Talk to me about rustproofing...

[stripped fred]

I have had my wire brush on the MR2 today. Found a few flaky areas where it hasn't rusted through but if I leave it it will in time. I'm talking about a few areas on the floor under the carpet and the bottom seams on the sills. I realise that different areas need different approaches but I'd like to know what products people have had success with inside and outside the car. I usually use kurust and then black hammerite with some underseal on top if outside but it doesn't seem to last that long before the rust comes back. Any recommendations for what to use from fellow shiters?

[stripped fred]

http://www.rust.co.uk/3-treating-rust-the-rustbuster-way/t20/#

 

Think I'll give this a read.

[Bren]

Stuff from bilt hambler is very good

POR 15 from frost as well.

[stripped fred]

Do people on here rate waxoyl or am I better spending a bit more on bilt hamber products?

[Bren]

Waxoyl is cheap but needs frequent treatment - dinitrol is better but more expensive.

[mat_the_cat]

Does this help to make your mind up?

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?287293-Flooding-sills-and-chassis-to-stop-rust&p=3253116&viewfull=1#post3253116

[stripped fred]

Does this help to make your mind up?

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?287293-Flooding-sills-and-chassis-to-stop-rust&p=3253116&viewfull=1#post3253116

Thanks for that. I'll have a good read.

[Honey Badger]

We tested waxoil in the salt spray cabinets at work as part of a blind test for a new paint base, it's shit.

 

You would be better off spraying you car with Lemon curd as it has far superior adhesion to metal and all the dead ants it would attract would provide better protection.

 

Bilt Hambler all the way if it was my car, really good products

[jonathan_dyane]

Vactan rocks

[Taff]

As I am lazy/tight I use waxoil as none of my cars are keepers.

I used to work with a lad who slapped used engine oil on underneath, he was even tighter than me

[stripped fred]

I suppose any protection is better than none. Depends on the car and how much cash you have spare

[jonathan_dyane]

It's messy and carcinogenic but by far the best anti-rust protection I have ever used is used oil and grease. 

 

In 2006 I refurbished a 1970 Citroen Dyane which although remarkably solid was heavily surface rusted. I cut out the only perforating rust there was (on one of the sills) zinc primed and welded in about 4 inches of new sill. I then wire brushed the whole underside and coated it with a mixture of used engine oil and grease and tipped oil into the chassis. I gave the car about 5 years heavy everyday use in all weathers (one year I did 20000 miles) then I swapped it with my father for a Citroen GSA. He used it occasionally for a couple of years and since then (after the wipers broke of all things) it lived for time in a leaky lean to then outside under a sheet.

 

Last month I was talking to the father and he told me that he had had the thing running and been all over it to see what it needed to get back on the road. The only rust repair needed is another small area on a sill.

 

Saying all this I haven't done another car with it since then because the application is such a god awful job. My XM needs rust proofing this year and I need to do the girlfriends KA and I haven't decided whether I can be arsed to do the oil and grease...

[danthecapriman]

I've used waxoyl, it's ok if you keep it topped up every year or so. I've also used Dinitrol, this is pretty good stuff.

But the best by far I've found is Bilt Hamber, it's really good, their cavity wax is really runny too so soaked down through seams and panel joints easily. Just what you want! So far I've used it on all three of my old Fords and I never seem to have rust problems on treated areas.

I've got my yank to do this year and I'll be using Bilt Hamber stuff again. Should be fun on such a big car!

 

If doing a whole car, I usually clean back any rust or dirt first. Then jack up one end of the car. Leave it sat in the sun on a warm day and leave the wax in the warm too. This will thin it out and let it flow better.

Then start spraying it everywhere. Inside doors, sills, chassis legs, A pillar, B pillar everywhere! I take interior trims off for this for easier access.

Because the car is jacked at one end, once the wax is inside it will then run down hill giving an even better coating inside box sections etc. also try to spray the wax up the inside of panels as high as you can aswell as around the bottom edges. Pay more attention to any panel joins, seams etc and let the wax soak in.

Once all that is done I use the thick UB wax to coat all the floor pans, outside faces of chassis legs, inner wheel arches, wings etc.

It's worth using disposable gloves and overalls for this as it is filthy work! And put something on the ground under the car too as the wax soon starts dripping out from all sorts of places. Old newspapers or a big old tarpaulin, anything, especially important if you have a nice driveway! All the stuff that drips out I brush up with an old paintbrush and brush that on aswell.

[D Spares & Tyres]

Waste cooking oil is surprisingly sticky and rust repellant. Never actually sprayed it underneath but I`ve spilt it all over the place when filling up and one dried its perfect, much better than waxoyl

 

Hammerite is now pointless, JOTUN is what you need. Fantastic stuff, repels rust better than any other paint I`ve tried and gives a decent finish

 

What I`ve done for ages is spray a mix of diesel and old engine oil under a rusty car. Leave a day or so to soak in. Then mix a little diesel with some waxoyl and spray that on. This will seal it nicely.

[forddeliveryboy]

Used veg polymerises with contact with air, so forms a sticky skin. But, a nightmare if it comes to welding - it seems much more keen to start an inferno than dried out commercially available products. On exposed surfaces, there's little or no resistance to being perforated and there's also the potential for it to take up water in damp conditions. But as someone said above, anything is better than nothing. It's better than used sump oil and you're not going to develop some awful skin cancer from contact with it.

 

I use Tetroseal products, they're pretty good. You could use the most expensive stuff ever but if it's not applied correctly in the right mix then it's useless.

[hennabm]

I agree Hammerite is shite

 

I use POR15 paint. I painted a diff in it years ago and no more rust has ever broken through.

 

The paint doesn't like UV light so has to be painted over if using anywhere other than underside.

 

If you don't put clingfilm on the lid to tin after using it, you will never ever get the lid off again - I know I've done it.

[PiperCub]

Dinitrol/Rusterbuster stuff and Bilt Hamber. Have used the former on my GTi & my 5, good stuff, easy to apply with proper gun/probes and comes out top/near top in comparison tests (with BH).

 

Waxoyl is OK for non-keepers (my 406) but the strench is a bit much for most people and unlike the above, never really goes away if you use it in the door/panel inners.

[mercrocker]

Waxoyl needs a huge temperature increase to be any use which kind of knocks it on the head for most of the year. Another hit here for Bilt-Hamber. They have realised that really there needs to be two formulae of rust inhibitor - a tough coating for panels and a higher creep factor one for inside sections. They are much easier to use than Waxoyl - the last can of which had an "extension tube" of similar length and quality to the straw attached to Pound Shop drink cartons. Unless you live in the Kalahari you will find Waxoyl just comes out like cotton wool and doesn't really do anything except drip on your tyres. Standing it in a bucket of hot water doesn't help much, either.

[sierraman]

Preparation is key to whether Waxoyl will work. Slapping it over muck encrusted floors will not work. I've had good experience with it, but you need to set aside a weekend to do it right, as people have said you do need to top it up time to time. People often use it on an already rusting car which will just slow the grot down, you can't expect it to stop rust all together, nothing will do that.

 

I'd definitely give the Waxoyl kit a miss, I got one out of a skip once, it had never been used, still in the cellophane. It was useless... Its basically a nail in the end of some washer tube. Upon using the trigger, instead of 'spraying' it used to just fly out of the end in a spurt akin to when you shoot your load.

 

What I've always used to get a garden sprayer from Wilkos or whatever them let the wax down 30% with spirits after letting the wax sit in boiling water half hour

[PiperCub]

Standing the container in boiling water is the key with Waxoyl to thin it down enough - from past experience! (Never again).

 

For doing my keepers, I bought a proper gun and set of probes with ends that sprayed in all directions - ie: did what the crap Waxoyl setup never does! So you get decent proper converage inside box sections.

Including enough Dinitrol to d oone car, it cost about £100 (the Rustbuster stand at Beaulieu autojumble about 18 mths ago), alot of money, yes, but was worth every penny after stuggling for years with Waxoyl. Appreciate not everyone can run to this or owns/has access to a compressor.

[mrcitroen]

Big fan of the Bilt Hamber S50 & UB here. The big pressure cans are so much easier to use than the waxoyl pumpy uppy thing. A lot less messy. The BX is drenched in the stuff and the GS is Is in the process of getting the same.

[gordonbennet]

I used to be a waxoyl girl but now i'm in love with BH.

 

Best way to use waxoyl successfully is to tip the first batch straight over your head and the you've already got in the state you will be anyway and won;t get so annoyed.

 

BH sprays and cavity probes are brilliant, i did the Outback extensively last year and not one single blockage, will be doing the Landcruiser soon, it looks expensive at first but there is so little waste and the ease of use and finished job make it a no brainer.

 

Another plus is that the smell isn't unpleasant and will be gone within a couple of days unlike the weeks of stench a proper waxoyling means and your won't piss the Mrs off by standing cans of waxoyl and blocked applicators in her best big saucepans on her cooker (sexist) to try and get the shit to flow.

[Des]

The only preparation I've found to be of any use in the slightest is this.

 

 

There's a mere dribble left in that can. While this fuckload:

 

 

Bought with good intentions then sits in the shed unopened forever.

[stephen01]

As I am lazy/tight I use waxoil as none of my cars are keepers.

I used to work with a lad who slapped used engine oil on underneath, he was even tighter than me

 

My herald has been painted with used oil for years by the old chap that owned the car before me, the car is now 40+ years old and the floors have not been welded, not bad, especially for a British car..

[stripped fred]

Thanks for all the info fellow shiters. Notes have been made and I'll be off to look at the Bilt Hamber website soon with the intention of doing a proper rustproofing job on my MR2. I might use the waxoyl I already have (unopened) on the Astra's underside to delay the inevitable although that might get the BH treatment too if it's a keeper...

[tooSavvy]

I have been hatching a plan (for some time..)

 

It all came together today

 

1: buy this @ tesco £2.99

 

 

then source.....

 

 

... the sprayer has an O-ring in the pump handle so won't go past 2lb pressure - the £2 cycle pump is the same piston bore but has a conical pumping ring for proper tyre inflation

 

I have swapped the bits over and now can pump till the handle stops AND fire a stream of water about 15 foot.

 

A warm diesel/waxoyl sauce is my next ingredient and we will see how much goes onto the car vs ME.

 

 

Waxoyl do sell a VERY£££ pump... Ah, $hiteEm.. NaeFun, eh?

 

 

TS

[Bren]

I had the proper waxoyl pump.

 

Pushing blancmange up a chimney with a fishing rod would be easier than applying waxoyl with that piece of shit.

[pompei]

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 

 

WHS

 

Waxoyl is yesterday's technology.

[tooSavvy]

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 

 

WHS

 

Waxoyl is yesterday's technology.

Excellent then! My Savvy is brimful of that.....

 

TS

[Lukas]

A friend of mine uses old engine-oil for the chassis of his Pajeros. Never had any rust-issues. I use Seilfett, that´s grease they use for cable cars. Works well, but need re-doing once a year.