Project 1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter - After nearly 7yrs, The End (for me)

[SiC]

Has this been doing the miles yet?!

No. Not had time yet.

 

Its distributor is still sitting on my office desk still waiting to be fitted and static timed!

 

After last nights weather chucking more moss from our house roof onto it, it could do with a wash too.

[adw1977]

After last nights weather chucking more moss from our house roof onto it, it could do with a wash too.

 

A rolling MG gathers no moss.

[320touring]

A rolling MG gathers no moss.

Not true, Moss are a parts supplier for this lot;)

[SiC]

Not true, Moss are a parts supplier for this lot;)

Funny you should say that. This has just appeared in my inbox!

 

 

(Note the spelling mistake in their mailshot...)

[busmansholiday]

Email them back pointing out their error and claiming your free 123 distributer as the free gift for being the first one to spot it.

[Guest Hooli]

Funny you should say that. This has just appeared in my inbox!

 

 

(Note the spelling mistake in their mailshot...)

 

Is that a Mk2 Astra ragtop?

[Sigmund Fraud]

Is that a Mk2 Astra ragtop?

 

Looks like a Golf IV* cabrio to me... So far more likely to turn into ferrous oxide or break down than anything BL has ever produced.

[Guest Hooli]

You might be right at that, I'd forgot they did a Golf skip until you mentioned it.

[Sigmund Fraud]

VW also seem to occasionally forget they do one... Which is why the second and fourth generation cabrios are lash-ups based on the first and third generation models respectively.

[SiC]

Moss also doesn't stock any parts for VWs either.

[SiC]

Had some time today to get this out back together again. Also I'm still not happy with the oil pressure. But I'll come to that in a moment.

 

First off was to finger the distributor hole to clean out any crap (felt a couple bits of grit in there) and oil the hole. Don't want any distributors getting siezed up here!

 

 

Statically timed it at 10degrees. Getting good at this now I've done it so much. I now do it with a multimeter on continuity mode. Once I get it roughly right, I then tweak it so I get in the tens of ohms range. This would be equivalent to a bulb just flickering on dimly.

 

 

Then I remembered to reconnect the vacuum line for the distributor at both ends. Started her up.

 

Everyone loves a cold start video right?

[Video]

 

Did another quick tune on the carbs. I think I've got them pretty good. Took plugs out but they were pretty dirty. I hope this is just because I haven't driven it under load for a while.

 

 

 

The pump also seems to be actuating much more when the engine isn't running. Now clicks every minute or so. Is this right?

 

Checked the carb overflows with the ignition on for a bit and nothing came out. No idea why the pressure is dropping or how. Clamping the fuel pipe just after the filter makes it hold its pressure for like an hour.

 

 

 

One wierd thing I found was that if I revved the engine when cold, the oil pressure dropped??! What's that about??

 

Once warm the oil pressure seemed to sit around the 40psi mark at idle. Revving it made it increase to 50psi odd. Never drops below that. It certainly never used to!!

 

[Video]

 

I wonder if the oil filter is shit and offering too much resistance. Possibly even the over pressure valve is being actuated.

 

The exhaust is also very smokey, even when warm. Not sure if it's just because it's cold outside but I'm sure it used to run smokeless once warmed up. Smoke isn't condensation as it smells. My nose isn't good enough to determine if it's fuel or oil though. Again oil pressure/filter related?

 

[Video]

 

ARRRRRGH. HELP!!!!

[SiC]

Current love for car: 2/10

[SiC]

I know what you're going to tell me. I need to do this with the oil pressure gauge...

 

 

Oh and I did another compression test after tuning. So engine fully warm and battery fully charged. This time I got:

Cyl 1   125psi
Cyl 2   125psi
Cyl 3   122psi
Cyl 4   130psi

I reckon the £9 Chinese compression tester is just shit. I get a slight higher reading if I leave the gauge flat rather than upright. So I'm not worrying about the pressure drop. Especially as it's consistent between cylinders.

[Guest Hooli]

Just drive the bloody thing, a good run would clean it up a lot I bet.

[320touring]

What Hooligans said.

 

If it's timed up ok and starts/idles then go thrash it.

 

If it blows up at least you have put some miles on it before having to rebuild

[plasticvandan]

If it runs go and drive the bastard.THE worst thing you can do is continually start it up for 5 mins on the choke,fouling the plugs and filling the engine with damp.

So long as you have SOME pressure,it is fine.The oil you used was bargain bucket,it will burn more if engine is a bit old.

"Smoke" just looks like normal cold exhaust vapor to me,all that starting up and being sat will have filled the engine and zorst with damp.if it was blue,its oil,if its black,its fuel.looks grey to me.

Drive it.

Clean it out,Get it hot.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Take it out for a thrashing!!!! Just do it!

[SiC]

I had every intention to go out in it this afternoon when I woke up! Unfortunately by the time it stopped raining and get outside to finish putting back together, it got dark. I've just nipped out in the Civic and followed a gritter. Sod going out on salty roads.

 

I'll probably lob another filter on it (Mann this time) tomorrow, just to allay my concerns. Like three quid from ECP on a code.

 

The good news it that it's fully back together and ready to go for a run! Also despite it raining heavily outside the last few weeks, the foot wells are dry. Some positives...

[cort16]

There’s no point in trying to apply logic or a scientific approach to these old crates we own

Just drive it and hope for the best . This is what the did when they were brand new.

[Squire_Dawson]

Some observations.

 

If you remove the two distributor clamp-to-block bolts and withdraw the whole lot there is no need to ever disturb the timing. I would hazard a guess the engine needs Super petrol; as long as you begin with the book timing figure you can advance it little by little and road test after each adjustment to get the best performance.

There is nothing wrong with the oil pressure. In fact, it's excellent. Idling oil pressure doesn't matter, it can be as low as 10 psi. What does matter is the hot running temperature which for a B Series should be in the region of 40 psi.

You should stop worrying and constantly tinkering as you'll end up putting more faults on the car - it always happens - just do the normal servicing and use the bloody thing!

 

P.S. please discard NGK plugs at earliest opportunity.

[SiC]

Some observations.

 

If you remove the two distributor clamp-to-block bolts and withdraw the whole lot there is no need to ever disturb the timing. I would hazard a guess the engine needs Super petrol; as long as you begin with the book timing figure you can advance it little by little and road test after each adjustment to get the best performance.

There is nothing wrong with the oil pressure. In fact, it's excellent. Idling oil pressure doesn't matter, it can be as low as 10 psi. What does matter is the hot running temperature which for a B Series should be in the region of 40 psi.

You should stop worrying and constantly tinkering as you'll end up putting more faults on the car - it always happens - just do the normal servicing and use the bloody thing!

 

P.S. please discard NGK plugs at earliest opportunity.

Thanks. My concern with the oil pressure is how it's changed so much and so suddenly. Even before the oil change. The oil+filter change has changed it again.

 

Fuel wise the last owner filled it with 95 (I asked). However he only put around half in to get it going. I then put in a quarter of a tank or so of Shell super to get home. Once home I then topped the tank of Sainsbury's super again. Some of that leaked out when I jacked it up. That's all the fuel it's had in the last 6 months or so depressingly.

 

I have no idea how much fuel is actually in the tank as the sender has completely broken now. However the tank needs replacing anyway (getting a garage to do that) and I'll get fresh fuel put in. There is a petrol station about 20 minute drive from here that still does 4 star so once it's actually using, the plan is to use that.

 

What's wrong with NGKs? Any other recommendations? MG forums recommend NGKs and say to avoid modern Champion plugs.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Theres nowt wrong with NGK plugs, they only make about half of all the spark plugs in the entire world, I'm sure theres no key nugget of information that theyve missed!

 

No need to fret about the pez grade either, I would never waste money on 98 for summert like this, its just more money down the drain. Its not like it has any knock detection or owt that can take advantage of the higher octane.

[SiC]

I think the timing (both cam and ignition) and compression is set for 98 octane though - as that's what 4 star was. As there no knock detection (apart from the human ear), using a lower octane fuel is more likely to knock.

[Squire_Dawson]

Go to your next local autojumble and pick up some Champion N9Y and old points sets for a few pounds. The NGK will do for the time being. As for the fuel tank, don't let the garage fleece you, it'll only be held on by a few bolts or may have straps, you could do it yourself if you have drive-on ramps. Be sure to give the new petrol tank a few coats of something to ward off corrosion. I remove my fuel tanks every couple of years to treat them.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

well if it knocks a bit you can always give the dizzy a little tweak till its silent, no worries

[vulgalour]

Seems like you're at that point where you need to get to know it.  A couple of nice clear days when the roads aren't covered in salt/ice/morons and you can give it a much needed Italian tune-up.  You'll learn with time what your car likes and doesn't.  I was told plenty of times that super is the only fuel for classics but I've experienced more classics running like a bag of crap on super than I have on regular.  Likewise, ignition parts are much of a muchness usually, the NGKs will be fine in a B.  From memory, B tank removal is as simple as a jack under the tank (helps support it and bring it out from under the car easier), unbolting the tank from inside the boot and that's pretty much it.

 

I reckon the problems you're having at the moment are related more to the car doing a lot of idling and it being cold weather than any inherent problem.  Just have to drive it a little bit and build up your confidence it's not going to leave you stranded and most of this issues will either go away or dramatically increase in one big noisy bangy death moment.

[SiC]

The garage I use unlikely to fleece me. If anything, as I'll be supplying parts, the amount they'll ask for in cash will be too cheap and me feeling guilty will then give them more... (E.g. they wanted to only charge me 30 quid for Laguna ABS pump change)

 

Doesn't look a terribly difficult job to change but it'll be a massively easier and quicker job up on a lift. The front of the tank looks like someone has bodged it by filling it with sealant. So might be a bit of faffing around with that. Plus the thought of pissing around with a large, heavy body of volatile fluids isn't something I want to do.

 

I'll also get them to sort out the other loose ends too like welding the castle rail, diff oil and wheel bolt that has its thread damaged. Plus get them to properly retune those SUs.

 

The new replacement tank I have is supposed to be coated and galvanised. The manufacturer recommends not to remove the coating. Thanks to being a MGB, it was only £125 with fittings and available next day!

[busmansholiday]

I run the roadster on Tesco Premium grade petrol as I found it hated the normal shite so I save that for the lawnmower and Mrs BMH's C3 (which needs a bit of welding for the test, when it stops raining/snowing).

 

Pray for a dry day and go for a blast down the M4 or M5.......

[SiC]

I have absolutely no idea if I've got a unleaded converted head on mine or not. Mixed views on if you need it. Some say yes others say they're tough enough not to need it. Especially if run on leaded for years.

 

Replacement heads aren't too expensive though - around £450 new for a unleaded and £600-800 for a fully ported and polished performance job. My plan is/was to just run it on unleaded for the most part until the head starts loosing sealing then replace.

 

The second owner who bought it in 2002 is probably unlikely to have converted it. I have a feeling he didn't really do anything apart from either storing it or doing the odd bodge. First owner quite possibly might have done though, as it looks like they very much looked after it and threw plenty of money at it.

 

Running on super doesn't bother me too much. I had to do it with the Smart Roadster. Over 3k miles it's insured for this year (if I ever manage that), the added cost won't be a whole lot more.

[SiC]

Seems like you're at that point where you need to get to know it. A couple of nice clear days when the roads aren't covered in salt/ice/morons and you can give it a much needed Italian tune-up.

Exactly this. I'll have more confidence when it's not nearly sub-zero outside to drive it more. If it does FTP, it's much less of an pain if it's >10C. The last outing I kinda forgave it and gained a lot more confidence. Then it obviously broke and kicked my confidence in it. Completely and squarely in the balls.

 

Speaking to one of the guys in Moss today and he said that all that I've replaced should make it a good, reliable runner now. Also mentioned that they have more SU pumps returned from failing or breaking than pretty much everything else they stock. Thought that was interesting.

 

I'm really hoping now that I'm at the end of the tunnel. Honestly can't think of much more that can cause me grief. Apart from the wonky tracking I noticed the other day. That looks a bit of a job as the track-rod ends appear to rusted to be part of the rack. So I guess possibly the cheapest/easiest thing will be a new rack. That can wait.

 

I guess my fear with the engine oil pressure is exactly because of that. It's pretty much the only thing that could fail catastrophically.

 

Front discs have glazed over, but it still brakes pretty well. So again I'm leaving that. Especially as there is a bit of rust on the piston. Hence pads + disc change will no doubt involve rebuilding or replacing the front calipers.

 

The chap there has swayed me too in my thoughts of the next car I'm going to get (garage acquisition means the MGB will thankfully stay). I was leaning heavily towards something with a bigger engine but potentially complicated to fix and not that reliable. Especially as the car I was considering recently has had a engine swap. I've now more moved towards something that I know has been a reliable runner for its current and last owner, just not 100% exactly what I was after. But means I can use it immediately with some confidence it'll work. Work at least longer in one stretch than the MGB has had since I bought it!

 

I can see how it's so easy taking cars on, have problems and then finding you're spread too thinly trying to get them all working. Doesn't help that I'm chronically slow at fixing cars. Not helped by me getting side tracked and fixing/replacing stuff as I start a job.