Verysleepyboy Posted April 3 Author Posted April 3 21 hours ago, dome said: I thought these were L jet or even Mo(t)ronic but my memory is hazy. @Verysleepyboyi may have an aftermarket boss somewhere if you're interested. Let me know and I'll have a dig. Thank you - let me know what you have please
Verysleepyboy Posted April 3 Author Posted April 3 19 hours ago, barefoot said: I seem to remember that early and late 944 have different offset and they're L Jet. Here's mine, an '87 944S - the fragile one! Owned for more than 30 years with over 300k on the clock. All original, it is fucking not. Still looks fabulous - that's the 16V version? barefoot 1
Verysleepyboy Posted April 3 Author Posted April 3 17 hours ago, captain_cal said: I have a set of cookies sat around doing nothing, but I'm in deepest darkest Cornwall. Also I always thought all 944s were Motronic, and also mine was a fucker for idling when cold but I understand there's an idle control valve somewhere, which I never bothered to investigate as I lived at the bottom of a big hill and after a minute of climbing it was fine, The cookies came off of this, a Feb 85 car in Kalahari Beige: This is my current victim, looks like there is a secret society of transaxle perverts crawling out of the woodwork around here. Your beige beauty looks very simialr to mine - but with the original "targa" roof, as opposed to the (in period) Halfords tin opener sunshine roof. Send me some details of the Cookie cutters please (sizes/ condition/ offfset etc.), can always arrange shipping or a road trip if necessary
Verysleepyboy Posted April 3 Author Posted April 3 Well - one week in and already my first FTP in the Porsche 😥 Took it out for a local drive yesterday afternoon to see a mate, and on the way back along the A5, I heard a loudish backfire and then nothing as the engine decided to cut out on me. Luckily I had just enough momentum to roll off onto a side road away from the main traffic. Under the bonnet, nothing immediately obvious, but it wasn't for restarting, not even a cough. I had almost no tools on me so diagnostics wasn't really an option so it was out with the recovery phone number and a Truckofshame ride back to my local mechanic (who had rightfully gone home by this point) Initial thoughts are either fuel pump relay (weak spot on 924/944) or an ignition system failure - but won't be able to do much to check until the weekend. Not a great start to the ownership experience........ Dick Cheeseburger, adw1977, Peter C and 10 others 1 12
Dick Cheeseburger Posted April 3 Posted April 3 10 minutes ago, Verysleepyboy said: Well - one week in and already my first FTP in the Porsche 😥 Took it out for a local drive yesterday afternoon to see a mate, and on the way back along the A5, I heard a loudish backfire and then nothing as the engine decided to cut out on me. Luckily I had just enough momentum to roll off onto a side road away from the main traffic. Under the bonnet, nothing immediately obvious, but it wasn't for restarting, not even a cough. I had almost no tools on me so diagnostics wasn't really an option so it was out with the recovery phone number and a Truckofshame ride back to my local mechanic (who had rightfully gone home by this point) Initial thoughts are either fuel pump relay (weak spot on 924/944) or an ignition system failure - but won't be able to do much to check until the weekend. Not a great start to the ownership experience........ It still looks fit on the transporter though, so almost a positive! Rustybullethole and N Dentressangle 2
Verysleepyboy Posted April 3 Author Posted April 3 19 minutes ago, Dick Cheeseburger said: It still looks fit on the transporter though, so almost a positive! Indeed it does - need to take all the (albeit small) wins at the moment!
petermcpete Posted April 3 Posted April 3 Always worth having a spare fuel pump relay in the glovebox for these, or even a paperclip to jump the pins will do. Last FTP I had in mine last year was the fuel pump fuse had a crap connection to the holder - annoyingly only realised once I'd been recovered home, as it looked fine visually!
Verysleepyboy Posted April 3 Author Posted April 3 It's all a learning curve, but yes a spare (tested good ) relay is on the list of must haves in the glove box!! petermcpete 1
Verysleepyboy Posted April 4 Author Posted April 4 Interestingly, the car started up fine yesterday morning (lumpy cold idle), warmed up to a nice smooth run but then after about 10 minutes went really lumpy and cut out. No time to do much diagnostics yet but new fuel pump relay now ordered as first thought - or at least to have a spare. N Dentressangle 1
N Dentressangle Posted April 4 Posted April 4 Try running it until it cuts out. Then squirt some brake cleaner in the intake and see if it starts again. If it does, you know it's a fuel problem. lesapandre 1
Verysleepyboy Posted April 4 Author Posted April 4 24 minutes ago, N Dentressangle said: Try running it until it cuts out. Then squirt some brake cleaner in the intake and see if it starts again. If it does, you know it's a fuel problem. That's broadly the plan, just need to get some time on it!!! Should then give me a clue if its ignition or fuel N Dentressangle 1
Zelandeth Posted April 4 Posted April 4 5 hours ago, Verysleepyboy said: Interestingly, the car started up fine yesterday morning (lumpy cold idle), warmed up to a nice smooth run but then after about 10 minutes went really lumpy and cut out. No time to do much diagnostics yet but new fuel pump relay now ordered as first thought - or at least to have a spare. Has the rotor arm recently been changed? I had very similar behaviour on a Saab 900 where it turned out that Intermotor had the wrong rotor listed. It worked fine for about a week, then one day I spluttered to a halt at the side of the road - it behaving all the world like fuel starvation. It would run fine for ~10 mins from cold after that before starting to cut out under load, and eventually stalling altogether. I was chasing this for WEEKS before I found the old rotor floating around the boot and just tried it to see if anything changed...and it just worked. I still had a spark when it died - it just wasn't strong enough. So it managed fine when it was cold and the mixture was rich - but as soon as is started to lean off as the engine warmed up, it wasn't then strong enough to ignite the mixture. Not saying that's the problem here, but wouldn't surprise me if a lot of the ignition system are the same or similar, so if you've got a spare floating around it might be worth trying! Datsuncog, Wibble and lesapandre 2 1
dome Posted April 11 Posted April 11 On 03/04/2025 at 12:26, Verysleepyboy said: Thank you - let me know what you have please Hope the car is going well for you? I found the boss with a wheel attached. To be honest the boss itself is cheap, you can get them for £13 on eBay! If you want it with this wheel attached you can have them both for £40 posted. Drop me a pm if you're interested
petermcpete Posted April 11 Posted April 11 7 minutes ago, dome said: Hope the car is going well for you? I found the boss with a wheel attached. To be honest the boss itself is cheap, you can get them for £13 on eBay! If you want it with this wheel attached you can have them both for £40 posted. Drop me a pm if you're int If @Verysleepyboy doesn't want it, I would happily take it off your hands for my 924S 👍 dome 1
dome Posted April 11 Posted April 11 26 minutes ago, petermcpete said: If @Verysleepyboy doesn't want it, I would happily take it off your hands for my 924S 👍 I'll keep that in mind if he doesn't but check it fits, from memory this is MK1 Golf small spline. I know it'll fit early 944s and my 2.0 924, not sure about your S though?
Verysleepyboy Posted 11 hours ago Author Posted 11 hours ago On 04/04/2025 at 14:04, Zelandeth said: Has the rotor arm recently been changed? I had very similar behaviour on a Saab 900 where it turned out that Intermotor had the wrong rotor listed. It worked fine for about a week, then one day I spluttered to a halt at the side of the road - it behaving all the world like fuel starvation. It would run fine for ~10 mins from cold after that before starting to cut out under load, and eventually stalling altogether. I was chasing this for WEEKS before I found the old rotor floating around the boot and just tried it to see if anything changed...and it just worked. I still had a spark when it died - it just wasn't strong enough. So it managed fine when it was cold and the mixture was rich - but as soon as is started to lean off as the engine warmed up, it wasn't then strong enough to ignite the mixture. Not saying that's the problem here, but wouldn't surprise me if a lot of the ignition system are the same or similar, so if you've got a spare floating around it might be worth trying! Not sure - a full service of ignition parts will be on the cards though. No tell tale "spares" of this kind in the boot though. Where do you recommend currently for decent parts - don't fancy playing the GSF / ECP parts roulette?
Verysleepyboy Posted 11 hours ago Author Posted 11 hours ago On 11/04/2025 at 09:53, dome said: Hope the car is going well for you? I found the boss with a wheel attached. To be honest the boss itself is cheap, you can get them for £13 on eBay! If you want it with this wheel attached you can have them both for £40 posted. Drop me a pm if you're interested Yes please!!! DM me your details and I'll get some £££ sent over dome 1
Verysleepyboy Posted 10 hours ago Author Posted 10 hours ago Small update on the FTP!! After being recovered to my friendly local garage we had a loom and diagnosed no fuel pump operating hence no go. First port of call was to replaced the DME relay - so a genuine OEM one was ordered and fitted (previous one looked almost brand new OEM) but made no difference. Next step was to check the crank potions sensors (two of them) and found the connector broken on one of them and barely hanging on - they were the next parts to be ordered. Had to get (decent) pattern parts rather than genuine this time. Would the old sensor come out without a fight? Of course not!!! Seized in solid!! That then necessitated removing the mounting bracket - tucked right at the back of the engine bay against the bulk head with little chance of getting an Allen key socket in. Lots of swearing and cut hands later - the bracket is off - but the front sensor is still solid in place. Destruction, drift and hammers required to remove and its finally free (the back sensor came out easily btw). Cleaned the hole and managed to finally refit it all (with a little copper slip on the new sensor body). Would it then start??? No, of course not, fuel pump still not kicking into life. (New sensors and refitted bracket down the back there - pic doesn't do it justice just how awkward it is!) So back to the fuse / relay box - being an early car, this is unhelpfully tucked up into the passenger footwell as opposed to easily accessed in the engine bay. Here is where I discover that the fuse for the fuel pump has been bypassed some how (still need to investigate further) and the wiring the the pump relay base has been butchered badly including a corroded electricians terminal block inline. This got removed and swapped out temporarily for a Wago connector and then I spotted the small brown wire spade connector (ground wire on the ignition key circuit) hanging out the back of the relay base - refitted this and tried again - SUCCESS!!!!!! (see the lovely bodges to the DME relay wiring and the small brown earth at the back that appears to be the source of the FTP) Finally got the car home now - need to sort of the wiring bodges and there is a massive stutter on acceleration, think it is now the AFM that needs attention but it is definitely a step further forward!!!! AFM module that is next on the hit list to resolve the stuttering on acceleration - any tips on how to set these up would be gratefully appreciated!! dome, Zelandeth and IronStar 3
Zelandeth Posted 10 hours ago Posted 10 hours ago 33 minutes ago, Verysleepyboy said: Not sure - a full service of ignition parts will be on the cards though. No tell tale "spares" of this kind in the boot though. Where do you recommend currently for decent parts - don't fancy playing the GSF / ECP parts roulette? Look up the Bosch part numbers involved and get those, even if you have to resort to finding NOS in eBay was my take on it eventually. My logic was that if Intermotor were using the wrong template, who knows who else is. We also found the same problem on six Cylinder's Trevi - there was a huge difference between the correct Bosch part and all of the supposedly compatible alternatives we tried (about a millimetre of length and half the value of the series resistor as I recall). Which resulted in this nonsense when we were trying to find one! Two on the left are correct (old/new), the rest all were different brands which supposedly would work but didn't. One of them from memory didn't even fit on the distributor shaft.
Stinkwheel Posted 10 hours ago Posted 10 hours ago The dodgy crank sensor wiring is a big red flag to me. I've had issues with similar older bosch injection/ignition systems where the crank sensors would be fine when cold but as the engine and in turn, the sensor warms up they throw weird resistance readings back and the car wont run. Always fine when cold, give up or get worse when heated slowly. So i think you have fitted 2 new ones, so hopefully avoid the issue. But maybe if the mechanic still has the old ones then test with meter on resistance and apply some heat, see what happens to the readings I always think its nice to know which item was really causing the problem so you can not have to worry about it anymore, especially when more than one thing has been done to try and solv the issue
Verysleepyboy Posted 10 hours ago Author Posted 10 hours ago 6 minutes ago, Stinkwheel said: The dodgy crank sensor wiring is a big red flag to me. I've had issues with similar older bosch injection/ignition systems where the crank sensors would be fine when cold but as the engine and in turn, the sensor warms up they throw weird resistance readings back and the car wont run. Always fine when cold, give up or get worse when heated slowly. So i think you have fitted 2 new ones, so hopefully avoid the issue. But maybe if the mechanic still has the old ones then test with meter on resistance and apply some heat, see what happens to the readings The front one with the broken plug I had to butcher to get out, however I still have the original back sensor - I'll make up a test rig for it when I get a chance. Stinkwheel 1
AltheJazzman Posted 7 hours ago Posted 7 hours ago Ahh 944 starting issues! Been there. I never did work out which intermittent fault I had with my 944 before I sold it. Sometimes it wouldn't start and I would do a combination of: unplug and replug both the crank sensors, unplug and replug the AFM connector, bypass the fuel pump relay, clean the fuel pump fuse and connectors with sandpaper, replace the fuel pump fuse, and unplug and replug the ECU connector (DME in Porsche parlance) under the steering column. I even tried bleeding out a supposed air lock in the fuel rail a couple of times which always resulted in a lovely shower of super unleaded over the headlight. If you do need to make an FPR bypass jumper, you need a 3-way jumper cable, not a simple 2-way bridge like the Jetronic cars. This is indeed Motronic. How to make an FPR bypass jumper: https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-05.htm The best resource for DIY 944 repairs is Clarks Garage. The website design alone is a nostalgia trip. https://www.clarks-garage.com/
inconsistant Posted 55 minutes ago Posted 55 minutes ago Try Frazerpart for spares and service stuff https://frazerpart.com If you can’t find what you need on the site give Max a call, I’ve always found him really helpful. Porsche dealerships or ‘OPCs’ are, surprisingly, a really good source for parts too, and usually more reasonable than a lot of the resellers and eBay listings.
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