Sold VW Sharan tdi - time to say goodbye

[stripped fred]

I thought i'd start a new thread for the Sharan i bought off Krujoe last week. I apologise that it's relatively modern for on here even though in most of the 'normal' population a 13 year old car is nearly ready for the scrapyard! I'd like to get it reliable as the few journeys in it have left me very impressed. It's very relaxing to drive with the tiptronic auto and very comfortable. It does feel a bit bus like but in a good way. I'm already planning some trips out with the family and grand parents to try and take full advantage it.

 

I thought i'd list my plan of attack here although i realise it may not be the most riveting read. As you may remember i had an issue with limp mode on the drive home. Several issues to be precise. That's top of my list to try and sort. I've bought a full service kit off ebay with oil and all the filters so i'm going to do that tomorrow, I've also bought some forte turbo cleaner and diesel injector cleaner so will run those through it to see if it makes any difference. Also planning to get the codes read with my new lead and copy of vcds lite. Finally, to see if i can remove the egr valve and give it a clean and a last resort will be the Mr Muscle treatment for the turbo, when i've found it, but must admit that does scare me a bit!

 

Here's my list:-

 

Priority

Sort limp mode - 5 pronged attack

Oil and filter change

Pollen, fuel and air filter change

Put original battery back on and see if it works after a 24 hour charge (i doubt it)

Get a replacement tyre (possibly a part worn) as one of the rears keeps going down

 

Once it's running ok

Check front brakes and see why they're a bit shit

See if i can sort out the parking sensors which bleep but don't work (possibly a sensor)

Book in at ATS for aircom regas (as they apparently don't charge if the systems's borked which i suspect it is)

 

If a keeper

Cambelt and water pump (i texted the previous owner and asked nicely if he knew whether this had been done - he ignored me - i think it's overdue)

Sort out minor bodywork issues - stone chips and surface rust on rear arches

Change ATF fluid (maybe, if i'm brave)

Get a set of car mats

Possibly get a spare wheel and holder (it hangs under the rear) as the originals are absent

 

I'll just add that i've used the car a couple of times this week for short journeys and there's been no limp mode. I'll need to give it a good thrash down the motorway to see if it's properly fixed as i bought it to us to France in July so don't want to be pulling off at every service area to restart the bloody thing!

 

Will let you know how i get on tomorrow.

[taxi paul]

Would I be right in thinking that the 1.9 is the engine to have in these or relevant galaxy. So no dpf and pretty reliable..

[AMC Rebel]

For the parking sensors you can diagnose the dead one by putting it into gear ign on and then stick your ear right next to each one. You can hear the working ones ticking, the dead one is er.... dead. Worked for my jaaag and ZT anyway. Check on compatibility too - my jaaag sensors were actually a Ford part - guess which was cheaper?

[stripped fred]

Would I be right in thinking that the 1.9 is the engine to have in these or relevant galaxy. So no dpf and pretty reliable..

I think the PD engines are pretty good as long as you use the proper oil and change it regularly.

[stripped fred]

For the parking sensors you can diagnose the dead one by putting it into gear ign on and then stick your ear right next to each one. You can hear the working ones ticking, the dead one is er.... dead. Worked for my jaaag and ZT anyway. Check on compatibility too - my jaaag sensors were actually a Ford part - guess which was cheaper?

Thanks. I'd already read that so will try in a bit. I think you can also use vcds to diagnose. Would be nice to get them working as I've never had parking sensors on a car before and this is a big beast.

[stripped fred]

Still not started doing any actual repair work as spent the last 2 hours making these bloody wooden pre ramp things. This is mark 2 as had a bit of an incident with the mark 1 version when the o/s one shot out resulting in much tyre smoke and driver anxiety. These versions seem to work well. Anyway, on with the job!

[stripped fred]

I've now got vcds lite connected. I've managed to find a few fault codes for the engine but they're a bit vague. Can anyone help? Also found out which parking sensor is faulty and got a few codes for the aircon which doesn't work.

[stripped fred]

I've taken the airbox off and the pipework to the egr. I can see the turbo from underneath the car. I can't see how to remove the egr and the pipe from that to the turbo to do the Mr muscle fix that way. I'm thinking about undoing the exhaust side of the turbo and squirting it in there as I've seen it done that way. Also, squirting some inside the egr without removing it. Finally, I can't find the actuator to see if it moves freely and try and work it a bit but I'm going to have another look in a minute.

[bigfella2]

Have a look on you tube for a guide, as all pd engines are very similar. It is a bit of a faff to do on an Ibiza and i should imagine that has more room between engine and bulkhead. As for the fault codes i would erase them all and start again, as some of those could be years old and irrelevant or fixed.

[stripped fred]

Have a look on you tube for a guide, as all pd engines are very similar. It is a bit of a faff to do on an Ibiza and i should imagine that has more room between engine and bulkhead. As for the fault codes i would erase them all and start again, as some of those could be years old and irrelevant or fixed.

Thanks. I've just got the Mr muscle so going to have another look. I cleared the fault codes.

[SiC]

 

You put the cursor on top of one of the codes!

[SiC]

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17965/P1557/005463

 

For the other code.

[stripped fred]

Sorry, it's p1672. I'll write up what I've done later as it's not gone too bad. By the way the pipe I taped up has coolant going thought it! I thinks it's for the egr cooler. Perhaps need to think about replacing that.

[bigfella2]

I have a caddy van that i have just changed the engine on, anyway i have binned off the egr cooler when i put the new engine in. Wtf do you even need an egr cooler for anyway!! So if you need one let me know.

[stripped fred]

I don't see the point of an egr cooler either. Do they really get that hot?

[SiC]

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Exhaust gases can get pretty hot.

[Dave_Q]

Yeah exhaust gas temperature on this will be 500-600°C, you want to cool that down before putting it in the cylinder or you'll get less POWAH!

 

Immobiliser code - ignore

Fan code - not a priority

P1557 charge control pressure deviation - this is saying the ECU didn't get the boost it asked for.

 

The Mr Muscle trick will probably work.

 

This is what the turbo looks like off the car.

 

 

The actuator is the can looking thing on top in that picture, a vac hose connects to the nipple looking thing on it. 

The actuator pulls on the rod to move the vanes in the turbo.

 

The best way to do the Mr Muscle is to put it in through the EGR pipe, then with the stuff in the turbine housing move the actuator rod until it feels nice and smooth. If possible remove the actuator to do this, or unbolt the actuator from its bracket but leave it attached to the rod - I think it pulls on the rod rather than pushes so this will work to move the actuator easily.

 

To get the EGR pipe off is normally hex/allen head bolts of around 6-7mm.

 

You might have to remove the EGR valve from the inlet manifold to get the pipe off as the bolts go in from the bottom, I think.

[KruJoe]

 the pipe I taped up has coolant going thought it! 

 

Hey, that's maybe why you were getting the odd whiff of coolant...

[stripped fred]

Had an enjoyable day working on this. Was out of my comfort zone a few times but I think that's a good thing!

 

[sorry for long post] After i'd made my wooden attachments for the ramps i have (which i'm pretty pleased with) I tried to remove the egr but had to admit defeat as it's just too difficult being at the back of the engine. I took off all the ducting to it and sprayed some Mr muscle inside it a couple of times.

 

I had a look to see if I could remove the egr pipe to use a tube for the mr muscle but that was also difficult. I decided to disconnect the exhaust from the turbo and go in that way. One bolt was a right bitch but I got it undone after an hour of swearing at it. After using the Mr muscle I managed to find the actuator which was very stiff even after the treatment. I'm going to try the method suggested by Dave Q tomorrow by undoing the actuator and going from there.

 

I managed to get the air and manky fuel filter changed. I bought some hose clip pliers off eBay which made it a lot easier. I half filled the filter with forte injector cleaner and half diesel which is in addition to the turbo cleaner in the fuel tank. Hopefully it won't explode when I start it up!

 

Other jobs for tomorrow are an oil and filter change, pollen filter, see if I can get the parking sensors sorted, use sone stronger tape on the egr coolant pipe until i can find a new one, treat a couple of areas of rust underneath near the sills and then go on a blast to see whether I've sorted it!

 

One final thing to mention is that there is evidence of a slight leak from the autobox. Something I may need to sort out later or maybe just top up. I wonder how easy it is to work out the oil level in there?

[stripped fred]

Hey, that's maybe why you were getting the odd whiff of coolant...

I hope so Joe. It would make sense. The rubber hose had been rubbing on a hose clip which I've moved slightly. Just need to try and find a replacement hose now.

[KruJoe]

Is there an auto box dipstick somewhere?

I don't know about this model, but on many cars, you top up auto oil via the dipstick tube.

[stripped fred]

Is there an auto box dipstick somewhere?

I don't know about this model, but on many cars, you top up auto oil via the dipstick tube.

There is a way to check the level but it has to be at the correct temperature. It's something I'll look into. There was a film of fluid on the sump so it's something I'll need to keep a watch on.

 

I also checked the front discs today and they were quite rusty. I'm going to change the pads and discs which should hopefully sort the poor braking.

[KruJoe]

I was surprised to see the back ones had been done - I wonder why they didn't do the fronts also...

[stripped fred]

I was surprised to see the back ones had been done - I wonder why they didn't do the fronts also...

Probably the type of owner who only fixes things when they go wrong/fail an mot. I think it's had some care in the past though. Probably an extensive history file knocking about somewhere.

[stripped fred]

The front brakes look a bit neglected. Might need to budget for new calipers too unless I can free them off.

 

Finished the Mr muscle treatment. I can move the actuator lever but it still needs some force. Feels a bit smoother though. Thought about dropping the actuator itself but the nuts are on the top of it making it awkward and they feel a bit seized.

[stripped fred]

Got the old parking sensor out which was masticed in. Tried testing its resistance but no reading. Will get another one to see if I can get the parking sensors working.

[stripped fred]

Lovely day to be working on my car. Kids and wife all away too. I'm in shite heaven.

[stripped fred]

Just been on a 15 mile test drive. No limp mode as i mashed the pedal to the floor along two stretches but it came on once for the last bit. I'm hoping the fuel treatment might help after I've run it for a bit. The exhaust still smells of oven cleaner so maybe still working.

[Dave_Q]

Good effort Fred.

 

The actuator rod will need some force to move if it's still attached to the actuator can as it's got a spring in or something.

 

You've probably fixed the problem now but I guess you'll only know after a few more drives.

[stripped fred]

Good effort Fred.

 

The actuator rod will need some force to move if it's still attached to the actuator can as it's got a spring in or something.

 

You've probably fixed the problem now but I guess you'll only know after a few more drives.

I'm hoping so. I did try and remove the actuator but it was too difficult as one nut kept rounding and there was hardly any room and I couldn't see what I was doing. I have some scars from this battle!