Another BX - Scotland road trip

[mat_the_cat]

Onto the A pillar now, and it doesn't look too bad, on this side at least.

I've cut the rust out this afternoon and cleaned up the edges of the hole, but have come inside now to thaw out!

[mat_the_cat]

As usual, once you start cutting, things are worse than first thought. It's been so cold that I didn't want to take my gloves off for photos, so only have one of the end result.

Moving onto the other side, looks like more fabrication will be required.

Made a brief start on cutting out the rot on the driver's side, but didn't get that far. Small steps!

[vulgalour]

That all looks like The Usual.  First time around on this one I take it, so it's done pretty well to wait this long before needing some sparkle time.

[fatharris]

I'm looking to start prepping my BX for welding at the arse end next week, got a million other jobs to crack on with too

Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

[mat_the_cat]

13 hours ago, vulgalour said:

That all looks like The Usual.  First time around on this one I take it, so it's done pretty well to wait this long before needing some sparkle time.

Yeah, not too bad considering it's knocking on the door of a quarter of a million miles! 

[mat_the_cat]

This year has been incredibly busy until late summer, so I had no chance to work on this for a while. I must admit I've been putting it off since then as the area under the washer bottle is quite a tricky area to repair properly due to multiple seams all meeting at the same point. 

However today I couldn't put it off any longer, so got stuck into it. As it turned out the bulk of the repair was to the inner wing, and the bulkhead/scuttle area only needed a tiny patch.

On the previous post you can see the strut mount reinforcement plate, which I ground back and welded to what was left of the inner wing. I then cut a plate to repair the inner wing, and drilled it to plug weld to the reinforcement plate.

Welded that in together with a smaller patch at the front, then cut a strip for the wheel arch liner to locate on.

I've just given it the first coat of Zinga, which I do to give galvanic protection to all the welds before applying sealer. 

It was actually only around 10 hours work, so less than I'd feared! The A pillar is worse on this side, but at least it feels like I've broken the back of it now. Hopefully the next update will be before another 9 months is up...

[mat_the_cat]

It's all seam sealed now, and I've tried to replicate the slightly messy factory application. Then completely spoilt the effect by painting it in the wrong shade of red!

 Still, it can be easily painted over at some stage, and it looks a hell of a lot better than it did!

A pillar next...

[KitKat]

Looks good, nice work!! What gauge steel are you using there? 

[mat_the_cat]

To be honest I can't remember! Probably 1mm or 1.2mm I think. Most of the steel I have is already galvanised, so I have to grind it back on the edges for a better weld.

I've removed the driver's door now, to give access to the A pillar. Even removing the guard of the angry grinder, it's still difficult to remove all the rot.

Hopefully with the aid of snips I'll be able to get it all cut out, but I think it's going to need replacing in several sections.

[Fumbler]

Man that looks complicated. I've got a line of rust along the length where the door hinge is welded. Seeing those pictures makes me want to investigate that now.

[mat_the_cat]

You can see an old weld bead vertically between the hinge and A pillar. I did this back in 2004, when the factory weld developed a crack. Photos (early digital camera!) from the nearside.

The seam between the vertical A pillar and the sloped screen pillar is a common BX rust spot - what I think I'll do is make up the sloping part first and close in that section. Then make up the vertical piece to join it. Welding it in will be the easy part!

It's interesting from the previous post how incomplete the cavity wax spraying is. I can't remember how I applied it (I recall it was a bit of a rush before the 2004 NEC Classic Car Show!) but I'd have hoped for better coverage.

[Fumbler]

Hmm... that looks suspiciously like what's starting to happen on mine! Wire brush time I think.

[mat_the_cat]

It feels like I've finally got some momentum behind me on this job, possibly because I can see the end of it! I've trimmed away all the rusted edges, and cut a patch to fit.

It would have been easier if I'd cut the hinge away for access, but I didn't want to lose that datum. The shape isn't right at this stage but so long as the size is ok, it can be formed to the final shape as it's being tacked.

Here it is after a few tack welds, and a start on joining them all up.

The tacks are a bit blobby as the current wasn't high enough, but I was doing it blind whilst holding in place, so didn't want to risk burning through. Head torch has gone flat now so calling it a night for now - hopefully will finish tomorrow.

[mat_the_cat]

The main section was duly welded into position, and a small triangular piece added behind the hinge.

Then a larger piece to extend the lower part of the A pillar to meet the screen pillar.

I've managed to flap wheel back all apart from the horizontal seam, which was visible originally anyway, so I'm not too concerned. Once seam sealed then it'll all blend in reasonably well.

Finally protected, and I can put the welder away!

[mat_the_cat]

With the welding all done, seam sealed and coated in Bilt Hamber UB, I could refit the wings and wheel arch liners. For the first time in over a year it was ready to go back on its wheels. 

I've since removed the supports, and taken it for a quick spin in the forest. It started perfectly as always, but the exhaust sounds like it's contacting the body somewhere, so need to get back underneath it at some point.  

[mat_the_cat]

It'd be nice to get this on the road this year, if I can justify it to myself! I've had a bit of a tinker with it today, and wired in a charging socket so I can keep the battery topped up more easily.

The LEDs flash depending on battery voltage, so you can see at a glance whether to plug in the charger.  Fits neatly in place of one of the blanking plates too!

The AC has been non-functional since 2017, so given that it's good practice to use the system regularly to keep seals lubricated, I wasn't holding out much hope of it having any gas left. I had a hunch it might have been an electrical problem which stopped it working in the first place, and sure enough, the switch had failed.

It's actually a 10 kohm potentiometer, which allows you to vary the compressor cycle time depending on how cold you want it. Quite unusual, especially for the era.

As a temporary test I shorted out the two wires (which would give 100% compressor engagement) and to my amazement the revs dipped!

Difficult to tell whether it's blowing as cold as it used to in this weather, but the return pipe to the condenser was definitely getting hot, so it's certainly functioning. Result!

Sadly my HRW switch has disintegrated, as has my spare so I'm on the lookout for a replacement.

[mat_the_cat]

The last time the switch failed was around 2009, and back then I tried to match up the potentiometer that Citroen used. I couldn't find anything suitable then, so ended up fitting a used replacement. Now this in turn had failed, and BXs fitted with AC are getting a bit thin on the ground as a spares source!

So I've been scouring the RS website, but with no luck. The closest one I could find was a logarithmic rather than linear type, although was close enough dimensionally. Eventually I found a reasonable match on Mouser, which duly arrived. 

It's not the same in terms of mounting, but I temporarily connected it up and it works as it should.

The easiest way I could think to mount it was simply to cut away part of the old slider, which I filled with epoxy to keep it all rigid. Then I just ran a couple of wires to the original PCB so it's plug and play with the car's loom.

A couple of dabs of hot melt glue secured it in place firmly enough, so it's job done and ready to slot back in the car!

The recirculation flaps have also stopped working, and I'm suspecting the switch again seeing as both flaps don't move. I'll try some contact cleaner first as that's worked in the past.

[mat_the_cat]

Chevronics still stock new switches, but £78! I was about to pull the trigger, but a friend had a number of spares and sent me a very good condition HRW switch.

That was quickly fitted, as was the repaired AC control. Time to fire it up and test!

I may be tempting fate, but this always fires instantly, whatever the weather and no matter how long it's been standing. You can detect the revs dropping as the compressor kicks in, so I'm happy that's working OK. 

I could then mount the slider, and reinstall the front panel.

The recirculation switch is working fine after exercising it a few times, so a nice easy fix!

[mat_the_cat]

I've done absolutely nothing to this in the interim, other than take it for a quick drive every now and again to keep things from seizing. Until now that is. I'm due to collect my Stellar gearbox from a friend next weekend, which unfortunately will mean I'll have to miss part of Shitefest. But he is attending the Citroen National rally, where they are celebrating 40 years of the BX. So I thought it is only right to turn up in one, if at all possible!

I've fitted a replacement battery and changed the cambelt today; still to do is a service, replace the engine mount, hydraulic pump belt, exhaust rubbers, check and probably free off the rear brakes, and weld a couple of patches on the rear of the sills.

MOT is booked for Friday, so no chance if it doesn't pass first time!

[mat_the_cat]

Bugger. Time has not been kind to the rubber components.

The underneath is even worse.

I've managed to track down a replacement though, as well as the engine mount which has also seen better days!

 

[Talbot]

When the rubber of the engine mounting breaks down like that, do not jump a humpback bridge and land rather heavily.  The weight of the engine will punch the top part of the mount straight through the rubber and end up with metal-to-metal contact.  The fix for which is of course to jack up the engine and shove 4 layers of rubber matting in the gap.

I would say "ask me how I know", but I've a feeling that's fairly obvious.

[mat_the_cat]

To my surprise the bits from Chevronics arrived today.

Everything under the bonnet now sorted

A quick check of the lights showed all working, except that the indicators turn on the hazard lights. Suspect the hazard switch, as this is where the circuits are linked.

But my attention is now taken up by this.

It doesnt seem disastrous at the moment, as it seems to be confined to the lip of the sill in the wheelarch. But it's always worse than it first looks!

[mat_the_cat]

Had a real low moment yesterday, as although the rust wasn't really any worse than expected, my welder started playing up. It just wouldn't stop spewing out wire when I released the trigger. I took the gun apart and disconnected the trigger switch - still the same. I noticed that the gas was still flowing, so suspected a stuck relay or something worse.

It was at this point I noticed a rear caliper was leaking quite badly, and hopes of using it this weekend started to fade. Especially as I have a fault with the hazard switch, so all indicators light up regardless of stalk position. I called it a day in the early hours, and went to bed.

Today I managed to weld up the hole by using the on/off switch on the back of the welder as a trigger. Not helped by my mask also failing - it was fine before striking the arc, but as soon as I started it went completely black regardless of how I adjusted the dimming. Definitely not my best work, and I deliberately didn't take a photo before taking a flap disc to it!

Realistically it will need redoing again in the next few years, as the inner sill has started to rust too, but it's a half reasonable job. 

I've ordered a rebuild kit for the caliper, and a friend has come to the rescue again with the hazard switch. I'm still going to take it for a test Friday, but with the knowledge it will fail on at least those two points. But I'll get a job list anyway...

[mat_the_cat]

Caliper rebuild kit arrived today, and it's a job I've never had to do on a BX  before. It was one of those rare occasions where a job goes better than expected!

The caliper to suspension arm securing bolts also act to hold the two halves of the caliper together, so it was easily split.

Old seals prised out  and new ones ready to go back in. Noting the slight difference in seal design - the twin lipped seal is the outer dust seal.

I think I'm right in saying that the braking system is the only part of a BX's hydraulic system where a small amount of seal leakage is *not* designed in - the suspension and steering all have a return line.

All back together (apart from the duat shield), with new pads I had in stock. The old ones were so LHM soaked I didn't rate my chances of cleaning them.

One big difference with a LHM based system compared to brake fluid, is that nothing exposed to the fluid rusts. Everything is pristine once cleaned up! There are some aspects of Citroën design that I really appreciate, and this is one of them. (There are plenty that I dislike, but glossing over that for now...)

I had a spin of the wheel, and the bearing was very rough. Sure enough, taking it for a drive revealed that either a Stuka dive bomber was attacking, or the bearing was not long for this world.

Aside from that though, nothing seemed unduly amiss. Things like that are to be expected after sitting idle for several years. And it was nice to drive again - plenty of mid-range torque which is slightly lacking in the standard smaller capacity turbo diesel BX. Ride still felt smooth, and brakes as sharp as ever. Let's see what the MOT brings tomorrow...

[mat_the_cat]

This is a new, unwanted record - I've never got 3 dangerous fails before!

I'm glad the tyre valve was spotted, and I knew at least one bearing had failed. The caliper 'fail' is nothing more than me not cleaning off the LHM sufficiently, so not a big deal. The price of a new bearing though, is eye-watering!

https://www.chevronics.co.uk/product/wheel-bearing-rear-bx/

[N Dentressangle]

Bearings schmerings 😉

[mat_the_cat]

I've yet to strip it down and find out for myself, but my understanding is that the races are machined directly into the hub! I've checked the SKF number you  can make out in photos, and that too corresponds with the whole hub. This means that the hubs are different depending on whether ABS or not, and most I can find listed are the non-ABS versions.

There are plenty of bare bearings listed which turn out to be the same as the front bearings. This seems to be a widespread error in the aftermarket parts listing, as the only BX sharing the same bearings front and rear is the 4x4.

I've managed to find some suitable  bearings for a more reasonable price by searching for other vehicles which use the same rear hubs, so just waiting for them to arrive. I'll be interested to see the arrangement, as I can understand the logic behind a one-piece bearing and hub (better support of the bearing surface) but wondering how it's made. Possibly induction hardened, as you can control the hardened depth with the frequency.

[mat_the_cat]

It's been a bit of a struggle this week, as I think I came down with Covid after Shitefest. I've tried to grin and bear it as much as possible, but not much fun.

The steering rack gaiter was the easy side  so changed in a matter of minutes.

The rear wheel bearings had completely dried out and subsequently corroded.

Looking at the new ones I bought  the SKF branded one was machined into the hub, as you can see the localised heat treatment.

But the Motaquip side had a separate race pressed in, so it looks like it's dependant on the type you have as to whether you can replace just the bearing.

I'd ordered a 41mm socket last Friday for the hub nut, on a 2 day tracked service. I'd booked it in for an MOT today, so when it hadn't arrived yesterday I was getting worried! Nowhere locally had one in stock (although i had a nice chat with the BX fan owner of a newly opened motor factors, who offered to lend me his personal one the following day!) I tried the tool hire place, and although they don't hire out socket sets they offered to lend me the one from their workshop with no charge. (It was duly returned with a few beers, and I actually felt happier after the whole episode than I would have done had the original purchase arrived in time!)

It was slightly tricky to remove all of the old bearing, but thinning the inner race with an angle grinder allowed me to crack it with a chisel. New one back in place and torqued up.

The exhaust turned out to be an unseen crack on the top of the front section, but fortunately I had a spare, along with a manifold to downpipe 'brillo pad' seal.

It took ages to remove this, although not quite as long as it took to replace the securing bolts! Access is very tight between bulkhead and engine, and frustrations were high. All that was left to do was the indicators, which I had put down to the hazard switch as that's the only place where both sides are linked.

I had a feeling this package contained the replacement switch...

...but when I fitted it the problem remained. It took a lot of head scratching but eventually I found the cause. Any guesses?

[juular]

17 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

I think I came down with Covid after Shitefest

Yeah I got a positive test myself on Wednesday. I think quite a few of us are under the weather!

[High Jetter]

53 minutes ago, juular said:

Yeah I got a positive test myself on Wednesday. I think quite a few of us are under the weather!

Yer're not selling it for next year