fuel Filter change - done 2/6 /18 (cost £6)
Get a spare key - done 15/9 /18 (cost £35)
2 New Front Tyres and tracking - done 24/9/18 (Cost £120), 2 x Nexens at £45 + £30 for the tracking
Cambelt and aux belt (non-interference roulette) - not done
New Rad/Coolant change - not done
replace screws on exhaust manifold heat shield - Partially done £8.
Ignition parts May/June 2019 - rotor arm £4.33, Dizzy Cap £8.50, spark plugs £11.28 = £24.11 (Could do leads still)

Low priority
A general go over with the G3 scratch remover - one side done to limited effect 31/5 /18(cost £0)
new wiper blades - done rear wiper blade changed 31/10, fronts changed 11/11 /18 (Cost £18)
paint wiper arms - rear wiper done 8/6 (cost zero - obviously some materials, but not worth costing!) fronts still to do
Bulbs for door courtesy lights - done 26/5/18 (cost £2.75)
Square front number plate - not done
Refurbish/replace wheel trims - not done
Replace GLX side badges - done 15/6 (cost £8.75)
Change gearbox oil (would be nice to do filter) - not done
Clean/replace PCV valve - done 26/5/18 (cost £3.25)
new captive nut for side light - done 21/6/18 (cost £2)
Paint battery clamp - not done
PAS fluid (oil cooler will need replacing long term  like Dollywobbler- twosmoke has suggested bypassing them - and this could be done when the radiator is replaced) - done 9/6 (cost £6.99)
Smelly (front) washer fluid - done 2/11/18 - flushed front fluid system and new screenwash (cost £0)

Delete this post, don't torture yourself.

If you like the car just plod on as time and money allow, if not find something else.

[egg]

Ha! Yes, I know what you mean!

On this one I felt I'd be fully open on costs just for the interest of other shiters.

I don't count any more regarding the Mondeo, because it is ludicrous...

[DoctorRetro]

"Delete this post" 

*Quotes entire post so it can't be deleted*

??

[egg]

6 hours ago, TheDoctor said:

Definitely sounds vacuum / advance related. 

I've just spotted a hairline crack in the air intake pipe. I mean it's tiny, so not sure how much effect it would have (nothing like the crack Wobbler had in his that he wrapped in bacofoil, lol)

[Six-cylinder]

3 hours ago, TheDoctor said:

"Delete this post" 

*Quotes entire post so it can't be deleted*

??

I will delete my repost if requested, but I really meant don't think about running cost of a car you like that way. It is a hobby as well as transport and that has a value as well.

[DoctorRetro]

2 minutes ago, Six-cylinder said:

I will delete my repost if requested, but I really meant don't think about running cost of a car you like that way. It is a hobby as well as transport and that has a value as well.

I know, I was just kidding. 

?

[egg]

Yup, I'm spending on this car because all the evidence suggests (even though it is not the best one left) that there's only double figures left in the UK. It's my civic duty (geddit)

Also, I really like it.

[SiC]

Still cheaper than drinking/smoking/gambling (delete as applicable)

[nigel bickle]

Change all the ht leads. Swopping the cap out disturbed them , allowing the microscopic  hairline fractures to leak sparks ( more). 

It will continue to deteriorate each time you try to improve it, as the leads fail.  

Easier to spot in winter on a dark night, the only reliable proof now is to grab each lead , individually, whilst the engines running!  

New, good quality leads will transform the tickover.

[500tops]

On 2/13/2019 at 5:55 PM, 500tops said:

Spotted this locally registered example today in Lidl car park, Plympton.

 

Please excuse the potato-cam pic

A *slightly* better picture taken recently...

[egg]

On 6/27/2019 at 8:06 AM, nigel bickle said:

Change all the ht leads. Swopping the cap out disturbed them , allowing the microscopic  hairline fractures to leak sparks ( more). 

I will be taking this advice, as the leads don't look in the first flush of youth.

However, I've done 50 miles on the new plugs and the idle is quite a bit happier.  Pulls a bit smoother too.

Rockauto do a good price on a new (aftermarket) air intake pipe as well, so will probably get all spendy again. I've got their usual 5% offer waiting to use.

More expensive versions come with the little vacuum connectors aswell

[egg]

New leads on the way, NGK items no less.

Meanwhile the period keyring I bought last year bit the dust

So another period keyring randomly of Danish origin was obtained!