cort16 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Posted May 29, 2015 Sooo. I got a kink in the choke cable and it refuses to go down the liner. The Bakelite handle has a metal rod coming out the end that the cable is either cast or crimped onto. Looking on line it's like 50 quid for a choke cable. Say what? I ground away the metal at the end of the choke cable with my aldi power file and released the old cable.I got a bit giddy and removed a bit too much metal. image by cort16, on Flickr I went to the local bike shop and got a brake cable for 3 quid that's quite a bit longer but otherwise identical in width etc.I clamped it all up and got the bike cable into the recess left by the old cable. I wizzed around the cable with the file to clean it up and prepared to apply a dod of mig. image by cort16, on Flickr I seem to be suffering angels share issues with my mig gas as I had plenty a few weeks ago and with all the valves shut I've now just got a little squeek. Enough to see if it'll work.. I got it all lined up and.. fucksticks it sliced the cable at the long end and migged the little short bit onto the handle perfectly!. Although the cable is 2mm thick I guess it's construction of lots of little wires can't stand up to the 1.21 migawats the welders putting through it? I recon it might work if I can turn the mig down a bit but as my mig is a a bit shite it only has power levels 1-2 and low and high. I was on 1-low. Dunno what to do now as my mig's not up to it and I've ran out of gas. image by cort16, on Flickr image by cort16, on Flickr In bumper news my potential seller has now got into their shed and located the bumpers. However they won't give me a date I can come and get them or give me a price. Because of this I recon they're gonna high ball me so I'll have the choice to decide if I want to stump up for them or just weld some 4cmm box section onto the front and back.
alf892 Posted May 29, 2015 Posted May 29, 2015 Better to solder it.........easier to file back to shape too cort16 1
cort16 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Posted May 29, 2015 I can't even solder 2 wires together . Can you buy heavier duty solder wire for this kind of application.
alf892 Posted May 29, 2015 Posted May 29, 2015 Yes......but get some Bakers fluid or paste to clean it nice. If you use a blow torch it won't really matter if you overheat it......just keep adding solder as it cools and it will take. Very useful to solder any multicore cable like cycle/choke cables before cutting them....easier to cut and stops fraying. You can get multicore wire suitable.....let me know if you want some
cort16 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Posted June 1, 2015 This thing made it outside under it's power for the first time today. There was a bracket missing that goes under one of the manifold bolts that holds the carb return spring. I made a new one out of a folder washer with a little hole drilled in the corner but on attempt 1 the bolt hole was too small so I had to get a bigger washer. All this back and forth between my two lockups meant I had the new washer and bolt (i took it with me this time) sitting in the cupholder of my Juke for about a week. I stole 1/2 and hour and fitted it and put on the rest of the air filter gubbins. It fired up with a bit of cranking and I got it outside and had a cruise around the car park outside my lockup. I drove nice! The throttle is returning now, which it wasn't doing so well with one spring attached. No obvious liquids pissing out it either although I've not run it up to temp yet. The choke is cable tied on so it'll start but that's not really going to work long term. Hopefully alf892's solder trick will work with the cable My washer bracket and cable tied choke.P6 by cort16, on Flickr v8 powa P6 by cort16, on Flickr wot still no bumpers. I'm still getting confusing messages about these bumpers I'm meant to be getting. How hard is it? Tell me how much you want for them and I'll drive to your house and give you money in exchange for them? P6 by cort16, on Flickr This wing looks crustier in the day light. It came with one replacement but I don't know what side it's for. Neither are that great. I guess these are welded on, which should be fun. P6 by cort16, on Flickr I'm looking forward to getting a proper drive in it now. I need to think about tyres too as they look like jacky stallones face. Bucketeer, Bren, catsinthewelder and 1 other 4
cort16 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Posted June 1, 2015 That's good I know they're welded on on the SD1
Skizzer Posted June 1, 2015 Posted June 1, 2015 This thing made it outside under it's power for the first time today. Yay! Nice work. This wing looks crustier in the day light. It came with one replacement but I don't know what side it's for. Huh? I is not understanding.
Tam Posted June 1, 2015 Posted June 1, 2015 All panels are bolt on and off about 19 I think including the roof. personally I like the no bumper look on the V8! Just a struggle to find a place for the number plate which doesn't ruin the look cort16 1
cort16 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Posted June 1, 2015 The wing is in the back seat and I've not taken it out the car to see what side it's for yet. anonymous user and Skizzer 2
Skizzer Posted June 1, 2015 Posted June 1, 2015 Ah, fair enough. I thought it wasn't like your good self to be foxed by that level of puzzle. cort16 1
cort16 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Posted June 1, 2015 Ah, fair enough. I thought it wasn't like your good self to be foxed by that level of puzzle. This is exactly the kind of thing that foxes me. Skizzer 1
cort16 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Posted June 1, 2015 All panels are bolt on and off about 19 I think including the roof. personally I like the no bumper look on the V8! Just a struggle to find a place for the number plate which doesn't ruin the look I recon the you could get away with the front but not the rear. The car is pretty stock so I think it'd look weird without a front bumper. I had actually started make up a split front bumper from an old mini bumper I found at the back of my lockup but soon realised I couldn't be arsed. Tam 1
cort16 Posted June 25, 2015 Author Posted June 25, 2015 It was my birthday recently so as a present to myself I finally insured this (£100) and taxed it (£0).Did I mention I got bumpers for this? It was getting to the point I was fairly sure it was one of my mates taking the piss as it dragged on so long but alas no I finally got the call to go and get them. Not quite as nice as expected but I got them for 125 front and rear. Possibly 100 too much but I was running out of options. The front's pretty decent but the rear's quite rough. Infact while knocking a kink out of it earlier a rust hole appeared in it! I got the front bumper on okay but even though I bought brackets for the rear I couldn't find bolts to go in the brackets. I tried every bolt I had and went up to a local tool place who've got every bolt size knows to man in imperial and metric (other than the one I need). I found this out by trying various sized bolts lying in the car park of the tool place in the pissing rain. It seems to be a sized between m10 and m12 but I've no idea what it is and it's difficult to guess.If I can't get anything soon I'm just going to weld the brackets onto the car with a captive m10 nut to mount the exhaust. P6 by cort16, on Flickr Anyway I managed to get it out for a decent drive and the shit rep is. The engine has plenty of power and good oil pressure.It drives nicer than it should given it was wet and it's got ancient tyres on it.the speedo doesn't work It's idling way too high so thumps into gearIt's got a serious gearbox oil leak.The doors and wing have got worse since it's been sitting but the replacement wing it came with is for the really bad wing. I'm chuffed to get it out for a drive and it didn't explode or break down even when it was hosing it down.Tam on here suggested a mini choke cable, which I got out off ebay for 11 quid. It looks about right so I'm hoping that'll do the job once I figure out how to get the remnants of the old one out. nacho man, Junkman, Tam and 21 others 24
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 I'm mental with envy right now. cort16 and alf892 2
Pillock Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 Definitely needs the bumper on the front, can't believe how mongy they look without it. Proper belm.Looking swish though. Good luck with the snags! Shep Shepherd and scruff 2
Bren Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 The un bumpered look goes well with flared arches. Go on, you know you want to... stillOrange and Asimo 2
Sudsprint Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 Great with the bumpers - all ready to park up outside Fawlty Towers.
LC Torana Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 It seems to be a sized between m10 and m12 but I've no idea what it is and it's difficult to guess. I would expect that would be 7/16" UNF. Very much a standard size in the P6 era. You would know that as "the wheelnut thread" - try a wheel nut on the bolt to confirm, but I'm 99% sure of this anyway. (Incidentally, I'll be pulling my back bumper off my own P6B and remounting it soon, to fix the damage from when I got loose-shunted last year (or was it the year before? So I will share your pain, vicariously like.) cort16 1
cort16 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Posted June 26, 2015 Thanks, I'll order some from ebay. There's a massive B&Q locally that have a good selection of nuts and bolts. I entered 7/16 into the search on their website and it came back with a block of wood.I can't find any place locally that stocks them.
LC Torana Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 That's really odd. (I assume B&Q is a big-box hardware store, something like our Bunnings). Over here, I buy UNF nuts & bolts from Bursons/Supercheap/Autobarn/Repco - so perhaps try a Halfords? I've just looked in the parts manual for the 2000 and that shows the bolts as 3/8" UNF - perhaps the V8 has a larger bumper? - I'll pop under the car in the morning just to make certain. cort16 1
cort16 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Posted June 26, 2015 That's really odd. (I assume B&Q is a big-box hardware store, something like our Bunnings). Over here, I buy UNF nuts & bolts from Bursons/Supercheap/Autobarn/Repco - so perhaps try a Halfords? I've just looked in the parts manual for the 2000 and that shows the bolts as 3/8" UNF - perhaps the V8 has a larger bumper? - I'll pop under the car in the morning just to make certain. That'd be great if you could.
LC Torana Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Well that was embarrassing. I was wrong. The four bolts (two each side) that attach the brackets to the body are 3/8" UNF The four bolts (two each side) that attach the brackets to the bumper are 5/16" UNF The picture below shows the appropriate hardware. cort16 1
cort16 Posted June 27, 2015 Author Posted June 27, 2015 Hold on does that big bolt on the chassis have a nut? I thought it was captive !
LC Torana Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 The big bolts are fed through from inside the boot - on the offside you will find this below the battery; you will need to peel away the vinyl boot lining from the sides a little to expose the holes. The sequence is:Bolt head / large flat washer / boot sidewall / suppport bracket / flat washer / spring washer / full nut. cort16 1
LC Torana Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Just re-fitted my own bumper, as discussed. Bit worried about the remaining weld at one end of the bumper. Hope it holds. But this has made me curious - what did the $%&*! that removed the bumpers from your car do about a licence plate lamp?
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