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JohnK's Volvo - 740 GL 'E' Reg - Now belongs to JohnK.


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Posted

Next Job.

 

The dreaded heater core!!!!!!!!!!!

 

DIY.

Rather you than me! Isn't it meant to be a bit of a bastard on these?

It's one job I've never done on a 700 though.

Posted

I'm gonna grab some popcorn and watch this one. I might have to delve into the depths of the heater system myself to work out why it's only hot or cold with nothing in between. Not the worst complaint ever, but it's annoying all the same. May be the heater control valve vacuum system.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hmmmmmmm its a task I will HAVE to undertake, I have a wet drivers foot well and its coolant! This primarily means, me removing the whole dash of which I have found a very very useful guide on how to do it step by step.

 

I also have a full workshop at my disposal.... so all should go well.

 

Though, I have spent a fair bit of money on her these past couple of months, MOT, Exhaust, Cambelt etc - even at discount its a fair old chunk of cash not that I'm complaining but it is nearly Christmas and have 3 kids and a wife to buy prezzies for, so this one may have to wait!!! Afterall, if I can get the foot well dry, I can hold if off.

 

Ideas on how to dry the foot well on a postcard please.....

 

Its not a full blown puddle, just damp.

Posted

I may be able to post the guide here if anyone wants a skegg through it?.

 

Its in PDF format.

  • Like 1
Posted

I also have the GreenBooks wiring diagrams book, if I can post it here - then let me know if you need it!

Posted

Hmmmmmmm its a task I will HAVE to undertake, I have a wet drivers foot well and its coolant! This primarily means, me removing the whole dash of which I have found a very very useful guide on how to do it step by step.

 

I also have a full workshop at my disposal.... so all should go well.

 

Though, I have spent a fair bit of money on her these past couple of months, MOT, Exhaust, Cambelt etc - even at discount its a fair old chunk of cash not that I'm complaining but it is nearly Christmas and have 3 kids and a wife to buy prezzies for, so this one may have to wait!!! Afterall, if I can get the foot well dry, I can hold if off.

 

Ideas on how to dry the foot well on a postcard please.....

 

Its not a full blown puddle, just damp.

Before you start ripping the dash out...

 

I've had this issue on my old saloon. I thought it was the heater itself leaking. It made the front carpet wet with antifreeze.

It's most commonly the heater control valve. On these early non A/C cars the valve is up under the dash, just above the pedals near the transmission tunnel area. It's literally a little valve in one of the heater hoses connected to the heater switch and the pivot point seals wear out and you get antifreeze dripping out of it onto the carpets. It looks suspiciously like the heater matrix has leaked at first.

If it is this it's easier to do than the matrix, however new RHD valves are not available at the moment. Volvo/Bosch were going to reproduce another batch due to demand last I heard though...

It's well worth checking this first!

 

To get the antifreeze out of the carpet I sponged it up as much as poss with hot soapy water then wet vacced the whole footwell area on a warm day, then leave to dry with the door open to 'air' it out.

It's horrible sticky smelly stuff if it's left!

  • Like 1
Posted

Before you start ripping the dash out...

 

I've had this issue on my old saloon. I thought it was the heater itself leaking. It made the front carpet wet with antifreeze.

It's most commonly the heater control valve. On these early non A/C cars the valve is up under the dash, just above the pedals near the transmission tunnel area. It's literally a little valve in one of the heater hoses connected to the heater switch and the pivot point seals wear out and you get antifreeze dripping out of it onto the carpets. It looks suspiciously like the heater matrix has leaked at first.

If it is this it's easier to do than the matrix, however new RHD valves are not available at the moment. Volvo/Bosch were going to reproduce another batch due to demand last I heard though...

It's well worth checking this first!

 

To get the antifreeze out of the carpet I sponged it up as much as poss with hot soapy water then wet vacced the whole footwell area on a warm day, then leave to dry with the door open to 'air' it out.

It's horrible sticky smelly stuff if it's left!

Right ok, thanks for that!

 

I'll check it out.

 

Would be a lot easier than the Heater core, however if there isn't a part replacement available...

  • Like 1
Posted

Right ok, thanks for that!

 

I'll check it out.

 

Would be a lot easier than the Heater core, however if there isn't a part replacement available...

It's well worth checking, it might possibly save you an awful lot of work and then finding it's still leaking!

The heater hose passes through the bulkhead just above where the clutch and brake pedals are and you'll see the valve there. There's a silver 'wire' linkage on its pivot point that goes up to the heater switches.

On mine it was a steady drip from the centre pivot, but if you run the car, heater switched on, it might make it drip worse (warm pressurised system) so might make it easier to see.

 

The part isn't available new unless you can source a new old stock one somewhere? Or maybe get a good used one from a scrap car. Unfortunately, there's not many ways around this until/if Volvo make some more.

Some people on the VOC forum have come up with temporary fixes etc but...

I don't even think it's possible to fix the old part as it's all sealed up and glued together.

  • Like 1
Posted

I can confirm, it is the heater valve! Dan, you the man! 

 

Lots of pink old coolant shite round the valve, i didnt actually see a leak but it was wet with a fresh drip on my hand. Blue shite right below too. 

 

Thats the boyo.

  • Like 2
Posted

Right, been given a number by Hull Volvo.

 

This guy is the bees knees when it comes to Volvo Parts that are rocking horse shit to find.

 

You may have heard of him.

 

 

Details: T J Volvo Spares: Terry Stone: 01964537829

 

Will ring him later see if he has a heater valve!

  • Like 1
Posted

I can confirm, it is the heater valve! Dan, you the man! 

 

Lots of pink old coolant shite round the valve, i didnt actually see a leak but it was wet with a fresh drip on my hand. Blue shite right below too. 

 

Thats the boyo.

Good news and bad news I suppose! You won't have to do the heater matrix but there's no replacement valves!!

 

Maybe it can be bodged up with silicone sealer or similar? Or maybe just remove the valve for now? Join the two rubber hoses together with some copper pipe or similar. It'd mean the heater would always be on hot but it's winter now anyway. You can always just turn the blower off if it gets too hot!

  • Like 1
Posted

Good news and bad news I suppose! You won't have to do the heater matrix but there's no replacement valves!!

 

Maybe it can be bodged up with silicone sealer or similar? Or maybe just remove the valve for now? Join the two rubber hoses together with some copper pipe or similar. It'd mean the heater would always be on hot but it's winter now anyway. You can always just turn the blower off if it gets too hot!

Can do, though the contact I put above may have one! Though itll be an after xmas job now! In the meantime as you say I Could just join the pipes together. How does this work? Does the pipe go through it or is there a pipe at front and behind? 

 

Ta.

Posted

Good news and bad news I suppose! You won't have to do the heater matrix but there's no replacement valves!!

 

Maybe it can be bodged up with silicone sealer or similar? Or maybe just remove the valve for now? Join the two rubber hoses together with some copper pipe or similar. It'd mean the heater would always be on hot but it's winter now anyway. You can always just turn the blower off if it gets too hot!

This is probably the best solution to be honest!!!!!

Posted

From memory, the heater valve is basically a plastic tube with the valve in the centre section. One end of the tube pokes through the bulkhead and has one of the engines heater hoses attached. The other end (under the dash) has the heater matrix's hose joined.

To get them off is pretty simple but the hoses can be incredibly tight to slide off the plastic tube! Mine was an absolute bitch to pull off. But it was the cars original one and been sat there since 87!

 

If you wanted to remove the valve, just remove both hoses from the old valve and use a similar length section of copper plumbing pipe or something similar and install that between the two rubber pipes in place of the valve.

  • Like 2
Posted

From memory, the heater valve is basically a plastic tube with the valve in the centre section. One end of the tube pokes through the bulkhead and has one of the engines heater hoses attached. The other end (under the dash) has the heater matrix's hose joined.

To get them off is pretty simple but the hoses can be incredibly tight to slide off the plastic tube! Mine was an absolute bitch to pull off. But it was the cars original one and been sat there since 87!

 

If you wanted to remove the valve, just remove both hoses from the old valve and use a similar length section of copper plumbing pipe or something similar and install that between the two rubber pipes in place of the valve.

And whilst doing so, try not to loose all coolant! ;)

 

Thanks mate I'll give it a bash at some point over the weekend if I get chance. Got a long trip coming up so may not get time to go in depth - I think for now, someone mentioned Silicone.... I'll do that for now and plan to get the valve bypassed.

 

I guess yours has been bypassed Dan? Doesn't sound like a long job! Piece of copper pipe, join both pipes use sealer, tighten with Jubilee clips and job done.

 

Can I get to both sides of the pipes from inside? or am I going to have to remove the back pipe from the engine bay?

 

Sorry - first time doing one of these!

  • Like 1
Posted

From memory one hose/jubilee clip is in the engine bay, right near the bulkhead. The other is inside the car up under the dash, this one you should see if you look up at the valve unit itself.

 

The one I changed was on my old gold saloon. It was doing exactly what yours is doing - dripping onto the carpets! To do mine I removed the drivers seat then layed down where the seat was so I could look up under the dash easily! I also removed my brake pedal for extra space (car was an auto) if yours is a manual I'd suggest removing the clutch pedal too if you start struggling for space. Tbh, if it's not seized onto its hoses you should be ok but, as I say, mine was seized solid so I needed extra space to heave the valve off the hose.

 

My current estate is all ok still. No leaks. Yet! So everything's working as it should.

 

As a temporary fix to stop the carpet getting wet all the time while your using the car - I got a smallish plastic bag, and wrapped it around the valve getting the valve inside the bag as much as I could the cable tied it to the valve/pipes to catch any dripping antifreeze.

Just remember to remove it and pour the antifreeze out every now and then!

  • Like 1
Posted

From memory one hose/jubilee clip is in the engine bay, right near the bulkhead. The other is inside the car up under the dash, this one you should see if you look up at the valve unit itself.

 

The one I changed was on my old gold saloon. It was doing exactly what yours is doing - dripping onto the carpets! To do mine I removed the drivers seat then layed down where the seat was so I could look up under the dash easily! I also removed my brake pedal for extra space (car was an auto) if yours is a manual I'd suggest removing the clutch pedal too if you start struggling for space. Tbh, if it's not seized onto its hoses you should be ok but, as I say, mine was seized solid so I needed extra space to heave the valve off the hose.

 

My current estate is all ok still. No leaks. Yet! So everything's working as it should.

 

As a temporary fix to stop the carpet getting wet all the time while your using the car - I got a smallish plastic bag, and wrapped it around the valve getting the valve inside the bag as much as I could the cable tied it to the valve/pipes to catch any dripping antifreeze.

Just remember to remove it and pour the antifreeze out every now and then!

Not a bad idea!! Thanks

  • Like 1
Posted

One problem I would like to get to the bottom of also, is the heated seats dont work! Which is really annoying because it means I cant boast about them!!

 

If I press the switch on either seat the button/switch LED comes on, but nothing happens - no warm arse. 

 

 

Have read online and this could be a loose connection on the thermostat / seat sensor. Does anyone know where I can locate the thermostat? I'd like to check all connections etc. 

 

Of course the elements could just be worn out but I'd like to see what I can do about all the connections etc first. 

 

Ta.

Posted

"Sound - REDBLOCK"

That still gets me: how people stare in Asda's car park as the thing grumbles into life, and settles down to its grumpy, lumpy idle. Forgot what cars used to sound like did you? :D

  • Like 2
Posted

Seeing as your thread seems to be turning into the Brick Lickers Support Group...

post-4104-0-28469500-1511432903_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

The Council Estate has a length of copper pipe where the valve used to be, it was like that when I got it and I've had it the best part of six years now and it's still sound. I'd probably be doing the same to the Turbo when it goes, if it goes, and hasn't already been done - can't honestly remember 'cos it's been parked up for a bit. 

IIRC heated seats are something to do with a ceramic fuse under the seat and it's normally only the drivers seat which fails 'cos it's the one that's on all the time. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Both have gone on Emo Brick, but I recall Maister Fowler saying he'd checked for current and it was getting as far as the seats. There's power to the driver's seat adjustment, so probably it's the elements. Poo. Getting leather covers off and on is a pig of a job, so that one's kicked in the long grass.

  • Like 1
Posted

Both have gone on Emo Brick, but I recall Maister Fowler saying he'd checked for current and it was getting as far as the seats. There's power to the driver's seat adjustment, so probably it's the elements. Poo. Getting leather covers off and on is a pig of a job, so that one's kicked in the long grass.

AHhhh well not the end of the world I guess!

  • Like 1
Posted

For s/h spares, you might try Lakes Volvo, on the A1 in Wyboston. There are lots of 740s there and plenty of good secondhand parts. Here is their website:

 

http://www.lakes4volvo.co.uk/

 

To catch the drips from the leaking valve, you could try wrapping a suitably sized, disposable baby's nappy around the valve area - essentially it is a pad stuffed full of liquid-absorbing granules. They have the capability to absorb a huge amount of liquid (tried and tested in drying out footwell carpets in cars with leaking windscreens!) and as the makers like to advertise on TV, they don't leak. Pick a size that will wrap around the pipe, pad-side in, wrap it around and use a bit of tape to hold it in place. I don't think you'll need to change it very often, until you get a new (or s/h) valve assembly.

 

Hope that helps. I have run 740s for years, saloons and estates and I think they are great cars.

  • Like 3
Posted

For s/h spares, you might try Lakes Volvo, on the A1 in Wyboston. There are lots of 740s there and plenty of good secondhand parts. Here is their website:

 

http://www.lakes4volvo.co.uk/

 

To catch the drips from the leaking valve, you could try wrapping a suitably sized, disposable baby's nappy around the valve area - essentially it is a pad stuffed full of liquid-absorbing granules. They have the capability to absorb a huge amount of liquid (tried and tested in drying out footwell carpets in cars with leaking windscreens!) and as the makers like to advertise on TV, they don't leak. Pick a size that will wrap around the pipe, pad-side in, wrap it around and use a bit of tape to hold it in place. I don't think you'll need to change it very often, until you get a new (or s/h) valve assembly.

 

Hope that helps. I have run 740s for years, saloons and estates and I think they are great cars.

Not a bad idea, think we have about 100 spare nappies from one of the little ones. Good Idea!!!

 

Thanks

 

Ghosty.... How can you sleep at night knowing a fellow Volvo lickers seats don't work!! Damn you man!!

 

LOL.

  • Like 1
Posted

Both my seats work too, now. I followed this guide to get mine working, I imagine it will work for brick Volvos too

 

Robert DIY's videos are great, if on the slow side. There's none of the jumping past the one stage you couldn't have worked out for yourself, which is a failing of a lot of "how to" videos. If there's a hidden screw or clip he'll tell you about it. His videos are mostly about the 850 and V70 but a lot of it is relevant to the older models, what with Volvo tending not to change stuff just for the sake of it.

Cool, thanks mate.

 

Will check it out!

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