Project 1994 Rover 414SLi - Fin.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

This! As a 1994 car, when it failed the cat test it should have been retested to the limits specified for an exact match in the "in-service emissions" book (I can't find one...) and then as pre-cat (1200ppm HC and 3.5% CO) which it would have passed easily.

 

Thought so. I took a mate's M reg 325i for an MOT last year - narrowly failed the 'proper' test so just did a BET (basic emissions test) and it passed.

 

As the MOT computer is linked to DVLA, it realised an old Rover was actually taxed and insured and had a meltdown. They should have an MOT bay at Greggs for these.

[egg]

If you are really stuck - maybe shitters can crowdfund your welding bill....

[vulgalour]

Looks like its running just a very tiny bit rich, its only just over the line on the lambda. I say clean and gap the plugs, check/replace the air filter (unless you've done that recently) and give it a thrashing and I reckon it'll pass OK.

 

Got a pretty new filter in it but it has only been pottering for the past couple of weeks, haven't had chance to give it a blast down the motorway for a while.

[hairnet]

cheap honda fork snail

[vulgalour]

Well I can't drive anything at all right now so... yeah.  But if I need it I'll nick the Applause off you as a short term solution, it's a nice place to be.  If I feel able, Mike's going to drive me in so I can inspect the Rover properly and then drive me home again, it'll give me a better idea of what I need to do and even take some pictures.

[dieselassist]

I tested ma'assist's mk4 golf 1.4, not so long back, n the emissions reading were similar - I didn't have the time to Italian tune it properly (as much as I like to) - traffic was too heavey for it n was running late - like all mk4 1.4's, it burns a drop of oil - over here you can just book a '6 weeks time' full test, n keep driving, as you've booked the test....

 

....ive lurked, on n off on your thread here, n its looks like its worth 'sticking with', tho welding involves removing seats n trim - all time consuming; worth doin tho considering the effort you have put into the rest of the car....

[vulgalour]

It'll get done.  I'm too heavily invested in it and like it too much not to now.  I've never had the carpet or seats out so I am dreading what I'll find a little bit.  On the plus side, getting the seats and carpets out would allow me to get them all shampooed properly which is also very much needed.

[vulgalour]

Mike gave me a lift over to the unit and helped me get down on the floor to have a look at this rust.  I'm now recovering from all this excitement by sitting still and trying to breathe more easily.  I hate being ill, did I mention?

 

First impression is that I think the tester was a bit over zealous with his inspection of the damage, in places it looks like an implement has been jabbed quite hard into the metal which wasn't particularly necessary so I'm not pleased about that.  However, it is obvious there is a rust problem that needs resolving.  Yellow chalk is prescribing a massive area too, which hardly seems necessary, this looks like perforation to the lower outer sill to sill rail junction, quite a minor repair all told, and shouldn't result in requiring a whole sill replacement.  It runs from the trailing edge to about half way along the back door, everything forward of that appears solid but I will clean off the underseal and inspect to be certain when it comes to repairing this sill.

 

 

 

I want crack on with getting this sorted right now but I can't.  Just getting on the floor to take two photographs and getting back up again had me feeling incredibly unwell and was, in hindsight, probably a very bad idea for my phsyical wellbeing.  Good for my mental state, I don't need to worry about this now as it's well within my skillset and doesn't look like it's going to be a weldathon.

[stuboy]

is that all? sounded worse..

[oldcars]

Not to bad. Thats the same area my Shuma needs welding, getting a quote tomorrow for the work.

[Rocket88]

Autopanels 01977 559574 do sills

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Doesn't need a sill - a few bits of flat steel steer and 4 hours should see that right.

[twosmoke300]

Ask him to show you the rear subframe that that's within 30cm of . He would do well considering they don't have one

[vulgalour]

That was the thing that confused me most of all, twosmoke.  That rust you see there is the 'within X of Subframe' bollocks and I did point out to Mike when he told me that the Rover has no subframe just an assortment of components that bolt to the body.  I do wonder if he was just trying to find SOMETHING to fail it on given its age, I've had that before.

 

I have got a pair of new sills but I don't plan to use either, there's not enough damage to repair to warrant it right now.

[twosmoke300]

Suspension mounting prescribed area or possibly seat/ seat belt prescribed area would be more accurate

[egg]

Is it worth just taking it to a more 'sympathetic' tester? 

[twosmoke300]

Might be worth taking the yellow chalk off first

[Isaac Hunt]

Sure you will be able to fabricate and weld that ok. Guys counsel ref air filter, plugs and a good 'run through the rev range down the bypass get it nice and warm' should help and straight to the tester.

 

Might be worth a coolant temp sensor as folklore indicates these things are forever going tits up on Rover's. Having said that, I've replaced them in the past and it doesn't seem to make much difference. If I understand correctly a failed sensor means the ECU runs to a default setting which I understand can cause over fuelling. I've always thought it would be nice to try ''before and after" on a gastester to see the effect of a cts change.

 

As for the bulb, I got caught like that week. Checked all lights on Sunday, used car on Monday, laid it up tues and weds, took for test on thurs and headlamp bulb had failed, I reckon the fekker failed as the lights were put on to test. Soon sorted though

[vulgalour]

Been out of action since the 12th with a bronchial infection, really put brakes on everything for me until today when I was able to get over to the unit and start cleaning up that rust for the MoT.  Fiddly, and slow going because I'm still not 100%, but it only needs a good sized square patch on the outer sill and a small one on the inner sill to make this sound again.  No point pulling the entire sill off at this point as the rust hasn't crept very far and there's lots of good healthy steel to weld on to.

 

 

I left this with some weld through primer on because I was starting to get short of breath and had to call it quits.  I'm hoping I'm better enough tomorrow to get the patches and paint on to call this bit done.

 

The new problem is that the immobiliser won't disarm now.  I think the problem is related to the fob as it won't even operate the central locking, I just don't know exactly what's amiss with it.  Checked the battery, alternator, fuses, earth and all that stuff and everything checks out, it keeps bringing us back to a faulty fob.

[rrsix]

Is it one of these? 

 

You probably already know but if I have the battery off the car I have to press either button five times in a row to make it operate to immobilizer again. I think it's the same process for changing the battery in the fob..

[vulgalour]

I've never had to do that when changing the battery under the bonnet but this is the first time I can recall changing the battery in the fob (it is the same kind as pictured).  It's not something I've tried.  Does the same method work for programming a new fob to the car?

[rrsix]

Hmm i beiieve that's what i did for mine admittedly it's not technically a rover just a k-series with a tinkered with rover ecu and imobiliiser.

 

This site suggests a different technique

http://www.rover-400-series.co.uk/rover-keyfob-battery-replacement.php

 

I also read you may need to do a version that involves putting it in the drivers door lock but that for for a 25.

 

Edit: Or Unlock the car with the key and then press one button several* times.

 

Seems there are fair few versions of the re-syncing process.

[vulgalour]

Let's have the good news first which is that I repaired the rust that the car failed the MoT on.  Didn't take too long but it was pretty horrible as I couldn't get any of this at a comfortable height to work on and it looks pretty ugly as a result.  The key thing is that it's welded all the way around, there are no holes and there is no rust.  I even bothered to fold the sill rail lip to mimick factory so there's no sharp edge there too.  The inner sill patch was done from the outer sill side because I physically couldn't do it any other way.  I'd quite like never to have to do this job again.  The photographs make it look even worse than I think it is too.  Oh well, you only see this if you're underneath the car, it's impossible to see with the car on its wheels.

 

 

 

 

The bad news is that the key fob is definitely dead.  That means the car is currently immobilised and I can't remobilise it to take it for the MoT.  You can't resynch the fob because it is dead.  I have been unable to find a work around to bypass the immobiliser for certain and haven't the electrical nous to figure it out myself.  Quite annoyed about that really because it is now the only thing stopping it going for the retest.

 

Silver lining is that I get to bomb around in my brother's Applause in the meantime which is a very fun little car that I'm quite attached to already.

[barmatt]

have you got the EKA code?

[vulgalour]

Because I don't know what that is, I'm going to say no.

 

EDIT:  Googled it and now I know what it is but I'm still saying no.  I don't recall the card that should be in the wallet being present.

[barmatt]

Have a look through any documents you've got for it. It may be written down somewhere.

 

When you say the fob is dead do you mean you've replaced the battery and nothing is happening?

 

normally with those fobs you have to remove the old battery, press either button at least 10 times to make sure it is discharged fully, put the new battery in, open the door with the key and then press either fob button 5 times in a row to reactivate it.

[vulgalour]

no amount of button pressing or battery swapping is giving new life.  Also, something on the circuit board in the fob is leaking a treacle-like substance so I think a component has failed and that's why the fob is kaput.

[Craig the Princess]

I thought a car battery disconnection then reconnection with the ignition key in position II got round the immobiliser.

[barmatt]

no amount of button pressing or battery swapping is giving new life.  Also, something on the circuit board in the fob is leaking a treacle-like substance so I think a component has failed and that's why the fob is kaput.

 

Fair enough,  you either need to find the EKA code or find a friendly dealer who'll get you one for cheap.

[vulgalour]

There's an internet site offering the EKA code for £17ish.  Provide them with Vin #, reg and cash and they provide the EKA by reply.  Tomorrow I'll get a look in the wallet, if the code is there then we're sorted, if not I guess it's the £17 option.

 

@CtP:  I'll give that a go too, though I suspect nothing will happen.