Dave's shonkers - collection begins

[Mrcento]

How does it ride?

These are semi on my radar too right now, like the look and general proportions of them etc, but i miss my Disco, and not sure these really fill that void. I don't mind the big old wobbly bus thing at all. It's part of the fun.

I keep hearing these just don't feel like a 4x4 at all, they feel more like an estate car on small stilts, seating position etc just feels pure car.

My gut feeling impression on these is they are probably very good with all the usual good Volvo traits of solidity, great seats, great heater etc but probably don't quite ride as squishilly as you'd hope because they try to mask the size and weight of it to be more 'AN Car' to drive in corners?

[Dave_Q]

Good question.

I haven't driven much in the way of "proper" 4x4s, never had a LR product, did have a Pajero once.

It's closer to a big car for me. To park it's maybe more like a 4x4, you can't really see where the end or sides of the bonnet are, and it's pretty big.

To drive, it does roll through corners a bit but you can tell they have tried very hard to make it car like. Underneath lots is shared with other P2 Volvos like the V/S70 so even though I've never had one I'd say it's most like a tall/heavy one of those to drive. The suspension is well cushioned on the road, I'd say plush is the word. Not the wallowy pogo stick experience I imagine a Disco 2 might be.

Seating wise definitely car, coming from a van which probably had a more 4x4 like seating position, upright and "on not in" this has more of a sofa setup where you definitely recline down into the seat as you get in.

Like I said I can really see why they were/are so popular with the general public as they do all of the car most people would ever need, in massive comfort, whilst still towing a caravan, fetching a fridge, managing fine in that one day of snow, parking in the field at your kids rugby club, getting up the unsurfaced track to Jeff's house, all scenarios that a Ford Focus would deal with fine in reality but people like to feel overspecced for the slight amounts of non-standard road driving they might do very occasionally.

[bangernomics]

Looks a proper thing that, I reckon those front seats are waiting to have some covers off some off another Volvo of that era that isn’t worn?

[bangernomics]

You’re about a month in, how goes it? I could do with something similar for towing duties as I send the van off to pastures new.

God there’s some properly cheap ones about at the moment.

[Dave_Q]

Yeah happy days all round really. Great to drive, so comfortable to sit in, banging stereo.

It went over to @NorthernMonkey to have the 2WD situation sorted. I got the repair sleeve from the Volvo dealer in Huddersfield (£130) and NM got the angle box off to see if a new one would be needed, and it was. Was able to find a good second hand xfer box in Manchester for £120 (wrongly listed as a rear diff).

It's almost impossible to picture but these were the splines on the input to the old transfer box, on the outside edge they are OK as that part wasn't engaged with the sleeve but about 2mm in they are worn smooth. The connecting sleeve splines were also completely worn off.

Apparently this is incredibly common on them and unless you went looking for it you probably wouldn't know unless you tried to drive it up a damp field as they are FWD by default and the rears only kick in when slippage is detected. The test is to stick your arm under when it's parked and try to turn the prop, if you can turn it by hand then this connecting sleeve and/or the transfer box are fucked.

I was glad I took it to NM for him to do on the ramp. As ever with these things there are plenty of people insisting they did it on their gravel drive in 2 hours with some bailer twine and a scissor jack from a Corsa but he had a fair old struggle to get the old box off and that's with a ramp. Access to the bolts holding the transfer box to the gearbox is almost non existent. After all that I am pretty sure the 4WD is working and there are no new lights or warnings from the Haldex etc which is another thing that can happen.

If you are planning to buy I would be tempted to say go cheap and use your eyes. On the owners groups there are plenty of people with tales of woe having spent strong money on a low miler then suffered borkage. If you buy cheap you have some headroom.

Things to definitely check are:

• 4x4 - can you turn the prop? Try some wheelspins in a gravel car park if possible
• ABS/brakes etc - warnings on the dash for this, could be ABS rings or worse. Sometimes the driveshafts seize in the hubs and there are tales of them being unable to be separated with a 20T puller
• Gearbox - on an auto evidence of fluid changes is good, if none do it soon. Needs JWS3309 unicorn jizz fluid which you can buy in bulk. Apparently if the autobox is on the way out it doesn't start playing up till its properly warm so you need to drive it for a good half hour or so to confirm
• DPF - none on mine but few complaints about them on the groups
• Tax - post 03/2006 are all £££££ VED

Overall I am pleased with the car. If you want one you just need to know they are not great on diesel on local runs (25mpg) but fine on the motorway (40ish mpg) and expect maintaining one to be more like a Disco 3 or RR sport than a 240. When I was ringing round asking about getting the transfer box sorted one place gave me a price for if everything went well with a warning that "it's an XC90, so things do go wrong"

I should also add a disclaimer that this post is no guarantee that NorthernMonkey would want to tackle this job again as it was definitely more involved than we expected.

[DeanH]

Can recommend Huddersfield Volvo Breakers in future if you're after parts. They're up by emley moor mast.

[Dave_Q]

2 minutes ago, DeanH said:

Can recommend Huddersfield Volvo Breakers in future if you're after parts. They're up by emley moor mast.

Thanks, yeah did ring them about a transfer box but they didn't have one suitable, as mine is the earlier 5 speed auto. The 6 speed auto is much more common  but has a different bolt pattern where it attaches to the box.

[DeanH]

There's also a fella called Johnson who has about 10 parts cars parked under the viaduct at Longroyd Bridge. 

Think he also owns the garage as you go down into Brighouse from Elland.

[Dave_Q]

2 minutes ago, DeanH said:

There's also a fella called Johnson who has about 10 parts cars parked under the viaduct at Longroyd Bridge. 

Think he also owns the garage as you go down into Brighouse from Elland.

Yeah I drive past that place (Brighouse) taking the kids to school and it always strikes me that it treads the fine line between "business" and "hoard" with the number of broken Volvos parked out the front.

https://www.google.com/maps/@53.6972572,-1.7857694,3a,75y,354.86h,76.36t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1swxjALqq6e64lpTX0CKlKKw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

[NorthernMonkey]

50 minutes ago, Dave_Q said:

I should also add a disclaimer that this post is no guarantee that NorthernMonkey would want to tackle this job again as it was definitely more involved than we expected.

Hmm. It’s a fiddly sod of a job and not one I’d even consider tackling on the floor but in reality, if you know where the hidden bolts are, it’s not too bad.

I agreed to do it after remembering doing it on my old one as part of an auto box removal.

What I failed to remember was I’d actually dropped the suspension and subframe on that one so access was far more straightforward…

[DeanH]

7 minutes ago, Dave_Q said:

Yeah I drive past that place (Brighouse) taking the kids to school and it always strikes me that it treads the fine line between "business" and "hoard" with the number of broken Volvos parked out the front.

https://www.google.com/maps/@53.6972572,-1.7857694,3a,75y,354.86h,76.36t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1swxjALqq6e64lpTX0CKlKKw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

At least that place treads the fine line, the other one doesn't!

251 Manchester Rd

https://maps.app.goo.gl/ifPMSfrDmpynoST89

[NorthernMonkey]

It must be a Volvo thing. There’s a specialist not far from me in the middle of a residential area who has anything between 10-15 various cars parked on the road outside his unit everyday without fail. My neighbours at my old garage used to moan like buggery if I parked anything within 50 yards of their ‘private’ space on the road.

[Dave_Q]

The one in Brighouse always has a few minty Volvos out for retail but tbh they could be the same ones since I moved here a couple of years ago. I can only find them listed on ebay, they have 11 cars on there but I'm sure there are more than that on the forecourt. Maybe they get a lot of local business?https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/volvospecialist/m.html

The corner of part-stripped shitters does seem to change occasionally, I guess they are used to repair customer or sales cars through their workshop.

I do remember the one on Manchester Road as we lived in Golcar before so used to drive past going to/from town.

[Dave_Q]

What's this, a shit old moped ACTUALLY OUTSIDE THE HOUSE? Oh yeah it is. 

 

This scooter has actually been about 95% finished for ages but I've pulled my finger out over the last couple of weeks and got it up to 98%.

I did actually ride it on the road once when the numberplate first came, but it had no lights so I really wanted to sort that so people have less excuse for driving into me.

I'm pleased to report that it's pretty fun to ride. The engine is kitted, a "115" Polini (actually 111.something cc) with an unknown expansion exhaust.

It can definitely "keep up with traffic" although really it's cruising speed is about 45mph. 4th gear is really long (a feature on these) so you have to hang on to 3rd as long as possible and change to 4th at 40+ to keep accelerating. I reckon it's probably geared for 60mph but only has the power to get to 50-55, and that would be on a very long straight road or a slight downhill.

I can't tell you how fast I achieved though as i MAXED OUT THE SPEEDO on a slight downhill. Probably about 51mph.

Anyway I am chuffed to get the little thing "finished" and will continue taking it out for a blezz now and again when the weather's OK. Nothing fell off or owt but I feel like you need to build up a bit of confidence in a steed, especially one bodged together from bits in your own shed. 

Next steps for it, a couple of badges, a plastic rear bumper trim thing, then decide what to do with the engine. 

It's leaking oil out the gearbox which is a case splitting job to fix, so while there seems sensible* to chuck a 125 crank in and a bigger kit. All that would be $$$ though so I'm putting it on hold for now.

Another thought that crossed my mind was to try a different exhaust and leave the cylinder as-is - according to Polini this kit should give about 9hp but my arse dyno says nowhere near.

The gap between 3rd and 4th is highlighted even more by the fact the engine seems to make all the power at high revs, so maybe a pipe like a Polini "snail" or similar box pipe will give a better spread of power. 

Chasing hp numbers is all well and good but maybe 45-50mph is OK when you're rolling on drum brakes.

I may also add a battery and some wiring for the electric starter - it's an elestart engine and actually also an elestart frame originally but in the interest of time/$ it's just wired up with a non-battery AC loom, I can just add the battery and relay etc later if I want to flex on kickstart peasants. It's at the bottom of the list though.

[Dave_Q]

Been shuffling sheds on the drive today, so though I would bring you a SATURDAY CROCKTAKE (stocktake)

Volvo: happy days, everything is fine except the handbrake doesn't work (TADTS), there is an adjuster buried in the centre console somewhere and if that doesn't work you can upfit manual adjusters in the handbrakes to fix it. Verdict: might have a crack at the cable, adjusters sound like a warm weather/MOT job, although I am a bit nervous about this as I do sometimes park on hills. 

Ignis: needs a wash fo'sho. All I've really done is drive it a bit every other week to make sure it's not all seized up. I am keen on taking it to a trackday or maybe one of them autotests at Blackburn services. The clutch is still a bit dodgy but I'm not sure if it actually needs a kit as it's fine under power, just sounds like its slipping a bit if you try to change gears too quick, might try a cable first as they are not too dear from ECP. Also need to try and do something about the wobbly rear engine mount and check the front suspension stuff as it all feels a bit too movey under there. 

TMax: Poor thing has been languishing since about October. MOT is out and deffo needs some stuff for the next one. I am thinking of trying to get the missing panels and smarten it up a bit but it's a pain in the arse as they hardly sold any here so I might have to buy from France, Spain or Italy.

Forks are leaking:

Front tyre is OK:

Rear not so much:

Front brakes now seem to be stuck on and the rear handbrake function has never worked.

I think I will focus on this next and get ready to MOT and tax on 1st March. Rear tyre, fork seals, see what I can do on the calipers, should just need elbow grease not $$. Will get some panels if I'm feeling especially flush.

Vespa and Chaly:

As you can see I've tidied up my workshop (lol) so both these can be inside. The Vespa is now done, I've even put some badges on it. Obviously its never really done, the engine has always leaked oil from the gearbox and it's a case splitting job to sort so I'm gonna have to face that now I think. Was thinking about putting a 125 crank in and a bigger cylinder but its a lot of money for another 10mph so I'm just gonna fix the leak.

Chaly looks a state but is nominally a runner, I've put in a Lifan 125 engine, I just need to sort out a proper inlet manifold for the carb and shorten the exhaust a bit and fab a bracket. I also bought a set of lights etc for it so with some time and not much money it could be on the road. I'm gonna leave this till after the TMax though as it's MOT exempt on 19th March...

Verdict: 3/5 MOTd and technically useable, actionable plans in place to achieve 5/5 by the time most normal people might want to ride a motorbike.

B+, not too depressing at all.

Bonus shot of my road, the Volvo is a strong look with number 2 and the house on the corner both rocking XC60s, there is also a chap down the road who has a tasty looking jap import V70.

[Dave_Q]

Addendum: Steering is a bit stiff on the Volvo when parking, think this is the pump as it improves if you give it a rev. Pump seems easily accessible so will have a look for one.

[Dave_Q]

Started stripping the Vespa engine today to fix this oil leak on the gearshift.

Got it out of the frame and removed all the stuff I can with hand tools, had to stop as it's a bit late for the impact wrench.

State of play:

I wasn't planning to change the barrel and piston but they are not looking great. 

[Fabergé Greggs]

I guess it’s an iron cylinder? How about trying a DIY hone and some new piston rings? Since it’s maybe knackered anyway you could get busy with the dremel: open up the exhaust port, maybe flow the cases bung it all together again, adjust squish/port timing etc and seeing if you can make it rip! 
 

Alternatively if it’s new cylinder time know that VMC are knocking out some great kits for these (cranks too I think), available from avotechnica or 10pollici in Italy. In the pre brexit days it was soo cheap to buy from them but it might still be worth it now. 

[Dave_Q]

20 hours ago, Fabergé Greggs said:

I guess it’s an iron cylinder? How about trying a DIY hone and some new piston rings? Since it’s maybe knackered anyway you could get busy with the dremel: open up the exhaust port, maybe flow the cases bung it all together again, adjust squish/port timing etc and seeing if you can make it rip! 
 

Alternatively if it’s new cylinder time know that VMC are knocking out some great kits for these (cranks too I think), available from avotechnica or 10pollici in Italy. In the pre brexit days it was soo cheap to buy from them but it might still be worth it now. 

Yeah you are about on the money there.

The barrel might hone but the piston I think is too far gone so I am just gonna go for it, I was close to ordering a crank and a kit anyway.

The plan is:

2.56 primary (on the way)

Polini snail pipe(hopefully collecting this weekend)

Mazzuchelli race crank

VMC pro-cup kit (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182395659886 same price as a DR130 if I don't get bummed on import and still a bargain for an alloy cylinder if I do)

The only thing still to figure out is a flywheel as my current one is small taper and the new crank would be big. Plus they recommend lightening, which I might be able to get done at work.

[Dave_Q]

I've now ordered that cylinder kit, ebay stated no additional fees so we'll see how that goes.

I've done a bit more reading and it's not a VMC, VMC do do a kit called pro-cup but it has a different head.  This one is apparentlt a clone of a Quattrini M1 125 cylinder which can't be a bad thing. The cylinder it's based on is still for sale at SIP for £260 so provided it actually turns up that seems a bargain.

Dunno how long all these parts are gonna take to turn up, can't do much without the cylinder as I need it to match the cases. May have to shelve it for now and get on with either the Chaly or TMax.

[Dave_Q]

Volvo blotted it's copy book last night, just refused to shift out of park outside child #3s school. Couldn't get it out so walked home.

Went back for it later and managed to get it going. There are 2 locks on the shifter, a cable operated thing off the ignition lock and a solenoid that works off the brake pedal. Disconnecting the solenoid got me out of park. I'll order a new brake switch and just leave the solenoid disconnected for now as it still seems to be failing to disengage intermittently.

Outside the school you have to park on a hill and as I was failing to get it out of park I did wonder if the fact it had no functioning handbrake could be a problem and the load of the hill on the parking pawl was stopping it disengaging. I don't think it was but it gave me a kick to sort out the handbrake.

The handbrake shoes are inside the rear discs.

I was expecting a war but whoever was here last put copperslip on all the bolts, what a ledge.

As such I was in quite quickly and at the cause of the problem.

From the factory there is no adjuster on the handbrake shoes, just a solid bar. This seems like a rare moment of shit design from Volvo, WTF are you meant to do as the shoes and drums wear?

This is common across other P2 Volvos I think. Luckily, you can just put adjusters in. These were £12.99 for a pair of genuine Volvo parts.

Now like any normal car you can pop a screwdriver through a wheelbolt hole and adjust it up to work nicely. I was expecting to have to tighten the cable as well but it all worked spot on once adjusted on the drums.

Nice easy job overall, recommend if you have a Volvo with a shit handbrake.

[Cavcraft]

Treble win there with owning the Volvo, the Vespa and the Chaly.  Nice to see the latter taking shape now, is the Lifan engine staying? Having looked round for a C70 engine, it seems any motor from that range (50/70/90) is daft money now and the chances of finding a complete running bike cheap must be nigh on impossible these days. Those Lifan engines seem  really good, my mate lobbed one (of some description) into his C90 and said it was a great motor.

[Dave_Q]

Cheers Billy.

Yep Lifan engine is staying, I think it was 280 quid or thereabouts from https://pitbikeparts.co.uk/ and I got 200 back for the full auto 50cc engine that was in it so not bad at all. 110s are even cheaper, about 210 depending if manual or semi auto. People are asking 100 or so for just c90 engine casings so it's a no brainer for me.

It's meant to be a "big valve" 125 whatever that means. Kept it semi auto as didn't fancy a clutch and it's never gonna be a hotrod anyway. I got the full package with the carb but the provided carb is shit, I had to hack up the choke lever to get it in the frame so I do have a genuine jap carb with remote choke kit here, just need to figure out what manifolds/adaptors will make it fit. If possible I'd really like to keep the carb in the frame and keep the plastic cover, most big engine conversions have the carb/filter sticking out the middle of the frame which I think looks a bit daft.

I've had it all running, it needs tidying up now, inlets like I said and the exhaust needs shortening. It's a fart cannon which was about 30 quid off eBay, bit disappointed I couldn't use the original but the downpipe got red hot after 30 seconds or so and it chucked out loads of smoke, just too narrow.

[Dave_Q]

Nearly have everything here to rebuild the Vespa engine, shit is getting serious now.

Check out the transfer ports on this badboy compared to the polini (which is already slightly larger than stock)

Portage from above:

Quite a lot of material needs taking off the case side to match. Need to go careful as these standard cases are quite thin in this area.

Also have a 24mm carb and a race crank with extended inlet timing.

I am starting to see that I need to take my time over this to get a good result. I need to do the case porting, then get the case machined to fit a bush to the gearshift. I may also try to get the flywheel lightened at the same time.

As such I may park this for a while and try to get the TMax MOTd so I can still have one bike on the road.

[Dave_Q]

Been chipping away at this porting job.

Started with these little sanding drum things but they went blunt very quickly, 

Carbide burrs were purchased and they are much better.

Taking my time and trial fitting the barrel to check and mark where to cut.

Getting closer, still more to take off in the RHS of the pic here to get it closer to the cylinder skirt

Finished matched case on clutch side:

 

New vs old:

Started on the flywheel side tonight:

Had to stop as dremel out of battery.

[Fabergé Greggs]

26 minutes ago, Dave_Q said:

Been chipping away at this porting job.

Started with these little sanding drum things but they went blunt very quickly, 

Carbide burrs were purchased and they are much better.

Taking my time and trial fitting the barrel to check and mark where to cut.

Getting closer, still more to take off in the RHS of the pic here to get it closer to the cylinder skirt

Finished matched case on clutch side:

 

New vs old:

Started on the flywheel side tonight:

Had to stop as dremel out of battery.

Great stuff!!! Looking forward to seeing this come together. I’ve got a set of large frame cases and I’ve been meaning for yonks to do a similar thing for my LML. I always wondered how patient I’d be able to be running it in though.. the excitement would surely be too great to tickle it for 500 miles or whatnot 

[Fabergé Greggs]

The difference in port size really is ridiculous ain’t it! I’m sure I’ve seen some porting jobs where they also smooth that step that sits next to the crank webs. Not sure if that’s only a large frame thing though so definitely don’t take my word for it 

[Dave_Q]

Thanks, I have scanned a few threads etc and most of the smallframe ones seem to leave that step in, maybe its a disc valve vs reed thing? I am keeping it disc.

This thread is using a similar cylinder and the transfers look similar so I am relatively confident I'm OK.

https://vespasmallframeforum.proboards.com/thread/23211/vmc-pro-cup-3

I am not too sure about the running in situation, I have heard conflicting info. As this is an alloy/Nikasil cylinder some sources say you don't really have to spend a long time running it in and more or less ragging it from the off works fine.

It will probably take me about 4 years to do 500 miles so I think this strategy is gonna have to be the one

[Fabergé Greggs]

The disc vs reed theory makes perfect sense actually- with disc I guess you need those cheeks to sit nice and tight against the crank webs whereas with reed that wouldn’t matter. 
 

And yeah I forgot you said it was an alloy cylinder- you’ll be ripping in no time!!! 

[Dave_Q]

Calling this done now, I roughed it all out with the carbide burrs then whizzed over it with the little sanding drum then finally a mini wire brush type deal that I had in my "my 1st grindyboi" dremel accessory kit.

No idea if thats textbook or not but seems to have worked for me. Not exactly polished but definitely pretty smooth. It looks a bit wonky but it's matched to the cylinder so should work fine.

Next I need to get the clutch side case machined to have a bush pressed in to stop the gearshift leaking, also going to get my new flywheel turned down a bit as it's meant to help things.