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320touring's Rank Taxi 2 - 2004 Skoda Fabia TDi PD


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Posted

I'm amazed it's still alive tbh, it must be coming up for a record for you...

Lol!

Posted

I have just done something very very bad:(

 

Went out to this with the posh oil and filter for it, jacked it up and discovered an undertray held on with

 

Rusty small hex screws (of indeterminate size- as in none of my bits would fit)

 

Rusty Phillips head screws (which chewed up as soon as I looked at them)

 

And a fetching display of cable ties.

 

 

 

As I lay on the cold damp tarmac, I thought to myself "fuck it".

 

Popped the engine cover off, swapped the filter and then topped her up with the fresh oil.

 

Meh, it'll do until I can get another filter and somewhere dry to do it.

 

s-l400.jpg

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PELA-6000-Oil-Fluid-Extractor-Pump-6-Ltr-Car-Bike-Boat-Mower-/282280740080?hash=item41b93e44f0:g:doAAAOSwPCVX86VV

 

I am of the opinion that it does a better job than a drain and refill. This is based on the new oil being cleaner than you usually get with a diesel and also having to put seven litres in to refill instead of the usual six.

  • Like 2
Posted

And saves stripped sump plugs, those are definitely the way forward.

 

 

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Posted

I quite often use a sucker on pd engines . The undertrays on the pisswet and a4 are a pain in the dick so I use my suction drainer .

Boring fact - on the pd you need to refill with 3.8 litres if you drain from the plug - takes 4 litres with the sucker !

Posted

Ye'll never do it the other way again .

 

 

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Posted

In more pleasing news, Just filled the bugger when leaving the Scotoshite meet this evening..

 

535.7 miles on 37.31L of finest derv.

 

65.27mpg or 8.2p per mile (based on £1.177/L)

Posted

It's the only way possible to change the oil on a Smart car engine. ...Unless someone has installed a non OEM sump with drain plug on.

 

post-20071-0-28481900-1487834789_thumb.jpg

 

Just remember to have the oil warm before you do it, otherwise it takes forever (30-45minutes) to drain. I bought it originally to do ATF change on the Laguna. Also used it for the same purpose on the Saab I had. Works great for that sort of job.

Posted

I my Pela.

 

Those VAGTDI engines have really cheap sumps, aluminium just like you'd wrap your sandwiches up in. Suck it up, buttercup.

 

Also great for cleaning out the few hundred ml that resides in the filter housing

Posted

I'm thinking about a Pela now too, if only cos of the severe arseache it was changing the oil on my gfs TT. Think I'd still need the undertrays off to reach the filter tho sadly.

Posted

Pela Ordered for £36sheets delivered from eBay.

 

Now to work out if the PD will run on used 5w30;)

Posted

They're quite fussy about oil.

In the engine or "in the engine" ?

 

I gpt the right spec oil for servicing it:)

  • Like 2
Posted

Used engine oil as fuel absolutely mings. My friend ran his Cavalier on it and it was painful to breathe when driving behind it. He also went through about three fuel filters per mile.

  • Like 1
Posted

60odd mpg and your pissing around with waste oil as a fuel - feck me it's true what they say about the scots 😄

Posted

60odd mpg and your pissing around with waste oil as a fuel - feck me it's true what they say about the scots 😄

Hook line and sinker;)

 

As you Say its doing OK, and as its the commuter vehicle its not been fiddled with

Posted

Exciting* updates!

 

Firstly, I can had Pela so the oil change will be done this week:)

 

Secondly, she's returned her 2nd 65mpg tank..

 

537.7 miles on 37.25L means a total cost of £43.84 (@£1.177/l) or 8p per mile.

 

I certainly can't see past it in terms of frugality, but I'm rapidly reaching a decision point.

 

Currently, it sips fuel, tootles along and displays poor handling with the added bonus of tired dampers.

 

I could easily boost performance somewhat (assuming the insurance increase is suitably small) but that would be folly prior to addressing the tired dampers and handling.

 

I can replace the 4 dampers for circa £220, another £60 on top mounts, and some fresh tyres (£200 for 4 decent brand) would go a long way to solving those issues.

 

That investment done , it'd make the cambelt a more likely job (already having spent more than the purchase cost on New bits).

 

At the end of that time and effort I'd still have a 2004 Fabia. Is it worth the effort? What sayest thou?

 

I will attempt to get a look at the car in detail over the weekend to see what else is likely to be needed come MOT time.

 

 

It has MOT til Sept 17 so no great rush..

 

Unless I s3e a replacement that catches my eye;)

Posted

It is unlikely to ever set the world on fire with performance but it can be the trusty workhorse and parts hauler.

Do the necessary and put the extra money into the other members of the fleet, This is what I would* certainly* do.

Posted

Lol based on your alternator advice on a certain 182 thread..I'm inclined to do the opposite of what you say:)

 

I can see the argument for investing in it as its the commuter and earns the money for the others on fleet, but I also see it as a £400 shitter that is working, and that time and money could be better spent on others in the fleet.

 

I shall sleep upon it, and consider options based on a review of it's condition shortly!

Posted

It's all down to how long you intend to keep it. It's doing you a grand wee turn and as you say it's the 'earner' of the fleet.

 

I quickly realised that the Megane was going to do its job well so thought it was worth spending on, again as this is the car that takes me to the station and is used at the weekend when Yvonne is working.

 

At this level, I don't think value can be measured in ponds_sterling, but in the cars value to you as a tool.

 

The other question is, where would you be if you just ran it into the ground and had to find another car that suits your not inconsiderable commuting requirements.

 

Or sod it all because Daaaiimmlaaahhh 😀

Posted

A day of double dissapointments with this today...

 

Firstly the latest tank was a paltry 57.43mpg and secondly,

 

It had a major grump on when trying to start it after the Northern Powerhouse meet.Shaking like a dog shitting razorblades and not catching.

 

The rev counter needle didn't seem to be moving very much (first mark on the counter) so I dunno if it is Crank sensor related, or if its an issue with the Anti shudder valve (if my PD lump has one- a 54 plate seems to be mid change?)

 

I think it must have heard the chat tonight about its future:(

 

Anyone any thoughts re symptoms?

Posted

Was the engine cold when you tried to start it? Any issues I've had with crank sensors have been after the car has sat for between half an hour and a couple of hours. Cold starts were no problem.

Posted

Was the engine cold when you tried to start it? Any issues I've had with crank sensors have been after the car has sat for between half an hour and a couple of hours. Cold starts were no problem.

Eh it had been sat for about 2h45 mins after a 50min drive, so aye likely not stone cold..

Posted

Have you done anything with the fuel filter recently?

Looking for a connection between the mpg drop and trying not to start.

Posted

Have you done anything with the fuel filter recently?

Looking for a connection between the mpg drop and trying not to start.

Interesting thought, no I have not.

 

We'll see how a cold start goes this morning.

Posted

I think it will have an ASV, I would start with a code read - preferably VAGCOM.

 

You should be able to check the RPM during cranking - I think they need to reach a minimum speed (300rpm?) before the injectors will inject.

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