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I'm bored, let's dismantle my kettle


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Posted

Anyone on here pulled a K series apart? I want to change my cam shaft seals (there are 4) along with what is known as the cam ladder gasket (which isn’t actually a gasket but is a flexible sealant, Unipart GGC108 if you’re interested).

 

Obvs, on the F with the motor mounted amidships, it’s awkward at best and would normally mean changing the cambelt while I was in there. But my belt was only done 3000 miles ago, so I don’t see why I can’t simply:-

 

1/ Time the engine

2/ release the cambelt tensioner

3/ remove the cambelt from the camshaft pulleys, leaving it on the crank pulley & waterpump

4/ remove the cam ladder & camshafts

5/ replace the camshaft seals

 

And then reassembly is the reverse of removal.

 

Or is there some terryfing event that I have vastly underestimated which is going to explode, resulting in the death of nuns, kittens AND orphans?

Posted

I recommend Mr Bollox and Mikeknight for this one, both are known K series fiddlers.

  • Like 3
Posted

If it has been leaking oil from the cam belt end then you should change the belt again as it would have oil contamination. You should be able to change the seals without taking the top off but it depends if it is leaking from the cam carrier as well. A bit of a fiddly job but not too bad once you take the engine cover out.

Posted

You are a fucking hero. 

 

Insane but a hero nonetheless. 

  • Like 4
Posted

Leave it alone - it ain't losing coolant.

 

You will be the first person ever to strip a K series because of an oil leak.

Posted

And there's me, thinking you were talking about an early 70s Suzuki!

 

Oh well.

  • Like 3
Posted

If it has been leaking oil from the cam belt end then you should change the belt again as it would have oil contamination. You should be able to change the seals without taking the top off but it depends if it is leaking from the cam carrier as well. A bit of a fiddly job but not too bad once you take the engine cover out.

 

very valid point. if it looks ok, I plan on keeping it, as I don't have a compressor to shift the crank pulley bolt. If the belt looks fucked, it's back off to the garage.

 

You are a fucking hero. 

 

Insane but a hero nonetheless. 

 

many thanks, sir. If I can get it oil-tightish, I'll be happy. It's running like a charm but the puddle of engine oil under it's arse is getting embarrassing, even for a backslider like me

 

K series oil seals are directional iirc

 

correct, they are. And I hope it's only the front ones that need changing as the VVC mechanism looks like a bit of a twat, quite frankly

Posted

If I end up dismantling the kettle in the kitchen tomorrow and my girlfriend shouts at me I'm telling her this thread made me do it

Posted

If it's a Russell Hobbs, I MIGHT be able to help you.....  :mrgreen:

Posted

if my Russell Hobbs was pissing 10/40 all over my drive, I wouldn't be seeking help on the interwebz mate :-)

  • Like 3
Posted

^ I dunno, did the oil seals on the Morphy Richards last week and now it boils up a treat.

Nothing better than a kettle that doesn't drip Castrol GTX into your Pot Noodle.

  • Like 3
Posted

If it does drip Castrol GTX into your Pot Noodle you should change the noodle again as it would have oil contamination...

  • Like 2
Posted

K series oil seals are directional iirc

 

Let it out, but won't let it back in?

  • Like 1
Posted

That's it , come to think of it , aren't oil seals on most of my cars like that

Posted

I did a how to on this on MGRover forum, it's very easy. It's easier than a front engine as you're not bent over double. The engines right in front of you.

Posted

Oil contamination could only improve the flavour of a pot noodle. 

Posted

I did a how to on this on MGRover forum, it's very easy. It's easier than a front engine as you're not bent over double. The engines right in front of you.

 

have you got a link mate? I've been searching and can't seem to find it

 

 

excellent, thank you. Interesting that is seems that fitting the cam ladder takes place BEFORE the camshaft seals go on? I would have thought that it was easier to fit the seals over the shaft and then "clamp" them using the cam ladder?

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