egg Posted May 27, 2020 Author Posted May 27, 2020 Pollen filter has only been changed once in my ownership...so wiper arms off bonnet rubber strip and screws Grille panels off Bit mucky. so cleaned all this up a bit, lubed the wiper mechanism and applied a bit of vactan in a couple of spots. New and old filter, old one wasn't bad, just a bit crispy really after 4 years or so... Seal between filter housing and bulkhead still seems ok (can leak) so left alone, but did add a blob of silicone on one possible area I spotted. You can see the blower motor though there. All done. jumpingjehovahs, RobT, GrumpiusMaximus and 5 others 8
egg Posted May 28, 2020 Author Posted May 28, 2020 Started sanding down the rust on this wheel today (original to the car). I changed it for a newer one a couple of years ago. Later in the year new rear tyres are on the list (they are dated 2008 and starting to crack on the sidewalls, they've done only 13,000 miles in that time). If I get this prepped and painted can go back on the car with the new tyres. How far do you go before reaching for the rust converter!? GrumpiusMaximus and stuboy 2
RobT Posted May 28, 2020 Posted May 28, 2020 Just a quick wipe down with turps or something and I'd say that's Vactan ready. egg 1
egg Posted May 28, 2020 Author Posted May 28, 2020 7 minutes ago, RobT said: Just a quick wipe down with turps or something and I'd say that's Vactan ready. I've just done another half hour on it, will have a look in the morning, then probably start the process. What I'm trying to do is make it easier to get the wheel trim on and off once done - I have a spare GLX one to hand to see how it is going.
sierraman Posted May 29, 2020 Posted May 29, 2020 You’ll probably want some high build primer otherwise you’ll see the pits. egg 1
egg Posted May 29, 2020 Author Posted May 29, 2020 34 minutes ago, sierraman said: You’ll probably want some high build primer otherwise you’ll see the pits. Good idea, it will be behind a wheel trim, but still, worth a go. I'll get some, as none in stock.
egg Posted May 29, 2020 Author Posted May 29, 2020 Vactan now applied...I'll put some on the back this evening LightBulbFun and GrumpiusMaximus 2
jonathan_dyane Posted May 29, 2020 Posted May 29, 2020 Lidl metal paint available in store from Sunday! egg 1
sierraman Posted May 29, 2020 Posted May 29, 2020 That’s gloss though? Satin is what it would have had?
stuboy Posted May 29, 2020 Posted May 29, 2020 Could always go down the steel wheel look... Dick Cheeseburger and Yoss 2
egg Posted May 29, 2020 Author Posted May 29, 2020 I'll just use that Rustoleum high-temperature black that I used on the Mazda battery clamp - as I have plenty of that. If it looks crap, I'll stick with the wheels already on the car! LightBulbFun 1
egg Posted June 2, 2020 Author Posted June 2, 2020 Something I should have done ages ago, pulled out the non functioning head unit Put the new one in, which I got from an N reg breaker. Same head unit (2006). Coded it...and Yay! Let's see how long it lasts. Tenmil Socket, greengartside, RobT and 9 others 12
egg Posted June 2, 2020 Author Posted June 2, 2020 Oh, forgot the money shot! GrumpiusMaximus, LightBulbFun, KWhite and 6 others 9
egg Posted June 3, 2020 Author Posted June 3, 2020 After reading Phil's Princess thread this morning - this feels cutting edge. I have a Gunsons 4127 code reader bought used on eBay by cheque(!) appropriately enough last year. You have to unscrew it and put a 9v battery in. Luckily, there wasn't an old one festering away After that you need the right adaptor for a Ford, that is in the kit Then removing a cover on the car you can connect... I have only done ignition off checks so far....when you switch on the reader, the fan briefly whirrs, like it does with an OBD2 system. And I got the following result 111 111 1 111 111 This is the all clear sign. The 1 in the middle differentiates between current codes and historic codes in the Keep Alive Memory (KAM). Ignition on/engine running later... GrumpiusMaximus, BorniteIdentity and LightBulbFun 3
egg Posted June 3, 2020 Author Posted June 3, 2020 Fuck it the windscreen has cracked for no apparent reason, previously replaced by Autoglass Edit: I'm wondering it was something I did during pollen filter change - but the crack is not near any of the fasteners....but I still feel guilty. Could be a heat thing. crad, adw1977 and RobT 3
egg Posted June 3, 2020 Author Posted June 3, 2020 While I let that sink in (hopefully will be protected under lifetime guarantee) I did the engine running tests. Only two codes 521 and 538 which mean (a) power steering pressure switch was not activated during self-test and (b) operating error during self-test procedure - which in both cases suggest I need to 'repeat self-test procedure' Not sure why as the test seemed to proceed as expected - I had to turn the wheel, press and release the brake, engine speed goes up - you then depress and release the throttle completely and the codes come through. I also proceeded to the 'power balance test' where the engine cuts power to each cylinder in turn to test for errors - that definitely happened - I got a '9' code for that - which is the all clear
RobT Posted June 3, 2020 Posted June 3, 2020 31 minutes ago, egg said: Fuck it the windscreen has cracked And a fuck it from me too. Just what you don't need.
Eyersey1234 Posted June 3, 2020 Posted June 3, 2020 57 minutes ago, RobT said: And a fuck it from me too. Just what you don't need. And from me as well, it's fucking annoying when something like that happens for no reason
sierraman Posted June 3, 2020 Posted June 3, 2020 That screens cracked because when you’ve put the screws in on the plastic scuttle you’ve nipped them up too tight in the plastic plugs. Ask me how I know!
egg Posted June 3, 2020 Author Posted June 3, 2020 3 minutes ago, sierraman said: That screens cracked because when you’ve put the screws in on the plastic scuttle you’ve nipped them up too tight in the plastic plugs. Ask me how I know! I fear that may be the case. If so, pissed off with myself. Although it hasn't actually cracked where the bulkhead is under tension from the plug.
egg Posted June 3, 2020 Author Posted June 3, 2020 £75 paid and booked in for 18th June. Last replaced 21/6/17 - so it lasted 3 years. What I hate is how I fiddle around with pennies here and there to make all ends meet etc, and then potentially make an expensive cock-up like that. Only other thing in my defence, is I always felt this screen had a slight warp in it after fitting - evidence for this is that the driver's wiper blade tends to leave a trail sometimes as though it doesn't sit fully flush and also, there was a bit of distortion when looking at the passenger side of the window from the driver's window. Sounds like being wise after the event, but it's all true ,your honour. Anyway, what's done is done, and I'm off to cry like a girl at my misfortune. Well, just be a bit grumpy anyway...
sierraman Posted June 3, 2020 Posted June 3, 2020 Just make sure it’s done properly, I had one once that pissed water in afterwards.
egg Posted June 3, 2020 Author Posted June 3, 2020 2 minutes ago, sierraman said: Just make sure it’s done properly, I had one once that pissed water in afterwards. Yup, agree, it's a big area and can easily go wrong - especially now that the average fitter isn't doing 5 a week like they were a few years back, no doubt. I may not have the best skill-set - but over-tightening is something I don't usually get wrong, that's the kicker.
sierraman Posted June 3, 2020 Posted June 3, 2020 It’s not a mistake if you’ve learnt from it. RobT, loserone, BorniteIdentity and 4 others 5 2
egg Posted June 3, 2020 Author Posted June 3, 2020 Thanks for the support Anyway, I'm relatively pleased with the code reader today, not because I thought there were any pressing faults, but it does mean if something shows up, I might be able to work out what it is myself. I have various other connectors in the kit including Vauxhall, PSA, VAG, most Japanese makes. So happy to lend the kit to any shiter I come into socially distanced contact with.
RobT Posted June 3, 2020 Posted June 3, 2020 Yeah we've all been there, stuff happens that makes you want to slap yourself. Mind you, £75 for a new screen sounds a decent price.
egg Posted June 3, 2020 Author Posted June 3, 2020 Yup, standard windscreen excess on my (fully comp) policy.
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