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'93 Mondy thread - MOT pass


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Posted

The janitor at my high school had an M reg saloon, it was yellow and I think an Si and had the "Mondeo" script in black along the sides, lower half of both doors, was cool as fuck!

 

I also remember a K plate Ghia saloon in dark blue on a VW dealer forecourt for £9500, I begged and pleaded with my dad to trade his Maestro in for it, he ended up telling me he was buying a Ford anyway, I got all excited until he turned up one day in an H plate Orion. Gutted!

 

Speaking of early ones, Id go the opposite way and have a late one, would love this:

 

27084257144_4a810f3f2d_o.jpg1997 Ford Mondeo 1.8 GLX by Alan Gold, on Flickr

Posted

Boshed a new coil on the GLX today, from the looks of it expect the one on there is original! Found the new one for £11 on the bay, hope it's decent enough.

 

Also as I transferred the leads cracked a couple of bits of plastic, so common sense says they need changing too.

 

Triggers broom innit!

 

My plan is to all the jobs I can within my expertise*,and then hand a parcel of parts to someone who is prepared to do the water pump and cambelt at the roadside while it's still empty of water. I haven't told my usual chap yet...

 

A bit more work needed before that stage though...

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

comparing the replacement expansion tank with the original, shows it was worth it!post-20084-0-57791600-1504443829_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

Rear brake rebuild beckoning on mine. Thought I'd investigate the noisy back brake, the shoes are down to the linings on the NSR and both cylinders are leaking. Priced up some Pagid Shoes and Pair of cylinders for under £50 so I'll crack on with that before the MOT in October. 

 

It looks like the NSR cylinder has been sticking and buggered up the shoes. FFS. Not sure whats worse, leaking cylinders and drums on a Mk2 or seized calipers on a Mk3. Fortunately the unions aren't seized on the backs of the cylinders. 

Posted

The GLX still remains stranded, but jobs continue on it. Mk1's are known for breaking their flimsy air vents. Stu's mate had a non broken used one by some miracle.

 

As the GLX has two broken vents, and the base has one, the GLX got the nod for the replacement.

 

It's an easy* 5 screw job plus clock and heated screen switch need levering out. All done though, I hope.

 

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  • Like 7
Posted

Looking at your mk1 GLX through the windscreen while working on your other mk1 GLX. Class.

  • Like 2
Posted

I remember the screw on the left of the panel was a BASTARD to put back in. Some blu-tack helped immensely with this.

 

On the subject of Mk1's, check out this honey! M-plate 1.8 LX Auto. Although the owner thinks its best to be chopped in for the Crappage Scheme...

 

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201709038922494?radius=1500&year-to=1995&model=MONDEO&advertising-location=at_cars&make=FORD&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&postcode=sw1a1aa&sort=sponsored&page=1

  • Like 3
Posted

Managed to get some shoes and new wheel cylinders for mine for £40 for some Pagid ones. Surprisingly, yet again was cheapest through trade at Halfords.

 

Suffering serious CBA at the moment though, so I've told them at the garage to stick them on while it's having the test, just haven't got time.

Posted

Remember my old garages of Herne Bay thread? Well, the base visited one today. Chapel autos where the owner runs a 61 Impala must be ok right? Mick is 77 years old and still working.

 

I had the parts of course, so got the guy to do ARB bushes, track rod ends and drop links.

 

He did it properly and dropped the subframe to get at the bush bolts. Also swapped the tyres over and got it to toe in a bit more.

 

The front end no longer feels like a marshmallow. It's quite transformed from a short drive.

 

He also advised me to get the wheels sandblasted and painted as they are getting pretty ropey.

 

I'll give it a work run up to Chatham on Thursday to give it a proper test.

 

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  • Like 7
Posted

I'd just buy 4 steelies from the scrapyard, be cheaper than sandblasting them. Haven't you got hubcaps?

 

4 new steelies surely wouldnt be that expensive either, (if Ford still do them) because a car this mint and original and looked after with a good history and the painstaking effort egg has gone to with it so far, another set of rusty steelies out a breakers wouldnt be good enough for it.

 

Fine for anything else but not something as mint and original as this seems to be. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Set of new steel wheels should be about £120.  I reckon you've a very good chance of getting some from Ford.

Posted

4 new steelies surely wouldnt be that expensive either, (if Ford still do them) because a car this mint and original and looked after with a good history and the painstaking effort egg has gone to with it so far, another set of rusty steelies out a breakers wouldnt be good enough for it.

 

Fine for anything else but not something as mint and original as this seems to be.

Can't really see the point in putting some new steel wheels on then fitting some hubcaps over the top. You could get some steels for next to nothing from the breakers and paint them Matt black if it bothered you that much.

 

£120 on some new Steels then another £40 to swap the tyres over, then fit some hubcaps, sounds like a waste of money. They'll also be rusty again in about 6 month.

Posted

I'll come back to the wheel debate later.

 

I drained the rest of the water out of the GLX today, and cocked up the petcock.

 

Orangeade anyone?

 

New heater resistor also added.

 

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  • Like 3
Posted

Kurusting before winter found this bleb on the base. I'm resigned to getting the sills replaced in a couple of years. This has been sanded back and rust converter added. Maybe time for some POR15?

 

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Posted

Not guaranteed, I'd grind it back to clean metal then spray with anti corrosion primer then top coat, then thick coat of Waxoyl.

 

You are in for sill replacement with these when the sill has gone at the end. Usually by this point the inner sill has gone at the base as well.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Bumper project part 1.

 

Bumper removed, screw snapped off, plastic snapped and the actual broken bits still in place. Tired of working in the road!

 

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Posted

Just spent almost 2 hours removing the rest of the broken bumper, car had to be jacked up, Wheel liners part removed and now it's done!

 

You can see why gaffer tape wins out...

 

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Posted

There's a new aftermarket bumper in Northampton for a mk1 on ebay. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to glue the original one together effectively. I have a quote for £150 to paint.

 

Bumper is 99p at the mo! Can anyone help collect and shift please if I win it?

 

Will also get some Shiply quotes.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202077062293

 

 

Cheers.

Posted

I'm in Northampton. Depending on whereabouts there's potential for me to be able to collect/store it at home, and if another shiter is heading that way they can swing past they can pick it up enroute (I'm only a few minutes from junctions 15, 15a and 16 of the M1).

 

I'm not sure how Shiply works but I can probably make myself available at home with enough notice if a courier were to pick it up.

 

I'm not heading that way myself though.

Posted

Where are you egg? Tapatalk doesn't show locations... I pass Northampton frequently

Posted

Herne Bay.

 

Work trips often take me in Dartford/Gravesend/Chatham/Sittingbourne direction.

Posted

Was the old bumper cracked?

Bumper itself ok apart from both sides where it screws behind the wheel well, both broken. Also, one mounting screw snapped that will need drilling out and replacing somehow. Also, it's really brittle.

Posted

Can anyone help with this please? Thanks.

 

I've got the Shiply quotes on the boil.

 

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