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cort16's Cortina Crap - Suspicious Sill


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Posted

The two doors can be picked up cheep in euro land but I canny get two of those on a trailer.

Posted

P100 uses Mk5 est doors on the series 1 (small B pillar vent) series 2 uses mk5 4dr saloon door (large B pillar vent).

 

with the 1.3 diff & 2.0 eng it should be very quick of the mark, if the brakes feel wooden servo or crap pads it shold stop fine ( to check servo press pedal several times with eng off then hold down while it starts pedal should drop an inchish if servo is working).

 

check the servo pipe & eng breather pipe aren't split & are secure as these can give poor starting/brake performance.

 

you need to get yourself on www.buysellcortina.co.uk

Posted

It seems really good so far for the money anyway. Check the quality of the earth clamp v the one on the power SMEG. The old one wouldn't clamp two bits of bog paper together.

 

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it's not much smaller than the old one. I built a little trolley thing for something else a while back I'll adapt for this once I can be bothered. I can't tell you how much better it is to use v the Sealey. Not only that but swan neck and general fitments are much better quality and more configurable.

It's actually given me a bit of mojo injection as I know now I'll not spend half my day knobbing around fixing the old welded. I actually cut out the seat belt mounting points and nearly finished making the replacement plate tonight but got too carried away and didn't take a picture.

 

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  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I managed to escape my family by climbing out the back window of the house while one of them was at the toilet and get a few hours on this tonight.

 

I cut the old seat belt mounts out and cleaned up the captive nut re-enforcing plate things. I drilled a couple of holes in a bit of 5mm bar I had lying around around welded the re-enforcing plates onto that bar then welded the face of Johnny 5 onto my car. I also added a new bit of bottom inner sill that had went frilly.

 

Cortina Sill

 

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Johnny 5

 

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I also discovered it wasn't just the old welder that was this issue as I was producing some prolific pigeon shit. It took me a while get my wire speed right but by the end it was more consistent when I could see what I was doing. It's certainly not coming off anway.

Does anyone have any tips for welding in low light? I've got a lamp but if it get's too close it triggers the auto dipping helmet and I can see even less.?

 

Once that was in I decided to have a look at the sill ends, notorious rot boxes of any old shite heap not just Fords.

 

 

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Sure enough it was seriously chewy so I cut it all out and made up a new bit. WELD cock in there for scale purposes.

I actually took my time and made this properly rather than just trying to bodge it on, which paid off.

 

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I was getting punch drunk by this point and it took me over 2 minutes to find my welding glove, which it turns out I had on but still decided to tack it in out of principle.

 

 

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Check out that massive mig blob to the right of it (that wasn't me this time). I might grind it down but I'm just happy to have metal to weld to.

Once I get this properly welded in I can start to fit the sill. W@@T.

 

Even though I am a bit ham fisted with the welder it is so much easier I can't tell you. Even not having to dick around with it jamming saves so much time.

In other news I posted a couple of pictures of it on facebook and someone came back saying it was originally beige. Not 100% convinced by that as I've not found 1 spot of beige but they recon the have pictures.

Posted

I have contemplated fitting a couple of leds in my welding helmet for low light, don't know whether it would work though

Posted

News just in. I have my new welder. Good penetration.

 

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I don't know how to weld, but at a guess you have made a cock of that job  :mrgreen:

Posted

I have contemplated fitting a couple of leds in my welding helmet for low light, don't know whether it would work though

 

I tried using one of those elasticated head light things walkers use and it worked quite well other than it kept slipping off my helmet (ooer mrs).  I did consider glueing it but then how could i change the batteries.?

It ideally needs the lamp on the outside and the batteries on the inside.

Posted

Good positionable magnetic base LED work light does the job. Stuck onto or close to the workpiece as opposed to the helmet.

Posted

This is what I did to mine...just a 200 lumen AA pocket torch, held on with a 15 mm pipe clip.

 

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Might have to work on the Ironman fancy dress outfit though...

  • 1 month later...
Posted

looky here we've got ourself an old fashioned weld fest.

 

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The sill I had is for a 4 door so I couldn't drill out the spot welds and re-attach it in one bit I needed to hack it up a bit to get it to do what I wanted to do. I also had to alter the flange along the bottom quite a lot to get it all lined up. Qfter a lot of cleaning metal, drilling holes and lots of trying not to stand on it, it wazzed on quite easily. I ended up having to put a new plate between the inner sill and the new bit of inner wheel arch I added as it seems there weren't actually connected in any way.

 

Buzzed it back with the flap disc

 

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It needs a small skim* of filler and it should be fine. 

I'd like to thank my new welder for making this possible. Once I was ready to start welding it was a breeze.

  • Like 4
Posted

I still recon i'll finish it 1 week before the mot runs out at the start of July

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Looks like I'm right on target for the MOT running out. I've spent so long fucking around with the volcanic geyser loosely disguised as a Rover P6 I've neglected this a bit when I'm so close*

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