JohnK's Volvo - 740 GL 'E' Reg - Now belongs to JohnK.

[Guest Hooli]

You know I should worry that I recall that from working in a dealer 20 years ago & never owning one of these cars.

[cpjitservices]

That list you've linked doesn't refer to the DRLs at all. 

 

Otherwise it seems to be correct, except the owners manual has rear fogs on fuse 3 and DRLs on 25 as I mentioned.

Thanks, I can check later on see what my fuse 3 and 25 does. Can only try it! 

 

If needs be, I'll try some more bulbs! 

[danthecapriman]

Just been and checked in mine. Fuse 23 is for DRL's which is the very bottom fuse on the left...

 

IMG_0760 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

Oh fuck!

That explains why my DRL's don't do anything then. It's burnt and melted to buggery! How? Why?

I think I'll be going on without then.

[Ghosty]

23? Weird, that's n/a on mine.

[CreepingJesus]

Fuses are on the end of the dashboard, against the driver's door on mine, and the relays are in the centre console!

[danthecapriman]

Odd that they're all seemingly different?

This ones different to my previous E reg saloon too.

 

I don't think mines fixable with that molten damage having looked! The remains of the old fuse and the fuse box are now one part! They've melted together!

All the others are fine though.

And it appears that my ash tray is totally unused though, so not all bad news.

[CreepingJesus]

RML2345 of this parish has a well developed theory that 700/900 models are a parts bin lucky dip for the most part. 200s not so much, there wasn't as much model variation, and the P80s were better sorted in this sort of sense, but then as discussed on here from time to time, the trim designations are often meaningless on those.

RML had a bit of a palaver sorting out calipers, which weren't what they should've been. The headlamp relay on mine is apparently unobtanium, despite all the electrics being Bosch, and similar to German motors. Great cars, but frustrating at times when it's left off the road for want of something.

[danthecapriman]

RML2345 of this parish has a well developed theory that 700/900 models are a parts bin lucky dip for the most part. 200s not so much, there wasn't as much model variation, and the P80s were better sorted in this sort of sense, but then as discussed on here from time to time, the trim designations are often meaningless on those.

RML had a bit of a palaver sorting out calipers, which weren't what they should've been. The headlamp relay on mine is apparently unobtanium, despite all the electrics being Bosch, and similar to German motors. Great cars, but frustrating at times when it's left off the road for want of something.

RML's theory sounds bang on to me.

My Caliper situation was the same. Data panel in the door shut said my car has a Bendix system/caliper set up. It doesn't however, it's got Girling!

I reckon they just used whatever was available at the time the car was assembled by the looks of things.

[Guest Hooli]

Just been and checked in mine. Fuse 23 is for DRL's which is the very bottom fuse on the left...

 

IMG_0760 by Dan Clark, on Flickr

 

Oh fuck!

That explains why my DRL's don't do anything then. It's burnt and melted to buggery! How? Why?

I think I'll be going on without then.

 

 

Probably related to the dull light (this is the correct car right?)

Dirty contacts etc increase the resistance of the circuit so the amount of amps flowing increases. If it's not enough to melt the fuse it can be just enough to get it bloody hot & suffer exactly what you've got there.

[danthecapriman]

Probably related to the dull light (this is the correct car right?)

Dirty contacts etc increase the resistance of the circuit so the amount of amps flowing increases. If it's not enough to melt the fuse it can be just enough to get it bloody hot & suffer exactly what you've got there.

Could well be. It's certainly not fixable like it is though as it's welded the fuse remains into its holder and distorted the fuse box. It's actually burnt and distorted badly down the side with charred black marks on it! Could of caused a fire that.

I could snip the wires from this fuses circuit where they go into the fuse box and solder an inline fuse holder in its place instead.

Is it worth bothering though?

[Guest Hooli]

Depends how much you want DRLs?

I'd chop the power off before the fusebox even if you don't do it all, just in case there is still power in the circuit. As you say it could cause a fire & I'd never quite trust it.

[cpjitservices]

DRL's disabled, fuse 23 was the one!

 

I will fix them though!

[CreepingJesus]

RML's theory sounds bang on to me.

My Caliper situation was the same. Data panel in the door shut said my car has a Bendix system/caliper set up. It doesn't however, it's got Girling!

I reckon they just used whatever was available at the time the car was assembled by the looks of things.

Sounds remarkably similar to his issue.

 

I suppose with Volvo not being a huge volume maker at the time, they might not have had the whip hand over big suppliers like Girling or Bendix in the way that say, Ford or Renault or VW would have. So it may be the same calipers as a Granada one week, and the same ones as a Renault 25 the next week.

Mind you, just getting bits can be a trial at times!

[cpjitservices]

23? Weird, that's n/a on mine.

Fuse 23 on mine!

[cpjitservices]

Shes gone in for MOT!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Anxious.

[CreepingJesus]

Fingers crossed!

[cpjitservices]

Results are in.

 

 

[Guest Hooli]

Doesn't look too bad.

[cpjitservices]

Doesn't look too bad.

Its not, Track rod ends getting done today - Leg will be in tomorrow so that will be sorted - only worrying thing is the speedo not illuminating! If that cant be fixed then it cant get a Pass, and how quickly that problem can be sorted is anyones guess! Parts etc.

[Guest Hooli]

Wasn't that down to your dimmer? bypass it, or new bulbs in the cluster needed.

[cpjitservices]

Wasn't that down to your dimmer? bypass it, or new bulbs in the cluster needed.

Looks like a failed rheostat yeah, not sure how easy it can be bypassed - I have the VDO clocks and apparently its not that simple to bypass on those. 

[Guest Hooli]

I don't know the details of them, but I'd be surprised if you needed much more than a resistor to mimic mid-range on the rheostat.

[cpjitservices]

I don't know the details of them, but I'd be surprised if you needed much more than a resistor to mimic mid-range on the rheostat.

Hopefully it will be fairly easy, have left it for the garage to sort anyway! 

 

Tomorrow I should have a full MOT - after xmas Ill got those advisories sorted!

[cpjitservices]

As a matter of urgency I need the wiring diagram for the back of the instrument cluster - garage needs it! Someone has messed with the wiring behind the dash and made a right mess

 

Cant get an MOT without it.....

[CreepingJesus]

Saw you'd asked on Matt's, cos that's where I went to as well!

This any good instead?

http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/740-760-780/volvo-740-760-780-service-and-repair-manual/

[dollywobbler]

Surely you can just rig up any old bulb to illuminate the dash for MOT purposes? Doesn't matter if it's on all the time. Most moderns are like this it seems.

[cpjitservices]

I think Ian that will be the next stage... I saw that page on Matt's cheers, think it's wrong though butnindid manage to find a PDF with the 87 wiring diagram....

 

However, I have purchased a used but working set of clocks. They are VDO.. only problem is the seller can't remember the year they came from. D,F or J is what he can remember. So hope they work in my E reg. More news tomorrow.

[danthecapriman]

Fingers crossed your replacement clock set works.

 

Have you got a Haynes manual for one of these? Normally there's wiring diagrams in them.

If you don't and want one PM me your address and I'll post you one for free! I've ended up with two as both my 740's had one when I got them.

[cpjitservices]

Thanks mate, yes I have one but didn't see a wiring diagram in there. I'll double check.

[Guest Hooli]

Wiring diagrams are normally right at the back.