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My Fleet - end of year update


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Posted

bring big french tat to knockhill

 

youre closer than i am :P

Tbh if the ferry was doing a deal it wouldn't be that much of a run! Can't see it happening this year but I might be up for some red hot XM drag racing action next year, especially if there was a tour of FOADWORX on the cards....

 

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Posted

excellent progress! hopefully the pipe gives in!

It'll come off now - I was too busy trying to be careful with it but as a replacement is on the cards I'm not so fussed....

 

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Posted

Getting quite annoyed with this now. The pipe is seized solid in the water pump housing. I've twatted it about that much trying to get it off its probably beyond just bodging with self amalgamating tape. There's no clearance at the back of the water pump at all to get any purchase on it.

 

Any ideas?

 

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Posted

take the waterpump off? feel free to call me a rude word though

Funny I do have a new timing belt kit.....I think even if I remove the pump access to the rear housing still won't be great.

 

I'm going to buy smaller mole grips tomorrow and see if I can get them in place and go from there.

 

Failing that I've a friendly mechanic not too far from here, I could always hand it over to him but he might never speak to me again ;)

 

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Posted

Have you tried mucking about with heat? i.e. pouring boiling water over the housing that it's seized into, or stuffing ice cubes up the inside of the stuck pipe? Or application of a blowtorch. Or a combination?

  • Like 1
Posted

Have you tried mucking about with heat? i.e. pouring boiling water over the housing that it's seized into, or stuffing ice cubes up the inside of the stuck pipe? Or application of a blowtorch. Or a combination?

Not yet. I kinda went in with the "it's 9 o'clock, 20mins pulling at that pipe and it'll fall neatly out" mentality.

 

On Thursday evening I'll approach the job properly ;)

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

can you get at it enough to chop the pipe flush, then chop it down the middle and peel it out?

Posted

can you get at it enough to chop the pipe flush, then chop it down the middle and peel it out?

Don't think so.....well I could probably chop it flush but not down the middle.

 

I do think there's clearance for smaller mole grips, which I could tap about a bit. I think rotating it should break the seal

 

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Posted

Don't think so.....well I could probably chop it flush but not down the middle.

 

I do think there's clearance for smaller mole grips, which I could tap about a bit. I think rotating it should break the seal

 

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Just to add to that according to the coolant system diagram I have shows an O ring at that point leading me to believe it's not that tight a fit

 

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Posted

I WIN!!!!!!

 

d2070cc0a25d6e1358473eb199e45d9c.jpg

 

Feck me was that a struggle. Can't work out why it was so tight - the end of the pipe is just a flat flange, it doesn't so much go into the housing, but sits flush against it and is held in tight by the clamp jobbie

dda4df38144bf66a6d3bd560a8d64a7e.jpg

There was also no o ring, as there should be. However It may have fallen out when I took the pipe off, never to be seen again.

 

Inside the pipe is a mess, its clearly rusting from the inside out so a patch up wouldn't have lasted long

 

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Posted

Well done!

 

Returning to brakes, they feel odd because you're opening a valve that holds back loads of pressure, rather than normal brakes where you provide the pressure. They've been like that since the DS. Odd.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have some pipe confusion now. Looking at the diagram below, it's part 9

ce410090e3598ccc69ffbc642e6d7039.jpg

The part of the pipe that enters the thermostat housing is on the left. To me it looks like there's around an inch of pipe beyond the flange which would go into the housing.

 

However

 

The pipe I took off the car ends at the flange. Initially I thought feck, I've snapped it off flush against the thermostat housing. BUT looking at the pipe there's no evidence of there being more to it. To me it looks like one piece that's been flared at the end:

792f7b4169b3674ef239fc63f71182ba.jpg6345c0c32c53197734cde6cf87adb15e.jpgd11be07e092a1827a5fc9004fe88438b.jpg

As the car is still jacked up I'll have another poke in the housing later, but I don't think there's anything left in it

 

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Posted

Mind you've done bloody well getting the bastard off! I don't understand how that flange works though...

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Posted

Mind you've done bloody well getting the bastard off! I don't understand how that flange works though...

This goes on the other side and compresses it against the housing:

01043b461558a48c18b2fbc242cb1e2b.jpg

d7c29ba8101469c63eed0c934a580ce7.jpg

 

I'm maybe thinking they redesigned the pipe at some point, hence the one in the diagram having a bit to go into the housing.

 

It's quite soft steel so I imagine when new it was tightened against the housing (there's a lip it sits inside) which caused the flare to deform and seal

 

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Posted

Mind you've done bloody well getting the bastard off! I don't understand how that flange works though...

Also - if this was a daily driver I'd be cursing it, but with no rush it's been enjoyable!!

 

And cheers - this arrived today

0c1cbed259089dfd8d600b3953b4cffd.jpg

 

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Posted

YEEEEEHA said me, about 20 minutes ago. Having another look at the thermostat housing showed that yes indeed, there was more pipe inside it and I had snapped it clean off flush with the housing.

 

I think it's constructed as two pipes and joined at the flange, hence snapping cleanly off.

06008b7dcc10be7738beb644c7e6b3b3.jpg<br />That took an hour to get out. Great fun.....no clearance for the dremel so in the end I sharpened an old screwdriver and chiseled along its length until it split, then managed to tap it out.

Feel triumphant but knackered - it was 100 times harder because lack of access and having to lay contorted under the car.

The new pipe is going to be wrapped in self amalgamating tape before being installed as I really don't fancy taking another one out.

 

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  • Like 4
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Quick update, no pictures unfortunately.....

 

The new pipe was wrapped in self amalgamating tape and fitted to the car. Water was added and the car left to run for a while with a cardboard sheet underneath.

 

No water leaks but a slight drop of oil and LHM. the latter seems to be coming from the bit just behind the radiator on the passenger side (regulator?)

 

Assuming we are now water tight Ill fit the new rad and put some proper coolant in.

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

The old radiator did not have the facility for the cooling fan sensor so there is a bridged blue connector which makes the fans run constantly. The fan sensor was in the car so hopefully you can fit it to the new radiator and restore proper operation.

 

I'm glad to see you got the pipe done; now you can enjoy driving it!

  • Like 1
Posted

The old radiator did not have the facility for the cooling fan sensor so there is a bridged blue connector which makes the fans run constantly. The fan sensor was in the car so hopefully you can fit it to the new radiator and restore proper operation.

 

I'm glad to see you got the pipe done; now you can enjoy driving it!

Cheers Jonathan - wondered why the fan ran constantly!

 

There's nothing wrong with the existing radiator, but I got a new valeo from Amazon for £12 so would be silly not to swap it out.

 

Assuming its the correct radiator......

 

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Posted

A drip of LHM is probably nowt to worry about. Puddles are more alarming, and thankfully, pretty rare.

  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Well. Time for a quick update.

 

The 307 daily driver failed it's MOT and the micra is away in Liverpool at the minute. So the XM has to come onto the road sooner than expected. I had hoped to sort the hydraulic pump out first but no matter.

 

So yesterday I was working from home, the weather was mild and dry so I gave the car a mini vulgalour.

1fa81e6dccb4866b2f768b8d064c14e9.jpg

 

Left the rubber mats out as the carpet is damp underneath them

 

I then attached the jump leads, let the glow plug light go out and she fired up on the first turn of the key. Lovely.

 

Hydraulic pump done it's impression of a skeleton in a biscuit tin before the car majestically* rose to full height. Quick check of the LHM level showed it was low. Bugger.

 

Poured some LHM in. Then some more. And a bit more again. Just over 500ml went in before the gauge sat where it should. Done some citrobatics, back to full height again and the level is grand.

 

Left it to run for an hour, car gets up to temperature happily, heater blows hot, no water usage

 

So I left the cardboard of truth under her and checked tonight when I got home from work.

556004cf2fc24f9421e64d3e03c65ea2.jpg

 

The bigger stain on the right is LHM, towards the front of the car. The other two are oil.

 

Tried to start it there now and away she went without jump leads. Result. Up to full height and the LHM level appears to be where it was yesterday, maybe a mm lower but could be my eyes.

 

Tomorrow it shall be taxed and I shall cruise in style* to work and back. Round trip of 20 miles. If it likes that I'll do an airport run later on which is more like a 30 mile round trip......

 

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Posted

FRENCH OFF

 

fa555401f3c31db0fc528d3a36f317ec.jpg

 

Have some frankly shocking pictures:

 

The leak appears to be coming from some of the pipework around the sphere at the front. Obviously I have little clue what this bit does. I did read somewhere you can't just nip up the connections as that'll make the leak worse. So I'll leave it for now.

b2fd5df486f52facddf29bdaf6ae7cde.jpg

541a4f3cac1833b10f60f55f51714082.jpg

 

I noticed it doing some French things there. Winding the drivers window up causes the central locking to make a half hearted attempt at locking.

 

Passenger window went down but refused to go back up again without a helping hand.

 

Otherwise many things still work :D

 

Once the kids are off to bed I'll throw a sponge round it.......

 

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Posted

I miss her you know!

Also - meant to say the hard starting has gone away since I refitted the boost pipes after sorting the water leak - now once the preheat light goes out (that works now too, self fixing!) it fires up near enough on the first turn.

 

It has also developed an alarming turn of speed on boost as I discovered on my tiny Street. So your xantia pump seems to be just the job

 

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Posted

I'm glad it's starting properly now, I must have messed up when I replaced the pump. The central locking/windows interface did occurr a few times under my stewardship but it always fixed itself before I got round to looking at it. The thing that the has about 7 hydraulic pipes going into it is the flow distributor valve which modulates the hydraulic pressure to operate the Peugeot design power steering rack, I suspect the LHM oozes from this or the accumulator. In either case it's likely to be an O ring or pipe seal thatwould require a major fiddle to replace so i just gave the area a bit of a spray with brake cleaner and a wipe with a rag pre-mot...

  • Like 1
Posted

So this morning it took a good few turns to start, and just when I thought the battery was starting to fade, BOOM we have the sound and smell of clag.

 

Made it the couple of miles to school no bother

 

ac7eb6c68a9e87d62b8dc9722f8bc799.jpg

 

Kids genuinely impressed with the way it dispatches speed bumps.

 

The the real test, ten miles of stop start nonsense. Gulp.

 

6c1f4afea6677415ecfe47b26b486cc9.jpg

 

No cause for concern as it made it to the ropey carpark near work

790a556f9b06c7dc6a2c1d9f5076b03e.jpg

 

Quick check of LHM and coolant and none was used. Hooray!

 

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  • Like 2

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