Rover 75 advice.

[Jim Bell]

I know there's a lot of Rover 75 owners and former owners stalking these hallowed halls, so I thought it wise to draw a bucket from the well of knowledge before looking at this tomorrow.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121951792032&alt=web

 

Other than general common sense checks, is there anything else I should be scrutinising?

 

Common faults, grot hot spots etc?

 

 

Meny tanks gentlemen.

[cort16]

They all suffer clutch slave woes that's not particularly easy or cheap to fix. Make sure it doesn't drag or lose pressure with your foot on the pedal .

Also make sure your tartan rug and box of tissues fit on the parcel shelf.

[gadgetgricey]

Clutch issues as above as expensive to fix.

Boot is nice and dry as have a habit of letting water in through rear lenses.

Handbrake works well, but there is a mod that can be done to fix this.

 

Bit more involved this one, and not really possible to do on the test drive, but check the drain hole below the ECU is clear.

Passenger side, windscreen scuttle panel off, check that the ECU is not sitting in a bath of water.

Drain hole gets bnged with leaves etc, and creates a lovely water bath for the ECU to sit in.

 

Finally check out the R75 forum, quite a few tips and fixes on there that not remembered.

 

Looks very nice though.

[loserone]

My advice:

 

• Buy a good one
• Fix all the things
• Enjoy it for 38 days or so
• Sell it to me

[Jim Bell]

Cheers all. Seller reckons clutch and slave have been done recently but I'll see how it feels.

[Cavcraft]

The clutch must be the big thing and as you say it's been done, assume you have to replace DMF at same time? Anyhow, it sounds like good news for whoever wins it from you next Saturday!

[Ghosty]

Is that dash screen standard?

 

Common faults include not being Primrose Yellow.

[Roverageous]

My thread has arrived!

 

Good morning.

 

I'm just going to run through everything that comes off the top of my head here, so bear with.

 

Suspension:

Top mounts and droplinks are usual culprits for funny noises. They do eat droplinks for fun and it can sound quite dire - thankfully cheap and easy to replace but don't buy ebay specials unless you want them to last a fortnight. Turn the wheel lock to lock and if there's a 'clonking' around the middle then the top mounts are tired - again cheap and easy. This car looks to have had a lot of suspension work done for the past couple of MOTs with rear arms, front arms, cracked springs - which are the usual culprits. Looks like it's been maintained decently judging by the MOT history so that's a good sign. Look for uneven tyre wear - most places don't know how to track these up properly and cack it up. You need hunter alignment on all four wheels which is a bit costly but well worth it.

 

Looks like the brake pipes have been done for a previous MOT which are a grotspot so that's good. Again looks like it's had handbrake adjustments which is also good - but don't expect miracles. Even a handbrake in good fettle isn't brilliant on these.

 

Grottyness:

Will be worth checking rear jacking points as these are getting grotty on a lot of 75s now. Although they will remain solid for a good long time, if a little unsightly. And actual sill rust would imply previous repair. Check that drain holes haven't lost their rubber bungs as that will help keep moisture out of the sills. Check spare wheel well for pondage. They all leak at some point into the boot (rear screen clips, chrome trim clips or rear light seals) silicone sealant will sort any of those out but potential bargaining point.

 

Clutches:

Do check the clutch carefully, especially overly light or really heavy ones. It's the hydraulics that are a bit crap on these, usually the slave cyliner which is plastic and located within the bell housing. Good sign that previous owner says it's been done - but it might go again. Some items (especially Luk) don't tend to last terribly long. There is a mobile chappy who will travel anywhere in the UK to do a clutch on these and he charges about £500 which is as cheap as you'll get. 

 

Engine:

Good strong BMW M47r engine. Lots with high (300k+) mileages around. Chain driven and no stretching issues. No pissflaps or DPFs. In standard tune it'll be 116hp, which is pedestrian at best in one of these. For £notalot thatcan be sorted to 131hp or 160hp which really livens the whole car up and well worth doing if it's a keeper IMO. Occasional injector issues here and there, but I've never had a problem and my last one had 280,000 miles on. They run better if they're worked hard. Don't be tempted to use 2 stroke oil as a fuel additive - it will make it run quieter but bork your injectors. If it smokes from the exhaust there is a breather filter which gets neglected at service time-cheap and easy to change.

 

Should start from cold on the button (just like a warm start) without the needs for glowplugs, even at freezing temps.

 

Plenums and ECUs:

Plenums are the chambers directly next to the scuttle panel. They have drain holes which like to get blocked with leaves and dirt, thus submerging the ECUs. Biggest problem on a diesel as the ECUs are not weather-proof! If you can do check that they're dry and the ECU isn't sitting in a puddle. Random warning lights can be indicative of a submerged ECU (or a dying battery). 

 

Engine / Aircon fans:

With the engine on, press the 'auto' button on the climate control then get outside of the car. The front fan should spin up and sound like an aircraft taking off - you can't miss it. If it doesn't then your engine fans are borked. Run the climate on 'econ' or you'll get whale noises and knacker your aircon compressor (aircon does usually work on these - I've not had any that didn't!). Diesel engines don't usually get anywhere near overheating. Highest temp I've seen on mine was 92'c and that was over an hour in traffic - if anything it'll run cold. But probably a good idea to get the engine fans sorted if a keeper. 

 

Thermostat:

These do stick open and cause the car to run cool. They're a pain of a job in a 75 due to engine orientation, so not worth replacing. There's a nice little mod you can do which involves about 30 mins of your time and a Renault 4 thermostat. Just slide it into the top coolant hose, reattach, top up coolant and hey presto - the car will run at the right temperature. Dead easy - even I can do it.

 

Engine mounts:

Engine stablisers can harden up and the rubber can crack leading to obvious symptoms. Easy job to replace (like, 30 mins and a £20 part). Makes the world of difference. If you're getting vibration through the floor, it's the bottom engine mount. If you're feeling it through the steering wheel likely culprit is the top hydromount. Again not a horrendous job.

 

ABS:

ABS can kick in just as you're coming to a stop. This usually means a wheel bearing is on its way out - you've got to replace the hub. Not too expensive though, and it could just be an ABS sensor. Or live with it.

 

Other odds and sods:

Buttons on the keys tend to wear through - can get pretend chinese 'valeo' ones off ebay. Easy to swap electrical gubbins across including blade so no blade cutting required. Done it on all of mine and well worth it. Door motors can get lazy or fail- flddly to sort out. Front window rubbers attract grit then scratch the window when you roll it up or down - i clean mine with cotton buds on a weekly basis. Wiper blades tend to be noisy. Door pins can rattle (but you can fix that with a McDonalds straw.

 

Aside from that just the usual stuff. Should go straight, brake straight etc...

[TRW]

They all suffer clutch slave woes that's not particularly easy or cheap to fix. Make sure it doesn't drag or lose pressure with your foot on the pedal .

Also make sure your tartan rug, werthers, piss bag, saga brochure and box of tissues are all to hand

 

Just for clarification.

 

Not sure how clued up you are, but;

 

Handbrakes are fucking shit. The compensator is made out of a metal like plastic and stretches over time, there is a well known fix online.

 

Springs snap, just for fun. The rears can be changed without dropping the lower arm but it can be tricky needing a long power bar.

 

Rear brake pipes go. They run over the top of the tank and whilst they can be changed with tank in situ, it can be fiddly (even if you have slim hands like me)

 

Midlands cars are better built than Oxford cars. Black sills = Oxford. Painted sills = Longbridge.

 

If its a TOTL Connoisseur the information display can play up with missing pixels (think SAAB SID unit). There is a company who does exchange units AFAIK.

 

Buy a 620 SDI, much easier. Unless you are a masochist.

 

Oh wait, this is Autoshite.

[cort16]

As long as it lasts up to 38 days it doesn't matter

[DeeJay]

Don't buy that one.

The collection thread would be over before breakfast. buy this instead for our extended enjoyment.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-CDTI-SE-Contemporary-tourer-/191844749022?hash=item2caad68ede:g:xZoAAOSw8RJXB-cG

[Jim Bell]

Thanks for all the great info gents.

[Roverageous]

Fuel pumps! I forgot fuel pumps!

 

Basically there are three. An in tank pump, and under bonnet pump and supposedly another one. In tank pumps are known to fail if you regularly drive it on fumes. If this has gone you'll know because it'll cut out if you let the fuel drop below the 1/4 mark on the gauge. It'll run ok if you keep it topped up though. Quite costly to replace I think - can't quite remember as I've not had one fail.

 

I  just keep mine over half a tank at all times as an insurance.

 

Basic advice here though is to buy it. They're wonderful motors and rather different to anything else in that sector. Just buy it. It'll be fine.

[oldcars]

Think most has been said. Boot leaks, make sure it gets up to temp as the stats can fail open, boot leaks, clutch, boot leaks, and the fuel pump. Mine has the pump issue, i just fill it up before if gets to 1/4 tank. Also it needs a smiley rear plate

[sierraman]

The clutch is more a problem on the diesels.

[dugong]

Take it to the Trafford Centre for that extra chintzy 'flag of our fathers' experience. 

[taxi paul]

Can't add to the advice , all good. My only thing would be to check for a drivers side cup holder. If it has one remove it and sell it for £50.00 on ebay. Pull the centre rear armrest down and open the little box . If there is a Rover pen and notepad in there then the world is your oyster.

[purplebargeken]

Don't buy a blue one. 

 

Sorry................

 

They is nce. Make sure you fit it though, cos you is tall.