SambaS Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Sodding hell. It doesn't work at all, just cuts out after revs. Sent from my Nokia Lumia 520 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hauserplenty Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Just another thought...I fix cars for a living so learned my basics long ago. However, thinking "If I change this, then this should happen" can lead you 'round in circles. Plus, well...most cars I fix are a bit closer than six thousand miles away. That said, it would seem that a compression test is now in order. If you can't rely on your mechanic, this would be a good chance for you to step up your game. In fact, it's all a part of keeping those shitey wheels rolling.You need to determine: 1. Is there fuel?2. Is there spark?3. Is there air? 1. Beg, borrow or steal a fuel pressure tester. Attach it to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail...etc. If the fuel pump is knackered, you'll have a pressure reading to confirm it. Look for kinked, bent or twisted fuel lines. 2. Make sure you've got a consistent primary voltage to the coil packs. Often this is overlooked. The coil(s) could be defective or nearly so. This could also be an electrical problem as well as a mechanical one. In such cases I like to rule out as many things as possible. This is where running a few simple tests can save you lots of time. Pulling off the plug wires (and grounding them, natch) one at a time is another old-school way of making your check engine light come on. But it will tell you if you've got a spark. And you can always clear the codes later. Unless you can find an oscilloscope (or a shop with one), in which case you can see which plugs are firing, when, and for how long. 3. Plug in a vacuum gauge; this will tell you what is happening to the air once it makes it to the cylinders. The compression test will also help with this.It will tell you whether or not the mixture you're getting will even burn in the first place. If you can get hold of a scantool which gives you live data, you'll have proof instead of having to guess. You can also use it to rule out loss of signal from crank/camshaft position sensors, without which there will be no signal to the PCM to control the spark, thus resulting in a failure to proceed. And now back to "throwing parts at it":Have you renewed the fuel filter? It could be clogged. Your exhaust could also be restricted. If you've bolted in two engines so far, it might be time to look at what has remained constant throughout. Such as the exhaust system, including those pesky oxygen sensors. If they're contaminated or defective, your fuel mixture will be consistently inconsistent. Make sure the connectors are good, too. Try to think in terms of what hasn't changed in all this time you've been struggling with it--there could be something you've overlooked. Keep an open mind to the possibility that there may be several problems at once, which is why you need to run the tests....good luck... SambaS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuboy Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 revert to working modified method... fixed SambaS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Got my brain ticking over this: If you have a dent in your tank, and fuel starvation, is the tank vent clear? I've seen a tank crush like a coke can if the breather is blocked- usually the pump will get really noisy before the car falters as its working so hard to overcome the vaccum. Worth a look- run with the fuel cap off to see if it makes any difference. When I fill up there is a big whoosh as the tank decompresses! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratdat Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 My Lada Niva suffered that problem, apparently from new. When it was assembled in the factory they crushed the tank vents under the cover panel. The tank had been collapsing under vacuum and the thing would conk out be start again after ten minutes or so. The top of the tank had actually fractured where it had been flexing! Barry Cade and SambaS 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Got my brain ticking over this: When I fill up there is a big whoosh as the tank decompresses! That's pretty normal. Every fuel injected Japanese car I've owned has done this. Well, ok, the Sirion did once the leaky fuel neck had been replaced... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillock Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 My Lada Niva suffered that problem, apparently from new. When it was assembled in the factory they crushed the tank vents under the cover panel. The tank had been collapsing under vacuum and the thing would conk out be start again after ten minutes or so. The top of the tank had actually fractured where it had been flexing! I read today that Mazda are recalling a load of 2012 models for this fault. They have an issue where there's a certain type of spider, loves the smell of petrol and will build webs in the vent pipes. As the negative pressure builds up as the tank empties, it flexes and there's a risk of fracturing, and a fire risk from leaks. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-26921734 The recall actually updates the software to warn the driver if the pressure starts to build up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Dad had this problem on an old Renault. He solved it by drilling a tiny hole in the filler neck so a vacuum couldn't build up. The risk of water contamination was deemed worthwhile but to be fair that never occured. I was more nervous about the tank exploding when he drilled the hole. Lunatic.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Assuming the oil leak that looks like its coming out between head and block is, where do i stand with garage that charged me 600 to fix it? There was no talk of warrenty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 you stand in a puddle of mayonnaise with no shoes or socks on unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Ok, that's about what i thought. Will go visit them and see what they say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Cade Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Assuming the oil leak that looks like its coming out between head and block is, where do i stand with garage that charged me 600 to fix it? There was no talk of warrentyTell him to do it again, but use a Payen gasket... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillock Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Tell him to give you your money back and find a new line of work. Wouldn't trust him with a fugging dodgem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 I've got a replacement engine that I can rebuild in my living room.. £50. It has HGF, actually there's a choice of 2. Hopefully mine will last until I have the new one ready, then I will rebuild the one that's currently in my car properly. I will have the block checked for straightness and resurfaced if needed, as well as the cylinder head, and both block and head will be pressure tested. I'm looking forward to getting stuck in. Some youtube K-series research: How engine blocks are made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXVLbzI3xTE How a cylinder head is resurfaced: How a cylinder head/ block is pressure tested: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 You're flipping mental Samba. Just buy an engine that you know works! If you start getting blocks skimmed you'll have liners sticking up too far so they'll need skimming too, is that even possible? And what tolerance will you need to skim them to, knowing that they have to be slightly proud of the block? As for getting K heads skimmed its bad news unless its the lightest skim in the history of the world. You can buy a whole running Rover 25 for a couple of hundred quid, or less if you're lucky. You'll have the chance to test out the engine as much as you like then weigh in the remains, meaning you get a decent engine for £100 or so - less than you will spend on machining never mind another set of gaskets and bolts. Honestly, you will put yourself in a secure unit with this car if you are not careful. Your sig says you have more than enough other stuff to be on with rather than building a K series from scratch. KruJoe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Cade Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Liner heights and head hardness are what's really crucial with the k. Have a read of some of the Elise stuff as they tend to push their engines a little harder and know what works. I still say it's one of the best engines ever made. Don't listen to the folklore or try and fix problems that aren't there and don't skim anything that doesn't need it! lincolndanny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Cade Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Lol. Too slow with this stupid ph. Two thumbs up Mr b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 It's all fun, plus I'd like to do an engine rebuild, I figure the K series would be the best place to start being as I'm using them up annually (he he anally). Went for a bimble over to Keswick yesterday Blencathra looked awesome so we had a walk/ scramble over Sharp Edge too then a drive round Derwent Water. Being completely stupid and not knowing where we were going we went the wrong way round and climbed down over Sharp Edge. Travelling up the 66 for the last few years I've exclamied dozens of times that I'm gonna drive that road there one day, well yesterday was the day! The road to Brough via Barras. Car did a fabulous impression of an aeroplane over this: Stopped at Brough Castle to let the brakes/ engine cool down Sat on 13th century toilet at this point: Went here too but they wanted actual money to get in and we fancied a KFC instead This was free to get in and much better than that castle: Blencathra: Not gonna lie I dont like heights! cms206, Jim Bergerac, catsinthewelder and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 Engine will be reduced to component parts so liners will be out. If I have to skim the block then the liner seals and liners will need refitting then back for them to be skimmed too, and we'll have to find out the tolerances for that??? maybe, dont know learning as going along. You're flipping mental Samba. Just buy an engine that you know works! If you start getting blocks skimmed you'll have liners sticking up too far so they'll need skimming too, is that even possible? And what tolerance will you need to skim them to, knowing that they have to be slightly proud of the block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratdat Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 I would have thought (knowing nowt whatsoever about K series) that is you shaved a lump off the top of the block, you would then machine the liner seats deeper into the block by the same amount, no? Sounds expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cort16 Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 I think the k-series could have been a great engine but you can't say it is a great engine because the amount of spluffed ones there. There are cars of the same age and price bracket that are still going but maintained just as badly.It's like saying I could have been a gold medal olympic javalin thrower if only I'd not drank all that beer and eat all those yorkie bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 More ponderings fulfilled on YouTube, this time the Brinell hardness test: laser wheels 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 From PPC article on the Rover K... as advised by ex-Rover employee: Liners must protrude 4-5 thousandths of an inch 0.004- 0.005 in from the top of the block but often don't. Early engines are better in this respect: Rover produced 2 heights of liner to make up for tolerances within the blocks, so that the liner would stand proud by the right amount. However in 1998 the bean counters at Rover decided that they'd save money by making only one type of liner. Despite protests that this would lead to head gasket failure the accountants got their way and surprise surprise a vast amount of engines left Longbridge's doors with lower liner heights. The gaskets didn't stand a chance." Here's an article on peening the cylinder head prior to skimming: http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Cylinder_Head_Fire_Ring_Peening Rusty_Rocket, Barry Cade, catsinthewelder and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 No scientific engine rebuilds yet. The new engine is still sat up the scrapyard somewhere waiting for me to collect. NEWSFLASH: Drove to Manchester and back (200 miles) and in the final mile it broke down as if it had ran out of petrol again. Didn't recover at low speeds like normal, didn't fire straight back up. I left it 5minutes and it fired up and a bit of a rev cleared it up and off we went! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillock Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Me and the boy want a project car.I'm thinking a K-series MG with HGF, worryingly this thread isn't putting me off. All seems to be fairly DIY-able with a bit of common sense and the ability to shut the garage door and have a few days off. saucedoctor, SambaS and Taff 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 I'd say go for it. I love my MG despite its problems. I will get to the bottom of it one of these years. Its not high priority at the minute though, as the insurance just lapsed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillock Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 I've run it past the boy and he quite fancies the idea!He's only 11 but he's got some savings which he gets access to this year, and to stop him just buying a flippin' xbox or something I suggested we go halves on a car. I don't doubt it'll be closer to 90% my outlay once I've had to buy a million head gaskets but it gets him thinking about using money sensibly, and gets him tinkering. Also, small hands are much better at doing fiddly stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Lucky kid, when I was 11 I wanted to take a pair of broken Metros from the scrappy and fix them into one good one but my friend who's dad owned the yard just wanted to drive stuff. I think I was 15 by the time me Dad and I were repairing the Jimp, we did the headgasket on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felly Magic Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Seriously, why waste any more on this worthless bottomless pit? Its a K series, which has to be the worst engine for HGF since the shitty OHV Skoda engine, for the money you plan on wasting on it, you could easily buy something decent that runs. Cut your losses and weigh the fucker in, it's already cost you more than a very decent, much newer car in repairs. The K series was never a good engine, it had potential, but in true BL style, bad management & shoddy build quality fucked it completely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SambaS Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 I'm quite enjoying owning it, tis why I shall 'waste' more money on it. I like a challenge. mat_the_cat and Pillock 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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