The Moog Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 After changing the front flexi hoses and rebuilding the brake caliper yesterday I tried bleeding the brakes. The osr wouldn't bleed at all. On closer inspection the pipe had been crushed at some point. Trying to undo it resulted in the pipe shearing off. Where it connects to the flexi hose is rusted to buggery, application of tools has resulted in that shearing off flush with fixing. So now I have replace the flexi hose as well but surprise surprise that is rusted into the next brake line. Are there any tips or tricks or am I better off finding a way to get the car to the garage and get them to fix and bleed the brakes?
Junkman Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 405 rear brakes are notoriously underchallenged, thus usually don't work at all due to seized calipers.Your best bet is to change the entire shebang, calipers and all.
Lacquer Peel Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 I don't think The Moog's has rear calipers, being a diesel. Measure up the burst brake hose and get a garage to make you up a replacement with the correct unions, get some brake pipe spanners as well, they're GR8.
alf892 Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 Free the flex from its bracket and then undo it from the steel. Hold the pipe nut on the steel with mole grips so that if the pipe is seized to the pipe nut you can free it after by gently tapping and working it free rather than just twisting the end off the steel..........patience wins. If the flex attaches to the bracket with a clip this is easy......if attached with a nut it is best to cut/grind from the opposite side of the bracket (ie the flex side) so you still have a nut to fit the new flex.
The Moog Posted January 3, 2015 Author Posted January 3, 2015 It is drums at back as LP said. I have got brake spanners but they aren't shifting it. The flex pushes through a bracket (its splined) then there is a another metal bracket then the nut. Will try to take off the shock and have another stab.
The Moog Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 Another hour wasted and I have run out of patience with it. Freezing cold in the garage which doesn't help. Will phone garage tomorrow morning to get them to fix it.
The Moog Posted January 16, 2015 Author Posted January 16, 2015 Next up is to find our where the water is going. It is using a fair bit every week. From full to light coming on will be about 600 miles. Its had new thermostat and sealed properly and new rad cap. Vents aren't getting particularly hot although temp does get up to 80 ish and stay that way. No visible drips or leaks after parking it. Is there a simple way to pressure test it?
vulgalour Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 Have you had any OMGHGF symptoms other than water consumption? I found when the head went on the Princess bad enough for water to come out the exhaust as quick as I could pour it in I wasn't getting overheating issues on the motorway unless I really pressed on in it and managed to drive it to the service station for several miles without woe, you may be getting the same with the Pug. When it happened in my Mk2 Polo I was getting through water but it didn't seem to care, loss of power on hills was the most noticeable issue with it. You can get pressure testers for not a lot, just plug it in and see what it reads. Pretty useful shite fettling tool to keep in your arsenal really. It does sound like it's only just gone if it has and it's gone water to compression if you're getting nothing in the oil or water you shouldn't be. See if you're getting bubbles and/or a smell of exhaust in the expansion bottle while the car is running, that should tell you if it's gone even a little bit.
mat_the_cat Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 Minor leaks can go unnoticed when hot if the coolant evaporates instantly, but I'd expect at least some sign of a leak of this size if it's external. Combustion to water leaks can be checked by listening for a hiss when undoing the cap shortly after a cold start - say 30 seconds. There should be no pressure build up if the coolant is still cold, so any pressure must be bad news
The Moog Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 Getting harder to start accompanied by masses of white smoke. Assumed it was veg but might be water. Power wise it still sort if seems the same. Thinking back an old xantia estate I had did exactly the same. Just nom nomed water like it was going out of fashion but no other symptoms. No obvious leaks. Cant really smell the expansion bottle as it is part of the radiator. Will try cold start test. But omghgf does sound likely. It had one not that long ago (probably few years thinking about it). But then the rad fans I dont think have been working for a while before I fitted a manual switch (wiring turned to dust) Are they hard on xud? Never actually done one yet.
Lacquer Peel Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 The way the engine is positioned on FWD PSA cars makes it awkward I believe, canted back towards the bulkhead. Fingers crossed it doesn't need major surgery.
The Moog Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 So quick check at start up, it is diesel smoke. I can tell due to the black mark on snow. From cold start there isn't any pressure but once thermostat is opened if I rev the car the coolant goes foamy. Had a smell of coolant and does smell a little exhausty but then not sure if I am paranoid. checking on fresh snow I cant see any leaks and left it idling for about 10 mins. Mot is due April so I think I am going to nurse it until then. Its done 20k in just under a year mainly on veg so owes me nothing. Will try some K Seal today to see if that helps Craig the Princess 1
Craig the Princess Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 I would run it into a garage with a leak tester. Some friends of ours used to have one and it was a really quick way of finding them. Can't believe it would cost much.
The Moog Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 Unsure about water pump will have a dig through the history file. Going to K seal it and see if that fixes it. The liquid steel stuff was.£39 versus £13 for k seal.
dollywobbler Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 I would run it into a garage with a leak tester. Some friends of ours used to have one and it was a really quick way of finding them. Can't believe it would cost much. Top advice. I was astonished how easy it was to find a leaky rad by just pumping some pressure into the cooling circuit. Foamy coolant doesn't sound good though.
The Moog Posted January 26, 2015 Author Posted January 26, 2015 It's sealed its fate this morning. Hopped in to drive to work, brake pedal drops to the floor. Could be simple, could be complicated but just don't have time and money to throw at it. Coupled with it still using water, leaking around the windscreen surround, noisy, drivers door not fitting just means that going to swap bits over and then Brown it.
dieselnutjob Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Getting harder to start accompanied by masses of white smoke. Assumed it was veg but might be water. Power wise it still sort if seems the same. I had a 305 diesel that did this. I came to the conclusion that 100,000 miles of enthusiastic driving causes the head bolts to stretch slightly. I fixed it by replacing the head bolts without actually removing the head. I just removed one at a time and torqued down the new one before moving to the next.
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