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Posted

I reckon £1K will be a fair price for it. The paint is shite, but it's otherwise excellent - it's had a lot of recommissioning work by myself and Mr.Tamworthbay (who owned it previously) and drives spot on !

 

Edit : Also, don't think of it as money spent, think of it as an investment*.

Oh feck. Completely the wrong answer. I was hoping you'd say £2.5k-3.5k and I could justify easily that I can't buy it. Not only that, you're (iirc) in Andover, so not a million miles away from me. Might speak to the father-in-law to see if he'd like to be a buyer & temporary custodian for me. They're in Newbury and have spare drive space, so collection and storage would be easy for me. Either that, or someone else buys it from here and sell it on in 6 to 12 months time here again. :P

 

One advantage of moving house though means more room for shite in the future...

 

I fear this will be another AS bargain that I miss. :(

Posted

One last drive...y tho are you selling me?

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20170816_201020.jpg

 

I left the lucky sixpence as I found it...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20170816_201153.jpg

 

And off she goes for a new life in Stroud....

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20170816_203043.jpg

 

Passage of time does funny things......Wouldn't have given a toss about these once upon a time, now it has a face.  

Hope it goes to a good home and a long life, definitely keep the sixpence in it - Coronation year and look how long that has lasted.  

 

When my Oxford went I left a Churchill Crown in it as a token in the hope of keeping it safe from banger racing!

  • Like 4
Posted

The guy seems keen, wants to sort the issues and use it. It might not last many more years without serious bodywork, but as there are less than 250 on the road I'm glad someone is going to have a go.

 

I think I did my bit for UK Favorit preservation!

Posted

Favorit has arrived safely in Stroud. Polish guy who collected it had been through Poland, Germany, Holland, France and London and back since Saturday.

 

The buyer hasn't actually seen it yet though as he is off on his hols!

 

He has the joy of an MOT free Skoda to return to....

  • Like 2
Posted

A very clean old thing decided to start pissing fuel - so after replacing the missing jacking pad...

 

post-19568-0-75636800-1502974353_thumb.jpg

 

This is why "SH" or "KS" on a numberplate is a reason to run a mile.

 

post-19568-0-10594300-1502974415_thumb.jpg

 

post-19568-0-94457800-1502974497_thumb.jpg

 

Now, I'd describe that as "extensive surface rust and tension bars rotted through", rather than clean.

 

Can't decide if gearbox weirdness plus paint plus filler in roof plus this = get rid. Will see how I feel when I have my new car, but I will have to fix the fuel leak before driving this. Fortunately I've done it before on the yellow one.

 

Time to soak the stabiliser bar fastenings in WD40.

Posted

^^^^^^Holy crap...............that looks worse than my old East Coast , New England trucks.............Has it been parked up in the ocean.

Posted

No, but I should remember the golden rule - look VERY closely at a car which is for sale 3 months after the MoT test.

 

It's pretty typical for North East/Scottish Borders cars. Mechanics there are untrustworthy shitehawks*, they salt the roads 4-6 months of the year and it's always raining.

 

* sweeping generalisation earned through experience.

Posted

No, but I should remember the golden rule - look VERY closely at a car which is for sale 3 months after the MoT test.

 

It's pretty typical for North East/Scottish Borders cars. Mechanics there are untrustworthy shitehawks*, they salt the roads 4-6 months of the year and it's always raining.

 

* sweeping generalisation earned through experience.

 

As a sweeping generalisation the one thing this lacks is to mention the amount of animal faeces spread across the roads and therefore plastered over the underside of the car...

 

Guess how I know that.

Posted

Probably by being a mechanic, but the mechanics I refer to aren't enthusiasts on forums - they're assholes that charge £1100 to weld up a Laurel then hand it back with plates /stuck/ to the car with underseal, no welding done at all... as an example.

 

Over 100 cars, three towns and Edinburgh, it was always the same. Wooler? MoT on a car with a floor made of fibreglass. Edinburgh Citroen specialist? Handed my car back wih blowing manifold gasket unrepaired and a 2 foot scrape.

 

I cannot abide dishonesty. Problems, not wanting to do the work, saying it's going to have to cost more, whatever, all good. Bodging and lying is unacceptable - and far worse when you consider non-car savvy people get that service unwittingly, all the time.

  • Like 2
Posted

I fucking hate this weather. Apart from getting soaked through cycling home, I went outside to fiddle with the car to find it starting to rain again.

 

Not only that, the sun is setting so much earlier now. 8:30pm here tonight, by this coming Tuesday, it'll be 8:20pm already.

 

:(

Posted

You need to get your carzebo going for all weather tinkering.

 

I went back down to the garage tonight and got the cortina running. When it was coughing and farting yesterday it felt like the timing was way out, which is weird given I've not changed anything. I moved the distributer a few degrees (well about 20) and it fired up.  I've moved it to the point it sounds better but it's still bogging down a bit when you stab the throttle.

I need to set the timing properly, so if there's any shitter with a timing light holidaying in the Scottish Riveria give me a shout.

Posted

You need to get your carzebo going for all weather tinkering.

 

I went back down to the garage tonight and got the cortina running. When it was coughing and farting yesterday it felt like the timing was way out, which is weird given I've not changed anything. I moved the distributer a few degrees (well about 20) and it fired up.  I've moved it to the point it sounds better but it's still bogging down a bit when you stab the throttle.

I need to set the timing properly, so if there's any shitter with a timing light holidaying in the Scottish Riveria give me a shout.

 

 

None of my timing lights are on holiday but I've got a nice yellow Gunson one all period-like for a Cortina. PM me your address and it's yours.

  • Like 3
Posted

No idea how good they are, but you can get timing lights off the bay less than 20 quid.

 

My dad was telling me you can and how you can set the timing on cars with a 12v test light. I need to read up a bit more on it to fully understand.

 

Planning to move house, so car port is off the list now. Next house, I won't convert the garage! Will* be bigger too, so hopefully more room for stuff too.

Posted

Fuck me. I got bored of watching TV so took the cylinder head off the Twingo...

Posted

Got a timing light in Cultin Cort. Could mibbies even drop it off as not working tomorrow.

  • Like 2
Posted

I was eyeing up gazebos but couldn't find anything decentish in my budget. All the reviews of the ones about £100 said they ripped easily and were shit

Posted

Cool, I'm working tomorrow but I could pick it or get it after work (I don't want to put you our your way).

Posted

No idea how good they are, but you can get timing lights off the bay less than 20 quid.

 

My dad was telling me you can and how you can set the timing on cars with a 12v test light. I need to read up a bit more on it to fully understand.

 

Planning to move house, so car port is off the list now. Next house, I won't convert the garage! Will* be bigger too, so hopefully more room for stuff too.

 

I set the timing on the 2CV statically with a 12v light. In fact, I think I used an old fog light I had sitting around, before switching to a side indicator. You're merely checking that the points spark at the right moment as the engine turns. A drill bit in the flywheel locks the engine in the correct place. Adjust points box (no dizzy on a 2CV) until the light just comes on, job done (remove drill bit!). A strobe merely does this check much more quickly, with the engine at operating speed. A strobe gives greater accuracy. Must check the timing on the Bluebird actually, as I just guessed...

Posted

Rover isn't getting much (any) interest on eBay, even priced lower than most of the similar cars. Haven't even had 'lowest price m8' yet.

Not sure where else is a good place to post it, C&C perhaps?

 

Seems like things will bee looking like this for a while yet. 

 

35791361244_3f8249f5ef_b.jpg

Posted

Interestingly my dad reckoned you get more accurate timing by doing it statically. Well at least it might have been when he was doing this for a living back in the 70s...

 

I guess timing statically achieves exactly the same as doing it with a timing gun (dynamically?)?

Posted

I'm not a member, does their for sale section have a post limit? I think Vulgalour offered to cross-post it, might have to send a PM.

Posted

Strobes are good for checking vacuum advance is behaving, that sort of thing.

Posted

Interestingly my dad reckoned you get more accurate timing by doing it statically. Well at least it might have been when he was doing this for a living back in the 70s...

 

I guess timing statically achieves exactly the same as doing it with a timing gun (dynamically?)?

 

Strobe is the only way to check what's happening when the engine is turning though, so it'll show if the timing is bouncing around all over the place, or not advancing enough as engine speed rises - or too much.

  • Like 2
Posted

Rover isn't getting much (any) interest on eBay, even priced lower than most of the similar cars. Haven't even had 'lowest price m8' yet.

Not sure where else is a good place to post it, C&C perhaps?

 

Seems like things will bee looking like this for a while yet.

 

35791361244_3f8249f5ef_b.jpg

Not allowed on the block paving?

Posted

I am, the Volvo is put on the drive usually. I'd been out to the petrol station and was stopping back home briefly, and this opportunity presented itself. Couldn't park there usually anyway as the fella that lives opposite us goes out in his car multiple times a day due to his wife having polio.

Posted

Re: ignition timing - I used to set my cars up statically too, I'd use a spare sparkplug on th king lead, nudge the dizzy which ever way then turn the crank, watch the timing markings, listen for the crack of the spark, adjust and try again.

 

This only worked if the springs in the dizzy weren't gubbed, though - my second Metro (in 1992) had 10 degrees of slack in the springs... at low revs it was all <pink> <pink> <pink>

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