Renault life. Kangoo wiring

[ruffgeezer]

On 09/04/2026 at 22:38, 24vdiamond said:

If you do book cadwell let us know, I'm only down the road so I'd love to pop up and watch

As am I!

I didn't know we had many local folk.

[Brigsy]

6 hours ago, vaughant said:

I can't believe that this isn't your main job, the work is unreal 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼.

Great to see. 

Remote mapping, stuff of the future surely ❤️❤️❤️

Cheers mate. Absolutely buzzing that its running on new ecu, had this upgrade planned for years.

Id love to do modified stuff like this full time. Have considered setting up on my own a few times, but the fear of a dry spell putting me on my arse cash wise gives me the fear.

Remote mapping is awesome. Id get some on boost stuff done but it gets very sketchy doing long 4th/5th gear pulls on the street. Best leave that for the dyno😁

On another note, ive ordered an ecumaster can switch board and rotary switch for boost control on the Kangoo. Run the same on my clio trophy and it works well giving 8x levels of boost control. Should be a nice easy install splicing into can wiring.

[Brigsy]

On 07/05/2026 at 09:12, ruffgeezer said:

As am I!

I didn't know we had many local folk.

Might book for July. Clio sport festival, will see..

Did you have an ax gt years ago? Recognise the name. 

[Brigsy]

Washing yesterday. All needed doing badly.

[ruffgeezer]

1 minute ago, Brigsy said:

Might book for July. Clio sport festival, will see..

Did you have an ax gt years ago? Recognise the name. 

I had a lot of Axs years ago - I fitted a scorpion exhaust to Chris Jessop's little 1 litre Ax nearly 20 years ago!

I remembered the name but wasn't certain it was the same person.

[Brigsy]

12 hours ago, ruffgeezer said:

I had a lot of Axs years ago - I fitted a scorpion exhaust to Chris Jessop's little 1 litre Ax nearly 20 years ago!

I remembered the name but wasn't certain it was the same person.

Small world! Yep met Jessop when i had my1.5d ax 5 door back in the day! Was heavily into my r5gtts at the time. Shared a lockup with him for a bit back in the day. Crazy how fast time has gone

 

[Brigsy]

Kangoo updates.

Took it out Sunday morning for a test run, no issues and confirms stress fracture of the fuse was the cause for no start.

Mapping slot booked for June 13th, prep starts with Oil and filter change. Fresh purflux filter and millers 10/50 nt+.

Ive said it loads of times before but just buy one of these sealey oil fillers if you have a megane. Class bit of kit, no spillage.

Bought an Ecumaster can switchboard and rotary switch for boost control. The switchboard is a nice bit of kit, i run it on my trophy. Simply connect to canbus wiring in car and you can run extra analogue switches and inputs to the ecu via can. The rotary switch will allow for 8 different boost levels blending boost table 1 & 2 together. I think boost table 1 will be set at 12-14 psi and table 2 at whatever the clutch can handle. Might repurpose the cruise buttons on steering wheel for rolling anti lag and launch, just need a modus cruise squib. Ill get the switchboard fitted and configured this week ready.

Also been thinking about fuel system upgrades. I have a couple of spare megane 250 rs stainless fuel rails here and plan on getting one modified, removing the oem regulator and welding the holes/fitting an an6 inlet and return fitting. The reason for modding oem is to retain the injector holding clips, as a lot of aftermarket megane rails do not allow the clips to fit.

Top or side, both will work in theory. Ill think about it.

Thanks for reading!!

[DaveDorson]

This makes me want to do two things.

Keep the 225.

Buy some compomotive wheels.

[Brigsy]

15 hours ago, DaveDorson said:

This makes me want to do two things.

Keep the 225.

Buy some compomotive wheels.

If i win it in the roffle ill stick my spare set of comps on😁

[Brigsy]

Updates.

A few bits have arrived for fuel system upgrades on the Kangoo. Nuke 3ltr surge pot, walbro 420lph fuel pump and aem fuel pressure regulator.

The nuke tank looks proper sexy, really well made. Im hoping the internal pump fitting will keep the noise down. We will see.

Thanks for reading!!

[Tickman]

You make all this look so easy.

[JMotor]

Just binge read the thread.

Just one or two jobs done 😄. Top work.

I feel your pain about the heater matrix. I had to do one on my old 306 Rallye. Offt! not a job I'd wanna do again!

[DaveDorson]

14 hours ago, Brigsy said:

If i win it in the roffle ill stick my spare set of comps on😁

Do you want to sell those wheels?  🤣

[Brigsy]

On 14/05/2026 at 08:51, Tickman said:

You make all this look so easy.

Cheers mate. Usually plenty of head scratching going on in the background😁 i kind of winged it a bit on the ecumaster ecu working with the original dash. I had another solution if no good but involved more money. 

 

On 14/05/2026 at 10:15, JMotor said:

Just binge read the thread.

Just one or two jobs done 😄. Top work.

I feel your pain about the heater matrix. I had to do one on my old 306 Rallye. Offt! not a job I'd wanna do again!

Cheers mate. I was gutted having to do the matrix for 2nd time. Honestly thought replacing the first time would last the car out😄

On 14/05/2026 at 22:24, DaveDorson said:

Do you want to sell those wheels?  🤣

Rocking horse shit megane offset ones🤣 

[Brigsy]

Updates.

 

Kangoo got a decent run out over the weekend. No furthur issues with fuel pump after fuse replacement, so id say job jobbed.

Runs great up to 3.5k, makes all the right noises.

https://youtube.com/shorts/bI0PdXcDqRY?si=aIwNtmrGQh0QR3Cc

Anybody familiar with ecumaster black on clio3/megane will know the canbus side has a few quirks. Stuff like engine wont crank over for 10 mins until uch shuts down if you shut the engine off with rad fan running - canbus coding issues. Fuel gauge can also read erratic. Its all niggly stuff that can be tolerated but can be annoying.

Up to now this has none of those issues and it appears to work just fine. Fuel gauge seems to read OK, and no starting issues. I think its due to me running different firmware/kangoo uch and early megane upc. Its still early days but ive done a couple of hundred miles without issues so we will see. I have an idea how to work around any potential non crank issues if the situation appears.

Ive done a bit more testing on ecu settings. I have verified coolant temp is reading accurate and that radiator fan works well via canbus/oem setup on upc. I was concerned about potential idle/overheat but rad fan cuts in and out without issue. Ive set it to 95deg lowering to 90deg..this is a bit lower than usual meg 99-95deg but gives a buffer.

In other news ive been gathering parts (never fcuking ending!)

Modus/clio3 cruise squib bought so i can add cruise wiring to ecumaster. I need 2x buttons for cruise control and can repurpose the other buttons for spicey stuff like rolling antilag etc. The cruise switches as oem are configured mux setup with resistance different for each button instead of on off. Should be easy to wire up to an analogue input on ecumaster as a mux switch (he says). We will see.

Also ordered 4x egt sensors and ecumaster can to egt module. Seems daft not fitting as ive already had the bosses fitted to the exhaust manifold runners for each cylinder.

 

Its coming together, Slowly.

Thanks for reading!!

[Brigsy]

Updates.

Been using the other cars too, its not all kangoo work.

The megane 250 cup is road legal again after winter layup. Give it a good run out last week, steady driving to use the 8 month old half a tank of fuel up. Mega to drive, with the low mileage of 18k its like a new car.

My custom Rs monitor coding still working great in it.

Blue clio dci van still running well and ticked over 213000 the other day. Cruise control is a proper game changer, use it every time its on a dual carriageway.

 

The mk2 megane r26 is also used a couple of times a week. Nothing to report really, cruise control buttons have been a bit floppy / iffy on it for ages with the button that decreases speed increasing it when pressed. Increasing speed also increases speed, usually end up sending it🤣. I had a good spare set of cruise buttons in the stash from a low mile megane i broke years ago and found them the other day.

Fitted in 3 mins and work as they should.

Egt to can module ordered for the Kangoo and 4x egt sensors for egt per cylinder. Getting expensive this

 

Extra van on a roadtrip yesterday. You probably all think that all it does is trackdays and basically runs about empty etc which is not wrong in some respects, but over the 19 years ive had it, its done a fair bit of van stuff. Back in the day its done scrapyard runs on the bumpstops with the side exit exhaust scraping, picked up a 7 seater table and king size bed and mattress rammed in. Loads of appliances, car shit engines tools etc. Its earned its keep but doesnt get used loads these days.

Anyway i have a 1930s house and have been looking for a cast iron range fire/cooker combo to refit in my kitchen. More for ornamental purposes but could prob be fitted to be used with some tlc. Anyway sourced one local ish in Goole. Road trip.

Rotated tyres front to back as front getting quite low, and think i lost a balance weight on front wheels at Croft over easter as had a little bit of balance wobble at motorway speeds.

Give it a quick clean. Bilt hamber auto wheel doing the business.

Clean

Hot as fuck day but this is a cool customer so doesnt bother it, and just cruises along 72deg coolant temps. Get to the collection point for the fire and i then realised i totally underestimated how much the fireplace would weigh, so once loaded it was on its fucking arse.  Not my first rodeo so laughed and steady drive home, luckily all motorway so smooth ish dodging the potholes.

Ball hair gap between tyre and arch, actually looks bigger in pic but about 1mm. Tyres did not catch arches luckily as the profile on the nankang ar1 semi slick is wider than the toyo r888 i used to run. Arches well fettled years ago luckily. I dont use this often enough but ideally need lower et wheels like i used to run years ago for more clearance. 

 

Fireplace looks good anyway. This will be a nice restore project when i do my kitchen in the next year or so. The seller said it was in daily use until 18month ago, it was only removed as they thought the flue /chimney was knackered but turned out the fire bricks were shot. 

Sadly stored outside for a bit but should clean up ok, 100+ years old. Everything on it is heavy as fuck, The oven door is 15mm thick cast steel.

 

Stashed it to one side and ill look at that in the future.

Thanks for reading!!

[Brigsy]

Kangoo updates.

Ecumaster canbus expansion box and rotary boost control wired. These are great, just tap them into the canbus and add extra switches, analogue inputs to ecu etc. No fuss adding loom through bulkhead etc, and most of my outputs on ecu are already taken so needed expansion.

Closest canbus connection was to the dials so tapped into that with a twisted pair.

Dual wall heatshrink

Taped.

Power tapped into switched live on stereo.

Wires ran to area behind dash switches and connectors added so removable if dash ever needs to come off. Used superseal as got plently in stock.

Box stashed behind dash and 8 position rotary switch wired in for boost blend.

Whilst in the area i done some more planned bits. Ecumaster allows cruise control, i have cruise buttons but no wiring, and possibility of connecting to the ecu via the can expansion box. Ecumaster only requires brake switch, clutch switch, 2x buttons for cruise so the other buttons could be repurposed for push to pass, rolling antilag etc as necessary.

1st thing to do, add clio3 cruise squib which is the same as kangoo with extra wiring.

Kangoo has no cruise wiring so had to add all of it that was required. I have a 182 interior loom here which has the same connector plug as kangoo squib, so depinned the connector with a good length of twisted pair wiring and fitted to the kangoo wiring plug.

I done a bit of digging on how the 197 cruise control buttons were wired as only 2x wires for 4x non latching switches. The buttons both have 2 wires coming out of each joining together into a pair to to go through the squib. They are basically a mux switch setup, resistance is triggered when a button is pressed to indicate which one is in use.

Resistance example (clio2 i think but basically the same) Verified with test meter.

After a bit of thought i reckoned they could be wired up to an analogue input in mux config.

 

2.2k pullup resistor spliced in between 5v power and analogue. This is necessary for mux to prevent the input from "floating" when the switch is open or disconnected. 

 

I used a megane 2 cruise switch to turn the steering buttons on and off, finding which pins joined together with switch in cruise position, and used a chopped loom plug i had in stock. I could have bypassed the switch but prefer having the option to disable it fully. 

With all wiring done i dug out my ecumaster usb to can module which i used on the trophy years ago. I set it up for obd2 connection last time so can plug straight in and sniff the canbus/communicate to modules on the bus.

Looking on the software, can switchboard was active and working. I could see analogue 1 (Cruise buttons) were responding and voltage moving from 5v when pressed showing relevant voltages as expected and analogue 2 (Boost rotary) responded when turned.

All this left was the software on ecu to setup. At this point i realised it was not possible to correct/adjust the voltages on the mux switch setup as the ecu pre defines them, the voltages on the steering wheel were miles off so any button pressed would register all 3 switches pressed. Bugger.

Que a bit of head scratching. I looked at adding resistors to get me to the required voltages for ecu to be happy but was not straightforward as would require multiple resistors fitting from a few calcs. Stripped down the buttons to see if possible to change resistors but its a mini circuit board with a chip in each, so again not easy.

Done a bit of research and ecumaster has 3x virtual outputs that can be configured to activate on specified analogue voltages. I configured them to work individually specifying the required voltages that were logged on the switchboard.

Checking on the logs, they all work great and respond fine.

Activated cruise. This requires 2x buttons, one to start/stop and one to resume. Added some base settings and it actually works. I need to revisit the brake switch wiring as brake needs to go to an analogue as its been wired incorrectly on the pnp wiring (not by me) but for all purposes, its been tested and works.

Ill sort the brake switch out soon, simple change.

Also had geo done. The geo lift was on the piss years ago when i set it up last and camber on passenger side was reading incorrectly. I adjusted it on the day and it was obvious with a quick check it was a degree out on the passenger side. Always meant to change it but never got round to it, drove OK.

Done a bit of trigonometry and spirit level to set the camber at home yesterday as annoyingly the geo lift does not have a lifting beam to jack up. Scuttle off to access ast top mounts.Basic but accurate and both sides now match again. Works out -1.7deg.

Also refitted the ferodo ds1.11 brake pads up front as it will be needing good brakes soon..

Thanks for reading!!

[Popsicle]

I am not for one second going to say that I understand what you are doing, but it's great to see what you are doing and explaining it in a way I that I'm still too thick to understand.🤣

Lovely write ups and attention to detail, it's nice to see some vans being repurposed as track vehicles, keep it coming please.

[Brigsy]

7 hours ago, Popsicle said:

I am not for one second going to say that I understand what you are doing, but it's great to see what you are doing and explaining it in a way I that I'm still too thick to understand.🤣

Lovely write ups and attention to detail, it's nice to see some vans being repurposed as track vehicles, keep it coming please.

Cheers mate. Its good to see people are interested in a bit of tech. It is fairly difficult to do in some respects as no instructions and most people who do it gatekeep any info unless your paying.

Wiring took me a couple of hours to complete then several hours of head scratching and research to make the software work. I think i like the challenge of getting stuff like this working and ill work all night if i think i can get it to work😄

[Brigsy]

Another few bits from the weekend.

Kangoo had a couple of small rust spots developing above the windscreen due to previous stonechips. Overall its pretty rust free for a 15 year old van, but need to bare metal the front of the roof at some point to get ontop of them. In the meantime, slow down the rust and stop the rust staining.

Mixed up a bit of rust removing potion. Citric acid mixed in water, with wallpaper paste to give it a gel consistency. Its basically the poor mans version of Bilt Hamber deox gel.

Forbidden jelly mix.

Forgot to get before pics but here is some in the process. Gelled up, cling filmed and left for a day.

I cleaned off and it had cleaned a fair bit of the area back to shiney metal, but was obvious more rust under the scab so picked the loose paint off.

Another day of waiting and its pretty good without any mechanical removal.

Forgot to take any pics after this, but give the bare metal a few coats of Bilt Hamber hydrate 80, splash of galv primer over the top of the bare spot and touched up with glacier white touch up pen. Passes the 10 foot test decent enough so will do until i get it in the bodyshop at some point soon. 

Also took the mk3 meg rs for a run out. Ac works awesome in it and super cold so perfect for a run out in the hot weather. Went to local Makro to pick up some supplies, usual anti social parking miles away and gained another mk3 megane friend. It was a slightly newer mk3 rs 265 trophy model, got talking to the owner and was a nice thing, 50k on the clock. Mad seeing both together as not loads about.

Thanks for reading!!